From asiarooms.com: The Path of Philosophy (or Philosopher's Walk) is the name given to a 2 km-long path through the north-eastern side of Kyoto. It is said that philosophy professors, Ikutaro Nishida and Hajime Kawakami, who used to teach in Kyoto University, walked along this path Tetsugaku-no-Michi or the Path of Philosophy while contemplating silently. - - - The path which meanders around the aqueduct runs from Ginkakuji Temple to the Wakaoji-Shrine is lined by cherry trees, forming a picturesque canopy of cherry blossoms in the spring and colorful leaves in the fall. On the way there are quaint and rather charming shops along the walk. Though you are unlikely to find the path as secluded as the professors did, the Philosopher’s Path is still a remarkably refreshing and peaceful walk It is said that the walk continues to the Nanzenji Temple but this southern section is not too tourist friendly as it does not have enough signposts. The route passes a lot of temples...
The first stop at the north end of the Philosopher's Walk is Ginkaku Temple, or Ginkaku-ji. It's best to start here and take the walk gently downhill.
“Hedge at Ginkakuji - The harmony of about 50 meter long hedges made of stones, bamboos and camellias lining both sides of the approach from the main entrance to the courtyard is magnificent.” - from the brochure, and quite true.
Ginkaku-Ji - I think this is a zen island in the waves.
Ginkaku-ji has the finest landscaping. Here the artificially contoured hill and its well maintained moss, offset by the creek, the trees, the camellias... Very zen.
Otoyo Shrine -first built 887 but "it suffered many fires" like almost all the ancient wood buildings we saw here and in China.
The roof of the main building at Otoyo Shrine is much like many other temples and shrines, but they're all a bit different.
One of many stone animals at Otoyo Shrine. This one's a lion, I think.
One of many stone animals at Otoyo Shrine.
The mouse is a prime animal at Otoyo Shrine.
These plaques are for submitting prayers to the mouse gods or whatever the mice represent. I think you can write a personal prayer on the back.
Still on the Philosopher's walk, Kumano Nyakuo Shrine. This fisherman god has been given a case of beer - for his boatmen?
A lion at Kumano Nyakuo Shrine
Eikando Temple is next to the last in the Philosopher's Walk - The original building was built after 1082, burned down, and was rebuilt in 1497
"the combination of Higashiyama culture and Zen culture can bee seen here" - from the brochure
A gate to Eikando Temple
The innermost building in Eikando temple, with a magnificent chandelier and a warning sign below.
The exit from Eikando Temple. The real world is out beyond the gate.
Nanzen Temple is the last and I think largest of the temples on the Philosopher's walk. Built as the emperor's villa in 1264, given by the emperor as a Zen temple in 1291. Burned three times, last rebuilt before 1600.
One of the pictures on the sliding doors by Kano artists in the 1500s. An Important Cultural Asset in NanzenJi
Thick walls at Nanzen-Ji
In contrast, the textured Zen garden
First of nine temples in various parts of Kyoto, the Golden Pavillion. Originally a Shogun's villa in 1397, later converted to a Zen temple, "set fire and burned down in 1950." Rebuilt in 1955, gold leafed in 1987
The Golden Pavilion in its glory and serenity
This was the first time we saw tours of schoolchildren, each group with its guide and flag. Unfortunately, there are so many tours (and maybe remembering the fire of 1950) that nobody gets within 100 meters of the Golden Pavillion.
Uniformed girls, photographers, an (unusual) visitor in wheelchair, with the Golden Pavilion just visible across the lake.
A gardener dressed to be part of the show.
Higashi Hongan-Ji is the mother temple of Shin Buddhism. Its Founders Hall, one of the largest wooden constructions in the world, is covered by a semi-permanent steel structure to protect it from the weather while it is renovated. This is the front gate, a few blocks north of the ugly Kyoto Tower. The train station and our hotel are just across the street behind the tower.
A detail of the front gate, Higashi Honganji
In the garden at Highash HonganJi
Prayers, with swastika or the written prayer visible. Higashi HonganJi
A shrine, with larger prayer sticks.
Closeup of the shrine figure. Higashi HanganJi
Kitano Shrine is also where you go to pray for good test results. It's not on the tours, so it's quiet.
Praying at the main temple of Kintano Tenmangu shrine. Note his "geta" shoes.
Also praying. She's overdressed. He isn't.
They were touching this bull in Kitano Shrine
Main gate to Kintano Tenmangu shrine, with vendor selling paco yaki, octopus pancakes made in a mold. They were fresh and good.
Main temple, again.
Man temple of Kitano shrine
All the lamps on the altar
Lamps in Kintano shrine
Photographer, Kintano Tenmangu temple
Geta are raised wooden clogs that are worn with the informal yukata. - Japanzone.com
Bowl, Kintano shrine
Decoration, Kintano shrine building
Decorative and protective
Sticks with written prayers that remind me of paint paddles. - Kintano Tenmangu shrine
An administrative buiding, Kintano Shrine
Kintano lamp
As we left Kintano Tenmangu shrine, I growled at this bull, knowing he was tied up too tight to growl back.
In the afternoon we climbed up the hill of souvenir and soft ice cream stores to Kiyomizu Temple. Just as crowded as the Golden Temple, but less regimented - no lockstep march through. So we mostly watched the school children and "stylish" girls - including two obvious hookers. We're relaxed and enjoy it.
Entrance to Kiyomizu Temple
A side shrine with balloons at Kiyomizu Temple
Decorated Kiyomizu Temple
A fountain of lustral water at Kiyomizu Temple - with water pipe
Distant pagoda, Kiyomizu Temple
School boys using communal cups to sample the lustral water, while the uniformed girls pass
Sharp bamboo
Girl with yellow shoes. Kiyomizu Temple
Short dresses with fur stole or lace bra top, heels, brown hair
An ancient beggar outside Kiyomizu Temple
Nijo Castle was originally built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu - brochure
Entrance gate and door, Nijo Castle
We and the touring schoolchildren are regimented like cattle to the slaughter. No place to sit for more than an hour, signs that don't agree with the brochure nor the guidebook, many "not" signs NOT to open the screens because the sunlight will fade the ancient painted screens, NOT to smoke, NOT to photograph, NOT to lean on the railing, NOT to ... There are good murals, one fine Zen garden with lake, two bad new gardens, a strong inner castle wall, and finally a required detour past the vendors, where there were the only seats. I didn't sit. Have I ever hated a place so?
Two sided carving, part of a room divider in Nijo Castle. Worth clicking on the magnifying glass at the upper right of the picture.
He's the designated photographer for his friends. Seven of them came with cameras.
A stylish girl on a warm day, but it's the season for winter boots and leggings
Defensive wall and moat, Nijo Castle
Defensive walls, Nijo Castle
Sanjusangendo Hall is the longest wooden building in Japan. It's all wood and 742 years old, so there is no smoking and NO photographs. Inside there are a thousand thousand-armed goddesses of mercy, but there's a bigger one at Toji Temple, next.
Outside at Sanjusangendo Hall, across the street from the Kyoto National Museum
At Toji Temple I do get a photo of the Denon, the multi-armed Buddha. This one is 6 meters (20 feet) high, bigger than the central one at Sanjusagendo.
Toji Temple is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism.
Toji Temple has many fine statues; the best are inside the huge Kondo hall and the lecture hall. I don't know why the statues have red hats and bibs.
There are turtles holding up stele in Toji Temple and in most other temples and shrines.
seed pod
The pagoda at Toji Temple, 55 m (180 ft) high, the tallest wooden structure in Japan. Unfortunately it was closed for the month.
Yasaka Shrine, in a park across the street from the busy, seedy Gion section of Kyoto
Yasaka Shrine: the northern hall
A variety of roofs in Yasaka shrine
The West Gate of Yasaka Shrine faces Gion. It's at least 450 years old.
Built in 1897 to preserve Japan's early art and temple and shrine treasures, this building in French style of the time is now the Special Exhibition Hall of the Kyoto National Museum
Detail of the Special Exhibition Building, the Oeil de boeuf window
Buddhas in the modern main building of the Kyoto National Museum
Non-thinking schoolboys and teacher
The immense gate spans the street between two museums
Kyoto Railway Station. Taken from the Granvia hotel, in the east side. Across on the west side is JR Isatan department store, with restaurants above and below. The rail lines run parallel to this view, on the left: first the Japan Rail lines, then the Shinkasen very high speed train, finally an independent commuter line.
An upper floor over the hotel lobby, where there's an enclosed garden
A sculpture on the 7th floor of the Kyoto Railway Station
Washing a roof of the station
Morning meeting of the staff at the JR Isatan department store in the west wing of the JR (Japan Rail) station in Kyoto.
The guard at the morning meeting watches to be sure we don't crash through the glass door of the JR Isatan.
On the south side of the Kyoto railway station, a new shopping center just opened. This restaurant was given these beautiful orchids, but we went to the eel restaurant all the way at the end. (We were staying at the Gravia hotel, also in the station, but on the other side of three railways and the other end of the station.)
The menu for the eel restaurant (I don't have its name). We had the highlighted menu and grilled eel many more ways: plain cold, plain warm with skin, in an omlette. And on the side, pickles, rice, miso, orange pieces, beer, tempura and meusli.
Here's your instructions for another eel dish
And finally, here's the grilled eel with very thinly sliced cucumber in vinegar sauce, part of the unagi zanmai meal. Delicious!
It's Friday noon and the teachers have taken the kids from the local school to remove trash from the stream. They're reasonably orderly, reasonably effictive. The stream runs between the FuruKawacho shopping arcade and the Gion area where the Geisha can be found.
Gion Hall, in Gion (I think) - a modern building with touches of historic.
I can't quite read the blackboard to see what is served
