File suice provided by Dan. All the red lines are "air" moves. A waste of time in other words.
Suice.nc modified to add "(File Footer)" and run through optimizer. 91% optimized! Notice how much of the "air" movement was removed. From 60 thousand units (I think mm = 2.3 thousand inches) down to 5,000 mm (197 inches) ... yes for real.
Widgitmaster wide using the Proxxon IB/E as a spindle. I have fashioned a crude dust skirt to keep flying dust down ... it helps.
Stacked cabinets. The bottom one has my tool, parts bins, o-scope, leads, etc. I love the parts bin caddy in the lower left of the bottom cabinet. I have my tools/parts segregated by job. So when I'm ready to solder I pull just that bin and have all my tools and such.
X2 CNC Mini Mill * CNCFusion ballscrew 3-axis kit (www.cncfusion.com) * Harrisson Belt drive (www.harrisson.biz) Enclosure is a Whalen Storage (Costco)
Showing the top foam baffling as well as the LED lighting. I have had to repair the lights several times so I can't recommend them, but they throw a lot of light.
Close-up of Harrisson belt kit. Took about 15 minutes to install once I read that the spindle spanner nut was left-threaded (DOH). Very worthwhile project ... much quieter.
After I bought the bottom storage cabinet (http://www.whalenstorage.com/products/2dr_mobilecabinet.html), I had placed the mill on top of it (and my stuff inside). But the mill was too loud and too messy. My plans for an enclosure were too big and exspensive so I bought another cabinet :) Close the doors and it's stealth. Still need to add "damping" but when I milled acrylic it contained the mess.
Here you can see the addition of LED lights ($18 at Costco 3.5W). A glued (love Gorilla glue) some neo mags to the back so I can move them wherever. Notice the hole I had to cut for the Z stepper and the spindle motor. I plan to build a maple "hat" to cover it using left over maple stair treads. The butcher block top is over 1" thick.
I ordered the table extension for the original kit from CNCFusion. The kit includes the X block shown in the image and a coupler extension for the other end. $37 and I get the 2" back that the ball nut was hogging :)
A shot from under the table. Notice the ballnut on the left, and the new X-extension on the right. Also visible is my Y-axis optical switch and interrupter (the white piece). I used a piece of RC fuel tubing as a spacer.
This shot shows what the extension does. Before I added this piece, the red table end would hit (well not hit since I have limits) putting my X range at 6.75". Also another angle on the Y-axis limit.
The extension CNCFusion sent me was too short. I'm currently waiting for a replacement .. .no word from them on if it has been shipped yet or not. I was excited to do some more practice runs :/
DIY dust seperator. Creates a cyclonic stream so the chips fall into the bust and only very fine dust goes into the filter bag. The vacuum is in a "hush box" below the bucket.
Used a 6" x 24" galvanized HVAC pipe for the funnel. Just twisted it into a cone that looked right. Then capped it with a plywood plug with a 2" hole drilled for the outlet pipe. The inlet pipe was cut to angle in and down. It's held together with Gorilla Glue, white duct tape, screws, and cheap acrylic caulk.
Looking down into the 4" flange the cone sits in. Just use a $1 5-gallon frosting bucket from a grocery store bakery. Te "chip" are walnut I milled yesterday mixed in with some acrylic and maple.
The 4" plumbing flange is held on and sealed with polyurethane glue (aka Gorilla Glue). It expands and cures with moisture and we have a lot of humidity here. A little goes a long way. The cone just sits in the flange.
Linear power supply and HobbyCNC Pro controller.
Adding a RPM sensor for the Super PID router controller. More information at www.superpid.com I used a ball point pen body. ID: .199" (5.07mm), OD: .296" (7.92mm), length about .5"
Look through the square hole and you can see where I painted the shaft with white primer, then half black. The Sensor is on the left. I tried to capture it, but the actual sensor is about 2mm from the shaft.
Using the Dremel and a pointed grinding stone, I melted this hole in the top for the sensor wire.
I needed to short all of the triac leads to bypass the Colt's variable speed. I just a thick lead from a power diode.
My original plan of bending the sensor did't work with out first melting a notch (same way I melted a hole in the cover) in the tube to support and hole the alignment. I am using E6000 Goop. I used Thick CA to hold the sensor in place while the other adhesive cured.
Here you can see the sensor wire. Yes the warranty is voided :) I added strain relief to the sensor wire by zip tying it to the power cord.
