Getting ready for the Opera. Trying to lace those shiny shoes...
Got it!
The, um... 'view' from our hotel window... if you were standing up against the far wall ...
and bending your neck just so...
or standing on the bed you could see the bell tower of Notre Dame. Arghh.
At the Opera Garnier... unfortunately the Opera for which we had tickets was the Bastille Opera! Yikes.
We began our exploration of Montmartre at Anatole de Baudot's Moorish church of St. Jean-l'Evange'liste (1904). After two years in Morocco, the arches looked very familiar! Noted for its ceramic decoration and red-brick facing (St. Jean-des-Briques!
Here you can see the floor and the arched stained glass window in the back, and the very cute chap in the front is mine.
This was the first church in the city to be built of reinforced concrete.
As we begin the slopping accent to Basilique du Sacre'-Coeur, we followed the path of St Denis, poor chap - brought here by Roman soldiers to be executed at the hilltop Temple of Mercury, but too pooped to continue, the cranky chaps pulled out their swords and beheaded him halfway up the hill. Denis, cheeky chap that he was, picked up his head and carried on for an additional 4 miles (head in hand), stopping only to wash it under a nearby fountain. He finally collapsed on the spot where the basilica of St Denis now stands. The Chapelle du Martyre is built on the site of his execution (the builders did not wish to hike the hill either). The earlier statue on this site was where the Jesuit Order was founded in 1534.
The funicular that takes those without the fortitude of St. Denis up the hill to Sacre'-Coeur
Just down rue des Trois Fre'res you find 'place Charles Dullin', with the charming The'atre de l'Atelier at its far end and Cafe' du The'atre - a good place for a cafe' stop and to rest your feet at the other.
a closer look at what I thought are the charming doors
266 steps up - here we go...
Basilique du Sacre'-Coeur
as we climbed the remaining steps and toured the church inside...
we made our way around to the left to find the crypt and the staircase that leads to the top and a magnificent view of Paris (so says the guide books)
But the kiosk was broken, the crypt was closed and there was no one in sight to fix either one! Arghh! Q said perhaps there was a strike, J said "the French!".
on the way down we passed the boulevard de Rochechouart and the famous No. 84 where once stood "Le Chat Noir", Rodolphe Sasis' famous cabaret, where members of the bourgeoisie could rub shoulders with the bohemian demi-monde. A few doors down, the crumbling The'atre Elyse'e-Monmarte still stands at No. 72 its elegance faded but its memories alive with a faint melody in the air of the can-can.
Here we have some other tourists that seem unhappy that the steps of the church are closed... or perhaps just in general?
Shops that are now fabric and clothing establishments, as well as cafes, were once brothels that were frequented by the young Pablo Picaso.
Ah... if the walls could talk eh?
There is a statue nearby (you just have to take my word for it because the story is so good) of Chevalier de la Barre, a 19-year-old knight who in 1766 was cruelly punished for singing songs in front of a procession of Capuchin friars without doffing his hat. He was executed, but only after his tongue had been pulled out, his hand cut off and his body burned. The street that curls around the back of the basilica is named after him - a great comfort I'm sure.
In the 17th century this belonged to Claude de la Rose, better known as Rose de Rosimond, one of Molie're's actors. In a strange twist of fate, the ator died on stage while performing "Le Malade Imaginaire".
In the 19th century artists rented studios in the house, among them Renoir, Dufy, Suzanne Valadon and her son, Maurice Utrillo, who immortalized La Maison Rose, the little pink house at 2 rue de l'Abreuvoir, in one of his paintings.
The last vineyard in Paris
The Montmartre vineyard, one of only two such survivors in Paris. Planted in the 1930's at the instigation of the artist Poulbot, it is a reminder of the time when vines covered the Butte.
Approximately 700 bottles of Clos Monmartre are produced every year.
Though wine buffs rarely rush to buy this robust red with more than a hint of vinegar, a boisterous fe^te is held here in October to celebrate the harvest.
The gardens at the Eiffel Tower where we went looking for the elusive carriage that only 'appears' at dusk.
Just a very strange looking tree don't you agree? I love the weeping willow behind it.
..and looking up
standing a bit taller...
The wonderful rain storm coming in; I do so love Paris dressed in the rain.
We were looking at garrets across the river. A little house hunting...
THIS is where the "dog story" occurred!
THIS is where the Gallic Shrug occurred!
Paris in the fall! I love it.
19th century houses in French Renaissance and 18th century styles.. in the 8th arrondissment. Did you get all that?
Place Beauvau takes its name from the Marquis de Beauvau, a Marshall of France, who in the 18th century commissioned Hotel Beauvau. The building now houses the Ministry of the Interior, which you can only glimpse through elegant wrought-iron gates.
The old Gestapo headquarters, at No. 11
The posh Hotel Bristol from a discreet site...
rue de Courcelles
the corner of rue de Courcelles and rue Rembrandt - a red, five-story Chinese house with pagoda roofs. It was built in 1922 by a Chinese dealer in Asian Antiques, Mr. Loo. The Exclusive C.T. Loo et Compagnie still trades here.
This is how to have a relaxing vacation, or even an afternoon. I personally think it is Maid Marian who is totally tired out after getting the wrong train and ending up in France instead of Sherwood Forest!
The English style Parc de Monceau was orignally designed for the Duc d'Orleans by the writer and painter Carmontel in the late 18th century.
The strange objects dotted about - columns, obelisks, archways, antique tombs, a bridge that goes nowhere..are all follies remaining from that time.
there are six Belle Epoque monuments of French writers and musicians.
In the middle there's an artificial rocky hill, flower-strewn on one side, with a cascade (we never saw the "cascade") on the other.
Love in the park... at any age!
To reach Muse'e Nissim de Camondo, we turned right onto boulevard Malesherbes, then right again onto rue Monceau. A private collection left to the nation, this 1912 mansion (modelled on the Petit Trianon) is stuffed with 18th century furniture, porcelain, paintings, objects d'art and a fantastic kitchen circa 1914.
a state of the art cast iron range. I wasn't sure we could take photographs so I only have them of the kitchen but will send you over to another site for more.
need a copper pot?
We were quite taken with the house and its history. I am going to do a separate blog on that.
Shiny, shiny!
servants have to eat too..
more cooking space
the double sink in the cooking area
J checking out the sinks
working the meat grinder!
the housekeeper's office
I thought we agreed to lean to the left today.
I was trying to be unobtrusive...
I cannot read that from here. Can you lean a bit more?
more of the Parc de Monceau
still no "cascade"
Swings, a carousel and ice creams for children make this park ideal for family strolls.
"It says here that YOU have been misleading me as to the distance from WHEREVER we ARE back to the hotel."
"So I understand you are all alone here in Paris? Hmmm...?"
"Oh oui you can trust ME!"
This little doll in the pink captured our attention
now THAT'S a French face!
and home for tea and biscuits
And THIS is what a French Mama' looks like...
A day in the park with ball and scooter.
Is this a gorgeous day or what?
running, jumping, climbing...
discussing Voltaire no doubt
love in the park... we contributed to this part...
The gates leading out of the park
Rue Daru and the Russian Orthodox Cathe'dral St Alexandre Nevsky, with its five golden domes.
It was here in 1921 that Picasso married Olga Khoklova, a dancer with Diaghilev's Ballet Russes.
In the streets surrounding the cathedral, LIttle Russia has grown up, with a restaurant, bookshop, tea shop, school, and dance academies.
15 October 2009 at the Arc de Triomphe
I can not find what the occasion was about.
The participates appeared to be of the WWII vintage.. Does anyone know?
We are thinking of having copies made for our garden. What do you think?
On the way to the Alexandre III bridge which connects the Grand and Petit Palais on the right bank of the Seine with the Hotel Invalides on the left bank. Tsar Nicolas of Russia laid the first stone in October 1896. The bridge was named after his father, Tsar Alexander III. The Pont Alexandre III opened just in time for the Universal Exposition of 1900.
"It's cold and I know just HOW FAR it is to the hotel! Let's move Missy."
a night time view out our window
can you hear the bells?
I did some 'effects'...
and here we have the actual view. Lovely eh?
Made me think of the view that must of been that of ages past
Now just what do you think you are doing?
Along the Champs-Elyse'es
I love these flowers
the boot that covered the foot that I managed to fracture or at least badly bruise BEFORE leaving for the trip! Did NOT slow me down!
our view along the river walking home every day
one of the many tourists boats
one of the 37 bridges crossing the Seine, with the Eiffel Tower against a rose coloured sky.
one of the stationary boats for dinner and a magic show
more a taxi than a tour boat this one...
and we head back to the U.S.
