This album is the 3rd of a 4-part series of photologues. For the first of the series, visit http://picasaweb.google.co.in/lazyTrekker/Jhansi# --- The Jhansi - Khajuraho passenger reached Jhansi nearly on time (around noon).
A view of the Satna end of the newly inagurated (Dec 2008) Khajuraho railway station platform.
A view from the Jhansi end.
Inside the station building.
The railway time-table and fare-table.
The facade of the station building.
The Khajuraho railway station (http://www.wikimapia.org/14803256/khajuraho-railway-station) .
A photo from the seat of the auto rikshaw driver as we left the station. I kept my hand bag at the baggage place behind and sat at the right corner of the passenger seat. Three others sat besides me. Two sat on a 5" wide wooden bench placed just behind the driver. Two others sat on either side of of the rikshaw driver. Two others sat over the baggage in the rear! I paid Rs. 10 for a drive of a distance of about 17km (from station to Khajuraho town).
A hoarding of MP tourism welcomes the tourists. A cafe - Mediterraneo (established in 1991) - is also inviting (board on the left side of the road). There are two roads for traffic either way - a rarity in rural India. Of course, the Khajuraho airport is on the way to the town (and is on the right side).
Hotel Ramada(?)
The Hotel Chandela Khajuraho is on the left side of the road.
Reached a junction with a modern sculpture in the traffic island. After a couple of turns, we reached the 'Yashovarman' bus stand. Thence, the main road (Jain Temples Road) of Khajuraho that houses a lot of budget hotels in addition to market, shopping centres etc.
I went to Jain Lodge on the Jain Temple road, as recommended by a few tourists (http://www.wikimapia.org/14803652/Jain-lodge). It was a clean and neat place. I choose a room at the rear of the hotel on the first floor.
A double bed room with attached bath (hot water 24 hours) cost me Rs. 400.
There was a balcony with a view of a garden and beyond!
The balcony.
The 'beyond' turned out to be the play ground of the town. It was a sunday and a cricket match was on. A commentator was providing live commentary. The India team was playing some 1-dayer on that day as well.
Soon, all members of one team got out. it was lunch break. Note a group of water buffallos crossing the cricket field (barred to human spectators) :-)
After a refreshing hot bath, I went to Agrawal hotel and had a thali. It was nice and I tipped the boy (25%). I received very good service whenever I went there (for breakfast and dinner). I hired a bicycle from a nearby shop. The ownever wanted to know my lodging and room number. I had forgotten the latter and also left the bulky key at the hotel reception desk, as is the practice in good hotels. I retrieved the key and showed to the owner to increase his level of comfort. The charge for a 3 hour rent was Rs. 15. I had that afternoon and the whole of the next day at my disposal. My plan was to see the Jain temples today, watch the 'sound and light' show at the western group of temples, visit the Hindu temples the next day morning and see the western group of temples after lunch. On the way to Jain temple complex, I saw this more modern shrine of Hanuman on the left side of the road.
A close up view of the Lord. (http://www.wikimapia.org/8347610/Bhaurveer-Hanuman-Temple)
On the right side of the road, I came across a two storey building that included, among other engineering classes, an institute of languages. I parked the cycle and clicked a photo. A teacher came out of the gate and talked to me. It transpired that in addition to English, Korean language is being taught in this school! Now, I understand why so many boards in Khajuraho are in Korean script in addition to many other scripts non decipherable by me! The next few photos (taken in the night) support my theory.
Is that the Korean script at the top?
How about the scripts in the board of the Palmist. The palmist, Dr. Rawat, seem to want to attract the foreign clientale too, in contrast to the physicians.
Does the Amy's International Cafe has a special invitation to the Koreans? How about the script in the board on lower right corner of the board. The Devnagri script reads "Bhojanalay" (diner). What about the other script? I have seen Hebrew script (meant for Israelies) in many hotels of Himachal Pradesh, but not Korean or the other script that I cannot recognise :-(
Here is the board of the Marwari Diner by the side of the Museum.
Even Jain lodge has 'non-Indic' script (Roman [English] script almost Indian ;-) ]. OK, enough of unknown (to me) scripts. Let us proceed with the picture story.
I came to a junction (named Gandhi chowk - http://www.wikimapia.org/8347668/Gandhi-chowk) that had 5 roads leading out of the junction. A garlanded statue of Mahatma Gandhi being led by a young lad is at the centre of the garden in the traffic island.
Further down, there was an attractive building : "kuber", meaning 'wealth'. A night view of the same building (that I clicked on my way back) is in the next photo.
A night view of the attractive building- Kuber - in Khajuraho. Closeby was a school of tourism management in the tourist town of Khajuraho.
Finally, I reached the main gate of the Jain temple cluster complex. There was a museum on the left. I decided to view the temples first and decide about the museum later.
This was the first temple in the complex. The colourful flag of Jain religion can be seen. There is a Jain Dharmshala to the right of the camera.
The entrance of the first temple (Shantinath Temple). The watchman was practically dozing, but was alert to see that visitors removed shoed and other leather materials before they entered the temple. To the right of the door was a signboard about Jainism (see the next photo).
The board that informs the reader: "Jainism: What it implies".
Inside the temple building was an exhibition of Jain art and architecture.
Yaksha and Yakshi (heavenly residents)
The main deity of the 'Digambar' (sky-clad) sect of Jains.
A view of the other temples in the complex.
Although there are about 20 temples, the temples dedicated to Parshwanath and Adinath (22nd and the 1st of the 24 Jain prophets) are the biggest.
Parshwanath Temple.
The Adinath Temple (left) and Parshwanath temple (on right).
Info plaque of Adinath Temple.
The Adinath Temple.
Sculptures on the wall of the Adinath temple.
The inner view of the Adinath temple.
A close up of the main idol in black stone.
Another smaller temple dedicated, again, to Adinath (temple no. 8). A foreigner was playing some tunes; his cohort was reading a book; it was so peaceful.
The Parshwanath Temple at the centre of cluster of smaller temples (in white).
The info plaque of the Parshwanath Temple (circa 10the century A.D.).
Another view of Parshwanath Temple.
A couple in love.
The idols of Jain apostles among erotic pictures of couples.
I returned from the Jain temple complex. I saw a group of boys playing cricket on the road in front of 'Saraswati Shishu Mandir' school (http://www.wikimapia.org/12765642/Saraswati-Shishu-Mandir-Khajuraho). Note a girl (in white shirt and yellow 'trousure' and walking on the road) carrying green fodder. Contrast the lives of boys and girls in India!
At the junction, I moved left for the "Duladev" temple. I saw a group of donkey carrying sand.
A closer look.
In front of the donkey (and on the right side of the road) was an animal hospital run by the Government. The board proclaims a saying in Sanskrit: "pashuh sevam aham dharmah" (service of animals is our duty). Of course, the clinic was closed (it was close to 5pm).
A view of 'Duladev' temple and its vast lawns from the road (http://www.wikimapia.org/8347928/Dulhadev-Temple)
I noticed a fresh bunch of leaves on a tree outside the boundary. These red coloured leaves are yet to synthesise chlorofil (and attain green colour).
A view of Duladeo temple. I had to climb a mound and stretch my arms high up to position the camera for this shot. After a couple of shots, I stopped at this attempt (and corrected a slight tilt using picasa).
A group of women are returning after visiting the temple.
The information plaque of the Duladeo temple (12th century A.D.), dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Layers of sculptures on the outer wall of the temple.
Close up of erotic sculptures on the 'Duladeo' temple, Khajuraho.
Well maintained lawns of the temple.
A small linga near the shore of the river Khudar. Note the reflection of trees in the stationary water due to a checkdam at the bridge.
On the shore of the river and just outside the temple boundary was a pump house (probably it supplies water to the Khajuraho town). A view of 'Duladeo temple' from the pump house. Then, an incident happened that is worth sharing. Two high schoolboys came on a cycle. The younger boy asked me for a pen with with I was making some note. I gave the pen thinking that he wanted to write something and he did not have his pen. The boy started testing the pen by writing on his hand and started moving away. I got suspicious and asked the boy why does he need the pen. By his response, I realised that he wanted me to gift him the pen! That was the only pen I had with me and I needed the pen for making notes of the places I saw and pictures I clicked. So, I sheepishly took the pen back after explaining my predicament. The boy then asked for money to buy a pen ('Sir, I do not have a pen'). I had only 3 Rs. apart from 100 Rs. note. I gave him the coins that I had and he walked away. Even later, some boys asked me for a pen!
After visiting the 'Duladeo temple', I retraced my path and went to see 'Ghantai Temple' (http://www.wikimapia.org/14855849/Ghantai-Temple). The door to the enclosure was looked. I had to satisfy by looking at the temple from outside the fence. An info board of the temple.
The Ghantai temple (or its remnants) circa: 10th century A.D.
A close-up of the bells on the temple pillars, that gave rise to the name 'ghantai' (bell).
The Ghantai temple belongs to Digambar Jain sect, according to the info board, which is represented by 16 auspicious symbols on the door lintel.
A girl was happy to receive a polo and pose for the photo along with her grandma near the Ghantai temple.
The next day morning, I went to see 'Brahma' temple (http://www.wikimapia.org/14855699/Brahma-Temple). It was on the shore of 'Norore' lake (according to a map by 'maps of India'). Note my bicycle standing. The door of the temple was locked. A group of boys (partially visible in this photo) playing near the temple told me that I could get a better view if I go to rear of the temple; indeed, the modern wire frame was broken and I could peep in. The next photo of 4-faced 'Brahma', the creator of living beings, was taken with a flash.
The photo of 4-faced 'Brahma', the creator of living beings. After this photo, the boys asked for pen first, then for chocolates. I did not have either to spare. I could not see a shop in the vicinity either. An elder man scolded the boys for pestering me. I told 'theek hai' to the elder man. I wanted to thank the boys for showing the wantage point for a better view of the idol. I gave 10 rupees to the eldest boy and asked him to buy polo and give to the kids. A younger boy offered to get buy the polo and bring for distribution by me. I did not have the time (and patience); so, I ignored the younger boy and hoped that the elder boy will do the justice. Later, in the day, I was returned along the same road after visiting two other temples. The younger boy and his friend told me that the older one did not give them polo. I was not sure whether they were telling the truth or not. Then, I saw another batch of boys running towards me. I pedalled my bicycle hard and ran away from them :-)
About 100 metres away, an unpaved road on the right side of the paved road, leads to the 'Javari temple'. Location map: http://www.wikimapia.org/14803487/Jawari-temple An auto was ferrying a tourist and had to break as a holy cow came on the road.
The info board of the 'Javari temple' (circa: 1075 A.D.)
The front view.
Lord Vishnu
Sculptures
A mother holding a baby: Javari temple, Khajuraho.
Erotic sculptures on the outer walls of Javari Temple, Khajuraho.
Info board of Vaman Temple (location map: http://www.wikimapia.org/8347968/Vaman-Temple).
Vamana Temple, Khajuraho; a view from outside the compound.
An attempt at a black and white (gray) photo.
A recurring theme (killing a strange creature) in sculptures of Khajuraho temples.
A lady removing thorn from her sole: Vamana temple, Khajuraho.
Lines on a granite step of Vamana Temple, forming squares and triangles; this is used for play.
Erotic sculptures : Vamana Temple, Khajuraho.
The tourist interpretation and Facilitation centre, Khajuraho (http://www.wikimapia.org/9700215/Tourist-Interpretation-Center). Every day evening, cultural dance is held in this centre.
A board at the tourist centre.
I visited 'Adivart', a tribal and flok art museum (location: http://www.wikimapia.org/14803621/Tribal-museum), a rarely visited place. The caretaker was happy to see me. The board of the museum is placed a little away from the gate. I was not sure whether the gate led to the museum or to the nearby hotel. I bought a ticket for Rs. 10.
Photography is prohibited inside the museum. So, I did not take any photos. I bought a couple of greeting cards (Rs. 30 each) and an info sheet that has some the photos of the artifacts inside. The pictures on the greeting cards I bought. The one on the left is an 'Uraon' Woman and the one on the right is 'Karoo Deo' according to the legends on the greeting cards.
An example of defunct/unclear rules and boards. Notice a board at the centre right of the photo (begins 'soochana') and another board (left centre) by the tourism department.
The order by the Collector (administrator) of Chatarpur district, declares that this gate will remain closed between 6am and 8pm (day time). This has not been true, atleast on the two days I was ther. Also, note that the right wing of the metal gate is broken; only the rod is clinging to the hinge! How can anyone enforce a closure of the road? After a few days, I began to think that the board means "no entry" during day time (and not closure of gate/road).
This picture (vehicles coming out and a motor cycle taking right turn) seem to support my interpretation.
The left side board shows the direction to MP tourism hotels and the sound and light show venue. This board should have been 100 metres further away at the T-junction. There was no road to the left (that would lead to Hotel Jhankar) at this point. I wanted to attend the sound and light show and I was getting late. I followed the directions on this board, decided to return after walking for a few minutes along a road. I followed the map I had; the latter turned out to be correct.
Shops and clinics on the ground floor of a historic building.
