Chassis and turret boards drilled.
Chassis drilled. Front view. Ready for painting.
Top view of drilled chassis. Largest holes are for tube sockets.
Back of chassis. Large hole is for IEC mains power socket. Other holes are for power switch, speaker output jack, and ultralinear/standard poweramp operation switch.
G10 board and turrets for interior wiring.
Turret staking tool in drill press. Turret placed in G10 strip - ready for staking.
Turret placed upside down in staking tool.
Radiused staking bit compressing backside of turret for secure mounting on the G10 strip.
A strip with mounted turrets, ready for placing in chassis and soldering.
Turret mounted boards and strips.
Completed power supply board.
Power supply board (right) and preamp filtering caps board (left).
Painted chassis, back panel view.
Painted chassis, front panel view, showing window cutout.
Front panel view, tube sockets, interior hardware, and transformer mounted. Note: smaller transformer is actually a placeholder and not suitable for use in this amp. It will be replaced when my new transformers arrive.
Back panel view with transformers and tube sockets mounted.
Interior view with hardware mounted, including fabricated turret strips (as previously shown).
Another view of interior hardware. Following wiring of heater runs, I will mount the PSU and preamp B+ filtering boards. They will be placed on the hexagonal aluminum standoffs.
Results from a recent session with the laser cutter: top piece is an acrylic window that will be mounted in the hole in the front panel of the amp. The window is recessed to fit perfectly into the hole. At present there is a backing tape that will be removed when I mount it in the chassis. Below the acrylic window are two plates I cut for the back panel.
Close-up on power transformer with filament wiring in place.
Filament wiring for the 4 tube sockets.
Back panel mounted. Pentode/ultralinear switch and output jack will be added soon.
Close-up on serial number and Gothik Designs logo.
Red and Black mains wired to power transformer.
IEC mains and power switch wiring. I'm a little bummed that the switch is slightly shifted from center to get the bat perpendicular, but I guess no one will see the inside when it is in use. If you look closely at the tube sockets you can see the LEDs leads running into the center holes.
Top view of chassis, showing LED bulbs in tube socket centers.
Power transformer wiring complete. Red wires at bottom are for B+. Yellow center bottom wire is B+ center tap. Orange wire is center tap for filaments (elevated voltage tapped from B+).
PSU board mounted inside chassis.
Close-up on PSU board and power switch.
Board mount for B+ nodes and filtering caps for preamp.
Preamp B+ filtering board mounted.
820R resistors for screens that feed the pentode/UL switch.
Current state of the interior, 10/28/2010 11 PM. Not much left to do except wire up all the tube sockets, input and output jacks, and control pots. Oh, and tie down all those black ground wires that look so ugly sticking out everywhere right now.
Wiring the pentode/ultralinear switch.
Early wiring of the poweramp section. Pentode/ultralinear switch in place. Screen resistors mounted.
More work on the poweramp section. Cathodes wired, grid stoppers and grid reference resistors added. Paraphase wiring started.
We are close to testing out the poweramp. Only have to finish the paraphase inverter, add the volume pot, and wire the input and output jack.
Overhead view with poweramp wiring mostly completed.
Paraphase inverter wired in, poweramp section wiring completed except for output transformer.
Paraphase inverter with balance control (orange wire to pot).
Input jack and close-up on phase inverter wiring. Ground reference resistor is floating because I'm going to test out the poweramp with a separate standalone preamp.
Output jack wiring and leads to the output transformer (through the grommet to the top of the chassis).
Output transformer with twisted wires. Black/orange is for output jack, blue is for U/L screen tap, red twisted wires are for B+ out, single red wire is for B+ in.
OT wiring done w/ quick connects so I can test different output transformers. The final version with have directly soldered connections. 6J6 phase inverter tube and two 6AK6 output tubes mounted.
Another view of the mounted tubes and wired OT. The two pots on the front panel are for volume and paraphase inverter balance. However, after testing the amp I believe I'm going to switch to a long-tailed pair phase inverter.
Fully functioning amp (no tone stack yet). And yes, that is a Bart Simpson ornament on the Christmas tree in the background.
Some significant changes since the last set of pictures. I totally ditched the paraphase inverter and replaced it with a long-tailed pair. The amp sounds much smoother with better balance now. Also increased the first dropping resistor in the B+ chain.
Gothik Ring preamp and long-tail pair phase inverter. Makes for a pretty quiet amp. The final version will be 'prettied up' compared to the way it looks now... Still have a few ground wires floating around that will get tied down once I add the tone stack.
More Gothik Ring action. John and Iain are geniuses.
Poweramp side - not much has changed here except adding a 220k grid leak to the first 6AK6 tube. Thinking of dropping the B+ a bit via zener diode on the CT of the PT to improve tube life a bit.
In the words of Red Leader - 'Almost There...' Pleased with how this is coming along - just need to add a tonestack, sort out the screen voltage a bit, and figure out how to add a fuzz circuit. I'll also tidy up some of the wiring before delivery.
Completed wiring, including BoneRay tonestack and zener diode mod on the CT to drop the overall B+.
Close-up on tonestack (top) and Gothik Rings. Modifications since prior incarnation: changed screen resistors from 15k to 3.3k, increased coupling cap from 6AK5 input from 10 nF to 22 nF, increased plate loads on LTP to 15k, increased coupling caps to power amp from 10 nF to 15 nF.
Diffused window epoxied into chassis. Bivar flat LED used for lighting. Next to the LED wiring is a 24V zener diode, bypassed by a 1000 uF cap, wired to the CT of the PT to drop the B+ voltage.
Front view of window and control knobs. OT will be hardwired in once I decide on the proper impedance for the circuit.
Another view of the front panel with diffuser window for backlit logo on front panel.
Curly maple head shell. I need to cut the bottom piece to fit.
Side view of headshell wood. The curly maple has a nice figure, but it is a little hard to see in this image. It will pop out nicely once it is stained and finished.
Unfinished amp sitting in the headshell, which was built by my brother Danny Langevin of Midnight Refinishing fame.
Headshell curly maple. Pilot holes drilled for assembly.
Close-up on the figure of the maple.
Staining phase - applying the black under stain layer.
Initial stages of red stain, using Transtint "Bright Red".
Ready for lacquering.
Curly maple dyed red. First coat of lacquer applied. Crummy cell phone picture so you can't really see the figure very well... but it looks pretty sweet already. Only about 10 to 20 more coats to go.
The figure is a bit more obvious in this picture. Starting to look pretty nice... The real color is less orange and more scarlet.
Again, the figure is more prominent if you see it in person.
Time to make the metal grill for the enclosure. Here is a metal bending apparatus that Mike Schuette and I designed and built.
Perforated aluminum 0.032" thick.
0.25" diameter holes. 63% open space.
Perforated Metal mounted. Special thanks to Mike Schuette for the design and fabrication of the bending apparatus.
In place for bending.
0.75" inch radius bend. Sweet.
Making the second bend.
Taking shape now!
Perforated aluminum grill - perfect for viewing tubes a-glowin'.
6 coats of Krylon Lacquer.
Almost ready for first sanding.
Copper clad board with photoresist mask for LED clipping board.
Etched board with photoresist still in place over copper. Original transparency is sitting next to it.
PCB for LED clipping circuit.
Lacquer sanded down with extra fine grit (#400) sanding block. The residue is removed with a tack cloth, then more lacquer coats are applied. Sanding is done to even the finish.
The breadboard is a test circuit for diode/LED clipping fuzz added to the amp. the resistor box to the left is for checking the cathode bias.
Cathode biasing the amp for both 6AK6 and 6AN5 power tubes. The CDE decade box is mighty handy for this (and checking preamp bias as well).
More testing of bias and fuzz.
Mock assembly. A brief glance at what it will look like when 'buttoned up'.
One Lucky Devil...
Backside with power switch, Pentode/UL switch, IEC mains, and output.
Faceplate coming soon. Not sure what the final grill color will be?
The view from above.
Shiny! The figure looks more prominent in person. I still have about 4 to 6 more coats of lacquer to apply, plus finally polishing.
Can't wait to fully assemble this.
Fuzz control on a push/pull dpdt 100k pot. The circuit is bypassed until the knob is pulled out, at which point diode clipping is added.
Bottom of the fuzz pot with components and leads soldered.
Fully hard-wired amp!
Fuzz board at the top left. The clipping LEDs (one red and one blue) are mounted on the top of the chassis.
Finally, the amp is completely hardwired... I need a tripod, no?
Laser Cut faceplate on reverse-engrave plastic. Lucky Devil Logo will be backlit with a red LED.
Faceplate mounted on the amp.
I'm feeling a little fuzzy. See those LEDs? They light up in unison with your playing when the fuzz is engaged. To turn on the fuzz, pull the knob out...
One Lucky Devil!
Another action photo (but this one was taken with the flash on - the red backlighting is washed out by the flash).
Prepping the grill and mounting brackets. Zeno chose Rustoleum Metallic Charcoal. Looks BADASS!
Sunshine, lollypops, and rainbows.
The Lucky Devil!
Pretty much ready to rock.
You can't beat figured maple.
Hey! Why isn't the master turned to 10???
My favorite photo so far.
Tube and transformer action.