I learned my lesson the hard way with the first table. This time, I used a protractor at the center of the sheet of plywood and laid out each section. I also marked each radius to the edge. I then used a straight edge to draw a line between two radii equidistant from the center and double checked that the measurements were the same. Nothing was more than an eighth inch off, so I moved on.
I had marked where my straight edge was positioned. It was additional confirmation that my measurements were better this time when the lines intersected the radius at the same point.
These are the 2 sheets of plywood (1/2" for the table support and 3/4" for the table top) after cutting. They are held together with double sided taped between the sheets and wood screws from underneath in each of the corners.
Next I countersunk four t-nuts in the center portion of the table. I made sure that they would be far enough from where the table base would attach, but still inside the perimeter of the playing surface. I drilled a hole through both boards for the bolt and the threaded portion of the t-nut. Then I used a 3/4" router to make an 1/8" hole so the head of the t-nut would be flush with the table surface. It gives a smoother finish when covered with foam and felt later
On the first table I used a rubber mallet to drive the nut in and then installed the bolt. On the second table, I found it worked better to use the bolt to pull the nut down into the wood.
I used the template from the first table to cut out the center playing field. Again, it's 1/2" x 4" poplar from Home Depot. I cut the ends at 22.5 degrees and used plates from the cabinet hardware department to join them together. You could countersink them like I do for the chip tray template and then you could use a router guide and build the template with less of an offset. As it is, I had to take into account the offset for the router base.
Instead of screwing the template into the table top, I used double sided tape and clamps.
The playing surface is cut out using a 1/4" router bit. With 1/4" foam and fabric, it makes for a very tight squeeze when putting the table together. I'm half tempted to use a 3/8" bit the next time.
Here's the table top after cutting out the playing field.
Using the protractor, I laid out where I wanted the chip trays to be. This gave me a guide when positioning the template. On the first table, the chip tray is off center so that there is room for the cup holder on each side. On the second table, I centered the chip tray and put the cup holders between the sections.
The template is secured with double sided tape and I used a scrap in the center to give the router something to sit on. The pieces are cut using a 22.5 degree mitre and joined using cabinet hardware that has been counter sunk.
I took the center section out to round the edges with 1/8" round over bit. Sam the dog wasn't sure I needed to do this step, but I figured it would do less damage to the pad in the long run if the edge was softened up a bit.
I also used the 1/8" roundover on the inner edge of the table top and a 1/4" roundover on the chip trays.
For the chip trays, I used a piece of scrap taped in the center to give the router stability. For the inner edge of the table top, I attached it to the router base.
I cut out the holes for the cup holders using a circle jig I bought at Woodcraft. It's designed for a 1/4" bit, so I wasn't able to cut through both sheets at once. I did drill the pilot hole through both so the holes would line up. I'm going with the jumbo black plastic holders from casinosupply.com. They are cheaper than the metal ones and I could get ones that were big enough to hold a beer can in a coozy or a bottle without fear of it tipping over.
The edges of the table are maple. Because I don't have a table saw or planer, I purchased 1"x2" dimensional wood from a local lumber company. Since each side is a little different, I measured each and cut the trim to fit with a 22.5 degree angle. I attached them using a dowel jig for the holes. When dry, I rounded the top edge with a 1/4" round over bit and the bottom edge with a 5/8" round over bit. Then I sanded the bejeepers out of the top using 120, 150, 180 and 220 grit sandpaper
Another lesson learned. While it's a good idea to dry fit the table base and top together, it's a lot easier to finish the base unassembled. Drips are easier to control and you don't get any overlap on the legs when doing the main portion of the pedestal.
I used a water based finish in rosewood. I was very forgiving in the application process. Someone from Woodcraft recommended using Waterlox high gloss for the finish. This stuff went on easily and was self leveling. You need to wait 12 to 24 hours between coats, but it was a lot simpler than I expected. After curing, it's water proof and doesn't crack the way that polyurethane can.
The pad is 1/4" closed cell foam. I sprayed both the foam and the wood with super77 spray adhesive and let it get tacky before positioning the wood.
I trimmed the foam down so it would extend past the wood a couple of inches. I cut a notch perpendicular to each side. Adhesive gets sprayed on both the foam and the edge of the wood. When it starts to get tacky, pull the foam up and staple it to the wood on the edge.
The staples on the edge don't show when the felt is on. You can then trim the foam flush with the bottom of the playing surface. For the felt, I do the same thing, spraying adhesive on just the foam this time. This helps keep the cloth in place. Before cutting, make sure that the cloth lies smooth on the table surface. I make the same perpendicular cuts in the cloth, except I don't cut the notch as close to the corner. I left it about an inch short of the wood. Then you pull the cloth over the edge an staple it place. At the corners you get a little overlap, sort of like hospital corners on sheets. This is barely noticeable and is hidden by the table when assembled.
I had tons of poker suede left over from my very first project, so I used the last of it for this table. I kinda like it over the speed cloth for this table. I find that my copac cards don't go flying off the edge as much. The good thing about the design of the table is that I could change the cloth with very little effort whenever I wanted.
My padding came wrapped in some 1/8" open cell foam that I think is perfect for the chip trays. I just traced the outline of the template on the foam and cut it about 1/4 to 1/2" from the outline. It's the same process for the cloth, only I cut it maybe a half inch larger than the foam.
Attach the foam with spray adhesive, cover with the cloth and staple the cloth in place. If you staple outside the edge of the foam, you are guaranteed to be under the table top and out of sight.
Everything finished and assembled, minus the cup holders. The playing surface sits 1/4" above the table top because of the foam.
And the obligatory last shot with cards and poker chips on the table.
