Visiting a Hindu temple in Ranikhet, India. NOLS India is based in the town and we spent a few days here making final gear/food/equipment preparation for our trip. Shoes off to enter the temple. (Ranikhet, Uttarakhand, India. September)
Morning mist from NOLS India. (Ranikhet, Uttarakhand, India. September.)
My first glimpse of the Himalayas from NOLS India. (Ranikhet, Uttarakhand, India. September.)
Chai shop in the foothills of the Himalayas. This was our first camp, in the small village of Dwali, sandwiched between mountains, forest, and fog. (Dwali, Uttarakhand, India. September.)
Loading the pack donkeys in Dwali with mountaineering equipment: plastic boots, crampons, ice axes, and ropes. (Dwali, Uttarakhand, India. September.)
Rope team descending after shuttling a load to a higher camp. We were following the practice of "climb high, sleep low" to acclimatize ourselves to the 17,000ft. + camping. (Glacier, near Nanda Kot and Nanda Devi, India. September)
Rope team on the move. (Northern Uttarakhand, India. October.)
View from the first of our high passes: 17,600 ft. (Northern Uttarakhand, India. October)
Sunset lighting fire on India's highest peak: Nanda Devi (26, 543ft). (Uttarakhand, India. October)
High Himalayan ridges. (Northern Uttarakhand, near India-Tibet border. October)
Bells hanging and ringing in the wind from a Hindu temple in Martoli, the first town we entered after leaving the glacier. Each bell signifies a wish or desire that came true. We hung a NOLS bell (gold, third in from the left) to commemorate our completed expedition. (Martoli, Uttarakhand, India. October)
Outside our hotel in Ranikhet. (Photo courtesy of Adrian) (Raniket, India. October)
Tibetan Buddhist monks lining the streets preparing for the arrival of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. (McLead Ganj, India. October)
I was very fortunate to just happen to visit the tiny hill station of McLead Ganj the same day that the Dalai Lama was coming into town. He resides there when he is not traveling. This morning, when we went to eat breakfast, we wondered why there were so many people in the streets! It was a welcoming ceremony for His Holiness. In McLeod Ganj (near Dharamshala) there are many Tibetan refugees, exiled from their home country. (India, October).
Donkey train crossing the Marsyangdi Nadi River. (Annapurna Circuit, Nepal. October)
Tibetan Buddhist entrance chorten to Tal. (Nepal, October)
"Shower time" - we each inched our way under this waterfall and got pounded from above. It felt like coconuts cracking on your head. Hana lasted the longest...5 seconds. (Tal, Nepal. October)
Nepalese granddaughter and grandmother along the Annapurna Circuit. (Dharapani, Nepal. October)
Crisscrossed prayer flags near Danakyu. (Annapurna Circuit, Nepal. October)
The Paungda Danda, locally referred to as Swarga Dwar. It rises more than 5000 feet from the river floor. The local people believe that the spirits of the deceased must ascend the wall after leaving their bodies. (near Upper Pisang, Nepal. October)
Upper Pisang in the morning light, the smoke from fires catching the sun's early rays. (Upper Pisang, Nepal. October)
Hiking up to Thorung Phedi - last night before crossing the pass. The trail we came up on is snaking to the left, following the river up. (near Thorung Phedi, Nepal. October)
Buddies! Hana and I at the Thorong La Pass - 17,769ft. (Nepal, October)
Farmers' fields in the high Himalayan Fall. (between Muktinath and Kagbeni. October)
The one, the only, YAK DONALDS! (Kagbeni, Nepal. October)
View of Dhaulagiri - the 7th highest mountain in the world - 26,795ft. (Nepal. November)
Watching the first light of the day illuminate the Annapurna Mountain Range from Poon Hill. (Nepal, November)
Annapurna South as seen from the Annapurna Base Camp. (Nepal, November)
Machhapuchare framed by prayer flags. (Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal. November)
Machapuchare, the sacred and unclimbed "Fish Tail Mountain" (22,943 ft.) as viewed from the Annapurna Basecamp at sunset. (Nepal. November)
Dance of morning clouds and sun from the Annapurna Sanctuary. (Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal. November)
View of Dunbar Square, the oldest part of Kathmandu. (Nepal, November)
Street market in Kathmandu. (Nepal, November)
Platforms for cremations to take place at Pashupatinath Temple. The Bagmati River here functions in the same way that the Ganges River functions in Varanasi, India. In addition to facilitating cremations, it is also a holy pilgrimage site for Hindus. (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
Festival day at the Pashupatinath temple - a holy site for the Hindus in Kathmandu. It is the biggest temple of Lord Shiva (also called Pashupati) and the oldest temple in Kathmandu (built around the 5th century). It's listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
Festival scenes. (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
Quiet in the midst of chaos. This holy man has carved out a quite space for himself amidst the throwing of marigold flowers, handfuls of seeds, and the chanting of thousands of devotees. (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
Boudhanath Stupa (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
The "benevolent eyes" of the all-seeing Buddha of the Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu. The stupa is absolutely gigantic, and was built in the 14th century. (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
Tibetan monks inside the Swayambhunath Stupa. (Kathmandu, Nepal. November)
View of a side street around Khao San Road from my hostel. Khao San Road is "backpacker central" in Bangkok. This photo only gives a taste of the overwhelming number of vendors and foreign travelers that occupy this part of town. (Bangkok, Thailand. November)
Part of a mural on the wall at Wat Pho. (Bangkok, Thailand. November)
In Ayuthaya, at my guesthouse. About 1.5hrs north of Bangkok. I became friends with the owner, who is also a grandmother, of the house. She and her family cooked great pad thai and I enjoyed talking to "granny" and learning a few more Thai phrases. (Ayuthaya, Thailand. November)
Cooking class in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Learning how to make my favorite...pad thai. (Chiang Mai, Thailand. November)
Buddhist temple complex in the ancient Thai capital, Sukhothai. (Sukhothai, Thailand. November)
Thai monks amidst the Sukhothai ruins. (Sukhothai, Thailand. November)
A group of Thai students who wanted their picture with me. To understand this photo, you must also listen closely for the high pitched giggles of young girls while the photo was being taken. (Sukhothai, Thailand. November)
Rows of Buddhas in Sukhothai. After even a week in Thaiand, I felt that I saw Buddha, Buddha everywhere... (Sukhothai, Thailand. November)
Sunset on Sukhothai ruins. (Sukhothai, Thailand. November)
Natural poinsettia flowers, looking down on the S-shaped Northern Thai city of Mae Salong. (Mae Salong, Thailand. November)
Gas station in rural Northern Thailand. (Mae Salong, Thailand. November)
Smoke from a local stove coming through the trees in spectacular rays. (Mae Sai, Thailand. December)
Looking into Burma from a temple on the Thai-Burma border. (Mae Sai, Thailand. December)
At the Golden Triangle - Thailand, Laos, Burma/Myanmar confluence - with the mighty Mekong River in the background. This area has been one of the highest opium and heroin producing areas in all of Asia. (Chiang Sean, Thailand. December)
Field worker in Northern Thailand. (near Chiang Rai, Thailand. December)
The Plain of Jars outside of Phonsavan. Archaeologists believe that the jars were used 1,500–2,000 years ago, but they aren't certain. Experts also have theorized that the jars may have been used as funeral urns or perhaps storage for food, but again, no one knows...it's a mystery. (Phonsavan, Laos. December)
Inside my guesthouse in Phonsavan. (Laos, December)
Young Hmong girls participating in a "courting ritual." After the harvest was in from the fields, all the young people dress up in traditional dress and play a game of sorts. My understanding is that the "game" was a means for small talk and hanging out. The game consists of throwing a tennis ball back and forth. It is a chance for the young men and women to converse and get to know each other more. (near Phonsavan, Laos. December)
Large river boats as seen while floating down the Mekong River in Laos. (somewhere, Mekong River, Laos. December)
Wall and flowering trees in Luang Prabang; Laos' old capital, and a beautiful, tranquil city. (Luang Prabang, Laos. December)
Kuang Si pools and waterfalls about 35km outside of Luang Prabang. (Laos, December)
Waterfall near Kuang Si pools (Luang Prabang, Laos. December)
Cycling with kids in Laos. On day 3 of a 7 day, 500 mile bike ride on old touring bikes purchased in Luang Prabang. I met a crazy French guy - only as crazy as me - and when I proposed the idea to cycle to Cambodia, he said yes. It was a fantastic week on a bike, and the best way, I believe, that I could have experienced rural Laos and the kind-hearted people there. (somewhere Laos. December)
Taking the bikes down to the river for their final river crossing. (to Don Det, Laos. December)
On Don Khon Island. Tired and happy after many days on the road. It was an excellent, random trip full of lots of laughter, hot sun, and time to contemplate life while on the open road. My cycling partner, Fabian, and I. (Laos, December)
Child fishermen on Don Khon Island in the midst of the Mekong River near the Cambodian border. (Don Khon, Laos. December)
Children, boat, and sunset. (Don Khon Island, Laos. December)
Intricate stone work, Angkor Wat Temple. (Siem Reap, Cambodia. December)
Mural at the Angkor Wat temple complex. (Siem Reap, Cambodia. December)
Another part of the same mural at the Angkor Wat temple complex. (Siem Reap, Cambodia. December)
Classic morning photograph of the Angkor Wat Temple. This Hindu temple was build in the 12th century, was once the capital city of the region. (Siem Reap, Cambodia. December)
Christmas in Thailand - at the Bangkok airport on December 22nd - with my life in a backpack and still very happy traveling. Getting ready to fly back to India. (Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bangkok, Thailand. December)
Hanging out in Goa with Kavier, Hana, and Kuttss. Xavier's mom was generous enough to allow Hana and I to borrow her sarees so we could go wedding crashing. It might have been the most memorable night of the entire trip: watching Hana's jaw drop as the funky chicken started to play during the reception, shaking colorful bangles, and being the two random non-Indians at a traditional Goan Christian wedding. It was good fun. (Goa, India. December)
Church corridors in Old Goa. (Goa, India. December)
Door of a cathedral in Old Goa. (Goa, India. December)
Cute kids drinking tender coconut (Indians swear it is ful of good nutrients for your body) drinking the coconut water next to a roadside stand in Goa. (Goa, India. December)
Friends Kuttss and Xavier enjoying Goa's superb beaches and the last light of the day. Thanks to Xavier, we went to the beaches off of the tourist trail, as he is a Goan native. (India. January)
Xavier's mom, by the front gate, watching the village "sports day." (Goa, India. January)
Dinner table set at Xavier's house in Goa. Delicious curries, rice, and local Goan port wine. What's missing? Well, silverware! Then again, it IS India where food has flavor and texture. (Goa, India. January)
Little girl hanging out at the village "sport days" on New Years Day. (Goa, India. January)
Riding forward, looking back. Boy on a bicycle in the state of Kerala in South India. (Kerala, India. January)
Along the famous backwaters of Kerala. (Kerala, India. January)
Deep sea fishing boats along the Kerala backwaters. The boats have extremely curved hulls to ride out big waves. The eyes are believed to help the boats avoid danger; without them she would be like a blind man blundering into danger with every step he takes. (Kerala, India. January)
Ducks? Ducks. Ducks! I don't know why. But someone released hundreds or thousands of ducks into the Kerala backwaters. (Kerala, India. January)
Fish, shrimp, octopus, squid make up a colorful sidewalk seafood market in Cochin. (Fort Kochi, India. January)
Sunset along the Arabian Sea. (Fort Kochi, India. January)
Women walking to a Kerala sunset. (Kerala, India. January)
Looking down from the Mahatma Gandhi Memorial in Kanyakumari on Hindu Pilgrims after watching the sun set into the ocean. Kanyakumari is the Southernmost tip of India, at the confluence of the Arabian Sea, the Indian Ocean, and the Bay of Bengal. (Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, India. January)
Meenakshi Amman Temple in Madurai. Holy Hindu temple, dedicated to the Lord Shiva. (Madurai, Tamil Nadu, India. January)
Stumbling onto a fantastic dance performance during Pongal, a Hindu festival, in Pondicherry. The dance company mixed modern and traditional Indian dance for an incredible performance. (Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu, India. January)
Palermo: Old, colorful neighborhood of Buenos Aires. (Argentina, January)
The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo is a a human rights organization of Argentine women. For over three decades, the Mothers have fought for the right to re-unite with their children. In protests, they wear white head scarves with their children's names embroidered. They still gather every Thursday afternoon for a half hour walk around the plaza.
Me hiking out of the snow. (Refugio Frey, near Bariloche, Argentina. February)
Camping at Refugio Frey in the Nahuel Huapi National Park. It was my first attempt at camping in Patagonia. Haha. Training for the absurd weather down here! :) (Refugio Frey, near Bariloche, Argentina. February)
My tent set up in a campground in El Bolson. (El Bolson, Argentina. February)
New friends from all over. Sophie (France) and Oren (Isreal). I didn't know it at the time, but we would all end up spending the better part of 3 weeks together. (Campmento de Agostini. Chalten, Argentina. February)
Cerro Torre...3,128 meters (10,280 ft). It is easy to believe why it was once considered the world´s most difficult mountain (howerver, not anymore). The mountain is constantly being blasted by wind, snow, and ice. The first undisputed ascent was completed in 1974. Cerro Torre was also featured in a movie by Werner Herzog called "Scream of Stone." The peak is truly beautiful. (El Chalten, Argentina. February)
First views of Fitz Roy, 3,375 meters (11,073 feet). To truly appreciate the fact that you are actaully seeing the mountain in this picture, you must know that we met people who camped out in the park for four days or more, trying to get a clear glimpse of the moutain. There were also climbers waiting nearly a month for good enough weather to attempt an asecent of Fitz Roy. (near El Chalten, Argentina. February)
Smiling big because I got to see the Fitz Roy! (Chalten, Argentina. February)
First glimpse of Glaciar Perito Moreno. (Calafate, Argentina. February)
Glaciar Perito Moreno is outstanding to view in person, as there is the continual cracking and splashing as small and large chunks of ice fall into the lake. The glacier juts out 74 meters above the water; it is one of the few glaciers in the world that is currently growing, not retreating. (Calafate, Argentina. February)
Hitchhiking to Ushuaia, the "End of the World." (Rio Gallegos, Argentina. February)
Adventures of hitchhiking in in Argentina. Traveling with Hugo in the camion (big truck) was great. We listened to cumbia music really loud, stopped to make coffee and mate, and laugh about life. We also crossed two international borders (Argentina into Chile, and then Chile back into Argentina). (Patagonia, February)
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. Land of Fire. At the end of the world, and loving it. (Tierra del Fuego near Ushuaia, Argentina. February)
Wahoo! At the end of Route #3, the end of a southward journey to Tierra del Fuego. Hanging out with people from France, Canada, Brasil, and Argentina.
Viewing of Las Torres upon arriving at the entrance of the Torres del Paine National Park. (Torres del Paine, Chile. February)
The Torres at "sunrise" - I went up early hoping to catch the first pink rays of sun. No luck, but the rocks are magnificent, regardless. Incidentally, it was near here that I was camping when the giant earthquake in Chile occurred this year. (Torres del Paine Circuit, Chile. February)
Seeing the backside of the Las Torres formation. (Torres del Paine Circuit, Chile. February)
Mountain and glaciers seen from the Torres del Paine Circuit. (Chile, February)
Arriving at Campmento Dickson, surrounded by Lago Dickson. (Torres del Paine Circuit, Chile. March)
Admiring Glacier Grey, 17km of glacier. It was hard to take my eyes of off it while walking. I kept stopping to take it all in. (Torres del Paine Circuit, Chile. March)
Final light on the Glaciar; a great day, and a great ending. (Torres del Paine Circuit, Chile. March)
In Valle Frances, surveying the national park. (Torres del Paine Circuit, Chile. March)
Partial view of Los Cuernos through low clouds. (Torres del Paine, Chile. March)
Las Torres Hotel with the hotel horses in the foreground. (Torres del Paine. March)
Me with a sign I made while volunteering for 3 weeks in Torres del Paine National Park. While I worked on the sign (and several others) with another girl from France, I did all of the letter-work and engraving. It was fun to see the final product in the ground. (Torres del Paine. March)
Rainbow over Las Torres at sunrise. No traffic jams here! Sorry Los Angeles. This was my morning "commute" from where I slept to where I worked during my 3 weeks of volunteering at the National Park. (Torres del Paine, Chile. March)
On the road between Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas, near Torres del Paine. The beautiful open spaces are just begging to be explored by horseback. (Patagonia, Chile. April)
On the famed Carretera Austral (Southern Highway) of Chile, on my way to Cochrane. Most of the Carretera Austral is unpaved, gravel bumpiness. But it passes through some absolutely gorgeous scenery, looping around clear-blue lakes and weaving through glacier-crested mountains. (Carratera Austral, Chile. April)
During my 10 day NOLS WFR (Wilderness First Responder) course in Santiago, Chile I was a patient in a plane crash with a punctured lung. My coursemates are attending me while a scream and hyperventilate for over an hour. Good fun acting...but it would be a very different story in person. (Photo courtesy of Rodrigo Fica) (Santiago, Chile. April)
Church of San Pedro de Atacama from the 1600's. (San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. April)
Laguna Cejar in the Salar de Atacama (Salt Flats); these salt flats are the 3rd largest in the world. (San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. April)
On a horseback ride near San Pedro de Atacama. (Chile, April)
The Cordillera de la Sal (Salt Mountains) below and behind me. In the distance, is the driest place on earth - it rains once every few years. (San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. April)