Mt Shuksan (9,127 feet (2,782 meters)) is a glaciated peak in the North Cascades National Park. The mountain´s name is derived from Skagit Indian language meaning "rocky and precipitous"! This is the famous view of the north face as reflected in Mirror Lake near Mt Baker; we however, are climbing from the south, up the Sulphide Glacier.
Day 1: We start out at 6:30am with our goal being to hike about 2,900 feet to set up our base camp. We do our gear check, pick up our food supplies and then stop off at the Rangers in the North Cascades National Park to get our climbing permit and check the weather report. Weather looks good for summit day....
We park the van about a mile from the trailhead - we can't get any closer due to some fallen trees on the path. Jason, our guide (pictured above), helps us get all our gear together and makes sure we have enough mini-cliff bars, hot choccy and cinnamon tea.
Finally, we are ready.... from the left: Andrew McMeekin, Emma Walton and Martin Hak.
Jason leads the way as we break in our mountain boots....
The first stretch of the climb is a hike through woodlands filled with Mountain Hemlock at the base of the mountain. As we climb, we begin to see views of Mt. Blum and Bacon Peak.
As we climb an old logging road through forested slopes of pine trees, Baker Lake comes into view.
Break time...
...we refuel on a healthy mix of Snickers bars, trail mix and Gatorade....
As we continue, we hit the snow and get our first glimpses of the glaciated North Cascades.
We gaze at the work that lies ahead (although this is nowhere near the summit!)
Emma and Martin with a view of Shannon Ridge.
Martin, with our first glimpse of Mt Baker in the background.
View of Mt Baker (elevation 10,778 feet (3,285 m)) through the trees.
The guys take a rest and talk climbing.
Jason explains the "Leave no Trace" ethic....
We set off again and the climb gets noticeably steeper....
...we climb with Mt Baker in the background....
...and really feel the weight of our backpacks....
We debate whether to set up camp here or to carry on to the glacier....in the end Jason calls it and decides to set up here.....it turn out to be a wise decision as no sooner had we set up camp than thunder and lightening begins over Mt Baker and moves in our direction.....
View to the East side of our camp...
The snow field near camp.
View of Mt Baker from our base camp.
View of Baker Lake and Lake Shannon from base camp.
So this wind-blown col at 5400ft is where we set up camp....
Martin is very glad to take take the heavy load off.
Jason and Andrew refuel before setting up camp...
Jason digs out a snow hole for our stove, a little storage unit for our food, and a seating area where we put mats covered in plastic bags to sit on.
Jason starts cooking...as the temperature drops...
Andrew finishes erecting his tent and we attach our permit to the outside.
While we are setting up camp, another climber passes by and walks the route we are to follow tomorrow....
Emma puts the finishing touches on the other tent....that Martin mostly set up!
We have dinner: pasta with meat and green peppers...
...then cookies and hot chocolate for dessert...
...and some yummy cinnamon tea...
The weather changes quickly and clouds begin to rise...
....and it pours over Mt Baker and over us too...
...there is some thunder and lightning...
...but the rain clears up in time for a beautiful sunset.
...and we watch as the sky turns pink ....
... and the sun...
...slowly fades away...
....on the western horizon...
....until night falls over camp. Its rainy and windy all night and some of us don't sleep.
Day 2: Our goal is to learn some "snow skills" that we will need to climb the summit. Around 9:00am we awake in the middle of a cloud: its cold and wet as we eat our granola and oatmeal...
Jason explains that today we will learn (i) Self Arrest techniques, (ii) Ice Axe positioning and different techniques for ascending in snow (with both our mountain boots and with crampons) for different types and gradients of snow and ice, (iii) roped glacier travel, (iv) different knots to be used for tying our harnesses, and roping ourselves together.
Our training area for "Snow School" is conveniently right below our camp.
We pack up and head for the snow field.
We "plunge step" down and Jason tells us this is a wimpy gentle slope for us to practice on....then he explains how to grasp the ice-ax and how to "self-arrest" in case of a fall...
We create a slide and practice Self Arrest...
Martin practices self-arrest from head uphill/on back position: roll towards the head of the ax and plant the pick into the ice while rolling over onto stomach and kicking feet...
Then Self- Arrest when you fall on your back with your head downhill: plant the pick, twist and roll towards the pick, swing legs downhill and roll chest towards the pick....easy!!! aaarghh
Emma tries a "superman" self-arrest (head downhill/face down)....
....reach downhill and off to the ax-head side...
...get the pick into the snow and pivot on the pick....
...then swing your legs downhill and kick in to complete the self arrest....
...and Martin shows how NOT to get up (i.e. without securing yourself)...
...while Emma demonstrates the well-know self-arrest technique of "face in snow/bum in air"....!!
...meanwhile, Andrew's technique has been honed to perfection and he casually strolls up a vertical edge....
We then practice ascending in the snow....first, diagonally in balance without crampons...
....then Jason sets up a relay for us and we each practice different ascent walks and changing direction in the snow...
Emma demonstrates the French technique or flat-footing on ice, which is the preferred technique for low-angle to moderately steep ice, planting the ice ax for good measure.
Martin takes a break while Andrew and Emma are walking the relay...
..then its Andrews turn...
...and Emma's...
...and then back to school...we put our crampons on and Jason teaches us "pied marche" walking, "pied en canard" (duckwalking), "pied a plat" (flat-footing) and front pointing....
..and different ice-ax positions...
As he practices front-pointing, Martin wishes Jason would let him climb the steep wall on the far right.
This is as good as the snow wall gets during our introductory first day. Let's save the steep stuff for summit day!
The rain begins to clear ....
...and blue skies emerge and we start getting excited about summit day tomorrow....
Jason teaches us some knots and, after making sure we have the "clove hitch" (not to be confused with the munter hitch!!), he cooks up a power meal of mac n cheese and then Martin surprises us by revealing he's carried fresh fruit and a chocolate fondue set up the mountain.....
...but its super yummy and we dip fresh fruit (cherries, apple, banana and peach) and some dried apricots in warm chocolate....
...then we watch another beautiful sunset over the mountains and go to bed early.
...fast asleep in our tents.
Day 3: Summit Day! Jason wakes at 2:30am and gets breakfast ready. Then we get our gear together...
...turn on our headlamps...
...and set off ....
Night turns to first light as we watch the sun slowly light up the horizon....
...another 1000 ft or so and we start up the Sulphide Glacier....
...the vastness and beauty of the glacier becomes apparent as daylight intensifies.
...occasionally we look back to see the Picket Range glowing in golden colors.
As it gets steeper we rope up...
...and make our way toward the Pyramid of Mt. Shuksan....
....the summit is in sight !!
It's all smiles at the end of the rope, just trying to keep from stepping on it.
Finally the sun emerges...
...brilliantly lighting up the snow.
Emma takes in the spectacular view:
the vast Picket Range, including Mt. Challenger, Mt. Fury, Mt. Terror.
Off again and the summit pyramid of Mt. Shuksan protrudes sharply from the glacier ahead...
...as we make steady progress forward and upward.
Emma gets pumped up to tackle the peak...
The snow is hard and icy in the morning, giving us good traction as we climb up.
Looking back at our tracks in the cool white glacier....
..the glacier gets steeper and we approach to the base of the pyramid. There is a group of climbers ahead.
Looking back, we see the Picket Range in the distance...
...and now zoomed in...
Mt. Rainier stand tall on the horizon on the far left.
...Baker Lake and Lake Shannon...
...and a brilliantly lit Mt Baker to the West.
At the base of the Pyramid, we get our gear on and check our knots for the final ascent....
Finally, this is where we put our ice ax and crampon skills to work.
Jason set up a bomber anchor using a combination of picket, and two spring-loaded caming devices, sufficient support for all three climbers.
...and we begin to climb....
Another group of climbers are ahead of us and we have to wait while they set up their rappel and descend. We dodge a few falling rocks that they dislodge: the rocks are very loose!
Martin high above the Sulfide Glacier, with our base camp slightly visible on on the upper edge of the photo.
View of Mt Baker from half way up the pyramid...
A few clouds start to accumulate around Mt. Baker.
The Picket Range to the East...
The Sulphide Glacier we crossed is a sea of white far below. To give some perspective, the little cluster of dots in the bottom centre of the picture is another group of climbers.
The Hourglass rock formation straight ahead.
View of the beautiful Sulphide Glacier and the Cascades from half way up the summit pyramid. Our trail is visible below.
Andrew kicks out a great set of "steps" and Emma and Martin follow (literally) in his footsteps....
We are approaching the top...
...and over the final set of rocks...
...to reach the summit!
yippee!
Sweeeeeeeet!!!
Peak #1 summited, but we're not finished till we're back in the car.
Surrounded by a breathtaking panorama, it feels like we're on top of the world.
Andrew celebrates!
yeah!
The views from the summit: eastward of the Picket Range from the summit of Shuksan...
.... westward view of Mt. Baker close-up...
...and in full perspective with the Mt. Baker ski area below on the right.
...the Hourglass...
....looking north into British Columbia less than 5 miles as the crow flies....
...and looking down the treacherous crevaces of the Upper Curis Glacier on the North Face of Shuksan from the summit...not to be attempted for a long long time......
Time for a quick snack, and soon we have to leave the peak.
Gearing up for the descent...
...Jason prepares his rope to belay the group down.
We begin our descent....
Martin leads on the way down, with Emma and Andrew following, while Jason belays from the top. The sun has melted a lot of the ice and turned the snow sugary so we have to be careful.
Finally we make it down the summit pyramid and take a break for lunch....around 3:30pm...breakfast was at 2:30am..so we are starving!
Martin on his second bagel...he's been working hard!
Time to continue our descent down the glacier.
...after the guys take a quick "pit-stop"...
The skies get hazy as we descend the Sulphide Glacier...
...and the snow gets even slushier in the afternooon.
We leave the summit behind in the distance.
Martin takes the lead on the rope team down the glacier for a short time.
Do we really have to go back???
...a few more minutes....
The Sulphide Glacier (left) and Crystal Glacier (right) converge in a dramatic cascade of icefalls and seracs, which are blocks and columns of ice formed by intersecting crevasses on a glacier.
We have descended low enough to unrope before returning to base camp.
It's hard to leave this scenery behind.
We are now approaching our base camp...
...and our tents are thankfully still there.
After packing up camp we walk and run as fast as we can back to our van. We reach it around 10pm....
...exhausted....!
...as another night falls over Mt Shuksan.
