Haul-up line of rudder-plate kept the same
Using smoother rope and different connection point for haul-down rudder-line allows lowering of rudder with less force now
Will see if this is the final rudder solution
Sculling-hole revised
Fitting outboard to dory avoiding outboard-well. Note: angle at wooden support required to get vertical shaft of outboard
Here one can see wedge to be able to get vertical outboard-shaft
Did some changes on rudder again to optimize lowering and lifting rudder
Changed rudder. Upper pintle lowered to allow for proper sculling-hole. Rudder-ropes/blocks/hardware changed to get better leverage to lower/lift kick-up-rudder
Sculling-hole drilled
Cutting sculling-hole. Previous sculling-notch was not suitable for proper sculling but pintle was placed high to allow first-version-rudder. Pintle now lowered and place for proper sculling-hole is now free
Motor lifted for beaching. Note: long tiller is optional from Torqueedo. On the Dory this works fine as it allows me to sit more forward in the boat and thus the nose keeps down
Reinforced bracket works fine now
Running 5 knots with electric motor See 2 videos on YouTube: http://youtu.be/ETqHjZaNg9c http://youtu.be/3qyS-9xPW3Q
Reinforced motor-bracket
Changed and reinforced bracket by doubling bracket-plate with less leverage-height and additional steel-bolts. This is working very well !
Motor taken into boat as bracket failed. Good to have oars always on board!
Bracket-failure!! Leverage of motor too big, force of motor thoo high for that! Bracket-plate too high and not wide enough. Needs reinforcement and different geometrical layout! Note alos blue safety-line where motor is secured. Without this line motor could have sunken onto ground of 100 meter deep lake
Dry-test Torqueedo 1003 on Dory with experimental-bracket. WARNING: This bracket was not strong enough for motor due to structural errors in my design! See more pictures with changes I did to make it work.
WARNING: This bracket was not strong enough for motor due to structural errors in my design! See more pictures with changes I did to make it work. Oiling outboard-bracket. Will test Torqueedo 1003 on my Dory and this is the bracket I will use for this test
WARNING: This bracket was not strong enough for motor due to structural errors in my design! See more pictures with changes I did to make it work.
Backboard-side of outboard bracket
WARNING: This bracket was not strong enough for motor due to structural errors in my design! See more pictures with changes I did to make it work. Some wooden dowels to reinforce bracket. Bottom-up-view. Outboard will hang on starboard side
WARNING: This bracket was not strong enough for motor due to structural errors in my design! See more pictures with changes I did to make it work. Gluing outboard-bracket
Patepluma, one year after first launch
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam: Plaque with chinoiserie Year c. 1680-1700 Unknown artist Faience blue painted in the glaze A river full of pleasure boats, circus attractions on the riverbank, happy people everywhere: this large wall decoration gives a festive view of life in China.
Hold-Down installed (made of two pieces of 6 mm ply-scrap). To remove rudder, Hold-Down is turned about 90 degrees. This allows pintle to pass. Note new line 6 mm diameter and now less elastic comparerd with previous yellow line. Now automatic cleat works perfect and if I hit the rudder cleat opens as it should "without a blow". Reason for this improvement: Larger diameter of line and less elasticity of line
Now rudder-project is finished. Still to be tested in the water, but I think it will be ok now
Now "Hold-Down" is installed. Moves freely around the stainless-steel centerbolt but due to gravity keeps this position blocking pintle
Capatan Moises is fixing first plywood piece to dory-transom with 3 stainless steel wood screws
Rudder "Hold-Down" prepared and oiled (made of two pieces of 6 mm ply-scrap).
Hold-Down (made of two pieces of 6 mm ply-scrap). Note stainless steel bolt in axis connecting the two pieces.
The famous automatic release-cleat. (Here "open released position). Yellow line fixed to that in closed position
Not yet final version. Did some changes again as haul-down ist still not perfect . See later pictues
Not yet completed and still do be done: - Install "Hold-Down" to avoid that rudder gets unintentionally free from the pintles if rudder hits something and moves it upwards - Change yellow line. This line has too much stretch, need to change to line which does not tension and change to 6 mm line (movement/energy should go as far as possible directly to automatic cleat and not via elasticity of line where the line gives free energy "in a blow" if cleat opens (finally and too late))
Did some changes after experimenting with automatic release-cleat on yellow line: - Yellow line: Block moved upwards to avoid high friction in tiller-holes. Fairlead replacing block at bottom. - Blue line: Drilled new hole parallel to rudder-blade. Line now higher on the rudder, "in the wake of the aft edge of rudder, with less friction if down in the water
Yellow downhaul-line guided by small block. Still needs cleats on tiller to keep pulling-load in order to fix rudder position. Will change the location of this block as friction is mainly in the tiller-holes!
Captain Moises downhauling rudder using yellow line. Still need to install cleats on tiller to fix/block lines
Captain Moises checking his new kick-up-rudder: Yellow line, 5 mm downhaul Blue line, 4 mm uphaul
Fairleads: 2 simple holes in tiller
Position: Rudder up. Note: Here one can see why small block for downhaul is required
Looks about right: Rudder down position
Eye-bolt fixed on rudder is knotted to downhaul. Small turnable block is guiding yellow 5 mm downhaul-line
Installing small block for downhaul. Blue: Uphaul Yellow: Downhaul
Pivot-bolt: 2 nuts countered and also some Locktite to avoid loss of rudder
Connecting rudder to cheeks and pivot with countersunk Torx-bolts. Fix bolts with Loctite
2.5 mm stainless-steel cheeks will be fixed using bushing and screws installed on both cheeks
Rudder oiled
Rudder shape complete
Shaping rudder using belt-sander
Rudder straps made of stainless steel. Notch cutted in rudder-head for flush surface
Simple holes in Tiller will be used for up/down-haul (as in Iain Oughtred´s book: "Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual"
Rudder-position: Up
Template for cheeks: To be made using stainless steel sheets
Rudder-position: Down
"Footstep": Hope this wil assist me in getting into boat from transom in case of capsize
Check using a template before cutting!
Shims (2 x 6 mm ply) glued onto rudder
Rudder kicked-up. Only temporary situation shown: Upper part of 10 mm rudder-ply not yet shaped to final size as reinforcing-shims (2x6 mm ply, see precut parts on the left of picture) will be epoxied on 10 mm rudder-ply first
Kick-up-rudder lower position
Looks about ok
Cutting existing rudder: "It hurts" but must be done to use existing upper part for kick-up rudder
Lower part of rudder. 10 mm marine plywood first-stage-cut
Here my project for the winter: Get rudder changed to "kickup-rudder"
Template in upper position. Now I will be able to cut existing rudder and prepare lower hinged rudder-part
Template in lowered position
Here is the place: Rotation-point of kickup-rudder (get location using a nail and move around until best location is found)
Finding the right pivot-point is essential. Use template (cardboard) to see how it works and how do cut existing rudder and new kick-up part!
This is the idea: Using metal-cheeks to keep upper part of existing rudder. Lower part of rudder will be changed and will pivot on metal-cheeks
Tried to use boom on my sprit rig: Nice to go before the wind, but is in the way for tacking. Will try again next year. This is the last picture on the lake before winter will stop me sailing. Skiing and dreaming about wooden boats-season is now next
Patepluma: anchored
Patepluma anchored
A good solution: Got cardanic fitting to connect hiking-stick with tiller. Got also simple ratchet-block for main-sheet
Landing on sandbank of the river Inn
Landing on river sand-bank
Landed on sand-bank: 10,5 km in about 1 hour and 10 minutes
Ok. No problem. Patepluma has no problems with the river-waves and turbulence. Learned how to do in river: Bow upriver, stern downriver. This gives good rowing position and one sees what is in front
Which way to go? I guess between the 2nd and 3d column from the left
Ready: Put on life-vest first!
First river-experience: Patepluma ready for drifting down the Inn (River)
Traveller works well. Now boat is ready for stronger wind to come
Details of traveller. Stainless steel traveller with steel-block and snaphooks
New solution for problem with main-sheet getting in trouble while tacking: Traveller made of stainless steel
Thinking about changing mainsheet arrangement: How about a different traveller?
It was a great day
180 degree-view
I will have to change that impeder. Gets messed up with main-sheet
First time with nice weather and full sail
Capitan Moises y su barco: Donde vas?
Helm Impeder as used by John Huntingford Source: http://www.dca.uk.com/articles/himpeder.htm
Yes, Patepluma rows and sails. Next time with unreefed sail
Heading back to ramp. Next time will reef properly
Sailing alone. First trial with reefed sail
Strong North-wind is coming up. We set the sail but had no spare time to do any picture: Camera got wet and damaged!! Strong wind and still not enough experience to sail Patepluma. Had to take sail down and row home.
My son Rafael Santiago on the oars. He is getting the hang to row her nicely. Big boat passing: Tirol (Achensee in Austria)
Oars too far apart, Sir? He looks far to serious for having a big time, I think.
Still learning to row?....
Patepluma rows like a dream
Lake in the mountains. Still snow on mountains. Patepluma ready for the Summer
Patepluma: Like a feather in water
Patepluma first time in her element: Water Slip-waggon used to get her loose
Rafael: Wishing Patepluma Good Luck!
Christening Patepluma: Ps 107,23 Sie, die mit Schiffen das Meer befuhren / und Handel trieben auf den großen Wassern, Ps 107,24 die dort die Werke des Herrn bestaunten, / seine Wunder in der Tiefe des Meeres Ps 107,25 - Gott gebot und ließ den Sturmwind aufstehn, / der hoch die Wogen türmte -, Ps 107,26 die zum Himmel emporstiegen / und hinabfuhren in die tiefste Tiefe, / sodass ihre Seele in der Not verzagte, Ps 107,27 die wie Trunkene wankten und schwankten, / am Ende waren mit all ihrer Weisheit, Ps 107,28 die dann in ihrer Bedrängnis schrien zum Herrn, / die er ihren Ängsten entriss Ps 107,29 - er machte aus dem Sturm ein Säuseln, / sodass die Wogen des Meeres schwiegen -, Ps 107,30 die sich freuten, dass die Wogen sich legten / und er sie zum ersehnten Hafen führte: Ps 107,31 sie alle sollen dem Herrn danken für seine Huld, / für sein wunderbares Tun an den Menschen.
Snotter
Brailing-line installed
Sail brailed
Reefed sprit rig. Just testing how it could work
Ship ahoy! Schiff ahoi!
Capitán Moises en su barco
First time sail rigged
"The last nail" (on oars)
Figure 8 knot added to fix halyard to throat
Butterfly knot
Butterfly- knot: Looks difficult but is easy (we live in 3 dimensions only)
Halyard: Using butterfly-knot to fix barrels and sail-throat to mast-top
Patepluma and his builder. Project finished. 8 Month work on evenings and holidays. Rudder elevated only for transport
Mast. First time placed with (almost complete) fittings and leather
Mast fits well into mast-partner
Patepluma ready to go. First time on trailer. Waiting for spring to meet water
Rubber-line holds down centerboard-cover. Booklet I can recommend: Knots & splices, Cyrus L Day, revised by Colin Jarman (Adlard Coles Nautical, London)
Two holes drilled into daggerboard
Rubber-line holds down fid. Trial only ( Finally I changed it for standard rope with clamcleat on stanchion as shown in Iains plans). Wood is pear from my Grandfather, wood aged for 80 years)
Mast partner and fid hanging onto rubber-line
Cover for centerboard case. Fairlead made of chestnut-wood is fairlead. Will be used for pulling down cover using rubber-band
Cover for centerboard case
Winslow Homer Boys in a dory, 1880
Winslow Homer Girl Carrying a Basket, 1882, watercolor over graphite on paper, Gift of Ruth K. Henschel in memory of her husband, Charles R. Henschel
Winslow Homer Dad's Coming, 1873, oil on wood, Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon Homer’s early works, while mainly set outdoors, are almost all figure paintings. This was a conspicuous departure from the type of pure landscape that dominated nineteenth-century American art. Homer spent the summer of 1873 in Gloucester, Massachusetts, where he painted this family of a fisherman awaiting his return.
Winslow Homer: Summer squall, 1905
Winslow Homer: Lost on the Grand Banks, 1885
Cover for centerboard-case
Preparing cover for centerboard-case
Finishing: Installing hardware
Finishing by placing hardware: Oarlocks (rowing position at left, sailing position at right)
Oarlocks stored for sailing
Scarphing-Joints still visible?
Finished painting below waterline
Paint below waterline
Marking waterline with 2 levels
Leathers on Mast and Oars
Sew leathers for oars with whipping
Deks Olje 1 inside and outside. Deks Olje 2 still missing
Fresh paint (oil)
Bow almost finished
Transom oiled. Ash with dark staining = natural
Give spars and oars another layer of oil
Starting to oil exterior of hull after sanding
Sculling notch: Obligatory trade-mark for any Dory (copied from portuguese dory seen at "Deutsches Museum" in Munich
Belaying pin (ashwood) placed on mast-partner. Stainless steel shearbolts drilled through mast-partners (brass-eyebolts used as screw-nuts)
Classical Portuguese Dory as seen yesterday in the "Deutsches Museum" in Munich, Germany
Awesome National Geographic's Special from 1968 for all Dory aficionados. http://www.youtube.com/user/HeikeGanjiro?feature=mhum#p/c/3694E48199271492/0/e8TYEx6db5g
Sculling notch copied from Dory as seen in the "Deutsches Museum" in Munich
Left: Mast-step
Boat inside almost finished. On building frame: Tiller, rudder and daggerboard
Epoxy fillet hull-outside at transom
Prepare for fillet of strakes
Tiller extension using double figure of eight-knot and a cleat (not on picture)
Spar, Mast and Snotter. Snotter for sprit-sail finished. Waiting for sail to arrive
Three strand eye splice for snotter
Lower gudgeon mounted on skeg
Sanding hull from outside. Gudgeons for rudder on tansom and skeg
Sanding hull. Lots of dust
All spars and oars finished, start to paint/oil
Sanding top of sprit
Planing sprit to octagonal shape
Top-end of sprit
Hand-made cleat made of oak. First screw on this boat is here (stainless steel) connecting to mast (pine)
Epoxy hardwood-strips for protection of oar-blade
Plaining oar-blade the traditional way with my fathers plane
Traditional oars. Shaping grips with rasp. Marking is essential. One oar took me about 2.5 hours work all in
One additional pair of oars to be done
William Sidney Mount (American, 1807–1868) Eel Spearing at Setauket, 1845 Oil on canvas; 28 1/2 x 36 in. (72.4 x 91.4 cm) Fenimore Art Museum, Cooperstown, New York (N-395.55) Photograph: Richard Walker More than any other artist of his day, Mount revealed the contradictions and difficulties inherent in the position of African Americans in our society. Here, a strong black woman, very much in control, stands in front of a seated white boy in a small boat, teaching him how to spear flatfish and eels. The painting tells a story from Mount's own boyhood, mingled with the memories of George Washington Strong, his patron. As a boy, Strong had speared eels with a family slave named Rachel in Strong's Neck, the bay named for his family, in Setauket, near Stony Brook on Long Island Sound. Strong commissioned the painting when he was sixty-two, eager to recall his happy youth even as he broached the difficult subject of race. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Inside almost complete. Only hardware is missing
Floorboards placed
Breasthook: Just sealed. Wood: Ash, elm and sapeli-mahogany-plywood
Jam-Cleat, small cleats for mast and fid for mast-partner sealed with Deck´s Olje
Jam-Cleat almost finished. Chestnut from my grandfathers house
Cleat (will be used for fixing rope lifting rudder inside of transom)
inside just painted
Winter is here. Gabe preparing for Ski-Slope
Starting to paint/oil inside of Amberjack
Oil/Paint transom and checking fit of rudder-gear. Wood-staining of transom is natural ash. Ash can show such staining and it looks a little weird, but it is natural staining
Clean-up and sanding interior almos finished. Took a lot of time to get this done. Will have to do some more sanding with fine grain before I can start to put on Dek´s Olje
First time testing how rudder gear fits. Will be taken off again for adaption and painting.
Oak-parts are intended for handling mainsheet. Other pieces in ash: Intended to store oarlocks. Will be glued onto garboards
Winslow Homer: Fog warning Another great video-documentary of cod-fishing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQCMcdpw6r8&feature=player_embedded Robhosailor, thanks for the video-link
The last nail (on railway)
