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Various parts of the dulcimer: strings, hammers, tuning wrench, bass and treble bridge etc..
Another view of parts of the dulcimer: strings, hammers, tuning wrench, bass and treble bridge etc.. notice the tuning template on the lower right.
The wood components of the dulcimer. The cedar sound board is at the top.
Another view of the wood components
I made the workbench top out of a piece of particle board. Re-enforced it with a frame of tuba3 and then secured it to a "workmate" using the workmate clamping mechanism. Then I covered the top with cardboard to prevent maring of the dulcimer.
Another view of workbench with frame parts.
A loose fit of the frame to see how it lays on the bench and how the joints line up.
Another view of the loose fit.
Loose fit.
The pilot holes have been drilled, the glue has been applied to the joints and the screws fastened.
A commercial for Titebond II wood glue.
The frame is sitting on the back to check for squareness. The fit is good.
Once the glue sets for the frame joints, the back will be glued to the frame.
This is the back. the back comes with two different faces. One face is cedar, it is of poor quality but has lots of personality. I'm trying to decide which face to use?
One more look at the cedar face. Notice the knots.
This is the other face of the back. The wood veneer is some type of light wood. I think it's birch. It's of 1st grade quality, but lacks personality. (squeaky clean).
Another look at the "clean" face of the back. I've decided to go with the cedar face to be the exposed side of the back.
A dry run to see how it clamps up.
Another look at the "clamp" test. I think I will need acouple of more clamps when it is glued.
Glue applied, clamps tightened. A total of 17 clamps used.
Another view of the glued and clamped back.
Over head view
Another over head shot. Glue will take 24hrs to set. Next step is gluing the internal bracing to the inside of the back. The bracing pieces are partially visable on the left.
Internal bracing dry run
Another view of internal bracing dry run
Internal bracing
Internal bracing glued and clamped
Another view
Rear View
Added extra hold-down in the middle of the bracing
Right Hand View
Front view
Bracing Complete.
These are the rosettes, and their placement on the soundboard. The soundboard has not been glued to the frame yet. This will be done after the holes are cut and the rosettes are inlaid.
The hole saw and rosettes.
Overhead view of rosette.
A look at the 2 3/8 inch hole the hole saw cutin this prototype.
This is a prototype of the hole, with the rosette placed. The fit is good!!
Another view of the rosette prototype.
I masket the area, where the soundhole will be cut, with blue painters tape. This I hope will prevent splintering of the hole.
The holes have been cut!
Underside view of the Rosettes being glued. Just a couple of spots first. Then I will glue the full circumference.
Side view.
Other side view.
Underside of soundboard with rosettes glued in place.
Topside of soundboard rosettes glued.
Left view.
Right view. Next step is to sand the soundboard, then glue it to the frame.
Every musical instrument needs an internal label.
Label through the rosette.
Internal Label
Soundboard glued and clamped.
Sounboard glued and clamped.
Soundboard glued. Ready to sand and shape.
Another view.
This is the drill guide I'll use for the many, many peg holes.
I first rough cut the edges with a block plane. Now onto the belt sander.
This is my clamping jig for the belt sanding.
Nice and smooth!
The belt sander is working out well.
Now how does that look?
Setup for the first finish coat. Decided to go with Formby's Tung Oil Rub Finish. High Gloss!
First coat applied. It's hard to see with all the glare, but the finish, even with first coat looks like a mirror. Planning on at least four coats. Sanding with 220, 320, and 400 grit sand paper between coats.
Soundboard view first coat applied. The richness of the cedar top really comes out with the finish.
Rear view first coat applied.
Third coat. Used 220 gritt sandpaper between first, second, and third coats.
Fifth coat. Used 330 grit between third and forth coat, and 400 gritt between forth and fifth coats.
Fifth coat. Will use #0000 steel wool for final finish and then Butchers Wax to complete the finish phase.
Ready to drill holes for the Tunning Pegs and Hitch Pins. I've decided to drill all the holes by hand, using the drill shown. Before I drilled I used a counter sink bit (shown on brace) to ream the hole marks out. I made the counter sink just slightly bigger then the hole size to prevent any splitting/splintering of the cedar.
Left side of dulcimer with the hole marks counter sunk.
Nice and plumb!!!
All holes drilled in left side of dulcimer. Ready to screw in HItch Pins and Mallet in the Tunning Pegs.
Another of view of dulcimer prepared for installation of Hitch Pins and Tunning Prgs.
Sweet!!!
Hitch Pins and Tunning Pegs installed on Left side of dulcimer. Check out the reflection of the hardware in the finish. That's what I'm talking about!!
All Hitch Pins and Tunning Pegs installed. Total process of drilling and installing took 4 hours. Dulcimer ready to be strung.
Stringing in process. Treble string courses (bridge on left) complete. Beginning bass courses.
