Some of the motor candidates
Wheel and motor sizes
The components bought from TME.eu
The small ATMega8 microcontroller, packed like a piece of jewelry
FT232RL - The integrated circuit used to create PocketBot's computer interface.
Some of the papers used to create the PCBs, using the "Toner Transfer" method.
Getting the PCB ready for toner transfer
After transferring the toner
Etching the PCB in ferric chloride.
Ferric chloride smoke, don't breathe this
After etching
Starting to solder the small SMD components
Placing the integrated circuit
After soldering the integrated circuit
The finished board. This will make PocketBot communicate with the PC
While searching for the best motors for the project, I got offers and documentation.
Experimenting with the toner transfer method
Experimenting with the toner transfer method. This board will be the USB AVR microcontroller programmer
After soldering the microcontroller
These SMD capacitors are so small I can't even see them.
After soldering all the components to the programmer. It's not pretty, but it's ok.
The board for the sensor prototype. This will help me determine the best distance my sensors work at.
The simple LPT programmer I will use to program the USB programmer.
Programming the USB programmer. Setting FUSES
Programming the USB programmer.
Programming successful. My USB device was detected by Windows.
I used a piece of paper to cover my bad soldering.
The infrared LED from the sensor prototype board. This light is invisible to the human eye.
Measuring and experimenting with the sensors
Measurements, calculations, results.
The final board layout used for PocketBot.
A well cleaned and a uncleaned copper board.
After transfering the tonner: bottom side
After transfering the tonner: top side
I created two boards: one for experimenting
After etching.
Layout of the mechanical parts
After soldering the microcontroller.
After soldering the microcontroller and some other components.
The LEDs
The LEDs and power switch
After soldering the wheel support
After placing the wheels
This picture shows the small spring used to press on the motor
It wasn't easy, but I managed to solder the motors correctly
How the sensor board is placed. This is so I can easily adjust the distance from the sensors to the ground.
The sensor board
The top of the robot, after soldering the wires.
The bottom of the robot, after soldering the wires.
The robot connected to the USBasp programmer
ProcketBot running it's first program.
The placement of the sensor board
Pocketbot in standby.
Charging the battery
Front of the robot. The small infrared LED needs to be glued to the board
Back of the robot.
Bottom of the robot.
28 may: After mounting the second battery
28 may: After changing the small SMD trasistors with high-power BD137 and mounting the stabilization
28 may
28 may: This image shows the distance of the sensors to the ground
28 may (just in case you were wondering what was on my screen)
28 may: The bright LED
28 may. Testing it on the workbench after making the modifications.
Sept 2009: New battery
Sept 2009
