THIS IS THE BOAT, NOT MINE THOUGH. I WILL FINISH MY BOAT JUST LIKE THIS ONE. THIS ONE IS FROM HILMARK BOATS. http://www.hilmarkboats.com/feature/dtwherrybuild.html
An early Lap Clamp design
The Lap clamp
The first cut
teach them while they r young
THE BOAT BENCH
Lofting
The Shop, JUST BIG ENOUGH FOR A 14 FOOTER
Making a slick OF SORTS (long handled chisel 2“ )
ADD EPOXY AND YOUVE GOT IT
epoxy works every time
Stem and Forefoot
Plank Lap Clamps
Final Lap Clamp (12“ reach)
Starting on the waterlines
Raked Transom
Setting up the grid work for the lofting
Working on the profile view water lines from where the station molds come.
That Batten is made of ipe, a hardwood.
The hardwood battens work very well, better the softwood.
Making Stem and Knee Patterns
Scarfing Jig
Scarfing jig
The profile view is done, ready to Make Station Molds
Gotta move it to Mylar for safe keeping
Transom Expansion. Inboard and Outbooard surfaces
Transom Expansion
Sheer Termination point at transom
Stem and Keel. Can you notice that I had to re-draw a bit here? Have to get it right!
The Green Giant.
Thanks to Wayne........You cant do without this tool...
Cuts like a dream. I went thru the 1 inch plywood keel like butter. It also cuts square and true.
Didnt take much to clean it up a bit.
Did the final Drawing on Mylar for another time and safe keeping.
Gluing up the Cutwater on a jig. Thats white oak in case your intrested.
The white oak cutwater and cutwater jig. The clear plastic works but I like the wax paper better.
The final Transom Expansion drawing on Mylar.
I had to change the orientation of the paper to get it all, that may be whats confusing bit here. The waterlines shoot across the page almost horizontally.
African Mahogany. This picture does not do this beautiful wood justice.
Starting to line up the grain and square it up.
Thats Rob, the transom master. Look at those forearms, they have not been worked like that in awhile...
Chalk marks come off very easily...
A happy man at work....or play?...Hum!! "":@)
When this finally comes together, you will NOT be able to see that seam in the middle.
More planing
Pretty color...
Epoxied up, waiting to dry.
I think thats the front, no.....no...not sure..... maybe the back.
That seam disappeared
Cant find it can ya?
Jack Planing the transom to 1“
The shadows are low spots
See the low spots?
Inboard and Outboard transom patterns
YEAH MAN, ONTO THE TRANSOM (INBOARD CUT)
WORKING WITH THE GREEN MONSTER......AWESOME BANDSAW!!
BOAT BUILDING.........CANT DO WITHOUT IT AND CUTS LIKE A DREAM
ALMOST DONE
ALMOST READY TO SET THE BABY!!! “”:@)
ONCE I SET THE PLANK WIDTHS I WILL TRANSPOSE THAT INFO TO THE TRANSOM PATTERN AS WELL TO EXPEDITE PLANK LAYOUT NEXT TIME.
THE END OF ANY PIECE OF WOOD WHEN ITS FASTENED AND ENDS WANTS TO STRAIGHTEN OUT AND THE KEEL IS NO EXCEPTION. THE KEEL AND STEM BEING BROUGHT DOWN TO ITS CORRECT PLACE AND CENTERED
THATS ME, LEARNING HOW TO SHARPEN TOOLS ALL OVER AGAIN...lol!!!
STATION 7 NOTCHED FOR THE TRANSOM KNEE
GETTING READY TO SET THE TRANSOM
YOU CAN SEE THE OUTBOARD PENCIL MARKS ON THE TRANSOM, THAT IS WHERE THE PLANKING WILL ACTUALLY TERMINATE.
GOTTA FIGURE SOMETHING OR SUPPORT.
THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF SETTING TRANSOM. (CENTERING AND SQUARING TO CENTERLINE)
SETTING, SQUARING AND CENTERING THE TRANSOM
OOPS !!! A LITTLE MAHOGANY AND EPOXY...CAN FIX ANYTHING.
A LITTLE BIT OF EPOXY CLEANUP GOES A LONG WAY WHEN IT COMES TIME TO SAND.
GETTING THE SHEER LINE TERMINATION POINT AT THE TRANSOM JUST RIGHT. I WILL MAKE THE FINAL ADJUSTMENT WHEN I PLANK 6, 7 AND THE SHEER.
Keel Pattern
KEEL LAMINATION TIME. ALMOST 1" THICK, TAKEN FROM 1 SHEET OF 12MM OKUME PLYWOOD.
EPOXIED IT AND Screwed it right to the bench
THE KEEL LAMINATE. A BUTT JOINT IS FINE AS LONG AS THERE IS EPOXY BETWEEN THE SHEETS.
IT WAS TOO LONG FOR MY TABLE
TRYING TO GET THE KEEL OUT ROUGH
outboard surface of keel mark
THAT CHISEL IS STILL SHARP
Keel roughed in
Plugging screw holes with cedar nd epoxy
fairing in the outboard surface of the keel
That paper patern is half the keel shape at station 7
Time for the station molds, THE MYLAR CLEANS UP NICELY WHEN GLUE DRIPS.
I AM BUILDING THESE STATIONS ON TOP OF THE MYLAR.
Stations are done. LOOKING FROM THE TRANSOM FORWARD.
From the stem BACK.
PUT ABOUT 21 INCHES BETWEEN'EM AND A LITTLE MORE AT THE STEM AND STERN AND YOUVE GOT A 14 FOOTER.
My first station, #4
THE FORWARS TIP OF THE KEEL IS STILL NO DONE. I WILL WAIT TILL THE STEM AND KNEE ARE ATTACHED FOR FINAL SHAPING.
THE TRANSOM KNEE IS CLAMPED ON THE ENSURE ITS FITTING WELL AS I HAD TO NOTCH STATION 7
HAD TO NOTCH STATION 7 TO ACCEPT THE TRANSOM KNEE
EVERYTHING HAS TO LINE UP PERFECTLY, SEE THE KEEL AND STATION CENTERLINE?
STEM AND STEM KNEE. UPSIDE DOWN.
STEM AND STEM KNEE. NOTICE THE GRAIN DIRECTION,
BEARDING LINE AND STEM CENTERLINE
I CARRIAGED BOLTED THE KNEES TO EACH OTHER AND THE KEEL TO THE KNEES, PROBABLY COULD HAVE SAVE A BIT OF CASH USING #12 BRONZE SCREWS
NOTICE THE KEEL IS DARK IN SOME AREAS. I PAINT THE KEEL WITH WHATEVER EPOXY I HAVE AFTER FINISHING WHATEVER IM DOING AT THE TIME. ITS EXPENSIVE AND WILL HELP WITH EBRASION WHEN IT GETS DRAGGED UP ONTO THE BEACH.
GETTING READY FOR THE GARBOARD PLANK
JUST ENOUGH ROOM TO GET AROUND THE BOAT
ALL STATION MOLDS IN PLACE AND KEEL SET
(TRANSOM KNEE, KEEL AND STEM) LOOKS NORDIC
JUST LIKE THE ATTIC.....NOT!
TRYING TO IMAGINE WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE FROM THE INSIDE.
KEEL AT THE STEM
I SCREWED THE KEEL RIGHT INTO THE MOLDS AT EVERY STATION
SHEER LINE
E-MAIL ME....I WILL EXPLAIN
E-MAIL ME...I WILL EXPLAIN
ALL BETTER (HAD TO MODIFY THE INBOARD AND OUTBOARD KEEL WIDTHS AT STATION 3, 4 AND 5.,,,,,THERE GOES THAT PATTERN) I WILL EXPLAIN IF YOUR INTRESTED.
THAT IT HOW THE GARBOARD PLANK SHOULD SIT AGAINST THE KEEL, FLAT AS A PANCAKE.
I LINED OFF THE ENTIRE HULL ON ONE SIDE AND MOVED THE LINES TO THE OTHER TO GET PLANK LAYOUT.
LOOKING FORWARD
LOOKING FROM THE STEM. MIDSHIP PLANKS 6, 7 AND THE SHEER ARE CONSIDERABLY WIDER
NICE LINES HUH....I HAD TO SEE PLANK LAYOUT FOR THE BOAT. THAT STRP FORWARD AT THE SHEER AND STEM REPRESENTS THE GARBOARD RAIL. I DID THAT TO ENSURE THE SHEER PLANK WOULD BE WIDE ENOUGH AND WOULD NOT LOOK FUNNY AFTER INSTALLING THE RAIL.
LOOKS A BIT FUNKY AT THE TRANSOM BUT ITS ALSO GOT TO BE TAKEN DOWN TO ITS OUTBOARD MARK. IT LOOKS AWESOME FROM THE STERN.
GARBOARD PLANK. I CANT BELEIVE HOW ACURATE SPILING GOT OUT THIS PLANK. BUT.....BE SURE TO LEAVE A BIT EXTRA AT THE ENDS WHERE ALL THE TWISTING AND TURNING HAPPENS, THAT IS WHERE INACCURACIES OCCUR
THE GARBOARD PLANK, MY FIRST SCARFING JOB I DID BY HAND AND HAVE NOT GONE TO THE JIG I MADE YET.
THATS 60 CLAMPS IN ALL ON THE 2ND. BROAD STRAKE
CENTERING FROM THE STEM AND KEEL CENTERLINE DOWN TO THE FLOOR
HOW DO YOU LIKE THAT RIG TO KEEP THE KEEL DOWN AND STEM IN PLACE (NOTHING FROM ABOVE!!!)
KINDA HAS THE SAME LINES AS THE WHERRY
UNTIL I FOUND THIS...I BEAT MY HEAD AGAINST THE WALL DRAWING THRU THIS DRAWING STAGE. (I GET IT NOW. CUTWATER CONSTRUCTION)
I LIKE THIS SAIL PLAN.......IT MIGHT WORK
Thast line your looking at is where plank 8 is going to land. All that wood has to come off down to the line coming in form the right at the botom of the picture. That's the sheer line, transom intersection. The top edge of the sheer line at the transom.
That is the way a scarf joint should look after its rough sanded. The dark line is the epoxy.
Notice the sheer plank land on the left has been cut. On the right it has not been cut yet. Notice how much wood hs to come off of plank 7, compare both side widths. The eighth plank still lands in the same place though.
Sweet lines...Awesome design.
Another perspective from aft, upside down!
Cleaning up the filleting.
I took a piece of 80 grit belt paper, from doing the gains, folded it in half, and sand the lap joints and the epoxy smoothe.
The epoxy dust is so fine that sometimes I think this mask is not working.
Just sanded the fillets of the whole boat in the hope that I would not be grabbing sand paper without the mask and sanding away my life.
Sandy Girl
Dawn taking pictures in the yard.
The shiny line is the epoxy before sanding, the whited out lap joints are all sanded and filleted at least 2x. I have notices that the slower catalyst\hardner (206) with a bit of 404 filler is doing a nicer job when filleting. I dont know, maybe its a matter of being more comfortable with the stuff.
Filleting is done, sanding complete.
Plank 4, and 6. Filleting is done.
The garboard plank is done!!......7 to go.
Thats the 2 broad strake. I used clamps at the stations and 4 to 5 clamps between everywhere else.
The cutwater fits over what your looking at to finish up the stem detail, the cutwater completes the stem rabbet and hides all that u see.
About midship on the starboard side you can see the lap clamps nut driver....Its homemade.... with a sacrificial 7\16 deep socket and some oak.
The nut driver (oak handle) for the lap clamps works well, lots of adjusting room.. gotta get another 7\16 deep socket though.
Stepping the transom for the plank lands to get the plank lap just right. everyone is different.
I used the lining batten to get the angle for the plank land from station 7 across the transom, sliding the batten up and down and chiseling till its flat.
Another plank land detail. Notice I did cut a gain on the lower edge of plank 2.
After roughing in the gains this paper works well for whichever plank needs fine tuning. That screw allows me to run the paper thru using both hands ensuring tight fit.
Plank 1, 2 nd 3 from inboard against the stem leading to station 1, look how tight those gains are.......“”:@)
This is also plank 1, 2 and 3 looking at the finished gains (inboard and forward). This would look good clear coated, no?
Pretty wood huh??
3 almost done , 5 to go!!!
plank 3
working on the gains.
This is how I correct the lining mark for the lap of the next plank. I take the lap mark from the statiion and line up the batten to its mark and Im right back onto the correct and fair plank lap mark
A bit cloudy but you get the idea. Using the batten gets me the next planks mark on the previous plank, then spiling for plank #4 from there.
Although I made a scarfing jig, I have been doing them by hand, Ive got more control that way. These are the tools Im using to scarf the plank joints.
Ive been doing the pairs together with the power planer, block plane, belt sander in that order, then finishing them off to get the feather edge with the random orbit sander using 100 grit.
Tommy rendered a vector graphic (Can be resized and not loose aspect) for me in photoshop over the actual transom drawing to get a better perspectve on lettering. Once the font and boat is chosen I will print it and affix the printing to the boat, trace out the letters and start carving.
Thats 6 planks done, getting ready for plank 7 for when Robert comes down.
Plank 6 done !!
Kind of a strange perspective (It looks skinnier then it really is)
A bit of relaxation in the back yard.
Lizzie and Joe!
Cutting up the stern end of plank 7.
Always leave the line !!
Just finished the plank land for plank 7. I wondered how this was going to look. Notice the angle where the plank lands on the transom is the same as the angle of the gain beveled on the previous plank.
Rob cutout plank stern end and it looked great, now we are cutting out the plank 7's stem end. the 2 will both be fittted and then scarfed to make one plank.
Scarfing plank 7 port side.
Is that a bald spot?
That is a bald spot.!!! Even though we spent hours making a jig to scarf planks, Ive done them all by hand. Matching pairs 2 at a time.
From under the boat, 6 planks done.
Getting readty to do the gains on plank 7, then glue it up. Thanks to Rob! It looks fatter then it really is.
The belly of the beast.
Trying to see what the angle of the sheer plank will look like.
If you look at the attached plank 7 ou will see a pencil line drawn to the angle at which it needs to be cut to accept the sheer plank. Its only about a 3\8 inch lap ???? (Ignore that light colored mahogany plywood to the right.)
Plank 6 and plank 7, thinking about plank 8 the sheer plank and last one as well. YAHOO!!!
Finally finished. The spar is 10'6" the mast is 12'6". All I have left is varnish and I will finish the spar ends in high gloss white.
the spar ends are hand carved to shape
Made the spar tapered, 4 sided then 8 sided.
Starting to get the shape out. I used a 24" plane.
This is how it was shaped.. Notice its tapered. see the lines on the top.
almost ready to shape
Glued up with Epoxy
tapered 1.75x3." Looks good after the cut. the wood did not move around too too much
Material is 2" x 6" actual. Laying out the tapered cut.
Looks pretty wild not on the molds anymore....
Wow......I like it like that!!!
SWEET!!!.....All that timme lining off shows now..."":@)
THose 2 support or help keep it in shape till necessary to do the inwale and rails.
I can almoast imagine the seats, BOTH ROWING STATIONS .
Adobe photoshop'd
sweet cheeks
transom view of tumbleeeeehome
rudder template
rudder template and (white) tiller handle
nice.....that stem is laminated
love it
lofting tools for rudder
Almost 5' tiller handle
gentle sweep in handle
that sheer strake still gets a 1 1\4 in think rail molding in the inboard and outboard surfaces at the sheer line.
CenrerBoard cutouttttttttt
Im gluing up the 2 pieces of the breashook. Its temporarily glued in place thru the hull.
YES....its a rope clamp and it did server its purpose.....worked well it did!
The inwale notches into the breasthook and a radius is cut.
Centerboard trunk, dry run....thwarts (seats) first !
How I kept the bit running straight
Centerboard and centerboard trunk. Note the lead cutout in centerboard for additional 15 lbs. of weight
This is done with 1\2 inch copper for the centerboard thru bolt
Peaned over slowly so as not to crack
This, I am proud to say is our steam bending contraption.
Also my sacrificial crab pot!
Great view.....notice it tilts back to the pot
Keep the gas far away from the flame!
Thats Dawns meat thermometer. (oops!) It worked fine. Just didnt read up to 220. I guessed that.
Had to give it a name
Took 1hr. 10min's to boil 5 gal.s water from sink at 70 degrees outside. When we were done, we had almost 5 gallons left... cant figure it out. It boiled for hours.
1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 X 7/8 wide ribs...... Just testing out size and flexability after steaming.
The dark ribs are linseed oiled
No consideration what so ever of grain run out and they all bent easily!
We are going with 5/16 X 7/7 inch ribs and 1/4 inch as the plan states for this light weight model. The extra weight will help during sailing.
There it is. cast already. The lead is already covered in epoxy, not to sure that will last. We will see.
5" X 9" with 1.5" radius at each corner X 3/4" thick= 15lbs. lead or better.
