Main electrical box and CDI control computer. You can route the controller wires (and a switched power wire, you'll need it later) through the back of this box's opening and they come out near the driver's foot well.
Pull the black bag of "stuffing" out of the hole and this is where the main electrical box is connected though the firewall. Route wires through this opening.
The black bag is the "stuffing" that fills the hole in the firewall. Wiring bundle is for the controller.
Controller wiring fished through firewall opening.
Closer shot of where wiring passes though. Note that every controller wire now has its function printed along its entire length - making installs much easier.
"Stock" engine bay before modifications. Note the little black connector (and its mount) above the EGR/Coolant heat exchanger that is about to be moved.
EGR/Coolant heat exchanger. Called the "EGR Cooler" by MBZ. The electrical connector has been moved and its mount removed from the bolt hole that is cast into the cooler body (the knub on the center-left of the EGR cooler body)
Test fitting the POP Diesel 3-valve manifold. Fits rather well, except for that annoying bolt casting that sticks up. We'll soon fix that.
Test placement of the 16-plate heat exchanger. This is the only place it would solidly fit without modifications or a mounting bracket of some sort. Black coating is also courtesy of POP Diesel.
Shot of the back of the ignition module. This guy is difficult to get to..
Accessory wire connects to pink/yellow. Switched ignition power ("On") connects to pink/red.
Wire to tap into for illumination. This wire (can't remember the color, yellow/white?) only turns on when the headlight switch is in the ON position - i.e. it won't turn on when you turn on fog lights or if you leave the lights in "Auto" mode and they turn on from Auto. I'm sure there is a better wire to use but I haven't bothered to find it yet.
Video overview of engine bay, note how the valve manifold just barely fits in the engine profile (so it won't bang the hood).
I used a pneumatic die grinder and aluminum burr bit to grind off the knub. Best tool ever..
You'll need to grind the "bump" in the middle of the trunk pan off since it stick up right in the middle of where the tank needs to go. Again, the die grinder is an awesome tool for this. Note that the silly plastic casting doesn't have any material when you grind it flat, so you'll have to fill this in with some gasket maker (Permatex Ultra Black is what I used).
Fuel tank shot compared to spare tire.. Luther's Welding did an excellent job of constructing it to the exact dimensions I specified. Kudos to them for this as if it has been slightly too big in any dimension it would not have fit at all.
Finished/vacuumed.
Cut out center with a hole saw (for the fuel pickup) and ground the edges smooth with the die grinder. Note the Shop Vac tube going in to suck out as many shavings as possible
I used the die grinder to open up four individual holes for each 3/8" line. Two are fuel, two are coolant. The individual openings prevent the hoses from slipping back and forth and make them much easier to seal up with some Permatex Ultra Black.
Fuel/coolant lines entering the tank area from the bottom of the car.
Hose bundle snaking under the car..
Fuel/coolant lines have been run and insulated with fiberglass/aluminum reflective material. You can get this stuff from McMaster.com. Note how nicely the hoses disappear under the plastic underbody panels with very little modification. Note my routing zip ties the lines to the existing brake and diesel lines since they have an imprint into the underside of the car already and make routing easier. Only very minor mods to the underbody plastic panels are necessary.
Shot from under the trunk pan. The hoses do rest on the exhaust pipe, but they're insulated and it shouldn't be an issue. Diesel exhaust pipes don't get nearly as hot as gas exhaust pipes.. It's also tied with a bit of safety wire as well as that zip tie (since that will probably melt eventually).
*NOTE - OLD SETUP - Temp sensor is now after the common rail* Fuel/pressure sensor combo tee. 5/16" on one end for the stock hose and 3/8" on the other end for the new hose. 3/8" tee for the fuel temp sensor (included with controller kits) and 1/4" tee and adapter bushings for the fuel pressure sensor. Stock fuel pressure on this vehicle is in the 3.8-4.2 bar range. (~60psi)
Mounting back plate for the fuel filter. I fabbed this up.
FASS pump is mounted to the same aluminum bracket that holds the navigation DVD drive. It's the only place that you can mount it given the jacked up mounting bracket that comes from FASS.
How the fuel pump sticks out (minimally) after trimming of the side panel.
Shot of mounted fuel filter.
Fuel tank with hot fox and isspro fuel sender installed. Note the Isspro had to be hacked off with a hacksaw (literally) of the extra plastic and terminals to get it about 3/4" shorter. This was necessary for clearance reasons and doesn't affect the sensor's operation at all. The extra line not going to the hotfox is the fuel return line.
Fuel hose routing. Fuel goes from tank to filter, then to fuel pump, then to engine. Coolant hits the filter first, then goes to the tank.
Fuel filter courtesy of POP Diesel (thanks guys!). It works quite well.
Eeck - here's the coolant cross fitting. On the left is 3/4" tee to interface with the stock coolant hose size, center close is the temp sensor, right is the 1/2" to go to the FPHE and center far is the 3/8" line to go down to the bottom of the car and back to the fuel filter/tank. Note the plastic Kynar tee in the stock line to the right. This is the hot coolant supply.
Where to tap into the coolant line for the coolant return. Use a tee here.
Once again, 3/4" barbs and a 1/2" NPT tee are what you need for the stock line. Kynar 90" hose barb is 1/2" NPT and 1/2" hose barb.
Controller wiring is being hooked up.
Valves are hooked up both fluid-wise and electrically. Coolant hoses are also installed/hooked up completely, although not insulated yet.
Fuel hose routing..
Covers modified and put back on. Everything looks pretty stock except for those three cylinders protruding.
Final valves and hose routing with labels. Note the coolant temp sensor is now in the return from the common rail. This is far more reflective of actual injection temperatures than the temp going into the engine.
Two hydraforce valves stacked on top of each other. They are mounted to an aluminum plate, but not to the manifold. Due to the tightness of the hoses and zip ties, there is almost zero vibration of the valve set.
Close-up of the new fuel temp sensor location. It is zip tied to the common rail for heat transfer and stability purposes.
Terrible lighting/glare for this picture, but as the controller shows, the engine and VO are hot and running in auto mode.
Close-up of controller running in auto mode, again just some bad lighting off the controller face.
