The only dive computer one ever needs.
Parachute for 50 W HID ... underwater stage light. Allows to hang the light at any height in water column. The attachment point on a light body is positioned in the gravity center (shift due the bouyancy was also count). This allows light beam to fire horizontally. When done parachute is carried in a dry suit pocket. Parachute is made from a children inflatable found in a garbage.
Second (left) monoblock stands side by side w/first one. Despite that it looks like a 50W utility halogen light the bulb was replaced w/HID. To dissipate heat I decided this time to use 1/4 inch borosilicate glass disk instead of the polypropylene translucent test tube. The burn time was also improved from 55min to over than 2 hrs with 9Ah DIY assembled NiMh battery pack.
The second monoblock is slightly longer than the first one but it has more focused light that penetrates much further and can be used for staging in a larger volume cave. Also the burn time was boosted to 2 hrs at 50W HID consuming 4Ah. Similarly to the first monoblock it has a magnetic sensor switch, and it can be suspended horizontally in a water column using a small boyuancy parachute.
Live oaks lightened by 50W monoblock at night. My lights can only work in air for a limited 2-3 minutes time. Because extreme heat produced by 50W HID bulb burns plastics. A cheap PVC-1 general plumbing materials were used in the design. Light should be submerged in between of its short surface duties. The battery pack is LiPo and therefore additionally sealed in its own waterproof pressure tested canister.
PVC-1 pipe used for making a boot for a dive computer.
2" schedule 80 PVC-1 pipe used to build a battery cannister here. Spring loaded latches are mounted to a hose clamp w/rivets. This eliminates a need to use screws which otherwise penetrate the wall of the canister.
Cheap workshop light from Home Depot comes with nice (for DIY)aluminum reflector that easily converts primary HID into video flood light.
Stroke-TV (VR3) needs a loop made off a nylon line to prevent its loss (they slide, or buckle can open accidentally). Q40 are small cheap almost disposable backups - very good for sidemounting (but originally they are missing a clip mount loops). Halcyon Scout light has unbreakable body and can be used as a sediment anchor or a weight for a line tie off when nothing else is available.
Dive-Rite Delux harness can be used for sidemounting. You just need to put the wing BC inside, between your back and a plate.
Classic Hog-harness w/argon bottle mount bands.
Sidemount BC with dual bladder. The second bladder is made of tire innertube, used when diving in a wetsuit, and only inflated orally when needed.
Poor man wing bladder. Car inner tube ends are fixed w/zip-ties (those having a stainless steel pin) and Aquaseal cement. Very short corrugated hose is perfect for sidemounting (it requires some duct tape to protect from damage from ceiling)
ARY-DIY 50W HID daylight spectrum dive light for video/photo underwater. Focus can be adjucted also for a wide background light. The light is mounted w/camera housing, carried manually, or can be belt-mounted to a scooter. See it in a cave: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvtxw_nNYzg
ARY-DIY 50W HID components clockwise: body, reflector cap, ballast and bulb w/magnetic remote switch, reflector body, o-ring, redundantly sealed Li-ion internal battery compartment. See it in action: http://video.nedoma.ru/members/viewVideo.php?video_id=2112&title=Underground+Florida+Sumps
ARY-DIY 50W HID ballast and bulb assembly and a battery compartment w/redundant seal that protects the battery in case of the main body flooding. Discuss: http://www.vodolaz.com/forum
ARY-DIY 50W HID light in a swimming pool
ARY-DIY 50W HID light output is slightly reduced (when compared to the variant w/transparent test-tube) however it creates an even smooth light sector. See the real scenery: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvtxw_nNYzg
ARY-DIY 50W HID outputs smooth spotless light
ARY-DIY molded connector. Molding prevents water to run inside of the wire and flood vital compartments (such as the battery and electronics in canister). The problem occurs when a wire jacket get damaged or one of compartments on either end of the cord is compromized. A tiny plastic jacket conduit while under a great pressure at depth can provide enough clearance for water to flood the connected compartment.
My best toy so far. The next DIY light will take advantage of it.
ARY. Cheap wal-mart boyscout compass work well as deep as 300' Discuss: http://www.vodolaz.com/forum
ARY eliminating failure points on conventonal mask strap. Discuss: http://www.vodolaz.com
ARY Modified failure-proof mask strap for cave diving. I eliminated all those little plastic buckles and pins entirely. Discuss: http://www.yefimovs.com
ARY DIY budget jump reel from wal-mart and knife, total of $8
I like large aluminum biners without a locking beak (smooth beak). They are large enough to clip off the fins if needed to enter thru a high flow restriction.
ARY No-mount setup for one of the Ocala National Forest caves. Discuss: http://www.yefimovs.com
ARY No-mount setup for one of the Ocala National Forest caves. Discuss: http://www.vodolaz.com/forum
ARY-DIY-50WHID mounted w/cam housing classic canister-cord-lighthead design.
ARY-DIY-50WHID and PVC cam housing w/classic rotor shaft sealed DIY controls.
ARY-DIY-50WHID. Monoblock mounted w/LANC controlled from the outside housing. Magnet is used to operate light and LANC. Discuss http://www.yefimovs.com/blog
ARY-DIY-50WHID and Sony TRV33 LANC controlled cam hosuing
ARY DIY 50WHID. Lighthead reflector assembly. Reflector pulled out from $3.5 Home Depot utility flashlight http://www.yefimovs.com/blog/index.php?entry=8
No-mount kayak cave diving exploration kit. Bike innertube loop is used to hold necks of the aluminum stage bottle[s] while looking for a new river caves from kayak. I use it with 3-6mm wetsuit.
Swivel is an extra failure point but can be helpful for the sidemount regulator second stage. It reduces jaw fatigue and makes LP hoses better streamlined. Bulldog clip is good because it can be clipped to anything, not only d-rings but fabric, straps or neoprene.
Rennaker`s butt plate that allows free hips movement. Tank neck strap.
Another small sidemount-nomount harness w/small wing
This is a small sidemount cave harness. The bladder still can be attached. When needed the butt buckle release allows you to use it for rappelling without changing the harness.
sidemount steel tank
Survey helmet, primary light made of doublesided SL4, jump reel, knife and markers pigtail clip. Helmet is handy when your hands are busy w/slates, compass and other sfuff. In no mount caves helmet mount lights replace canister light as it presents an extra entanglement risk in a very small passages. Doubled SL4-s are for the same purpose-to eliminate the cord. Helmet is also used by solo DPV nuts if it only can help it... Closed jump reel is made from walmart $4 Ozark Trail camping cloth reel. Cups are glued, c90 clip and bungee loop were added to lock the spool, and extra hole added to a side of the spool for a finger grip.
The "A" way to hook a 6 cuft argon bottle (I believe I read it from one of George Irvine's articles). This is not something THEY suggest you do today when H sells special bottle attachment bands.
The "A" way: about a foot long 2" webbing has velcro sewn to the ends. Webbing then gets attached to the bottle by SS hose clamps (optionally laminated to prevent aluminum corrosion). The body of a bottle is held by two nylon (important to prevent UV damage) shock cord loops.
The "A" way of hooking up a 6cuft argon bottle. The left side waste D-ring placement allows enough room to clip all the stage bottles needed. Regulator must have an overpressure valve and suit inflation hose is routed under the waist belt.
Fingerspools are the best for use as a safety and jump reel. To make it easy to remove the end loop of the line can be sprayed w/paint which keeps it rigid for next several uses. The knot on a loop is asymmetrical which helps to maintain a better opening and to hold the loop firmly.
Finger spools are the best for use as a safety and jump reel; To make it easy to remove the end loop of the line can be sprayed w/paint which keeps it rigid for next several uses. The knot on a loop is asymmetrical which helps to maintain a better opening and to hold the loop firmly.
Double-ender clip can be attached this way to prevent self-unlocking when spools are carried on a harness d-ring (opposite to the right way of having them in a pocket).
Canister light fixed by an extra SS buckle on the right side of the waist belt. The wire gland exit is facing outside to block possible guideline trap. Backup light SS clips are facing their opening bays toward the webbing - again it reduces an entanglement risk. The digital step watch on light head is to count DPV burn time.
ARY DIY50WHID.3"PVC-1 was used for a canister. Despite it is a video-light it has an adjustable focus that allows some more control over the light spot. Generally the spot is very smooth for better video (w/translucent bulb cover). Both canister and lighthead have clips to clip it off similarly to a stage bottle. When used in reverse position (lighthead clipped to the waist d-ring) it allows to light up the scenery behind a diver. Canister allows different battery packs but the one currently used is 4.5Ah NiMh (yields 60 mins burntime).
DIY 50WHID mono-block light and cam housing w/LANC both controlled by magnetic sensors from outside. Without cam the unit is neutral and easy to use underwater for photo-video staging. Housing tested to 200'. Negative w/camera inside the unit can be used to video features underwater while lowered on a line from a boat. Some Florida waters can not be most inviting divesites due to the amoeba bloom, gators and other things. Submerged springs and cave systems however still can be down there and we want to find them.
DIY. Fixing the 6 cuft argon bottle on a backplate using nylon loop and a bungee (optionally 2 bungees). See also a different way of doing it here. Halcyon and Dive Rite harness may look nicer but doesn't "bang for the buck"
DIY cam housing. Avoid cracks in Lexan window plate by using a different design.
ARY DIY rotary shaft seal for the underwater camera housing. Important here is to order proper size o-ring and lock washers. Bolt material must be soft enough otherwise you may break the drill bit. Try to use higher rpm so the shaft comes out smooth.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. Threw away the spring and cut 8mm of 1" pvc as a spacer.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. Glued w/Goop PVC spacer to CR2 module.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. Connected by soldering negative terminals w/wire.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. Soldered connection.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. Wire is flexible. Notice that original polarity of the batteries was reversed.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. Done.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED. No comparison to HID but brighter than original bulb, and it also gained some weird 5 mode programmed modes.
Upgrading SL4 to CR2 LED compare to Photon Torpedo (AFAIK LED Scout is in the same category). On the picture I see no difference, in reality the left spot a little bit brighter (it is CR2)
