I started changing my own tires with tire irons and rim protectors, some bolts & nuts and a wheel balance stand.Then I purchased a Harbor Freight motorcycle tire changer and made some changes to make it work.Can now easily change my own tires in a very few minutes.Watch for sales on the tire changer as it can often be purcchased for 1/2 price.
Harbor Freight Tire Changer Motorcycle Adapter #42927 mounted on top of Harbor Freight Tire Changer Base Unit #34542Change motorcycle tires in no time flat. Excellent timesaving device for all auto shops. Includes assembly hardware. For use with Motorcycle Tire Changer, Item 34542.Rim capacity: 22'' maximumWeight:31 lbs
Harbor Freight Tire Changer # 34542You'll need motorcycle adapter #42927 also to change motorcycle tires.Change tires at a fraction of the cost! No expensive 220V power hookups or pneumatic lines. Handles all tires from 8" to light truck (7.5 x 16 and flotation tires up to size 12.5L16). Use in the shop or on the farm--you can even mount tires at the jobsite. All steel construction.Dimensions: 15" x 18" base, 7-1/2" diameter x 3/16" thick wheel rest plateShipping weight: 42 lbs.
Motorcycle Adapter - Change motorcycle tires in no time flat. Excellent time saving device for all auto shops. Includes assembly hardware. For use with the Portable Tire Changer, Item 34542. * Rim capacity: 22'' maximum * Weight:31 lbs.
Before purchasing the Harbor Freight Tire Changed I changed tires using tire irons and a few tools I made shown here
JC Whitney bead breaker that worked very well.I sold it after purchasing the Harbor Freight tire changer that has it's own bead breaker.
Prior to purchasing the Harbor Freight I used a plywood board with wheel supports made from 2x4's or 2x6's, rim protectors and tire irons to change my tires.This is the board with a long nut to hold the threaded rod you'll see in the next photo.
The threaded rod that will be used to hold the wheel while spooning off the tire is shown here.
This is the wooden tire support that holds the wheel. I made different sizes for various wheels.
Here's the support ready to drop the wheel on.
Tire sits on support and then top nut is tightened with wood against the wheel to secure the wheel for tire changing. The brake rotor fits inside the support for the rear wheel. On the front wheel, one rotor fits inside the support and the other is at the top. Be careful not to damage the rotor with your tire irons.
Rim protectors that are placed on wheel to prevent scratching the wheel. Strings are to retrieve the rim protector if it falls into the wheel.
Tire irons used to remove and install the tires.
Ru Glyde Rubber Lubricant. Use this on the tire bead when removing and installing tires. This is the secret to easy tire removal and installation. Without it you'll struggle. It actually sets up and acts like a glue when it dries. Available at NAPA auto parts stores. NAPA Part number BK 7651338. A gallon will last you for years.
When first purchased the Harbor Freight Tire Changer I mounted it to a piece of 3/4" plywood.It did work OK but the changer worked much better ofter anchoring it to the floor.Watch for sales at Harbor Freight as they often put the tire changer on sale as much as 50% off list.You'll also need the motorcycle adapter and I've seen it on sale also.
Here's the Harbor Freight motorcycle tire changer mounted to a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood.This was a big improvement over the tire iron method.
Another view of the HF tire changer mounted on plywood board.Notice there are 2 tire irons in this photo.I had a lot of problems with the HF tire iron so I purchased a Coats 220 tire.More on this later
HF to plywood carriage bolt attachment.This makes it easy to remove tire changer from board for storage.
This is the original Harbor Freight Tire Iron.I tried taping plastic on the ends to prevent scratching the wheels.It still did not work very well.I kept it and use it for the bead breaker only. The Coats tire iron's diameter is larger and won't fit in the bead breaker
I purchased a Coats 220 Tire Iron with replaceable plastic wheel protectors and it made tire changing a breeze and the plastic protectors eliminated scratching your wheels.I found the Coats tire iron at tooldiscounter.com http://www.tooldiscounter.com/MCategory_List.cfm?Category=Tire%20%2F%20Wheel&MCategory=Tire%20Machine Half way down the page look for Combo Tool, All Manual Tire Changers Coats 8107156 You'll also need the Combo Tool Protector Set Coats 8107423
Tire Irons Comparison - They don't look that much different but they sure do work different.Harbor Freight on TopCoats 220 on bottom
Remove tire end - Coats Tire Iron with plastic protector installed
Replaceable Coats Tire Iron (remove tire end) plastic wheel protector
Coats Tire Iron (install tire end) with plastic wheel protector installed.
Replaceable Coats Tire Iron (install tire end) plastic wheel protector
Initially I put duct tape on the wheel holders to protect wheels
Another view of duct tape on wheel protectors.This actually worked quite well.You just had to replace the duct tape occasionally.
I glued neoprene rubber to the wheel holders replacing the duct tape.This works very well and totally prevents any scratches to your wheels.
Another view of neoprene rubber installed on wheel holder.
The bead breaker on the HF tire changer works very well.Note: You must use the HF tire iron because the Coats tire iron is larger in diameter and will not fit in the bead breaker arm. Caution use of the bead breaker will prevent the metal shoe of the bead breaker from scratching the wheel.
Another view of the bead breaker tool. Since taking these photos I've built some wooden spacers to use while breaking the bead. (see next three photos)
I have two sets of spacers to use for different wheel sizes. Two tall ones and two shorter ones. I found that using these spacers prevents damaging the wheel while breaking the bead with the Harbor Freight bead breaker that works very well. Note: If your using the Coats tire iron it will not fit in the tubular handle of the bead breaker because of it's larger diameter so you need to use the bead breaker that came with the Harbor Freight tool.
To prevent damaging wheel while using the bead breaker I made some spacers out of wood that will elevate the wheel over the metal foot of the tire changer.
Here's another view of the tall spacers
After using the tire changer bolted to the plywood for some time I decided to anchor it to the floor.I used female thread anchors in the concrete floor so I can move the tire changer if it's ever in the way.
The HF tool anchored to the floor.This made the tool work much better as nothing moved around while changing tires.
Here you can see the anchore in the floor.If needed I can remove the four bolts and move the tire changer out of the way.
To keep the tire changing tools handy I fastened som PVC pipe to the tire changer to hold the tools.
Did the same for the two tire irons.I had to keep the HF tire iron as the Coats tire iron is larger in diameter and will not work in the bead breaker.
Harbor Freight motorcycle tire changer that I use today (January 2008)
Tire changer ready to change tires.
I borrowed some photos of a friend to show how to use the tire changer.
Clamp the rim and insert the rod through the hub into the hole beneath, then spray the bead generously with tire lube.Insert the flat end of the lever between the upper bead and the rim.
Lever the tire bead off the rim and lay the bar flat across the wheel, slide the bead off the rim by pivoting the lever on the rod.
Continue around the rim until the top bead is off. Repeat with the bottom bead.Some tires' lower bead will come off by hand after a little prying with the bar.Remove the rod and the old tire.
Spray both beads with tire lube making sure you lube the inside of the tire bead, then shove the lower bead onto the rim. It will often go on with no tools, but a bit of prying may be necessary. Pay attention to the arrow on the tire. Line the painted dot on the tire sidewall up with the valve - this is the lightest spot on the tire, and the valve is presumably the heaviest spot on the rim.But not always.Start the top bead by hand, then apply a small clamp to keep it from slipping off the rim. Or you can use a tire iron with your third hand.Hook the curved part of the knuckle end of the bar over the rim, pivot the bar on the center rod, and work the bead onto the rim.
When the bead begins to be stubborn, stop and squeeze the tire, forcing both the upper and lower beads into the well of the rim. This will give you about a half inch more slack.
Continue around the rim with the lever. When it gets stubborn at the last six inches or so, you can lift the end of the bar, forcing the bead down past the rim edge with the flat tab you see sticking up in this picture.Remove the wheel from the clamps before inflating the tire or it'll grab the clamps and you can't get the wheel off them.Seat the bead of the new tire on the rim before installing the valve core - sometimes the core doesn't allow air into the tire fast enough to inflate an unseated tire.Somewhere between 20 and 40 psi you'll hear two loud pops. That's the bead seating on the rim.This may not happen on tube-type rims, btw.If you're using a tube, powder it (baby powder) before installation. Once the bead has seated, deflate the tire and reinflate at least two more times to let the tube wiggle around inside the tire until it's straight.
After you have your new tires mounted you need to balance the wheels before putting them back on the motorcycle.
Here's my balance stand that I use to finish the job after installing a new tire.
The large tapered cone is an adapter used for single sided wheels such as VFR's and some Ducati's.Might work on BMW's also.
No-Mar Wheel Balancer is now available. At $120 in March 2011 it's a good deal. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/9
No-Mar large cone wheel balancer setUsed for large opening rear wheelsVFR, BMW, Ducati etc
No-Mar large cone set on my wheel balancer.Used for large opening rear wheels.VFR, BMW, Ducati etc.
I use stick on wheel weights available at most motorcycle shops or on-line. Just cut the weights to the correct length for the weight you need.
PVC Coated Bead Keeper- Super rubberized coating and special design prevents the tire bead from creeping when mounting the top bead. Easily clips in place with one hand. I've found this to be a very useful tool. No-Mar Yellow Thing It's used to keep the tire bead from creeping when you're installing the last of the bead I use this tool and it work great. $36 in March 2011 http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/10
Another view of Yellow Thing
Here's the yellow Thingy in use. It does a great job of keeping the tire from slipping around on the rim while your installing the bead over the rim.
NoMar Extra Hand Use these to Hold the tire down, pushing the bead down into the relief valley (Drop Center) of the wheel while you insert to demount tip in to remove your tire. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/8
NoMar Extra HandUse these to Hold the tire down, pushing the bead down into the relief valley (Drop Center) of the wheel while you insert to demount tip in to remove your tire.
The HF tire changer will also work quite well for dirt bike and other tires that use tubes. I made this tool to fish the tube valve stem through the wheel without skinning up your knuckles. Just thread the small end through the valve stem hole in the wheel and screw into the valve stem. After stuffing the tube into the tire you can pull the valve stem through the wheel and unscrew this tool. Another handy trick is to put the valve stem nut onto the cable before screwing it into the valve stem. Once you have the stem pulled through the wheel start the nut on the valve stem to prevent it from sliding back into the wheel before you can get air into the tube. This tool can be made very easily with some 1/16 inch cable and a valve stem tool available at Home Depot and most auto parts stores.
The Harbor Freight Tire Changer works for dirt bike or older bikes with tube tires also. To make a handy tube valve stem installation tool to get the tube valve stem in place when installing the tube you start with this part available at most auto parts stores. Just push out the shaft. Cut off the tapered end. Grind some flats on part thats left and drill a small hole through it for the cable.
Here's the pushed out pin with the end cut off, flats ground on each side, a hole drilled through, and the cable attached and crimped.
Attach the cable the piece the shaft was removed from. It will prevent the cable from slipping through the wheel by mistake.
Here's the completed tube stem tool. To use push the threaded end (on the left in this photo) through the wheel from the outside and thread it into the valve stem. Insert the tube into the tire and wheel and them pull on this tool to work the valve stem through the wheel.
Useful information on the tire's sidewall includes its manufacturing date. Look on the side for a raised block with four digits; it's usually next to the U.S. DOT tire identification number. The first two indicate the week of its manufacture, and the last two are for the year. For example, 1702 would indicate the tire was manufactured in April, 2002. You can also find some good tire information on the AMA web site at http://www.americanmotorcyclist.com/Riding/Street/Resources/TireDesignations.aspx
NoMar Classic Tire Changer This package includes the No-Mar Motorcycle Tire Changer WITH Stand AND Mount/Demount http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/1 Check the Internet if you're interested in a No Mar system as they often run specials.
No Mar also make a tire changer similar to the Harbor Freight changer. It's called the Cycle Hill Tire changer. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/4
This is the No-Mar tire iron that some people use. $125 in March 2011. I have no personal experience with it but friends say it works good. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/products/6 No-mar Mount/Demount Bar with non marring contact points. Comes with spray lube bottle and 1 pint of tire lube paste, three extra demount tips, and a handle. Lifetime warranty on tips. *Dirtbike tires: Our customer input has been very positive on this bar when used with typical style manual changers with small metal jaws.
Here's another option. Nylon grippers for the HF wheel clamps called Mojo blocks. With a set of Mojoblocks, you can easily retrofit your Harbor Freight tire-changing stand so that it will grip your rims without scratching them. The cutout in each Mojoblock is wide enough to accommodate even the wire-spoke wheels from BMW's GS-series bikes. The blocks are secured to the jaws of the tire changer by bolts that are countersunk below the surface of the plastic, so it will be difficult to accidentally scratch your rims on them. http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoblocks.htm Note: I have heard from a few people that the wheel will slip in the nylon on these spacers and in some cases the Nylon block will rotate. So use your own judgment before purchasing the Mojo blocks. I have good results with glueing thin neoprene rubber to the Harbor Freight clamps.
The Mojo kit comes with three blocks, three bolts, three Nylock nuts, and three washers. To install them, you just need to drill a bolt hole in each jaw on your Harbor Freight tire-changing stand, and bolt the blocks in place.
HF wheel clamp with MoJo block attached I've seen some reports that say the wheel slips when using the Mojo blocks. Personally I've had excellent results with a thin piece of neoprene glued to the HF clamps
Another optional demount/mount tire iron is the Mojo Lever. The Mojolever combines paint protection and mechanical advantage so that one person can change a motorcycle tire with very modest effort. When used correctly, you never need to pull on the bar with more than one hand. It’s three feet long, made of solid steel ¾” squarestock with a durable gloss-black powdercoat.
Information on the Mojo lever can be found at http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm
