First version of the pattern, with modified front and banded 3/4 sleeves
Front modified to remove the inset and continue the tucks up to the neckline
Front detail -- tucks and binding have blanket stitching with 3 strands of DMC rayon
Next version, with the inset and lace trim. Sleeves are from a vintage 1930s Butterick pattern
Lace trim detail
I didn't do a good job cutting the back neck, so it came out too loose. I fixed it by making 5 very small tucks.
Seam finish -- pressed to one side, bottom SA trimmed, top SA wrapped around it, and the two zigzagged together (catching only the seam allowances, not the outside fabric)