85 MPG, cant beat that even if it is ugly!
Schematic of the Charger
Transformerless Charger from uhtrinity
Parallel Battery Connection
Charger setup with meters to monitor current and voltage
Close up of the charging socket and charging cable
Meters showing 155.9Volts at 190 ma charging
Sides off the charger to promote cooiing at 190 ma. When used at 100 ma the cooling is sufficient with the sides on.
New HV connector
This is the "indexed" trailer light connector used for the HV. Since it is indexed there is no way to plug it in backwards and the spring loaded cover pervents stuff falling into it when not in use.
Air Horn Installation on Honda Insight
Sub Pack connections in the IMA battery These connections are shown from the back of the plug as that is the way you will be measuring them.
First wire from terminal #1 threaded into the empty tube and out the end to the sub-pack connections
View from relay end showing the end of the empty tube drilled out to pass wires. Note the temporary jumper between Sub-Pack 12 and 13. This is to facilitate charging in series without having to replace the end plate which has the disconnect switch in it. With multiple charge and discharge cycles its a PITA to keep removing the end plate. The black alligator clip is there as I was doing a discharge cycle on the first 5 sub-packs simultaneously while installing the connector strip.
View from the Starboard end showing the plastic drilled out to pass wires into the empty tube
Close up of barrier strip mounting. The studs at the ends will hold a plastic cover to prevent problems with lazy fingers and dropped tools.
20 position barrier strip connections to the 20 sub packs. Note the red wire to the top of #20 which is used for HV charging The Black wire goes to the negative side of the Inverter input.
Connections from the Barrier Strip to the data plug that will plug into the "through chassis" plug that is installed in the cover.
The through chassis plug that the battery data plug fits into on the cover.
Data Port after all is put back together. Now I will be able to attach the instruments I have designed, a dynamic battery balancer and a dynamic voltage monitor, without removing the cover.
Left Headlight polished with Mguires #10, Right headlight before polishing
Back side of Monitor with control panel below
VGA, Composite and power inputs on bottom of monitor
Monitor before mounting the control panel
Programing the Computer before installation.
Installed in the Honda Insight. The console has been moved back just over an inch so cup holders are now more usable AND there is room for the Monitor. I moved the console back as far as possible and still have room to operate the emergency brake. There is no need to do anything but drill 4 new screw holes to match the new more rearward position.
Honda monitor with GPS showing. OBD reader is below and to the right of the monitor.
Honda monitor showing the hand held mouse with GPS on screen
5700 with the video card removed and the HD on a cable to the side.
5700 with the HD in place over the folded cable.
5700 with the video card now in place over the HD
5700 completely assembled with HD and Video Card in place.
Cable and base plate for the On board Charger. Note markings showing where the battery leg is in the way of mounting. The two holes on the right (ended up using only the upper one the other one was too hard to reach) are for mounting to the battery case end plate. The left end of the plate sits on the cross member of the bottom of the box for support.
Four power supplies mounted on the base plate. Make SURE that the screws are short enough that they DO NOT TOUCH anything on the inside of the power supply. Seriously, it could kill you.... (I had to bend over the green LEDs to get clearance) Being mounted this way is easier to work with as the charger is mounted as ONE piece and can be wired externally and removed with just one bolt removal if need be.
Bottom view of four power supplies mounted on base plate. The CC power supply is mounted on the bottom so the ends of the other three supplies are easier to reach for adjusting the voltage. (adjusted to 42 volts to give an upper limit of 174 volts) Also the blue and brown wires can wrap around to wire the other three without any more wire being needed for the AC wiring.
Everything mounted, wired and installed on the right side of the battery box. Green cord is AC pigtail, black cord on left is high voltage DC output (see the red and black wires entering the tape). The Wall Wart for the fan operation is to the left of the power supplies. Make sure you use the clamp for strain relief of the AC cord and a rubber grommet where it goes through the box wall. Note, I used a Dremel tool to cut open the end of the Wall Wart to remove the AC prongs and wire it directly to the AC lines at the power supply. It is epoxied to the base plate. The 1.5A diodes in the fan and battery connections act as isolation AND as 1.5A fuses, they are wrapped under the electrical tape where the connections are made.
On board charger plugged in and charging the battery, fan spinning. Measured output at exactly 350ma. Fan Wall Wart is 9V at 500ma and spins the fan more than fast enough. BTW, if you hook up the fan and it doesn't spin, you probably have the wires reversed. There is a diode INSIDE the fan that blocks reverse connections.
Display module with the "toggle" switch glued to the left side top of the board using Silicone RTV and a small piece of bussiness card and electrical tape to prevent electrical connections from accidentally being made. The three wires are threaded through the small holes in the display board to get to the back. These are NOT connected to those holes, just use them for transportation of the wire aft. I also used the RTV to stabilize the three wires so they would not chafe in the holes.
Back side of the display board showing the three wires from the "toggle" switch coming back and the Battery Gauge board affixed to the back side of the display board.
Face Plate for the Battery Monitor made from some plastic out of the bottom of a cat litter bucket. The four screws will mount the Battery Gauge module previously assembled.
This is the entire assembly of the Battery Gauge monitor. Note, no wires have been connected yot. This is just the mechanical module.
This is the assembled module ready to be wired and mounted. The "toggle" switch is on the left. A note of caution, when you drill the hole for the "toggle" make sure it is large enough that the toggle can move.
Location for mounting Battery Monitor after using a Dremmel tool to remove the plastic in the back where the gauge will go.
Installed. I dont like the four screws and may change the faceplate later, but for now that will do until I get the wiring done. I will probably paint the faceplate to match the dash. I can use the faceplate for a template later to make one without screws on the front.
$2 knife holder from the thrift shop, cut and modified with a lid and $1 arm rest pillow to serve as a center console.
Center console made from a $2 kitchen knife holder purchased at the thrift store. The hinged lid was added and a $1 blue pillow (car washing pad covered in terry cloth) was velcroed to the top for an easy, washable, arm rest.
