Lug ends are reduced by filing square, then octagon, then hexadecagon, then round!
Need to put tyre clearance dents in chainstays.
Not enough tyre clearance.
Cold setting dropout lug angles using a squeezer yoke because it fits and it wont bend!
Head tube cut to length.
Showing 22mm holes in head tube.
Roselli chro-mo fork bought from Paul Hillbrick. Steerer has been cut to size and is ready for thread cutting.
Drilling bidon mount holes in downtube and seat tube. Hole started with centre drill to make sure hole exactly on same line.
Pic to show mitering of seat and down tubes at bottom bracket. Pretty happy with the result.
Inside head tube you can see the mitre joint of the down tube has no gap to the head tube.
Same with top tube junction. It's a debated topic, whether lugged joints need good mitres, but I think the fillet of weld on the inside will make the frame nice and stiff.
Frame in the jig. It fits!
Bottom bracket mitre without the BB lug.
Naked BB again.
Top tube to seat tube mitre.
Front derailleur braze-on trial fit.
Seat stays initial shortening.
Rear axle jig which sets chainstay length, BB drop and seat stay length. Seat stay initial miteing.
Bottom bracket trial fit. Cranks fitted and chainstay clearance relief checked. Going to use 10 speed Campag Record alloy cranks with Chorus square taper BB. Rest of groupset is Athena 11 speed.
My "fastback" seatstays
Squeezer yoke with rounded and smoothed section to form indentations in chainstays. The "drift" is actually a Hillman Imp kingpin.
This is how the indentations were formed - though the chainstays were out of the frame and supported on a bench when I hit it with a hammer.
Headtube lugs polished. Started with 6" single cut file, then jeweler's files, followed by progressive wet & dry 400, 600, 800,1200 & 2000. Then buffed with Sisal wheel and compound before polishing with cloth wheel and wax. Shouldn't take too much to clean them back up after brazing... I hope!
For Dan R. A typical pour!
I'm going to use this stem off my track bike on the Velorini. Got another polished alloy 3TTT stem, but it's nowhere near as nice as this one.
I'm re-doing the seat stays to move the mitre up onto the seat lug. Darrell McCulloch of Llewellyn Bicycles has given me a mountain of great advice and encouragement. One of the things Darrell advised was the way I had my seat stays done before would eventually crack the seat tube. Consequently, I've ordered some new seatstays and will mitre them like this piece of tube.
Should look ok, I reckon.
Still a nice "fastback" rear triangle.
Bracket on jig to hold front derailleur braze-on bracket in place for brazing.
Another shot of braze-on bracket holder jig. Pretty pleased with this solution.
My beautiful STI bosses arrived today. Thanks Dazza. They will look incredible when polished. Perfect.
New seat stays mitred onto seat lug as per Dazza's advice. Much better now.
Close up of mitre on new, longer seat stays.
I think the frame looks nicer with the longer seat stays - should be stronger too.
New chain stays with new clearance dents. Really glad I remade these too. They look much neater.
Left chainstay needs to be rotated down a little. Tyre clearance now not a problem.
Rear stays should look ok, I reckon.
Trammel attached to face of bottom bracket. Using this to set BB straight before pinning. An adjustment bolt at the top of the trammel sets it parallel with seat tube.
A second piece of angle off the top of the trammel is checked to be parallel with the top tube. This ensures the BB is set nice and square to the frame.
View of the top angle
Forward pin hole drill #40 and clecoed. Cleco will be replaced by a steel pin when the BB is welded.
Same deal on the aft side of the BB.
Close-up of trammel bar attach and clecos.
Some finishing work on the drop-outs. Very happy with the line from chainstay to seatstay.
My Harris oxy-propane torch.
Seat stays (and seat lug to seat tube) drilled ready for pinning.
Another shot of top of seatstays.
After the frame is brazed together, I thought my chances of drilling straight holes for the bidon cages would be pretty difficult, even with pilot holes pre-drilled. Because I'm using the bidon holes to help hold the frame in my jig I decided to drill the seat and down tubes for the bidon bosses. These will be the 1st items to braze on, then I'll bolt the tubes back into the jig. This needed cutouts in the jig and a new strip rivetted over the cutouts on the jig to take the bidon bolts.
STI bosses and cable stop "Limpets" filed and sanded smooth, ready for brazing.
Test piece ready for brazing. This will be the 2nd test piece.
1st test piece seat lug joint fluxed and ready to go. Harris "Black" flux.
Oxy-propane flame. This seems about right...
Brazed with 56% silver. (31/7 edit - too much heat on this one. 2nd trial boss was much better - see the pics of the bidon mounts for better results.)
Flux cleaned off RHS.
Flux off post brazing LHS.
Test piece #1 disected to show silver penetration. Very happy with the fillet between the tubes and the flow out of the hole next to the pin. The wetting of the joint under the lug seems pretty complete.
Trial piece #2 with cable stop being held in place, ready to braze.
Seat tube bidon mount with flux washed off and wire brushed. Yet to be cleaned further with emery cloth.
Down tube bidon bosses freshly cooked.
Brazing the 2nd STI boss in place.
STI boss freshly cooked.
STI boss washed and brushed.
Llewellyn STI bosses will look sensational when polished on the painted down tube.
Both STI bosses with flux washed off and a light wire brushing.
Non-driveside dropout brazed.
Non-driveside chainstay cleaned up. Silver solder line visible.
Front derailleur mount brazed to seat tube. Limpets brased to top tube.
Right chainstay with dropout and derailleur cable Limpet silver brazed in place.
Close up of silver on seat lug after flux washed off.
BB alignment moved during brazing. I reheated the joint and straightened. I refluxed the joint and ran some more silver in to be sure...
This was the amount of misalignment.
Good flow of silver into the BB except maybe at the back of the seat tube between the chainstays. This was corrected in the second alignment and reheating.
Fluxed and ready to realign.
Unwashed, realigned BB.
Because of the BB needing adjustment, the seat lug needed a small tweek too.
Extra straight edge to check alignment of the chainstays.
BB cleaned up.
BB done. Seat stays not brazed yet.
Inside BB cleaned. Note improved silver flow at back of seat tube. I heard this was a common area of failure if not brazed correctly.
Beautiful Nitto forged aluminium seat post and Fizik Arione saddle.
I burnt the flux on the seat stays a little because I didn't want to put too much heat into the seat lug and the seat stays heated so easily by comparison. You only had to look at them with the torch and they would glow red...
Looks like a frame!
Nice tight rear, eh?
Look out Mr Merckx!
Everybody's a critic!
Rear brake bridge.
Bare frame weight. Some cleaning up to do, so it will get a little bit lighter...
Head tube lug ready for polishing (again!).
Seat stay joint filed with some sanding left to do before painting. Top of seat lug finished.
Lower head lug. Space at top of fork is equivalent of bearing and cap to be fitted.
Finished brake bridge.
Ouch! Not happy with a few aspects of the head tube, so it is going to be rebuilt.
Not a good day...
On the bright side, the silver penetration under the top lug was really good...
New lugs and head tube. Now exactly 73 degrees. Finishing started on top lug. Bottom lug pretty much as brazed. Head tube has been cut to top of lugs - was 10mm oversize either end to aid solder feed.
Shorelines of lugs are sharper because they weren't polished beforehand.
Front derailleur mount polished.
Added a stainless washer to brake bridge - to stop paint chipping and rust at pivot bolt.
Polishing setup. Head tube and seat tube have been reamed to final size. BB has been faced and threads retapped. Work done by Paul Hillbrick.
Polished head lugs and STI bosses.
Part way through polishing head lugs.
Polished STI bosses.
Pretty much finished polishing bottom head lug. A couple of touch ups to do.
Finished top head lug.
Seat binder slot cut now that seat tube has been reamed.
"Ultra Blue" paint looks nice and will show up polished parts well.
Nice and glossy around seat lug.
Doesn't look too bad. A few small blemishes, but on sanding to recoat I found some adhesion issues so...
... I completely stripped it back to bare metal, reprimed and (after nearly throwing the frame in the rubbish bin) thought "Ultra Blue" had it in for me - at least on this bike. Hence it now has the first coat of "Delicious Red". Should look even better with the polished and silver anodised components.
BB detail after 2nd coat.
After 2nd coat is tack-free with masking removed.
Blue hearts in STI bosses.
Front pretty much ready for final polish and steering head bearings.
Finished! BTW, the name on the top tube, "Sagitta" is the name of a constellation. It is latin for "arrow".
This pic was taken after the first ride. Goes better than I expected! Nice ride, tracks straight, stable at speed. Cornering is pretty neutral - it's not twitchy, nor do you have to push in through corners.
Just a little something I cooked up....