More refined version.
Nevermind the saddle, I broke another SLR and this was all I had left for testing, and thus forth hastily installed. The trick here is to get the motor high enough to miss your heels, and low enough to miss your thigh, and then get the motor chain, petal chain, and main drive chain to miss all the supporting tubes and stays.
Motor and pedals freewheel independent of each other. Motor is geared to match a cadence of 80rpm at 5000rpm and 110rpm cadence at 7000rpm.
Motor drive chain lives in pretty close confines.
And so do the pedal driive chain and main drive chain.
Motor is braced off the seatpost.
More complete picture. The new "wagon".
Left to right:drive shaft, spacer, motor drive cog(to be brazed to drive shaft), clutch bearing, main drive cog brazed to freewheel carrier/clutch bearing housing, freewheel, keyed washer, end bolt.
Motor to main drive assembly. Clutch bearing allows pedaling without turning the motor drive chain.
Pedal to main drive freewheel added. Allows motor to drive main drive cog without turning the pedals.
Just enough clearance.
Sella An-Atomica saddle.
Finished motor mount and front frame reinforcement/chain tensioner block.
Motor mount weighs about 3.2lbs, making the whole kit . motor, gearbox, jackshaft, chain, and front reinforcement about ~35lbs. Kinda heavy, but I'd rather overbuild than underbuild the first go around.
Had to move the motor freewheel up to the gearbox. The original design with the clutch bearing on the jackshaft didn't work, as soon as I put a decent force on the pedals it would bind the clutch bearing and start turning the motor chain and gear reduction. Real draggy. There is now only one freewheel on the jackshaft, the ss freewheel for the pedals.
Had to use this funky outboard pawl 15t imperial freewheel since I designed my gearing on the 15t direct drive gear that came with the gearbox. I may end up changing this to a standard 16t if this design proves unreliable. This would require a larger front chainring to match cadence to motor rpm and a larger hub cog to slow the chain speed back down.
Moving the motor mount to tension the front two chains proved to be a pain, and I was in need of better chain guidance. The motor mount is now ridgid and there are guide/tensioners on the non tension side of all three chains.
Front frame reinforcement/chain tensioner/guide. Still a little more clearancing to get that gude pulley in the right spot, but it works.
New wheelset. Nuvinci CVT rear hub, Shimano dyno front hub, both laced to Alex DX32 rims.
Custom 16t cog for Nuvinci hub.
Centerstand, Nuvinci hub, and custom tensioner added.
Way, way cheaper to buid this than buy it.
The custom tensioner doubles as the torsion bar for the hub.
Better look at that tensioner/torque arm.
Dyno hub for the upcoming dyno light build
I added a little rounded plate foot on my centerstand to keep it from sinking in and tipping the bike, and keeping it from scratching fragile surfaces(ie:wood floors, concrete finishes, ect.) I might add a coating of Plastidip to finish it off.
Folds up nice too. Kinda worried about those feet catching on something, but so far thats not been a problem.
Custom faceplate/light mount.
Innertube v-rack seals
Unique shift indicator
Double thick, filled with Slime. No flats please.
Kinda heavy, but worth it if they keep from having to fix a flat this winter.
Dustbin fairing. This might be the next step.
Version 2 in waiting.
Tour de Ride to Boone Race pics
Freegan Payload pics
This bridge is 5miles from work. The four biggest climbs on my commute are on either side, two gravel, one dirt, one pave. The pave climb is also the highest traffic part of my commute and it's only 1/2 mile.
Wind blown plains 15miles(halfway) through my commute.
The jackshaft driven drivetrain was eating bearings and chains, so I went back to the drawing board here.
Finished drivetrain version 2. Two freewheels on the drive side of the hub.
