Check-in at Porvenir, the first stop in Kuna Yala
Some interesting building materials are used -check out all the coral.
This can't be good for the coral...or his feet!
Nearby Wichubhuala, a more populated island...
Nalunega -the homes look stacked one on top of the other
Also nearby: Sail Rock. Most of the islands we saw were more like this...
...with only a home or two.
The Eastern Cayos Limon. This is Dog Island in the foreground, with a shipwreck just offshore to the left. The captain beached the ship in hopes of salvaging the cargo. SOME of the rum was recovered...!
This was our first anchorage, that's Banedup on the left.
This guy doesn't even have his anchor set and he's already about to be bombarded with molas, fish and limes!
A Kuna woman, in typical dress
An example of a more traditional mola. This one represents 4 generations.
Another traditional design. They all have a story.
These molas with depictions of animals came later on, but are still considered quite traditional.
Only four arms, and it didn't look like it had lost one.
Spearfishing...
It's a rough life!
Hot Mama returning with ice saves the day!
Shopping for dinner
One big crab, 2 lobsters and a photo for $7
Crystal is about demonstrate the Wring & Ream...
First you break off a part of its antenna, then firmly grasp the lobster and quickly twist and pull the head off the body...
Next, adding insult to injury, use its antenna to clean the poop chute: twist the antenna inside and the barbs will take everything clean out with it.
Now it's my turn: Wring...
and Ream!
Uh oh, the antenna broke! Now I have to go digging. There's a future for me in proctology, Travis says!
Hello Mr. Crab...
“Hey!...”
“Whoooa there buddy!!!”
But his legs were darned tasty.
Oops!! After dinner, I take an unexpected swim.
“Oh yeah??”...
“Laugh it up, fuzzballs. I'll just swim home!”
Of course, I'll take a ride if it's available...
Don't worry -I've got a firm grip on that thing!
Shovelnose lobster
Had a heck of a time getting into this sturdy fella but he, too, was tasty.
It's so hard to pick the perfect sunset photo...
...
Crystal & Jeremy thought we looked like a bonafide cruising boat! Gas cans, bananas & towing two kids along.
The Western Cayos Coco Bandero. That's a shipwreck in the background.
Got Crab?
These guys spend half the time fishing, and half the time bailing out their ulus.
The island of Orduptarboat
They have a small camp set up.
The white bags are for hauling away the coconuts. They export tons of them to Colombia.
The providers of our next lobster dinner. The guys are always so happy, I think that I would like to be a man if I were Kuna... fishing all day with your buddies, the wife with all the responsiblity...
So fresh they were still twitching!
I couldn't get enough of these ulus with their patchwork sails.
Although, our vessel is almost as cool.
Another nearby island.. dunno the name...
Every Thursday a tourist boat comes in and the Kuna women congregate to set up tables with their wares to sell.
This man is cleaning up and collecting the coconuts. He was very friendly.
That's the tourist ship on the horizon with one more stopover before arriving here the next day.
Check out the chair on the left!
I've never seen a thatched roof made with this kind of palm frond.
Photos of the reef taken from the kayak -I just hung the camera over the side. This is Star Coral.
Also Star Coral
Elkhorn Coral...
Brain Coral...
Sea Rods -soft coral
Star Coral again -different colour
Fire Coral -no touchy!
Joannefish
The opportunity to swim and play in these waters every day is something we definitely don't take for granted.
A terrible photo of the three of us, but a good-looking raincatcher/sunshade, finally completed!
Our favourite anchorage in the Western Cayos Coco Bandero
We anchored in the channel between 2 islands. This is Olosicuidup, and it shores up so fast that we can walk halfway there even though we're anchored in about 30 feet of water. This is the island we had our BBQs on.
Dozens of starfish are camped on the spit of sand right off the island -had to be careful not to step on them.
People off the backpacker boat -touristas!
A nice grouper...
...even tastier with onions & lime!
It fed four people.
With Fiona, Terry & Marjatta (tending the grill!), Paul & Maureen
Paul is perplexed about the fire.
Travis laughing at my Indian Fire Stoking technique! It requires a healthy set of non-smoker lungs.
Everyone is amazed that I did it without catching my hair on fire!
Dupwala -ours are the only footprints in the sand
We dinghied over for a closer look at the shipwreck.
It only just missed the channel.
Tiadup
This island is owned by three separate families, each taking their turn living here to harvest the coconuts. They're only allowed to take what's on the ground, so I guess you get what you get!
His dog hates gringos, so he's holding the pooch for our protection!
Grandma's stitching up a storm.
Cracking fresh coconuts for us
With Paul & Maureen, Terry & Marjatta -South Africa, Canada, Australia & Finland respectively
“Lioness” at sunset
Some of the Kuna people that Crystal & Jeremy met...
Lisa, with the completed Max Mola.
