DOLORES HIDALGO, GUANAJUATO, MEXICO: DID YOU REMEMBER TO PUSH F11?
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We found this film crew ensconced in the town square, trying to grab whatever they could of the failing afternoon light.
The Mexican sun flowers Bougainvilleas in this immaculately maintained garden 6200 feet above sea level.
We're looking at ground zero of the war of independence from Spain. From these steps on September 16, 1810, Miguel Hidalgo issued the Grito de Dolores -- the call to insurrection for the indigenous population. Or maybe not: what Hidalgo really said is unknown although the mythmakers have created several versions and the Mexican president reenacts the event annually after Hidalgo's church bell (now moved to Mexico city) is rung. But enough of history -- did you notice the Churrigueresque facade? If you've forgotten what that's about, cut and paste this link from our San Miguel de Allende photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/schmitt.dick/SanMiguelDeAllende/photo#5143254550316555858
Whether we know exactly what was said, we know the revolution began here and ended 10 years and 10 days later. Napoleon had invaded Spain, making it difficult for the Iberians to quell this insurrection with the French in their backyard. Like Moses, Hidalgo (excommunicated within weeks of the Grito) failed to reach (or in this case, create) the promised land and was shot (and decapitated) within a year of his Grito de Dolores. His head stayed on display until the revolution successfully ended nine years later.
As expected, this place is called the Church of the Grito; it was built 1712-1778 as the Parroquia (Parish Church) de Neustra Senora de Dolores. This tower's bell summoned the natives to the announcement of rebellion on the church's steps. It has since been moved to the National Palace in Mexico City. Although built over 65 years, this church is consistent in its baroque Churrigueresque detail including the steeples...
We found a late afternoon Mass going on inside and so curtailed our visit.
