Ran a gas line for the BBQ, water line (had to move sprinkler vlaves out of the way) a drain line and dug a dry well too
This pic shows the orientation to the house
After cutting out some of the existing concrete, started framing for the slab. These are 2x6 forms.
Got some help with the mixing from my dad, that garage sale mixer was worth its weight in gold.
Put wet towels on the new concrete for a slow cure
Pizza oven foundation with footings and rebar for extra support
Freshly poured pizza oven foundation
That framed box is where the BBQ will sit
Tricky behind the back hose move
Making a relief crack, while flirting with carpenter's crack!
90 lb bags and a wheelbarrow- works everytime
Starting the block foundation- notice the blocks are dry stacked
Vertical rebar support
Dry stacked blocks, with vertical rebar support. When the cores are filled with concrete- this will be really stable.
good view of the horizontal binder blocks. When filled with concrete, everything is tied together.
Hole on the right is for the BBQ, the other is for double doors and a sink
concrete looks good for a total amateur
hole for the stainless steel double doors. The steel "L" shaped bar offers supprt to span the opening
the rounded back end of the pizza oven
See the wires? These will eventually be lights
Beautiful electrical work (just kidding, but it eventually worked)
Another view of the electrical work. Noticed the concrete filled cores in the block.
The horizontal biner row of block to tie in the pizza oven walls and foundation
Filling the cores
A beer and a smile
Had some block left over, so I ran a few out from the middle of the the curve. A little extra supprt for the oven foundation can't hurt.
Starting the counter top
Counter top covered with 3/4 inch plywood
Noticed the electrical. This eventually leads to a couple more light in the front of the oven.
Finished plywood countertop, ready for cement board
Starting the bar countertop
Begining the cement board - pretty messy work area eh?
Almost done with the cement board. The canopy is there to offer a little shade, around 105 degrees here.
Filled all the joints with a mesh fiberglass joint tape and Type I joint compound
Have the sink setting in place. The stainless stell directly above is a side burner. I took it off of my BBQ and built in place.
Canopy in place, 110 degrees here. Getting ready to start the pizza oven elevated foundation
Stainless steel doors and sink
Side burner- detached it from my existing BBQ and built it in place to save a few bucks.
Building support to pour the elevated foundation
Support and floor ready for a concrete slab
Rebar grid to support slab
Those are 2x10's. Foundation slab is about 6 inches, leaving about 4 inches for an insulating layer.
Nice clean work area
Tied the rebar grid into the horizontal rebar that was set in place in the floor foundation
The pour begins, forms quickly start to bow out. Grabbed a couple of peices of scrap wood and srewed them together to help keep the weight of the concrete from pushing out the forms
Finally got the kid to help...
Vermiculite and/or Perlite mixed with concrete 5:1 ratio- makes a perfect unsulating concrete
Decided to box in the insulating layer and only pour directly under the floor of the oven. That way, the walls of the oven will be bolted to the concrete floor rather than an insulated layer.
Firebrick. Weigh 4 lbs ea.
Vermiculite and concrete, dry mixed
Vermiculite and concrete, the insulating concrete layer is poured
Insulating layer done
Laying out the floor of the pizza oven. A diagonal or herringbone pattern is best. This keeps you from snagging your pizza peel on the floor joints as you slide in your pizza.
Trimmed of the excess with a 4" grinder and a cheap diamond blade
This is an arch template
Floor was poured on a bed of mortar, mixed from fireclay and water (no cement- to allow for some expansion). Put paper template on top of the floor to help keep it clean.
Used the template to figure out the angle of the arch towers.
Mortar is a mixture of fireclay, cement and sand
Used wedges made from a 1x4 to set the angle of the bricks
Good look at the first arch. Not bad for a first try, at least it standing!
This is a template I made to help keep the angle of the courses correct so the dome is round and even
Good look of the first 4 courses (the bottom course is called a soldier course) those are bricks cut in half and standing on end. With the 3rd and 4th course I started tapering the bricks a little for a cleaner joint.
As the course come up, it is a real challenge to join the course to the first arch. Some strange cuts and weird angles.
Laying out the second arch. I decided to taper these bricks for a cleaner look.
This vent in between the two arches is for the chimney
I cut come groves in these arch bricks to help keep them in place until the mortar dries. The grooves really locked the bricks together.
Second arch came out much better than the first. Notice the key stone tapped into place in the middle locking the arch in tightly.
Nice view of the vent
Notice a 1/2 in. set back from the inside arch. This gives a backstop of sorts for a door. An insulted door set in place will help with heat retention if I would like to bake bread or anything else that requres a lower steady heat
Sarting the chimney base plate foundation
Chimney base plate. Notice the bottom side of the base plate as a slightly tapered hole. This plate will attach to an 8" chimney pipe
Tricky cutting eh? Bottom is curved to sit nice on top of the arches, the inside circle is tapered to receive the chimney base plate.
Made these cuts with a 4" grinder with a diamond blade. Took forever, but only cut them once.
base plate foundation ready to go
Back to the dome- getting closer and closer to tying in to the arch
Each brick is cut in half. 10 in. tile saw did the trick.
Setting a brick in place
The circle is almost together!
The correct angle of these bricks as they attach to the arch is tough to find...but I got it eventually
Inside view of the dome, 6 course completed
Not great. The circle is closed, but its not exactly round- mre like a tear drop
See the tear drop shape? How can I get the courses round again?
Starting a decorative outside arch. Cool brown bricks also came from A&L Building Supply in Victorville.
Cut this brick special to help take away the tear drop shape and get the dome circular again
Dome is almost complete
This gives you an idea of the compound taper necessary for each brick in the dome. Each course is tapered more and more until the taper is really severe like these.
Ah ha! The keystone- actually, keystones. These are two bricks put together.
Finishing up the outside decorative arch.
3rd time is the charm! This arch turned out great.
Inside view of the top of the arch- keystone was a prefect fit.
Nice inside shot. Dome looks a lot bigger than it actually is. The inside radius is only 36 inches.
Got my son to climb in and clean all of the mortar joints. Notice the chimney base plate is in and the chimney is attached. Chimney and spark arrester came from Country Oak & Stoves in Victorville.
Peek a Boo!
Starting to work on the dome enclosure
Covered the dome with a 1 inch heating blanket from Forno Bravo
Good shot of the steel studs tying into the curved brick
Getting ready to light the first of 7 curing fires...just some newspaper on this one
Newspaper burns fast.
A little sketch of the metal 2 x 4 trusses
Good shot of the steel framing, along with the 4ft chimney and spark arrestor from Country Oak & Stove
A real challenge tying in all these trusses to a single apex
This is how you attach 8 metal trusses to the same spot
This is some cement board used to block off some of the void between the back wall of the dome and the block wall
Good look at the notched joints I used. Cement board seems to crumble if you put a screw too close to the edge- this was a good way to avoid that
Joints are then covered in fiberglass mesh jont tape and type I joint compound.
Bags of Vermiculite and Perlite to fill in the void around the dome
Final peice of the roof will go inplace after the inseide of the enclosure is filled with loose vermiculite
took about 15 bags to fill up the enclosure (this offers additional insulation)
Cooks in 90 seconds at about 850 degrees!
Nice little personal size Margherita (San Marzano Tomatoes, fresh moz, EVO and basil)
Cold beer, hot pizza and a smile
Notice the top of the dome turning white- the soot starts to burn of at around 750 degrees- when all of the soot is burned off- its time to cook!
First attempt at a BBQ Chicken Pizza (had to keep the vegetables on one side for my little brother who is afraid of vegetables)
Covering the counters with slate tile
Slate looks good eh? Only $1.25 sq. ft. at Home Depot.
Good shot of the brick veneer that will eventually cover everything (except the counter tops and the roof). This is a really nice looking brown flash from A&L Building Supplies
Need to clean those bricks..but its looking good!
Had to cut about an inch of the width of each brick to make the turn smoothly...very slow process
This is about all I could accomplish in a full day
Notice the vertical brick above the counter...the way the bricks lined up would have left a small sliver of brick where the wall and counter top meet. A row of vertical bricks solves that problem.
The vertical bricks all but disappear into the pattern...came out nice.
The completed turn
Only a few more bricks up the chimney and that box is checked!
Bricks are done...tile roof almost complete, one row left.
Nice shot of the start of the final row of tile
PIZZA OVEN COMPLETE!
Roof is fiished...oven is done! Need to clean up and grout the counter top to match the nice clean new roof.
Great shot from the ladder, roof and counter look great in that multicolor slate stone
That wall of grey cinder block will be covered in brick as well...eventually.