Flying over Kazakhstan on the way to Delhi
First crush on the Indian way of putting things in English began with airport construction.
Was warned of chaos. Found the Delhi airport a study in efficiency and organization.
Served up the cliche of cows in the road with my first step on Delhi soil (pavement).
The grounds of the Baha'i Lotus Temple.
Baha'i Temple grounds
Looking out over surrounding neighborhoods from the Baha'i Temple.
Baha'i Temple. Services are 15 minute meditation sessions, and the accoustics are such that a celebrant can complete their chant, close the book in front of them, return to down the aisle to their seat and settle in, and chant is still bouncing back and forth in the air at full volume. Incredible.
Baha'i Temple. We could learn some lessons from these hopeful people. "Baha'is believe there is one God, that all humanity is one family and that there is a fundamental unity underlying religion. They recognize that the coming of Baha'u'llah signifies that this is the age in which world peace will be established. As anticipated in the sacred scriptures of the past, humanity will achieve its spiritual and social maturity and live as one family in a just, global society." Dig.
Baha'i Temple
The Tomb of Isa Khan
The entrance to the Tomb of Isa Khan in Delhi.
The Tomb of Isa Khan. Delhi
Consenting to a photo of self to prove that Yes, I actually was in India, despite my people-less photos. The Tomb of Isa Khan, Delhi, Day 1.
Tile detail at The Tomb of Isa Khan, Delhi
Inside the Tomb of Isa Khan, Delhi
Crawling into the window-wells on the roof to look down into the Tomb of Isa Khan.
Lattice work at the Tomb.
Delhi-Dog
The entrance way to Humayan's Tomb, Delhi
Humayan's Tomb, Delhi. The Taj Mahal was inspired by this gorgeous structure.
Humayan's Tomb
The mosque at Humayan's Tomb
Inside Humayan's Tomb
Lattice-work at Humayan's Tomb
Lattice-work at Humayan's Tomb, plus girls playing with their new digital cameras, testing out the modes.
India Gate -- Delhi war memorial
Government buildings, Delhi
Delhi-ites
Explored the Deer Park in Hauz Khas with new friends on first day. The skies opened and we fought our way through overgrown brush to seek refuge from the torrential rains in these ruins, which turned out to be an unknown tomb. It was pitch black inside, and almost dark outside, but a mode on the new camera eerily captured what we could not see with our eyes.
An Indian dance recital at the Habitat Centre
Indian dance recital at the Habitat Centre
First auto-rickshaw ride...
Traveling by auto rickshaw
The object of my desire, perennially parked outside my flat.
Hauz Khas apartments at dusk, where our flats were located
Fruit seller in the rather posh Hauz Khas market
Walking through Hauz Khas market
Mary's Manicure Competition... who painted the better hand?
The handful of camera-happy girls at Mother Teresa's. Sister Claris gave permission for them to take photos in the garden.
The girls
Gimme the camera! Let me see me!
Allyson with some of the girls in the gorgeous garden at Mother Teresa's
Mary and Anima
Once they find the camera, it never stops. I don't even know who took these.
Okay, okay girls. Enough photos!
Pushpa and Anima in the garden
Pushpa, Anima and Mary in the garden
Everything I do seems funny to my girls.
On the road to Mother Teresa's
Rickshaws are my favorite
Fabric shopping at Central Market. I bought the light green paisley'd silk up high on the right there and designed a mandarin inspired dress with my tailor friend. Can't wait to wear it this summer.
Chipmunks in the park
Rice and flour for sale in Hauz Khas market
The wise-beyond her years Anna
Sweet and so fun Tiffany
The Red Fort, Delhi
Red Fort, Delhi
School groups visiting the Red Fort in Delhi. Soon after, I was surrounded by children wanting their picture taken with the westerner, and being photographed by and with principals, teachers and students.
Diwan-i-Am -- the hall for public audiences at Red Fort
Shaun trying to hide from the camera at the Red Fort
This crazy tree at the red fort. Beyond is the Diwan-i-Khas -- the hall for private audiences.
The anguish tree
Diwan-i-Khas -- the hall for private audiences at the Red Fort, Delhi
The ornate ceilings of the Diwan-i-Khas
Lattice screening at the Red Fort, Delhi
A guard at the Red Fort, Delhi
Lovely decay
Lattice screen
Jerome & Shaun at the Red Fort
Parrots carving out a little spot in the ceiling of the Diwan-i-Khas at the Red Fort, Delhi
The ceiling of the Diwan-i-Khas, Red Fort, Delhi
The view into the mosque through the lattice at the Red Fort, Delhi
Lovely decay -- an old rusty desk in the trash at the Red Fort
Visiting the Red Fort
Shaun & Lauren at the Red Fort
One of many random group photos requested at the Red Fort, Delhi
Woman at the Red Fort, Delhi
The Diwan-i-Am -- the hall for public audiences at the Red Fort, Delhi
Pillar detail at the Red Fort, Delhi
Mr. Ram Gopal shares the story of his famous friendship with a champion chess player
Rickshaws are so fun
More fun in rickshaws
An old movie poster shop in Hauz Khas village
Shaun, Lauren & Adrienne making weekend plans
Lauren & Tiffany in Chandi Chowk market
Chandi Chowk market
Chandi Chowk
Sidewalk shave, Chandi Chowk
Street-side dhaba, Chandi Chowk
Sweet boy running alongside our bicycle rickshaw in Chandi Chowk asking to have his photo taken
Boys running alongside the rickshaw
If you look past the ruin, you can really see what this city used to look like before the pollution and the decay in some of the buildings in Chandi Chowk
Old monkey in Chandi Chowk
Cool old doors in the alleys of Chandi Chowk
Another great blue door in Chandi Chowk
Street-side food in Chandi Chowk
Saw these Delhi boys taking my picture, so I figured I'd do the same
The internet "cafe" closest to our flat in Hauz Khas
Leda & I with Sister at Mother Teresa's
Sister and some of the girls at Mother Teresa's
The baby goats at Mother Teresa's
Allyson & I with some of the girls at Mother Teresa's
After a game of rings at Mother Teresa's
Fantastic sign in Hauz Khas market
Prevan & Bruno keeping watch over the tandoori
Tandoori on the patio
Tandoori chicken, vegetables and paneer
Bruno's new pillow covers
My first round of mehndi
The small mosque in by our flat
Hauz Khas apartments, where are flats were in Delhi
Anna experimenting with the head-scarf
Tiffany & I practicing head-scarves before going to Nizamuddin
Give me 'haughty, fabulous and you know it'
Trying on the burqa
Trying the burqa
The burqa
Getting used to the burqa
National Geographic burqa shot
It's hot in the burqa
Love this "please honk to let me know you're there" sign on the back of so many vehicles
30 minutes into our 10.5 hour drive to Amritsar, and Allyson's asleep on my shoulder
Fun Tiger Woods graphic
On the road to Amritsar
The best rest-stop food on the planet -- five of us, over-ordering and over-tipping and the bill was under $10
Mmm... malai kofta, lo mein, pickled onions & limes...
The bizarre MV Village rest-stop, where chic leather couches and giant Disney lawn ornaments go coexist happily, and the fantastic food is almost free
Allyson outside our room at the [decidedly, not] Grand Hotel
The room was no party, but the stairwell to get to it was lovely, with its worn walls, its yet-another-blue door and the British-Raj-relic cane chair
Quickly becoming obsessed with blue doors...
And there it is. The Golden Temple. As breathtaking as all the stories.
Walking round the sacred waters at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
The Golden Temple, Amritsar
A Sikh guard at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Jasvindar, Shaun, Jerome the Irish milkmaid, and Allyson at the Golden Temple, Amristar
Jasvinder, Shaun, me, and Jerome the Irish milkmaid at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Partaking in the holy waters of the Golden Temple, Amritsar
The woman's bathhouse at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Pilgrims at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Pilgrim at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Sikh guard at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Architectural details at the Golden Temple, Amritsar
Receiving the humble food to take into the Temple. It is returned upon entering the temple, and retrieved upon exiting, consecrated as communion
Sweet girls at the Golden Temple who chased me down to be photographed
Sweet girls who wanted their photo taken with the "Christian"
The silly girls at the Golden Temple who wanted their photo taken
The silly girls jumped into this picture requested by the woman in the back. She's the one who gave me the golden ring. (See the story on my blog -- http://khindia.wordpress.com/2007/03/07/welcome-to-the-golden-temple/ )
The girls of the Golden Temple, Amritsar
The faithful wait in line to enter the Temple. The holy music is performed round the clock on the first floor of the Temple and is broadcasted across the waters, echoing from the marble corners of the complex
The Golden Temple seen from one of the four gates -- one is situated in every direction to symbolize the All Are Welcome creed
The Golden Temple
Driving through Amritsar with Jasvinder's Punjabi music in the background
Another blue door. This is the only photo I took at Jallianwala Bagh -- the site of the 1919 massacre of over 1,000 unarmed Indian civilians by British troops. They had entered this enclosed compound from this single-file alley to peacefully meet and demonstrate, and were blocked inside and shot by British soldiers. An extraordinarily sobering place.
Shaun tries on the famous no-left-no-right, curled toe Punjabi juttis
Street food in Amritsar
Walking to the India/Pakistan border
Pakistan
Pakistan stands at the changing of the guards ceremony at the Indian/Pakistan border
Pakistan stands at the border ceremony
Indian border guard. They are chosen for their height -- 6'5+, and wear elaborate, fussy uniforms to perform the rituals. My camera died here, and I'm missing so many of the compelling images from this day, including one of Allyson & I, away from the festivities, at the actual, three-rowed, electric fence marking the border. She had it on her camera, and lost it to technical difficulties. Darn.
India/Pakistan border
Photos are forbidden in Hindu Temples and it's bad form to photograph holy statues and icons. I was so intrigued by the gorgeous depictions of the Hindu deities, that I took this chance to snap a newspaper lying on a street vendor's chair featuring this image of Rama.
Flower vendor in Central Market, Delhi
Delhi-dogs in Central Market
Marigold garland vendor in Central Market
Allyson bargaining for Rajasthani tapestries in Janpath Market, Delhi
The girls volunteered me to be the subject of an Indian wedding preparation demonstration one night -- little did we know I'd be doing it for real just a week later. This is a skin-refining tumeric paste.
Covered in tumeric
Rinsing off the paste
Indian wedding makeup
Ankle & toe jewelry, and traditional red markings
Trying on the borrowed saree
Wedding saree
The jewelry for the demonstration was borrowed from several people, so there was a mix of silver and gold, but you can see the amazing belt piece and on my hands
Indian wedding jewelry
Loved going through the rituals and (unknowingly) getting a trial run to figure out what looks good and what doesn't before our actual Indian wedding just a week later
How many men can you see sleeping up there?
Country First
Little Delhi-dog pup in the park on our walk to the CCS office... everyone wanted to take her home.
Sweet girl
Such a show-off
Puppy girl
Oh, so lovely
Little devil dog charges the camera
Ginger and garlic for sale
Jerome, Shaun, Vicky & Bruno visiting a Sikh temple
Sikh temple in Delhi
Pilgrims at a Sikh temple in Delhi
Flower vendors at a Sikh temple in Delhi
Flower vendor at a Sikh temple in Delhi
Kim, Anna & Tiffany attend the first birthday party of a woman from their placement
Kim, Anna & Tiffany in their sarees
Anna & Tiffany in their sarees
The road to Mother Teresa's
Allyson & I with Auntie at Mother Teresa's
Sister Claris was absolutely beside herself at the idea of taking of a picture me squeegie-ing the floors. I'm not sure what was so funny about it, but she was delighted.
More pictures that made Sister Claris crack up
Still dunno why Sister thought this was so funny...
The outdoor washroom at Mother Teresa where I learned how to really wash clothes by hand
Mary in the garden
Sweet Shanthi
This is my favorite picture from India
Sister & Auntie
Sister & Auntie in the garden
Sister in the garden
In the garden with Auntie, Allyson, & Shaun
The girls with their new bowling game
Love this picture of the girls at Mother Teresa's
Shaun & Emmit reading & writing
Saying goodbye to Mary
Saying goodbye at Mother Teresa's
Sister and the girls with the Mary statue
Allyson & I with Sister at Mother Teresa's
Sister with the Mary statue
With Sister in the garden
Somehow Indian women always manage to keep their colorful clothes spotlessly clean amidst the dust and dirt
My lover
Oh, so gorgeous
I cheated on that moped with this hot ride
That's what I'm talking about
Oh, she should be mine
Allyson plays tug-o-war with our little pup and her dupata
Farewell dinner
Vicky, Sohini (already coloured by Holi powders) and Emma at our farewell dinner
Calypso & Amie
Vicky-ji
Mmm... warm Indian breads cooked right over the flame
Puffing up in the flame
The Qutb Minar
Ruins at the Qutb Minar
Karen & Allyson at the Qutb Minar
At the base of the Minar
Detailing on the Minar
Koranic scripture carved into the Minar
Doorway of the mosque at the Qutb Minar
Allyson at the Qutb
Love this pic of Allyson at the Qutb
Trying to capture the wind-blown dupata
Pillars at the Qutb Minar
Karen & I at the Qutb
The symmetry is beautiful
Allyson & Karen at the Qutb
More posing at the Qutb Minar
Detailing at the Qutb Minar showing how new Islamic holy sites were built using culled-together architectural remnants from ruined Hindu temples
Patchworked structures at the Qutb, built from the sacked buildings of other rulars/faiths
Allyson, Jerome & Karen at the Qutb Minar
Allyson, Jerome, & Karen at the Qutb Minar
Shaun, Lauren & Jerome at the Qutb Minar
Woman in a lovely salwar kameez at the Qutb Minar
Another patchworked doorway at the Qutb Minar
Woman at the Qutb Minar
Little girl exploring the ruins of the Qutb Minar
Carvings at the Qutb Minar park
More patcheworked buildings at the Qutb Minar
Tiny shrine at the Qutb Minar
Lovers picnic at the Qutb Minar
Delhi-dog at the Qutb Minar
Qutb Minar park
Damon arrives and gets camera happy at the hotel
Damon arrives and can't stop taking pictures
Sometimes, Damon just keeps laughing and snapping the pictures until I hide or flip him off...
Holi's first victim: Kate
Getting ready to brave the streets for Holi, Kate, Emma, Amie and Sohini have already been hit
Allyson & Bruno celebrate Holi
Allyson, Karen & Kim celebrate Holi
Damon & I celebrating Holi
Me & D on Holi
Happy Holi!
Anna & I celebrating Holi
Yeah, boyeeee
Anna & Daniel taking a break from Holi
Calypso & Amie taking a breather
Anna, Bruno & Daniel taking a break from Holi
Kim got Grimaced
Daniel & Vicki-ji take time out for a Kingfisher
Daniel & Vicky-ji breaking out the bar
Lalit and his son celebrating Holi
Vicky & I celebrating Holi
Daniel & Viciki behind those masks?
Happy Holi
Jaggi celebrates Holi
Oh, Emma.
Happy Holi, Kate. (This is where it all started going downhill for Jaggi...)
Sohini's devil shot
Frenchman celebrating Holi
Kate kisses Sohini, the freezing baby bird
Celebrating Holi
Taking a sweets break at Holi
Oh, Emma. This is where it went from a religious holiday being celebrated by international volunteers to Girls Gone Wild. ;)
Uh-oh.
And the National Geographic cover shots begin
Stay away from us with your soul-stealing magic box
Self portrait
Holi turns scary
Happy Holi, Vicky-ji
Happy Holi Damon
Delhi streets
Damon visits Mother Teresa's to meet the girls
Damon visits Mother Teresa's to meet the Auntie
Auntie gives us wedding gifts of reed brooms, a flute for Damon, & a jewelry box, necklace and Mother Teresa medal for me
Saying goodbye to Auntie
Damon visits the ladies at Mother Teresa's who insist on having their picture taking with Didi's Pati, or big sister's husband
Saying goodbye again
Damon meets and says goodbye to Mary
Saying goodbye to Lalita
India Gate
Chandi Chowk, shopping for a wedding saree
Shopping for a wedding saree at Chandi Chowk
A view of India's largest mosque from a bike rickshaw in Chandi Chowk
A view of India's largest mosque from a bike rickshaw
India's largest mosque
Carrying a God on your head
Bangle shopping in Chandi Chowk
My wedding saree
Sunrise in Agra
On the road to the Taj Mahal
Sunrise in Agra on the road to the Taj Mahal
Arriving in Agra
Arriving in Agra, monkey-spotting on the rooftops
Th Agra Fort
The Agra Fort
Arriving at the Taj Mahal
Morning at the Taj Mahal
Tiny glimpse of the wonder beyond
A glimse of the Taj
And there she is
Wow
Treeline over the Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal
Detail of the Taj Mahal
D + K visit the Taj Mahal
D+K visit the Taj Mahal
Namaste, Damon
Damon at the Taj Mahal
K at the Taj Mahal
D getting tired of posing at the Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal from down low
Curly-haired hooligan at the Taj Mahal
Looking backwards from the Taj Mahal
Visitors to the Taj Mahal
View of the Taj Mahal from down low
The mosque alongside the Taj Mahal
This building replicates the mosque on the other side of the Taj Mahal to meet the Shah's symmetry criteria, but it cannot actually be a mosque because it doens't face the right way
Damon about to enter the Taj Mahal
The steps up to the Taj Mahal
Entrance to the Taj Mahal
D+K taking snaps of the Taj
D+K at the Taj Mahal
Either everyone's an Indian, or everyone's a tourist at the Taj Mahal. Maybe a little of both.
I love this... such a typical scene
D at the Taj Mahal
Locked doors to the closed minarets that used to be the scene of so many lovelorn suicides
Looking out over the backside of the Taj Mahal
K taking a photo of some floral detail on the building across the way
The detail I was trying to capture in the shot before
It's windy at the Taj Mahal
Birds mar the Taj Mahal
Trying to take it all in without slipping in the booties
Looking out beyond the Taj Mahal
Shadows of the minaret
K+D visit the Taj Mahal
The mosque at the Taj Mahal
Camel caravan behind the Taj Mahal
Looking out behind the Taj Mahal
An observatory above the Taj Mahal
The back side of the Taj Mahal
Still windy at the Taj Mahal
Heaven help she who tries to rearrange her dupata from up here
The view behind the Taj Mahal
Birds are the only ones still allowed up in the minarets of the Taj Mahal
Minaret at the Taj Mahal
Interrupting D's careful shot of the minaret
The Taj Mahal -- too bad the weather was lousy
Parrots and chipmunks at the Taj Mahal
Parrot with chipmunks at the Taj Mahal
Chipmunks and parrots at the Taj Mahal
The love bench
Lover's bench, with carvings galore
Chipmunks and the Taj mosque
The grounds of the Taj Mahal
Flowering trees at the Taj
Leaving the Taj Mahal
Agra streets
Agra street
Monkeys at Akbar's Tomb
K+D at Akbar's Tomb
Black buck antelope at Akbar's Tomb
Akbar's Tomb
Shoe-minders at Akbar's Tomb
Mosaic ceilings in Akbar's Tomb
K at Akbar's Tomb
Ceiling mosaic at Akbar's Tomb
Entrance to Akbar's Tomb
Ashram outside of Agra
Streets outside of Agra
Traveling in India
Women manage to balance on the back of mopeds, holding babies, bags, and any number of things while still looking beautiful in a saree
Old world meets highway traffic
Old world transport meets highway traffic
Red doors in Agra
Blue door in Agra
Brown door and monkey in Agra
Handpainted billboards in Agra
Boys and billboards
Lunch at a roadside dhaba
Traveling in Delhi
Balancing act
Sleepy boy
D wakes up
Sweet boy
Damon starts snapping again
Sangeet the night before D+K's wedding
Applying the mehndi
Freehand mehndi
Wedding mehndi -- one hand done
The girls watching the mehndi application and deciding where they want theirs
Hands are done... almost ready to get married
Full hand mehndi done... now the feet
Chai with friends
The lovely Chetna (sp?) who readied me for the wedding and couldn't have been sweeter. She also stood in as my mom for the ceremony.
Vicky-ji takes 30 seconds+ to take each picture, so often gets his photo snapped in the process...
Vicky taking pictures
All the girls with the pre-wedding mehndi
Pre-wedding mehndi on the girls
Loved this announcement on the office board
Even expert mehndi can't cover up the purple and pink Holi stains
Even expert mehndi can't cover up the pink and purple Holi stains
And now the feet...
Applying the lemon juice to set the mehndi
Wedding mehndi
Sohini caught decorating Bela's house for D+K's wedding
Garlands of marigolds everywhere
Bruno gets turbaned up
More turban wrapping
Damon's head breathing its last before the dreaded turban
Damon suited up for our Indian wedding
Vicky-ji arranging Damon's turban
Vicky arranging Damon's turban
The wedding turban
The groom waits. And waits...
...and waits
And it begins...
Ready to get married
Damon surrounded by his pretty harem
Damon awaits the bride
The priest annoints Damon as the wedding begins
The girls at the wedding
Sprinkling herbs on the fire
The cermemony continues
Watching the wedding in the sunlight
Cameras everywhere
The bride arrives with her (surrogate) parents behind her
The rituals begin
The cloth is tied around us to bind our lives together
The Hindu priest
Covering the leaves with our hands
Covering the leaves with our hands before the fire, while friends toss petals at us
Feeding one another to signify our pledge to care for each other's needs
Using our tumeric covered hands to toss herbs into the fire
Preparing to circle the fire seven times to signify that our souls are tied together for seven lifetimes
The wedding garlands
Damon gives me the traditional mangalsutra necklace of gold and black onyx beads
Somehow he manages the clasp beneath the saree, jewelry, and garland
Preparing to feed each other sweets
Feeding sweets
Receiving wedding blessings from friends
Almost married
Touching the priest's feet to conclude the ceremony
Married!
Marigold petals at our wedding
Our one and only photo with the dear Prashant, our tailor and friend, who blessed us with his presence and helped translate the ceremony. He took all these photos too. We love Prashant.
We really did it
So, so happy
My favorite picture of our wedding
So happy
It really is that colorful, that festive
Bruno loves is turbans
The groom's turban is starting to pinch
Another one of my favorites
This is a new brand of happy
I really didn't know life could be this good
The garlands are just amazing
The garlands are just amazing... what the CCS staff and volunteers managed to do in two days to put this together for us on a rooftop in Hauz Khas still astounds us. I think I could plan for a year and never achieve such honest loveliness
The bride should never stand with someone way prettier than her. ;) Isn't Chetna gorgeous?
Totally married
More wedding pictures with friends
We're married
We decide to stop by the Qutb Minar for five minutes of pics among the ruins. We didn't realize the delight that masses of Indians would take in the idea of westerners having an Indian wedding. We were followed by hundreds of laughing people calling their friends and families to tell them what they were seeing and we were asked to pose with them all, in every different configuration, for a long, long time. Exhausting, but wonderful...
Wedding pics at the Qutb Minar
Back to the hotel to relax...
Back to the hotel to relax... the staff were so excited about our wedding that they were all waiting in the lobby to photograph us, give us dozens of red roses and escort us to our room where they had left a chocolate truffle cake, wine, fruit, nuts, etc. So, so sweet.
Post-wedding treats from the hotel
Roses from the hotel staff
Posting wedding photos on the blog to show family and friends
Winding down after a wedding dinner with friends at the hotel
Winding down after wedding dinner with friends in the hotel
Reading messages from flickr friends after wedding dinner in hotel
Reading messages from flickr friends after wedding dinner with friends at the hotel
Okay, enough pictures already
Seriously. I'm going to kick your ass.
Last call, and then the camera dies a watery death in the tub
D scoping out a map for our last day in Delhi
Classic D face -- love this picture
Making plans to visit a temple on our last day in Delhi...
...and a fussy complimentary breakfast in a fussy wing of the hotel for the newlyweds.
Roadside shots on the way to the airport
