NOTE: This is great helmet, but it presents a challenge for any externally mounted headset due to the rear part of the chinbar moving downward when you raise the chinbar. Thus, any externally mounted headset module will need to be moved about 4" farther back than normal. Shown here is a location that is actually too far forward. See installation pics in this gallery for precise and correct location of the module.
We're installing EdSets 3G headsets with surface microphone (flush mounted) into two SyMax II helmets.
Here is the standard 'Easy Pick' 3G headset with surface microphone and the two helmets we'll be installing.
Step One is to pull out the cheekpads from both sides of the helmet. The liner pads snap out, then there is a secondary styrene pad that comes out with a screw in the next step, but only the left side needs to come out on that one.
This is the styrene cheekpad base. Remove the left side base by removing the screw and work the pad out gently.
This is the small screw that holds in the secondary cheekpad made of styrene. This needs to come out so you can route the speaker wires and microphone wire as well.
The styrene cheekpad section inserts quite a way into the upper part of the helmet's internal styrene pad. This shows the cheekpad section removed and flipped over so you see the top of the pad at the right side of the picture. The front of the pad is at the bottom of the picture.
Speakers go inside the pouches with the magnet side at the velcro side.
Close one speaker with the wire on the right, and one with the wire on the left. You want both wires pointing to the rear when you attach them to the cheekpad with velcro.
This shows the best location for the velcro that holds the speakers on. mke sure the wire from the speaker pouch points to the rear.
Proper speaker location. Mirror image for the other side.
Here is the approximate location of the headset module. Since this helmet's chinbar geometry causes the angled section of the chinbar to travel down and forward, you have to mount the main 3G module behind it in order to avoid interference. Hold the module in place and put it as far forward as possible while moving the chinbar up and down to make sure your chosen location is free from interference. This is a MOST IMPORTANT STEP!!!
Once you've determined the location of the module, prime the area using the foam backing pad as a guide. It's ok to 'color outside the lines' a bit here. The primer is removed with an alcohol wipe later, so don't worry if you get it in visible areas.
This shows the properly located 3G module with the foam backer in place. The headset can be located and mounted this way, but it is better to use the 'Method B' approach. See our online installation instructions at edsets.com for more detailed info on the two approaches. I always use method B.
If you use the 'Method A' installation procedure, you stick the Dual Lock onto the helmet using the foam pad as a guide. I don't care for this method since the module may sit lower on the helmet than you expect due to the curvature of the helmet and geometry of the lower edge. In Method B, you put the Dual Lock onto the module, fully engaging it, and then peel off the tape and stick it to the helmet while holding the bottom of the module firm against the lower edge of the helmet.
This is 'Method B' in our instructions for mounting the 3G module on the helmet. You simply put the Dual Lock all the way onto the module, fully engaging all the small 'mushroom heads' of the Dual Lock, and then carefully remove the clear printed cover from the adhesive side, and press the module against the helmet while making sure the lower ledge is tight against the lower edge of the helmet. Let it 'rest' for 20 minutes and then snap off the module and put the foam backing pad in place for a finished installation.
Once the Dual Lock is down on the helmet, snap off the module and clean any excess primer off with an alcohol wipe.
this shows the proper location of the module for the chinbar to not interfere with the module as it moves down and forward during raising the chinbar.
Another view of a properly located module.
The 3G module sits pretty far back on the helmet, but while it seems extreme, it is ok, and perfectly functional. The Symax II is unique as far as we can tell because ANY headset module has to be installed pretty far back to avoid interference.
This is properly installed module for the SyMax II.
Once the 3G module is mounted, you can run the wires inside the helmet. Make sure you've removed the styrene pad from under the left cheekpad.
Route the left speaker wire anywhere under the pad, but preferably towards the back of the helmet. IT will simply lay loose under the pad. Same with the right side wire. I run the wire behind the styrene padding at the bottom rear of the helmet, but you may also run it behind the headliner if you prefer, above the two rear snaps.
This shows the 'stage 1' routing of the wires. Note the mic wire is high on the left side (blue and yellow). This is proper for the moving chinbar method of using a surface mic.
Put the spiral wire wrap on the mic wire. Not required, but it looks better and keeps the two small wires together. No need to worry about broken wires if you route it properly. We have virtually never had a broken wire in this application and mounting method.
Unscrew the two screws at the lower rear of the inside chinbar cover. This screw is underneath a replacable black adhesive tape square. Pull it off and save it by sticking the edge to something clean so you can put it back on when you finish the installation.
Note, interestingly, that there is a 3/4" hole in exactly the right place that exactly fits the EdSets microphone that locates the microphone in the most desirable place for optimum communication. The SyMax II was designed 4 years after our microphones were... :) We will be cutting out this small hole and making a matching hole in the chinbar cover. If you are careful, you can do both at once. The styrene is pretty delicate, so I recommend a Dremel cutter and a steady hand, but I'm experienced, so I use a 3/4" reamer and Exacto knives to bore the hole in the cover and the styrene at the same time, and to clean up any burrs.
Here's the reamer almost finished boring the hole. You can use any method you like to locate this hole. A Dremel works great if you have one.
I clean up the edges a bit with a diamond file.
The square mounting tab is not needed on a flush install, in fact it makes things more difficult, so cut it off with a decent pair of scissors.
If you cut out the 'factory' hole using the little recess on the other side as a guide, this is what it looks like.
This shows the hole cut based on the little 3/4" dimple that comes from the factory. You can use this hole to guide the hole for the plastic cover.
Once the holes are in place, insert the mic (business end first) so that it is flush with the inside surface of the chinbar (see next picture) or just protruding 1/`16" or so from it. I use some glue or flexible silicon caulk to hold the mic in place. It's easily removable if the mic needs to be replaced, and makes a flexible mount.
Here's the finished mic installation in the chinbar cover. Replace the cover carefully after routing and taping down the mic wire (plugged into the blue/yellow wire plug from the 3G Module) to the upper left side as far as possible. Once the chinbar pad is screwed down, raise the chinbar as high as it can go, and then insert any excess mic wire into the space between the left side styrene cheekpad backing piece and the helmet shell. Leave just a little slack. When you raise the chinbar, the wire will go up, and when you close it, the wire will lay against the cheekpad out of your range of vision.
The finished installation. Note that in the picture you can see the mic wire where it comes out of the cheekpad and into the chinbar.
