This picture shows how to hold a rotary cutter.
These are the pieces for the original call bag.
This is the inner pocket being applied to the call bag.
Pocket cut (11" x 7"), narrow ends serged, 1" hem and 2" hem pressed.
The pocket is folded so that wide hem is under narrow hem, extending by 1", and cut so that the bottom fold is 1/2" shorter than the top at each end.
On the end with the wide hem, stitch one more row to match the other hem width.
The pin at the center of the strap is placed at the edge of the ruler. The pin is in line with the center of the side cutouts. The strap is pulled tightly to assure that it is straight.
A pin is placed at the center of the strap. The inner edge of the strap is aligned 2.5" from the center on each top hem edge.
Pull the strap sections tightly so they are straight, and pin in place.
Make sure you have not twisted the straps. One side of the strap should always be facing up.
On the other side of the bag, stitch along the outer edge of the strap, from one pin (3" from top hem edge) to the other pin (3" from the top hem edge at the opposite end of this strap section).
Run a 5" piece of narrow elastic through each pocket casing and tack down the ends. Baste the pocket edges together.
Lift up both sides of the strap. Place the top edge of the pocket 4" from hem end, and pin in place. The sides of the pocket should extend about 1/2" under the strap. The bag will bunch up under the pocket.
Stitch along the edge of the sides and bottom of the pocket assembly. Lay the strap back down over the pocket. Stitch along the inner edges of the strap on both sides, stopping 3" from each top hem edge, and overlapping earlier stitching near the bottom center line.
Fold the bag, right sides together. and pin in place so the sides match at the side cutouts and at the top edges of the interfacing. Stitch the sides with a 1/2" seam.
Press the seams flat, then press them open.
Serge the side seam edges (if not already done). Fold the bag as pictured so the bottom of the side seam matches the bottom center line. Pin in place.
Stitch with a 1/2" seam, then serge the edges together. Use a double-eyed needle or tapestry needle to pull the serger threads through the seam allowances.
Turn the top hem edges 1" to the inside and pin in place.
Stitch the hem, but do not stitch through the straps.
Straps before final stitching. The straps are to be stitched along the edges, overlapping previous stitching, and turning at the top hem edges.
OPTIONAL BAG INSERTS: The plastic canvas was cut to 6" x 13", then trimmed by one row. The craft foam was then cut to the same size. These fit in the bottom of the bag to give it some stiffness.
The edge-stitching on the straps has been completed, all the way to the top edge of the bag.
The happy recipient. I mean Really Happy!
OPTIONAL BAG INSERTS: The plastic canvas was cut to 6" x 13". One row in each direction was trimmed off, then the craft foam was cut to the same size.
Contrasting thread basting was originally used to show pocket and strap placement.
Straps applied to the original call bag.
My original bags used a fold instead of a cutout to form the square bottom.
The completed original call bag.
The Green One! (shy recipient)
Pocket has been angled at both ends.
The bag fabric is cut 20" x 32", and the woven fusible interfacing is cut 20" x 30". The interfacing is fused to the wrong side of the bag fabric, and is one inch shy at both ends to reduce thickness at the hems. The 20" edges are the top hem edges, and the 32" edges are the side edges.
The interfacing usually presses wider than the bag fabric and gets cut off with a rotary cutter. In later bags, I serged all edges at this time, effectively trimming off the excess interfacing.
The bag is folded in half, hem edges matching. This fold is the bottom center line. The corner template is made 2.5" x 3". The long edge of the template is placed along the fold, and the short edge of the template is placed along the side cut edge. The template is used as a guide to cut out the corners.
The corner has been cut out, 2.5" from the fold, 3" from the cut edge of the fabric.
The top hem edges are serged (if not already done).
A pin is placed at the center of the top hem edge (at the 10" mark in this picture). Pins are placed 2.5" to either side of the center pin, effectively marking a 5-inch spread. This is done at both top hem edges.
A pin is placed at the center of each side cutout.
The ruler is aligned with the pins at the center of each side cutout to show the bottom center line of the bag.
The cut ends of the strap are overlapped by 1". A pin is placed in the center of the overlap. This side of the strap is aligned in the same way as the other side, with the center pin at the edge of the ruler.
This side of the strap is aligned in the same way as the other side, with the center pin at the edge of the ruler, and the strap pulled tightly so it is straight. The strap section on the right side of the picture has been pinned at each top hem edge to hold it in place.
Lift the overlapped strap edge out of the way. Stitch along the edge of the entire underlapped strap section from the pin (3" from top hem edge) to the raw edge of the strap, turn, stitch across the raw edge of the strap, and back up to the pin (3" from top hem edge).
Place a pin 3" from top hem edge at both ends of both sides of the strap - 4 locations. Secure the strap sections with more pins between these pins.`
Stitch down each hem about 1/8" from the inner edge of the hem.
The thread tails show that the underlapped part of the strap has been stitched along the edge, starting and stopping at the pin 3" from the top hem edge.
Fold the overlapped part of the strap so that the raw edge is not at the same place as the raw edge of the underlap. Stitch along the inner edge of the overlap starting 3" from the strap's fold, down to and across the fold, and up the outer edge to the pin (3" from the top hem edge).
New tote bag for DH.
Close-up of pockets and fabric. The pockets are each 6" x 6" with a 1" top hem and a 1/2" bottom hem.