She's a classic!
I'm thinking it's original flooring. We were even given the inverter, not sure if I'll ever test that bad boy out.
Moved into the garage for winter storage and maintenance.
Because the coupler is a weld-on A-frame style hydraulic surge coupler, I really don't want to replace it. Master cylinder removed and the shock absorber removed from its mounts. The shock isn't in bad shape so I may re-use it unless I can find one that fits.
A bit closer view with the shock out of the way. I plan to remove the jack and clean everything up and give it a quick paint job.
The 1975 original master cylinder. Everything on it is seized up. Luckily I have found out that DICO makes a master cylinder (part #10271) that is a twin and should bolt right in. We'll see when it arrives.
Who needs brake fluid? The whole system is bone dry, I'm sure the wheel cylinders must have leaked and it's been dry for many, many years.
7" x 1 3/4" drum brakes. I have a feeling this whole assembly will be getting replaced due to the small difference in cost
Atwood wheel cylinder.
Sans shoes. Too bad, there was a fair bit of meat left on the shoes.
Normally, when you remove the brake drums, the shoes are NOT supposed to come out without removing the mounting hardware. Too bad, they had a fair bit of meat left.
Thankfully the bearings were in good shape. Someone actually took care of this part. Along with that, the wheel bolts came out nicely and everything else on the trailer has unbolted fairly well with a bit of help of penetrating lube.
I had some time on my hands while waiting for parts calls to sand and re-paint a few of the brake parts. I'm not super concerned about a pretty look, just dealing with stopping rust and making it look better than it did.
The brake push-rod and front cover plate in progress.
Sorry for the blur. The brake system is an old (and I mean old) Atwood hydraulic surge system.
The coupler after removing the inner slide assembly and the jack. Again, everything came apart fairly easy.
The inner slide assembly. You can see someone dented in the curb side and I'm not 100% sure if I'll bother using the torch to bend it back, it still works and is structurally fine. It'll definitely get a cleaning and a coat of paint.
Overhead view of the coupler without the inner slide. You can see the grungy brake line that is dry. It was a bit of work to remove from the master cylinder, but a little patience goes a long way. I plan to clean off the rust and loose paint and then re-coat in the same silver colour. I still haven't decided if I can dis-assemble the jack and give it a once-over, we'll see.
The DICO Model 6 master cylinder (part #10271). After a bunch of hunting around, I found a site with measurements and the site even said this part fits older Atwood brake systems.
Everything lines up great. The only difference is where the brake line connects. On the original master cylinder, it connected on the angled spot on the right in this picture. The new one is on the front.
Overhead view, as you can see the mounting bolts are temporarily installed to make sure everything lines up.
With the brake line connection on the front end of the master cylinder, I may have to modify the front plate of the cover, but not by much.
So far so good.
The rubber brake hose that connects the axle to the brake line that runs the length of the trailer frame. There was a stubborn U clip that finally came off with a lot of coaxing.
The brake line that runs from the master cylinder to the rubber hose that connects to the axle. This one came out easy.
The freshly re-painted hitch, ready to begin re-assembly.
Here's the inner slide assembly. I lucked out and got a brand new locking assembly too so that's been installed.
The new locking assembly. Very easy to install and ready go for another 30 years.
The rear actuator arms. I haven't re-painted the front ones, but they are only about 3" long and straight.
Used shock, re-painted. Luckily I was able to find one that is still in good working order.
These are the paints I've used on the hitch assembly. Most parts got 3 - 5 coats of paint while some of the smaller parts only received two.
Re-painted hitch jack housing.
Hitch jack handle and cap.
The insides of the hitch jack. I'll give this a quick clean-up and lube the threads and bearings before reassembly.
Hitch assembly test fit.
Brake actuator assembly.
These are the new Dexter 7" x 1 3/4" brake assemblies.
One step closer to stopping power.
New master cylinder painted and installed.
I've run new brake lines from front to rear, you can see I still need to finalize the length and flare it.
Kind of a useless picture, it's the front A-frame into the main frame.
The new brake lines are all bent and ready to go.
One messy workbench.
Factory flare...
Bad practice flare....
Good flare, after about 8 practice shots I've got the technique figured out.
New rubber hose, it's a bit longer but that's no big deal. I ended up ordering a full single axle brake line kit as it was easier than getting individual parts and allowed me some spare brake line for practice flares. The kit even included the C clip and axle clips.
Axle all back together again and ready for wheels.
I'm going to be replacing the U-bolts after having a closer look and since they are pretty cheap insurance.
I still have to deal with attaching the T to the axle but that can easily be done with zip-strips for now until I can weld it.
Roof is off, ready to start prepping for the new stuff
Basic roof structure for the new roof.
I increased the height of the roof by about 2 inches in order to accommodate thicker foam for the bunk ends at a future time. Side plywood is 3/4" and top is 1/4"
Internal roof cross members are just 1x4 pine with a slight arch cut on the upper side. All joints are glued as well as screwed/nailed.
On the sides I had to make a length of 10'. I used a 10" long half lap joint that is glued and screwed.
The broken front lift cable. I'll likely replace both front cables for peace of mind.
New roof structure almost on the trailer now.
It's sitting on stands and I plan to bring the lower trim up and attach for a test fit then get the roof jacks attached.
Hokey stands
Rough test fits of the aluminum lower trim is looking good
Finally mounted the roof to the lifts today and cranked it up.
I need to adjust the height up another couple of inches but so far so good.
I recessed the nut ends so they are flush with the wood. This will be important when applying the roof skin. Note: I still have to cut the bolts short.
I had lost one of the aluminum clips that covers the trim joints so I just made a new one.
Inside view of the roof jacks.
The stove removed. We don't cook in the trailer so it's better to just have counter space. It looks in decent shape though.
Adhesive and overlap cement for the Ducan vinyl decking I will use to cover the roof. Most likely I'll be purchasing another pint of adhesive as I think the 1 gallon is just a bit shy.
The vinyl decking for the roof. It's 31.5mil, nice and light yet durable enough.
