Front lower seam of shoulder patch is parallel to chest pocket and aligned with fabric weave. Sleeve patch lower seam is parallel to elbow reinforcement patch. Lower pockets on 4-pocket blouses can be seam-ripped off, but there might be underlying damage to the fabric due to the reinforcement stitches. 2-pocket blouses have epaulets that can be seam-ripped off, any stich damage to the fabric and seam restitching will be hidden by shoulder patches. (Recommended)
Template for left shoulder. Right shoulder is mirror image, minus BSG 75 patch.
2-pocket OD tactical shirt manufactured by Propper. Blouse was dyed a darker olive drab using FIT dye (mixture of dark green and dark brown) in washing machine. Shade turned out a little on the dark side, recommend shorter dying time than indicated in instructions (15-20 minutes instead of 30); if material is to be dyed, be sure to get 100% cotton, and remove any items (epaulets, tabs) beforehand. Microsuede color is chocolate/coffee. This was a first try. Subsequent photos will show a second iteration.
Shoulder patchs with template. Folds were tacked down with temporary, washable fabric glue. Curved edge trimmed with rotary cutter. This is a different microsuede material than in the first example. The color of this material is forest green.
Constructing the patches. Material is cut to shape using paper template, with extra margins for folds.
A folded sheet of carboard acts as both a straight-fold guide and a press while the fabric glue sets. Friction between the material and the carboard prevents the shape from shifting when the fold is made.
An initial crease is made to seat the material on the cardboard, and a line of fabric glue is applied.
The template is removed and the cardboard is folded shut again. A book is used to keep the fold flat as the glue dries.
Repeat for the 2nd edge ...
.. and the 3rd.
Excess material was trimmed off with a blade, being careful not to cut into the corners, where exposed edges could fray after stitching.
Shoulder and sleeve patches positioned over template and tacked together with temporary fabric glue.
Patches stitched together
Reverse of stitched patched. Excess material removed with rotary cutter.
In foreground is a Tru-Spec BDU blouse with forest green material (brownish hue in non-fluorescent light), in the back is the earlier version made with a Propper BDU blouse. The 2nd version has the shoulder portion lengthened by about 1/2 an inch for a pronounced "tuck" under the collar.
Hemmed sleeve with cuff tabs removed
The sleeves tended to hang long, extending way past my wrists, so I took the sleeves in roughly 1/2". In the process, I also took out the wrist tabs and buttons. I switched to forest green nylon to match the screen costumes. The nylon straps are tucked into the seams and benefit from the double-seam reinforcements. Shown here is the right sleeve with the buckle undone.
Sleeve with the buckle closed.
Finished
Revised patch pattern. Some uniforms appear simplified, omitting the shoulder seam. On others (the hero uniforms), the seam is subtle, perhaps because of the texture of the suede material.
Topside of patch
Reverse
Fabric was notched to facilitate the curved edge
Patch laid out on blouse
Affixing the patch with washable temporary fabric glue before stitching
Stitching on the patches. The needle was offset from the center, and an indentation in the foot acted as a guide to help keep the stitch spaced from the edge of the patch.
To make patches including the shoulder seam: First, start with the basic pattern ...
Fold and pin along the shoulder seam line, then stitch to create a small "pucker". The closer the stitch to the edge of the fold, the less distortion to the overall patch shape.
Fold and tack as before.
A closer look.
Finished shoulder patch with seam, applied on fatigues with embroidered patch
