This photo sequence is a step-by-step build of the Plafit SLP2 chassis for a BRM Porsche 956/962C body. It is very much directed at the first time builder and will definitely be a little tedious and overstated for the experienced model car builder. However I get a lot of mail from guys that are building their first one . . . so here we go. If any of the Pros are listening and I missed something . . . well piss off . . . no seriously, please drop me a line and set me straight. I've built a couple of cars for the top guns, but I have yet to cross the line ahead of them. Here's hoping! Cheers. Mark.
Here is a new, in the bag PLAFIT PF1800 KSLP or what is commonly referred to as the SLP2 chassis. Although the completed chassis shown above is fitted with a Fox motor, the 1800KSLP kits comes with a baseplate and motor brackets for the Bison 18v motor that is widely used in Germany but does not have a following in America. There is an SLP2 kit for the smaller Fox, Cheetah, Falcon motor with the corresonding motor mounts . . . more on that later.
Unpacked you will find the base plate and 3 bags of parts in the SLP2 kit.
Bag 1. The 3mm aluminium axle spacers that come with the kit. The flat washers can also be used to shim the Spring Plate and Body Mounts, more on that later.
Bag 2. The nuts, bolts, washers and springs that come with the SLP2 kit. Always best to keep this parts in a small bowl.
Bag 3. Here we have all the chassis parts that come with the SLP2 kit.
And finally the brass SLP2 base plate. You see I have it on a flat marble surface to check to see how flat it is. These parts are metal stamped and sometimes they need to be trued up a bit. It's all about how well you want the car to run. A little bit here, a little bit there and when it's all together it's either great or not so great. The initial prep work has a lot to do with it.
After making sure the base plate is completely flat, I use some 600 grit wet/dry and a hard rubber square pad to flat sand both sides and remove any burrs or bumps left behind form the metal stamping . . . especially around the countersinking of the holes.
Same flat sand for the aluminim Spring Plate.
Don't try to flatten these parts by hand as the aluminium bends too easily and once you put a kink in it :( A precision toolmakers vice is one of your best shop investments, with flat ground smooth jaw faces, and can be used to safely flatten the chassis plates and pieces.
Same routing if you need to flatten the Spring Plate.
All the chassis parts after they have been checked for flatness, trued up where necessary, flat sanded and the edges deburred as well.
It wouldn't be a model car without some modification. The front spur or track of the stock SLP2 chassis is just a little too wide to fit under a BRM Porsche 956/962C body . . . that's how I found it using the Scaleauto 25.5mm OD front wheels. So we need to narrow up the Spring Plate a little on each side so that the front wheels don't bind. Step 1. Use a Sharpie marker to blacken a strip on each side as shown.
Then use a straight edge rule to scribe a horizontal line flush with the top of each of the ears or u-shapes on each side of the Spring Plate
Then scribe a second line from the far corner of the u-shape (top left) to the far corner on the right.
This will mark a small triangle that is approx. 1/8 inch or 3mm at it's base.
You can see the material you are going to remove again here in this photo.
A lot of different ways to remove the notch. Dremel. Bench grinder with an Aluminum wheel. But the tool maker in me prefers to take the time with a small square pattern file and the spring plate held firmly in a vice so that the jaws stop me from filing to close to the U-shaped ears or tabs. Yes it is a little slower but that also means there is less chance of screwing it up. Open a cold beer and enjoy 20-30 minutes of simple filing. You know they say this stuff is good for the mind as the years go on.
On side finished. Check the beer to see if I need another quick trip to the fridge before I do the other side. See what I mean about using the jaws of the vice as a stop for the short face of the notch that extends the ears or u-shape. Don't want to thin down this tab as it takes the spring pressure when it is assembled. Otherwise the material that you have removed does not weaken the part in any way.
On more look before we do the other side.
And away we go.
My beer is finished and so is the little mod to both sides of the Spring Plate.
A quick flat sand to remove the Sharpie ink and remove any burrs left over from the pattern file.
This is a good time to gently remove any burrs from the inside of the two ears on the Spring Plate. This will help to smooth out the movement of the chassis when it is fully assembled. I am using 400 wet/dry here so don't take a Dremel to this or you will remove too much material and you will spoil the part.
A happy Spring Plate :) Think I will send a production change order to PLAFIT for the future. If any of the small producers are making a carbon replacement part I would make this small change in your setup.
The modified Spring Plate overlaid on the original to show the surgery.
Before we leave the flat plate, the base of the front and rear axle uprights should also be cleaned up to remove any burrs from the drilling and tapping operation so that they fit nice and flat when they are mounted. You can actually see the slight burr on the face of the large bearing hole.
And the same for the motor mounting brackets that need to sit nice and flat on the base plate too.
Roll the 400-600 wet/dry into a small cone and gently take the burr of both faces of the large bearing hole. This will also make it much easier to press in the ball bearing with you fingers.
This is one of the front bearing holders and the ball bearing has just about been pushed in flush with the face of the holder. A very small amount of Locktite blue or similar can be used to secure the bearing if you like but be careful not to put it near the bearing seals. Often times it is not necessary as it is a relatively snug fit. Your choice.
Same with the two rear bearing holders.
We are about to start assembling the chassis, so if you haven't done it already . . . it's time to sort all of the chassis screws and springs etc. Take your time some look almost the same except they have flat heads vs countersunk heads. Some of the flat heads are also bigger than others for a reason. And do this in something that will catch everything in case these little buggers decide to go AWOL when you are not looking :)
Short countersunk, philips head screws . . .
Long countersunk, philips head screws . . .
Short round or flat, philips head screws . . .
The long round or flat, philips head screws that come in the kit . . .
The long chassis spacers that come in the kit. These have a 2mm ID and a 3mm OD . . . not to be confused with the aluminum axle spacers that are in the other bag.
The short 2mm ID - 3mm OD chassis spacers that come in the kit. Now let's get back to building . . .
We are going to start with front sub-assembly of the Sping Plate, Front Bearing holders and the Guide holder. This is the top view looking forward. The front bearing holders have a front and a back and should look as though they are leaning forward a little.
If you flip the Spring Plate over you can see that each bearing holder takes two countersunk head screws and two flat washers. There are actually four threaded holes in each bearing holder . . . so stagger the two screws as shown with the outer screw on each side forward. BUT KEEP THE SCREWS LOOSE AT THIS POINT SO THAT THE BEARING HOLDERS CAN FRELLY SLIDE FORE AND AFT IN THE SLOTS SHOWN.
Now take the long front 3mm axle that comes with the kit and install it in the bearings to align the two holders.
Now gently slide the two axle holders and the axle forward as far as possible and gently start to tighten up the four screws in rotation so that the bearing holders stay aligned and the axle spins freely. This may take one or two attempts. The ball bearing s that come with the kit are flanged and will rotate more freely as the car is run in and the shields seat themselves. Some racers will even 'run in' the bearings using a Dremel to speed up the process prior to a competition TC.
Now we can move to the back and install the rear bearing holders. Again keep them loose on on first assembly.
Again we have two screws per bearing holder and it is made a little simpler because there are only four holes in total in the base place.
Slide in the short rear axle to align the bearing holders and then slowly tighten each screw in rotation while checking to see that the axle keeps spinning freely.
Now were are going to attached the guide holder to the aluminium T bracket with four of the flat or button head screws as shown. Just need to snug them up a bit at this stage as they will get adjusted and tighted at final setup.
A quick pic of this side to show you how far the screws go through to the other side in case you put in the wrong ones or got them mixed up. Remember to go easy. The screws are hardened steel and the plates are aluminum so it doesn't take a lot of force to strip the threads and it should require that much force to fit these parts.
Now its time to attach the guide holder assembly to the spring plate assembly . . . top view and then over . . .
. . . the guild holder assembly is attached to the spring plate with two round head screws and washers . . . just below the two inner screws that secure the front bearing mounts.
The next step is to attached the complete spring plate and front wheel assemblies to the base plate. These are the screws, nuts, washers, springs and spacers that you will use . . .
There are three holes in the front area of the base plate to mount the front assembly. Put the screws through the holes face up on a flat surface . . .
Next put one of the aluminum spacers over each of the three protruding screws as shown . . .
Zooming in on one of the three so we get it all right . . . aluminum spacer in place . . .
ditto for the other two . . . and then put the front end assembly in place as shown. Hey kind of like the rear end on the Audi R10 . . . apparently the whole thing can be swapped out in less than 20 minutes.
One of the spring plate cutouts in position . . .
Drop the spring over the spacer . . .
Then one of the split lock washers and nuts . . .
Best done with a nut driver or small socket . . . you can tighten the hole thing down. You can finger fit all three of them first and then do the final lock down. Tight . . . but don't reef the crap out of it.
Now you can see how the whole thing works and the chassis moves. And the basic handling principles apply. The kit comes with a medium weight spring. One step lighter and one step firmer are available. All other things being equal . . . one of the was to increase grip is to use a softer spring . . . or if you have to much grip you can go to a harder spring. Tire width, track width, weight distribution, wheelbase . . . all the other things that play on grip as most racers know.
So far so good. On to the body mount assembly . . .
Here are the nuts, bolts, spacers and screws that are coming up next.
First two of the round head philips screws in each of two aluminum mounting strips as shown . . .
This will make more sense down the road . . . but you can see how the body mounting strip slides into the slots on the chassie mounting strips. It's a slot so that when they are eventually attached to the body, the body can be sprung open a little and popped of the chassis. As I said . . . it will make more sense later.
Now, two screws from the previous photo into the chassis holes on both sides of the chassis . . . four in total.
let's get a little closer . . .
. . . and tighten it up. This can be done with a little wrench or a 4,0mm nut driver . . . but I wouldn't go at it with vice grips ;(
Looking good . . .
Put the aluminum spacer in place. Note. If all of your axle spacers and nuts and bolts have go mixed up for some reason or if you kids thought they were really kool to play with . . . . . . the chassis spacers have a smaller 2mm hole and the axle spacers have a 3mm hole . . . so that you can do a quick sort. You can also see in this photo the orientation of the body mounting strips with the slot facing OUT before you put them in place as shown in the next photo . . .
There we go . . .
. . . then put a split lock washer in place . . .
. . . and button it all down with one of the aluminum Nylock type nuts to keep it all together.
With the body mounting assemblies in place, turn the chassis over and you will notice four clearance holes that will enable you to reach the philips screws with a driver . . . better explained in the next photo . . .
. . . back off each of the two screws a half turn or so that are part of the body mounting assembly . . . and you will be able to slide out the perforated aluminum strip that will eventually be attached to the body. This is how the body frees itself from the chassis. Pretty clever eh? It's pretty much the same principle that is used for all 'hard body' or model car configurations from Plafit, Scholer, Momo, MSC, etc. etc.
. . . from the top . . .
. . . as as explained with the screws loosed the body mounting strips can slide out to the side . . . which is why those other strips MUST be oriented with slots facing out on each side.
So here we are . . . with both of the body mounting assemblies attached to the base plate. You will notice that the body mounting assemblies have clearance that will give the body some 'play' when it is all put together.
Next step is to install the stops for the spring plate. You can see that these are flat head philips and the two small dark springs that come in the kit.
The springs slide over the screws and act as retainers so that the screws keep their setting and no back off from vibration etc.
And each one installs at the very front of each of the body mounting assemblies.
As you turn it clockwise it lifts the body mounting plate and simultaneously limits the travel of the spring plate. Now that you know how it works . . . wind it back so that the two plates are just touching as shown in the next photo . . .
The screws are adjusted so that they just start to engage the body mounting strip.
See what happens now . . . also very clever. As the spring plate is activated it can in turn lift the body mounting strip. What this means is that when the front wheel lifts on a corner is can also left the front corner of the body at the same time in a fluid motion rather than having the front wheel contact the wheel arch if there is a close fit between the two. The adjustment is to control the amount of activitation in this situation as well as to provide a minor adjustment of the body height. It will be even clearer once we have the body in place to setup and fine tune.
Well let's get going with the drive train. Here's a 46T M50 pitch Scaleauto spur gear that we will use for the basic setup. The pinion on the 18v Bison motor that we are coming to will be fitted with a 14T pinion. This is the ration that most of the guys ran on the 'Monster' at Mid America Raceway in Chicago for the 2008 Panam Plafit Championship.
The Bison motor mounts that come with the SLP2 kit . . . and the BISON motor that does NOT come with the kit. More on motor and motor bracket options to come so stay tuned.
The kit comes with two flat head screws for mounting a BISON motor and two socket head cap screws that can be used for any type of motor brackets.
There are two button or flat head philips type screws that come with the kit for attaching the motor backet to the Bison motor. You will notice that these screws are a larger thread than all the other screws in the kit.
There are also to socket head cap screws in the supplied in the kit. One is for the motor bracket on the drive side and the other is for the motor bracket on the end bell side. Don't forget to use a split lock washer with each. Also, we are not at the setup stage these only need to be snugged up at this stage of the build so don't put the gorilla grip on it.
The other socket head cap screw with split lock washer for mounting the end bell bracket to the Bison motor.
Both brackets should be used to keep the body of the motor parallel to the rear axle for the best gear mesh. Everything here is just slightly snugged up as we still have to set up the rear wheel clearance etc. before the final setup of the gear mesh and full tighten.
Here is what I have left in my screw, washer and spring bowl. Looks like they gave me an extra spring and two extra washers.
Now I'm looking at the bowl with the 3mm axle spacers and 3mm washers that came with the kit.
Well, looking pretty good so far. Time to mount some rubber.
Mounting and grinding tires is not up my list of favorite past times, and the Scaleauto ProComp 3 RTR rears at 27.5mm OD x 13mm wide have become the defacto 'handout' for international competition. Great tire! The fronts are also Scaleauto Hardcomp RTR at 25.5mm OD x 8mm wide. Both share a 20mm inside dimension on the wheel rim and standard 3mm axle.
You can see that I have also coated and polished the front wheels with crazy glue to reduce grip contact with the track as it rubbers up. I did a quick flat sand to each end of the 2mm wide aluminum spacers that I used on each side of the front wheel mounting. You can see now the minimal clearance between the wheel and the spring plate and why it was necessary to notch it back a bit for clearance.
Both front wheels mounted and backed off just enough so that they are spinning freely before the final tighten of the wheel screws.
Rear wheels mounted with the 3mm axle spacers. Don't forget to give them a slight flat sand on each end with 400-600 wet/dry to remove any burrs and ensure that they seat nice and flat with the bearings and wheel bosses.
Important next step. Back off the motor so that the pinion is free of the spur gear. Now adjust the wheel spacing so that the assembly spins freely without any left to right slop or play in the axle. When you have it perfect, snug up the rear wheel screws and move the motor back into position so that the pinion meshes with the spur gear.
The mesh between the pinion and the spur gear should not be too tight. If it is too tight you are putting unnecessary stain on the motor that will cause it to heat up, slow it down and possible fail. If it is too loose, it will be noisy on the track and the lack of full contact will wear out the teeth on the spur gear. Ideally there should be enough movement between the spur and the pinion that you can just barely feel it with your fingers. However, the gears are never perfectly round so you will need to do this check at a few different rotations to make sure it is not binding up anywhere. You can spend a bit of time here but in the end, a quiet car is usually a happy and fast car.
The chassis fully assembled and looking good.
Another look from the front. Time to mount the guide and lead wires.
Bottom side.
You can see that the motor is sitting parallel and flush with the bottom of the base plate. The spur gear is positioned in the slot so it does not contact the base plate when it rotates. All of the screws are sitting correctly in their countersunk holes and below the surface of the base plate.
Turn it back over on the tech plate.
And overlay the body for the first time to see how it looks. Now it's getting fun!
Business is business, but as a slot racer you have to thank BRM for producing these great cars. They are really well done, the painting and graphics are superb . . . and lets hope they make more of the liveries!
Before we get into the mounting of the body, I want to digress a bit and take a look at other motors and mounts. The SLP2 as shown is for the 18v Bison motor that is not used in North America. A version of the SLP2 has just been released with a smaller motor hole in the base plate and the corresponding motor mounts for the Fox, Falcon and Cheetah type Mabuchi motors. I will update this SLP2 'How To' when they arrive. In the meantime I will show you an aftermarket motor mount kit from WERKE that essentially does the same thing. One bracket on the drive side and one bracket for the end bell side. Both CNC machined out of billet aluminum for accuracy and strength.
Here is the new Plafit Fox II motor. Talk to the guys in Australia and it's the motor for model car racing. At approx. 26,000 rpm it has enough speed for these cars with spreading broken body parts all over your track. One of things that I like is that the can is marked with a Plafit Fox II stamp on one side . . .
. . . and stamped with a production batch number on the other side. A nice consideration if you are running a competition as the first step would be to make sure that all of the motors come from the same production batch. The other good thing is that there are a lot of these Mabuchi motors in different configurations and with different branding . . . and these markings are the best way to ensure that everyone at the track is running the same motor :)
You can see that the motor brackets offset the motor so that it is flush with the bottom of the base plate. The clearance holes for the mounting screws allow a little rotation to make sure the motor is also parallel with the base plate. You can see I am a little off parallel here but I will wait until the motor is mounted to the chassis to do the final alignment.
Two socket head cap screws to mount the bracket on the drive side. You can see that I have not used any split lock washers. It is a good idea but you need to make sure that your screws are long enough to properly engage the motor. From my days as a toolmaker, the minimum thread engagement in steel was minimu 1x the diameter and 2x the diameter in aluminum. This is a 2mm OD screw so I want a bare minimum of 2mm of screw in to the motor can. But don't use too long a screw or you make contact the armature. You can check it by carefully rotating the motor shaft with you fingers if you are using longer screws.
One socket head cap screw and split lock washer to secure the end bell motor bracket to the chassis. The bracket is a nice slide fit on to the end bell and doesn't use a screw.
One cap screw and split lock washer on the drive side . . .
As with the Bison motor setup, you want the motor to sit parallel with the rear axle for the best gear mesh and also to make sure that both motor brackets are working properly. This looks pretty good but it is a little out on the end bell side so I will back it off a just a bit to get it right.
And from the bottom side to make sure that the bottom of the motor is completely parallel with the bottom of the base plate so that it does not impact on my minimum ride height that will be confirmed at TC.
And lets take a look at another similar mount for the PROSLOT PS4000 motor. This uses the same bracket on the drive side as made by WERKE and a different bracket with a large end bell hole from SLOTFABRIK. Both machined out of billet aluminum for accuracy and strength. The PS4000 motor was designed by PROSLOT specifically for model car racing and a number of top European pros participated in teh development. It has been very well received and was used in it's COMPETITION version for the 2008 and 2009 IMCA Worlds, the 2009 EEC and the 2009 Toronto Worlds. Approx. 26,000 rpm with very good breaking and torque. The COMP version comes with a ball bearing on the drive side rather than the bronze bearing shown in this photo and also a hand wound American armature and double sealed.
Bracket mounted on the drive side. Don't use excessive force on the mounting screws with any of these motors as the thread engagement is limited.
Again, the bracket offsets the motor flush with the bottom of the base plate and make sure the motor is parallel to the base plate when doing the final install. You can see it is a little high on the left side in this photo so I will adjust it slightly now and do the final check when it is assembled.
Fit the other motor bracket to the end bell and fix with a socket head cap screw and split lock washer to keep it in place during the race.
Something else that is VERY important to check with the Proslot motor. This motor has a polymer or plastic end bell. Make sure that after you attach the motor bracket on the drive side that the motor is parallel to the base plate. You can see in this photo that the end bell bracket is just slightly above the base plate. Touch is better but what I have here is OK. If it is out of square and you tighten the bracket down with the cap screw, it will pull on the end bell and the motor and potentially flex the armature and the motor will either fail or it will run poorly. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT CHECK. If the motor is sitting at an angle, check the alignment of the motor bracket on the drive side. Perhaps it is not sitting properly or there is a little excess solder around the ball bearing that is not letting it seat fully. If you have checked everything and it is still not as square it should be, I would recommend not using the end bell bracket rather than distorting the motor can and poor performance.
End bell motor bracket secured with a 2mm socket head cap screw and split lock washer. Make sure that the screw is the correct length and does not extend below the bottom surface of the base plate as this will become the lowest point of ride height during technical control . . . or cause damage to the track during practice.
As described before with the original Bison motor assembly. Back off the pinion from the spur gear to set the rear axle assembly to spin freely without any excessive left to right play.
Last check on the bottom side that everything is flush, true and sitting where it should be.
And before we leave motors and motor brackets. A quick shot of a single MOMO motor bracket and a FOX 10 motor as an alternative setup that is also used with the SLP2.
Before we move on to mounting the body. We need to take a look at ride height or clearance. With the stock kit of parts and the Scaleauto RTR Rear (27.5mm OD) and Front (25.5mm OD) we will end up with a clearance of 2.0mm when measured on tech block.
You can see the 2.0mm clearance here when viewed from the side just in front of the rear wheels . . .
. . . and again on from the side just behind the front wheels . . .
. . . and at the front of the chassis plate with all four wheels contacting the tech block.
On the Plafit SLP2 chassis (as well as the SLP1 and 1700G chassis) the bearing holders are fixed in height. Plafit makes these aluminum holders different heights in 0.5mm increments in order to accomodate different tire diameters and ground clearance. Here is the basic principle. If you use a taller bearing holder, you are moving the axle up or away from the baseplate which in turn will reduce the ground clearance. If you bring the axle closer to the chassis plate or use a lower bearing holder the ground clearance will increase.
Although the bearing holders are made in 0.5mm increments, Plafit also makes bearing holder spacers in both 1.0mm increments as shown above as well as thin brass 0.12mm for fine tuning. There are two 1.0mm spacers in each package and we will require two packages or four spacers in total to adjust our chassis. We want to reduce the ground clearance of the stock kit from 2.0mm to 1.0mm and we will use the 1.0mm spacers to do this rather than the expense of swapping out the existing bearing holders.
As with all the parts that contact the base plate, we want things to sit flat and true, so will will lightly flat sand the nylon 1.0mm spacers with 400 wet/dry to remove any burrs etc.
So back we go. We are going to start with the rear axle and loosen off all four of the screws that hold the rear bearing holders . . . leaving the axle and tyres mounted. There is no reason to take everything apart to put the bearing holder spacers in place.
We have completely loosed the four screws holding the rear axle assembly and put it to the side.
Now, leave the four screws in their holes and cover them with your fingers so that they will not fall out when you turn the chassis over . . . if you are right handed you probably want to use your left hand for this . . . or vise versa . . .
Still holding the screws against the baseplate with your hand . . .
put two of the 1,0mm spacers in place with the ears pointed down or toward the motor as this should also be the orientation of the aluminum bearing holders in their upright position.
The last step would have required an extra hand to hold the camera but basically you have to carefully put the axle assembly back on top of the protruding screws and baseplate and then carefully turn it over so that you can tight up the screws into the bearing holders. As with the initial assembly, do it slowly and in rotation like a 1:1 car wheel until it is all snugged up and not too much force. This shot shows the finished result with the 1.0mm spacers between the baseplate and the bearing holders . . . and the axle has not moved up 1.0mm and the ground clearance at the rear has in turn been reduced from 2.0mm to 1.0mm.
Now we are going to do the same to the front axle assembly, loosening off the four screws that hold the two front aluminum bearing holders in place . . .
Flat sand two more of the 1.0mm spacers . . .
With the front axle assembly removed, I use my fingers to hold the screws in place and turn the chassis right side up . . .
Put the two 1.0mm spacers in place over the two screws . . .
And in a similar balancing act as with the rears, put the front axle assembly in place carefully and start to tighten up the screws. It is a little tricky to align everything when you can't see it . . . but even if only one screw per side registers . . . it will hold it while you pick the other screw and washer up off the table or floor . . . and get all of them in place. Remember that the bearing holders are aluminum and the screws are steel and the threads can easily strip if you use too much force or become impatient. If you miss the first time, walk to the kitchen and get a cold beer and try it again. You will either get it together or drink too many beers and fall asleep . . . both of which are better than a stripped thread and a messed up part ;)
Fortunately one beer is all it took and the front end is put together. Also remember to push the bearing holders forward and tighten the screws slowly and in rotation . . . spinning the front wheels as you go to make sure that the bearing holders seat are in line and the front axle spins freely.
So with the front and rear bearing holders raised up by 1,0mm, we have now reduced the ground clearance from 2.0mm to 1.0mm all around. Race Rules very, but generally speaking 1.0mm is a common ground clearance at the start of the race for model cars.
A check of the 1.0mm clearance at the front of the rear wheels . . .
. . . and also behind the front wheels . . .
With the chassis pretty much complete and the ground clearance set to 1.0mm . . . time to hit the scales to see what we weight . . .
And the chassis is 148.2g . . . minus the guide, guide nut and braid . . .
. . . one of Gugu's Red Fox guide and nut at 2.4g . . . estimating the braid . . . the complete chassis will come in at almost exactly 150g. Remember that part of the body mounting assembly will eventually be attached to the body . . . and in doing so become a part of the overall body weight at TC.
So with the chassis at 150g . . . what about the BRM body?
Stock we are at 42.4g . . . once we add the body mounting strips, the glue, a regulation lexan interior and a lexan diffuser to the rear end . . . I think we will be at 50g . . . and an overall weight of 200g for the completed car. And for a model car, that is a pretty common overall weight for the level of car and standard kit components that we are using . . . and the car should handle and perform very well!
Now it's time to take some more photos and start the description of body mounting. Stay tuned!
