Our 2008 KZ Spree 240BH-LX is a 24' class trailer that measures 26'9 coupler to bumper and fits perfectly on our driveway. GVWR is 6000 lbs, typically it weighs ~ 5500 lbs loaded and ready to camp.
The optional LX package adds aluminum mag wheels, a larger entry door grab handle, raised wood insert on the fridge door, a foot flush toilet, LCD HD television, and this molded front cap that encloses the two 30 lb propane tanks.
We had preferred to buy a camper with a manual awning but this particular Spree was factory fit with a Carefree of Colorado power awning so we agreed with the dealer to try it for a few months.
After four months of camping we decided to have the original power awning replaced with this Dometic A&E 8500 manual awning. It does take slightly longer to deploy than a power awning but it's much more versatile as it can be used in any weather and be set at any angle to allow rain to roll off, without pooling. Since it drops down at a much more acute angle It's also much easier to secure lights to it and to clean.
When set to it's most acute angle rainwater easily rolls off the manual awning, allowing us to leave it set up even during heavy downpours, with everything underneath remaining totally dry.
2008 KZ Spree 240BH-LX Floorplan. I prefer the simplicity of our 2008 non-slide Spree as I have no worries over slide failure or slide seals leaking water into the trailer. In 2009 KZ reworked this floorplan to include a U shaped slide out dinette but that also made the new 240BHS 18 inches longer and several hundred pounds heavier.
The Recreational Vehicle Specification Nameplate located on the inside of one of the kitchen cabinet doors provides details about our specific trailer.
The two most important weight details about our particular Spree - it's GVWR and UVW as it left the factory.
The VIN nameplate affixed to the trailer street side near the front verifies the trailer's GVWR of 6000 lbs.
The adjacent Tire and Loading Information sticker verifies the trailer's Cargo Carrying Capacity as 1426 lbs ... subtract this from the trailer's GVWR of 6000 lbs and this confirms the trailer's UVW as 4574 lbs as it left the factory.
Adding a 1.5 inch memory foam topper to our Spree's queen size box spring mattress improved comfort considerably while installing cabinet doors on the end of the bed improved access to the storage area below it. The folding privacy divider on the left can be drawn across the width of the trailer to separate the bedroom area from the remainder of the trailer.
Originally there was a folding shelf in this area designed to hold a second TV but I removed it and installed a shoe bag. After first mounting a piece of hardwood to the wall using spring wing toggle bolts I secured the shoe bag to the wood with four screws.
On each side of the bed is a closet that offers ample space for hanging clothes.
Above the bed is yet more cabinet storage space.
To the underside of the cabinet above the bed I've added this LCD clock and LED light so we can easily see the time at night without having to get out of bed to check the dinette clock.
Anytime we're not using A/C this 3 speed Fantastic Vent powered vent fan over the queen bed does a great job of drawing in fresh air or exhausting stale air. Both this vent and the bathroom vent are enclosed with Vent Mate vent covers so both can be left open 24/7 no matter what the weather may be outside.
Looking from the front bedroom is the kitchen, dinette, bunk beds at the rear, and to the right behind the wall with the clock is the bathroom. Above the fridge is an LCD HD television which can be swung out and viewed from anywhere in the camper.
Our Spree's kitchen offers plenty of cabinet storage while a removable cutting board atop the stove provides additional counter space for preparing meals.
I've added a toggle switch to the rear of the radio housing so I can disable the radio entirely when dry camping and eliminate any parasitic draw on the battery by the radio.
A loop of shock cord ensures the two kitchen cabinet doors above the sink don't inadvertently open during travel.
Should a drawer open inadvertently during travel the plastic brackets securing the drawer slides can easily break. To prevent this I use shock cord tensioned just enough to prevent the drawers from opening even on the roughest roads.
Our Spree's "central vac" is an inexpensive ShopVac HangOn vacuum which I secured to an interior divider wall in a lower kitchen cabinet using the supplied bracket. I extended the supplied hose so it now reaches every area of the camper and when not being used is stored under the dinette seat.
I replaced the stock dinette table with one 6 inches longer, allowing us more elbow room, and using just one pedestal leg to support it's weight I secured the table to the wall, completely eliminating any wobble. A Camco 12 vdc 15 watt CFL bulb in the table lamp is as bright as a conventional 60 watt incandescent bulb but draws far less power and since it's powered by the trailer's 12 volt system the lamp can be used whether we have an electric site or we're dry camping.
Above the dinette table is yet more cabinet storage. During travel a length of lightly tensioned shock cord ensures the overhead cabinet doors don't open inadvertently.
Adding a 1/4" mono jack to the light fixture mounted to the underside of the cabinets that sit over the dinette table allows me to power my table lamp which is fitted with a 12 vdc CFL bulb directly from the camper's 12 volt electrical system.
This rechargeable Coleman lantern is safe for use inside the camper but the light emitted is really glaring so I removed the globe & top and replaced the globe with a clear peanut butter jar in which I cut a couple of slots to secure a small lampshade.
The furnace is located under the dinette seat beside the trailer's outside wall and draws air in through the louvered end panel at this end of the seat. I added hinges to this end panel so I could use this otherwise unused space for storing my central vac hose.
Installing a piece of vinyl coated wire shelving was the perfect solution for preventing the stored hose from contacting the furnace.
Between the front bedroom and dinette is this triple shelf pantry which we've found just the right size for storing food items.
The large bathroom vanity offers plenty of storage space but was supplied with just one mirrored cabinet door on the right side so I added another on the left.
To prevent taller containers from falling over in the cabinet when traveling I've added dividers to the lower shelf.
The shower stall is typical of those found in most trailers and sure beats having to trek to a campground bath house facility.
Above the shower stall is a skylight which really opens up the space and allows in considerable light.
I've mounted a bar in the shower, over the tub, where we can hang wet jackets, etc, to dry. I've used 1 inch aluminum tubing which when not being used can be lifted out of the plastic holders mounted to opposite walls of the shower enclosure.
A wet jacket dries quickly and because it's hanging in the shower water just drips into the tub where it can do no harm.
I added a 1/4 turn shut off valve mid way along the shower hose where it would be easy to operate with soapy hands. Using this "navy shower" technique allows us to minimize fresh water use and reduce the amount of grey water produced.
To install the water shut off valve I simply cut the hose in half and inserted a Dahl Mini-Ball 1/4 Turn Valve, Part #121-PX3-PX3.
The Spree 240BH-LX features a unique triple bunk bed design in which the 32 inch wide upper and lower beds run the full width of the trailer while the 28 inch x 75 inch middle bed runs along the curb side of the trailer. The four drawer dresser is perfect for clothes storage and while the lower area behind the larger cabinet door is occupied by the DSI water heater the shelf above it easily holds a dozen towels.
We have no need for the middle bunk bed so I removed it to open up the area at the rear of the trailer, adding Sterilite drawers for storing bulky items such as sweaters and jeans.
Another view of the space opened up by removing the unused middle bunk bed.
Lightly tensioned shock cord prevents the drawers from opening during travel.
An expandable curtain rod mounted between the bathroom wall and curbside trailer wall allowed me to hang this privacy curtain that can be pulled aside when not in use.
Plastic cups (from Home Depot) secured to each wall prevent the expanding curtain rod from shifting.
I improved water pump performance by replacing the stock pump with a ShurFlo WhisperKing, mounting it on a rubber mouse pad and wrapping any PEX tubing I could reach with foam pipe wrap. I also installed a ShurFlo accummulation tank (hidden under the brown board at the top of this pic) to reduce pump cycling.
This 12vdc Endless Breeze fan is particularly handy for road side lunch time stops during the summer when we don't have electrical power for running A/C but would like a little breeze inside the camper while we're eating. When dry camping it serves to keep the air moving nicely inside the camper.
Our Spree is equipped with a Suburban SW6DE gas / electric water heater but the switch for turning on the electric element is inconvenient to use because it's mounted on the water heater itself and can only be accessed from outside the camper by opening the WH hatch door. To solve this issue I installed this switch on the wall near the fridge where we can conveniently reach it.
I replaced the stock analogue Coleman thermostat with this Hunter digital model that's easy to read and more accurately controls both heating and cooling set temperatures. The thermo has only one fan speed position on the switch so I added a DPST switch that allows the A/C fan to run on either low or high speed.
Since we we normally camp on electric sites we use this very quiet Bionaire ceramic heater as our primary source of heat, often only using the propane furnace to augment it when the outside temperatures really begin to drop.
Since low voltage is common during the hot summer months when everyone wants to run their A/C I've made it a habit to first check the available campsite voltage before plugging in the trailer's main service cable using this custom cable for my multi meter that plugs directly into one of the campsite power post outlets.
I added a surface mount duplex receptacle to our camper's kitchen wall so I could locate this AC line meter where it can easily be seen to monitor incoming source voltage. This meter (Prime Products, Model 12-4058) also checks for correct polarity and indicates faults such as an open neutral or open ground.
When parked at home I always keep our Spree plugged in as the power requirements are minimal. This energy meter can measure not only source voltage but also power consumption in both amperes and watts of any device plugged into it, including the entire camper. If I want to run the A/C on a hot day the meter confirms that the total current draw is still well within the limits of a standard 120 vac 15 amp circuit.
In this pic I've switched the Energy Meter to read Maximum Watts which is well below the 1800 watts available from a 120 vac 15 amp circuit.
Installing this Marinco main service disconnect kit eliminated the tedious task of trying to stuff the main service cable back through the mouse hole.
With the trailer parked on our driveway so the tongue clears the sidewalk there's still enough room at the rear to allow the swing up garage door to be opened fully. I moved the spare tire which is normally secured to the bumper with a bracket into the front storage compartment to further reduce the length of the trailer.
The large rear cargo door offers access to the huge storage area under the lower bed.
The rear cargo door easily clears the house.
Opening the rear cargo door reveals the lower bunk bed and cargo storage area below it.
Raising the lower bunk bed allows full access to the rear cargo storage compartment.
Looking to the left.
Looking to the right.
Four 7 gal Aquatainers I use for off loading the trailer's grey water holding tank nest together perfectly in this rear cargo location where they're out of sight, out of mind but within easy reach whenever I might need them. Red electrical tape on each tank handle identifies these tanks for grey/black water use only.
This clothes rack mounts to the rear bumper while we're camping and surprisingly doesn't interfere with opening the rear cargo door.
I mounted clear Lexan panels to the screen door, allowing us to always leave the main entry door open for more light into the camper yet still run A/C in hot weather and heat in cold weather.
Our Spree's front cargo compartment can be accessed from either side of the trailer via 36 inch x 12 inch doors. I use the curbside area for storing all our camp chairs, table, bumper clothes rack, awning clamps, etc.
From the street side of the trailer I have plenty of space for any trailer setup and servicing items I may want to carry.
This polyester weave under awning ground mat is several years old but is wearing well, is easy to sweep clean, and dries quickly as water easily drains through the weave.
Rope lighting secured to the awning's roller tube provides just the right amount of soft lighting during the evening hours.
Our Spree has a gas oven but during the hot summer months we often instead use this electric convection oven sitting outside on the camp table where it won't unnecessarily heat up the camper interior.
After 8 camping seasons we've replaced our venerable Weber Q100 with a new Q120 which retains the aluminum shell, stainless steel 8500 BTU burner, and porcelain coated cast iron cooking grill of the original but also adds a higher domed top shell, temperature gauge, flip out side tables, and electronic ignition.
The Weber Q120's porcelain coated cast iron grill cooks evenly and provides ample cooking space for our family of four.
Our new Q120 cooks just as well as our previous Q100. Sweet!
When not in use our Weber Q120 stores nicely in this Rubbermaid bin, protecting the grill from dirt & bugs and retaining any grease smell inside the bin.
The Weber Q120 storage bin sits nicely under the trailer where it's out of the way and out of sight.
Although our Spree has a three burner inside stove we prefer to mostly cook outdoors, a task that is easily handled by this stand alone Coleman two burner propane stove. Below the aluminum camp table is a 10 lb aluminum propane tank, fitted with a QCC-1 T so I can simultaneously feed both this stove and our Weber Q120 camping grill.
One leg of the QCC-1 T feeds a short QCC-1 hose that runs up to the Coleman stove above while a 25 foot hose with 1-20 fittings at each end is connected to the other leg and feeds our Weber Q120 camping grill.
The output end of the QCC-1 stove hose has a male 1-20 fitting that threads into the Coleman camp stove's gas input.
The output end of the 25 foot hose has a male 1-20 fitting that threads on to the Weber Q120's gas input.
When not using our Weber Q120 I disconnect the hose, cap it, and loop it around the rear bumper where it's out of the way.
This containment box safely stores two tiki torch lamp oil canisters, a spare container of lamp oil, and a spare 16 oz propane canister.
Our current tow vehicle - 2005 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L, 4x2, 3.42 axle, GVWR 6800 lbs, Trailer Tow Rating 7300 lbs, GCWR 13,000 lbs. A very comfortable family vehicle that easily tows our 5500 lb KZ Spree.
Brady inspects his truck seat. The base is a plastic milk crate turned upside down ... to that I secured two pieces of 3/4" plywood and finished it in black enamel paint and carpet.
Brady's truck seat provided him with his own personal space in our Silverado without crowding the remaining passenger seat areas. The vertical piece prevented him from moving forward into the front passenger area.
Brady's truck seat fits our 2005 Avalanche just as perfectly as it did our previous 2006 Silverado.
As I did before with our 2006 Silverado I installed a set of GM towing mirrors which offer a rock solid image. The stock electric mirrors extend out 12 inches, these manual mirrors in the collapsed mode extend out 15 inches.
When towing my GM towing mirrors extend out a total of 18 inches so I can easily see along both sides of the trailer.
During the winter when I'm not towing we prefer to use the stock electric mirrors but they were wired by GM with the connector behind the door panel. To make it quicker to reinstall these mirrors I wired in these easily accessible 6-pin connectors for each mirror.
This Peak wireless back up camera system includes the camera with license plate mounting, transmitter (not seen in this pic), and 7 inch colour monitor.
I mounted the Peak wireless transmitter in this plastic box, providing strain relief to protect the delicate connectors.
The transmitter box is secured inside the vehicle's rear cargo box with Velcro and I've wired in 12vdc from the cargo compartment light which I can turn on/off from the driver's position, thereby turning the transmitter on/off.
When not in use I simply Velcro the camera to the transmitter box rather than leave it outside exposed to the elements.
I prefer the view of the hitch from this angle, with the camera pointing down at the hitch ball, so I secure it to the tailgate handle with Velcro. If left outside condensation can fog the camera lens so when not being used I store the camera inside our Avalanche's cargo compartment along with the transmitter where they're both protected from the elements.
Since I usually just use my Peak camera for hitching up I've found it easiest to leave the monitor Velcro'd to the sunshade and connect power only as needed ... the rest of the time it folds up out of the way along with the sunshade.
The hitch ball can easily been seen and lining it up with the trailer's coupler is spot on every time.
1000 / 10,000 lb Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch also provides 4 point sway control while the electric tongue jack makes hitching up quite easy.
For towing our Spree I use a 1000 / 10,000 lb Equal-i-zer weight distribution system that features four point sway control as a function of it's design, therefore eliminating the need for a separate sway bar. No drilling of the trailer frame is required and once set up correctly the Equal-i-zer works really well.
Equal-i-zer owners often complain of groaning and popping noises, especially at low speeds, but I've solved the problem with my own Equal-i-zer by spraying the L brackets and head contact points with this dry film lubricant called Slip Plate which is sold by Tractor Supply Company. It's specifically designed for metal sliding surfaces and hasn't negatively affected my Equal-i-zer's ability to provide 4 point sway control.
Krown T40 works superbly for lubricating the stabilizers and doesn't attract dirt as does grease.
This Sherline tongue weight scale offers a convenient method of periodically checking the trailer's gross tongue weight.
Measuring tongue weight with the Sherline tongue weight scale. For an accurate reading it's imperative that the trailer be sitting level, as it should be when towing.
Sherline scale positioned under the coupler, with no load.
Lowering the coupler on to the scale shows a gross tongue weight of 750 lbs, which works out to ~ 13.6% of the trailer's typical gross weight of ~ 5500 lbs.
Since our driveway slopes significantly down to the street the tongue jack won't extend far enough to level the trailer so I built this two section tongue jack support with outriggers. With so many kids in the neighbourhood I also place adjustable aluminum jack stands as safety supports under the trailer's main frame members to back up the tongue jack in the unlikely event it should ever fail.
I originally mounted my Hoppy level on the trailer tongue but I'd sometimes find condensation inside the housing so I've moved it to inside the front storage compartment where I can still read the bubble scale but where condensation is no longer an issue.
I built this dual purpose Trailer Lights Dongle so when camping I can plug our trailer's Bargman connector into it and in RUN mode power the trailer's running lights, which aids immensely in locating our camper on a really dark night. FLASH mode allows the trailer's running lights to flash in a case where I might have to leave the trailer at the side of the road, or when backing up on a busy roadway.
I mounted the dongle components to the box lid but cut off the rear portion of the Bargman connector so it would fit easily into the box which measures ~ 4.75 inches x 3.25 inches x 2.25 inches. The flasher was secured in place using epoxy glue.
Trailer lights dongle wiring diagram.
Electric tongue jack with a vinyl grout bag turned inside out to protect it from the elements, a G24 battery box which is bolted to the tongue platform and contains my Fresh Water Transfer Pump, then a larger battery box which is also bolted to the tongue platform and secured with a heavy duty cable lock. Dual 30 lb propane tanks are hidden behind the trailer's molded front cap.
On the rear battery box I mounted a Bargman connector and Toggle Switch to create a switched 12vdc utility feed for powering any device that may run on 12vdc. This same switched feed is also wired back to a second Bargman mounted next to the grey & black water waste gates so it can be used to power my Flojet Waste Macerator Pump.
Trailer tongue - mockup of curb side. For the 2012 season I've added a Blue Sea Master Disconnect switch to the main battery box (bottom left) that disconnects the main battery from the trailer and rewired the key switch (top right) so it controls power to just the tongue jack.
Trailer tongue - mockup of curb side while camping. While towing a spare G27 battery in it's own box will travel in the back of our Avalanche, while camping it can sit atop the main trailer battery box where it's available for use anytime.
Trailer tongue - mockup of street side. For the 2012 season I wired the Fresh Water Transfer Pump to a 7 pin Bargman mounted on the pump box, with power to the pump controlled by the toggle switch located just below. Power is supplied by the main battery charge cable which is plugged into this connector (as shown) or by the spare battery which is also equipped with a similar charge cable.
Trailer tongue - mockup of street side while camping. When not in use the spare battery charge cable simply sits inside the Fresh Water Transfer Pump box where it's protected from the elements while the main battery charge cable is plugged into the pump connector. Since both are 7 pin Bargman connectors either battery can be used to power the pump.
I modified my deep cycle battery charger by cutting the original cable and wiring on a set of matching 7 pin Bargman connectors, with the vehicle end fitting inside the charger case when not in use. On the right are two custom charge cables, one for the main trailer battery and the other for the spare, allowing me to charge these batteries without having to open the battery boxes.
For the 2012 season I wired in a new Blue Sea Battery Disconnect Switch to the main battery and rewired the Key Switch to control just the tongue jack. I also wired a charge cable directly to the battery's + / - terminals so I can recharge the battery with my genset & stand alone battery charger without having to remove the battery from the box. All wiring is 8 AWG to minimize voltage loss due to wire resistance.
Dry camping is a lot more practical now that we have a Honda EU2000i inverter genset to recharge the trailer batteries and on occasion power an appliance such as the toaster, coffee machine, hair dryer, etc.
The interior length, width, and shape of this Rubbermaid bin Model 2215 is perfect for storing our Honda EU2000i generator.
Cutting a rectangular hole in the bin lid provided clearance for the generator's handle and gas cap, allowing the lid to be firmly snapped on to the bin.
After cutting the sidewall edges off a second lid I secured a layer of double sided tape around the edge.
In this pic I've placed the second lid on top of the first.
The completed bin lid shown from the underside. Small 3/8" flat head bolts with cap nuts placed around the perimeter secure the lower & upper lids firmly together.
The finished storage bin for our Honda EU2000i generator.
My Fresh Water Transfer Pump is a stock ShurFlo Classic potable water pump which I've mounted in this G24 battery box bolted to a 1/2 inch plywood tongue platform that secures to the trailer's A frame.
Fresh Water Transfer Pump's intake and output are routed to the outside of the box for easy connection to the intake and output hoses. Since this pic was taken I've added a 7 pin Bargman connector to the pump box and wired the pump to the connector via a toggle switch mounted just below the Bargman.
Our Avalanche offers dry and locked cargo space for my fresh water Aquatainers and Weber Q120 storage box, leaving plenty of room for our under awning ground mat, lounge chairs, firewood, campsite torches, 10 lb propane tank, etc.
After filling my fresh water Aquatainers at the campground fill station I transfer the water into the trailer's fresh water holding tank with my Fresh Water Transfer Pump which is mounted on the trailer tongue.
This fresh water draw tube ensures each Aquatainer is completely emptied by the Fresh Water Transfer Pump.
During setup I run the fresh water transfer pump's output hose back to the trailer's fresh water gravity fill intake where it remains for the duration of our stay. When not in use the short intake hose is looped around the tongue jack. Filling the trailer's fresh water tank is as simple as placing the draw tube into a full Aquatainer and turning on the pump switch.
A short length of clear hose is inserted into the trailer's fresh water gravity fill intake.
The short length of clear hose inside the gravity fill intake ensures the hose remains in place and seals the intake from bugs.
The Avalanche's side cargo compartments are perfect for storing water hoses.
When not camping I can either leave my Aquatainers in our Avalanche's covered and locked cargo compartment or as shown here store them on my garage wall with the caps off to allow the tanks to dry thoroughly.
We don't often bother taking bikes but have found that when we do the KISS principle works best, with our two bikes simply propped at an angle against the front bed where we've found they don't shift in the slightest.
Improved Valterra waste gates installed by my dealer are a significant improvement over the original cable actuated waste gates that were difficult to operate and often stuck.
I added a Bargman connector near the waste gates as a more convenient means of providing 12vdc power for powering my Flojet Waste Macerator Pump.
To avoid campground dump station lineups I instead service our Spree's holding tanks at home using this 12 vdc powered FloJet Waste Macerator Pump to macerate and pump black and grey water out through a 3/4 inch hose (on the left) which feeds into the house sewer stack. The Flojet also has a built in anti siphon back flush connection (on the right) to allow for back flushing the tanks if desired. While camping I'm also able to offload tank contents into a set of grey/black water Aquatainers sitting in our Avalanche's cargo compartment which can later be emptied at the campground dump station.
At home the output hose running from the Flojet Waste Macerator Pump is inserted into this intake stack which I installed outside the house and connected to the main sewer stack located in the basement.
Inside the basement I connected the intake stack to the main plumbing stack using ABS pipe and a T.
Although our Spree's black water tank flusher does help clean the tank I still prefer to put this tank sprayer down the toilet throat as a final step to give the tank a thorough cleaning.
Once the tanks thoroughly cleaned this is what the water coming from the Flojet Waste Macerator Pump looks like!
Once I'm finished cleaning the tanks I simply cap the intake stack and roll up the hose so it's ready for the next time I may want to use it.
I prefer using Lynx Levelers to level my Spree side to side but to prevent them from shifting or cracking when sitting on uneven ground surfaces I secured a layer of Lynx to a length of 3/4 inch thick plywood. Adding a second and third Lynx layer creates more lift, while a BAL single tire chock locked around one of the tires secures the trailer firmly. Three levels of Lynx, along with the thickness of the base plate, is the most lift I've ever needed on the low side.
I found it worthwhile to also carry a second 3/4 inch thick base plate with no Lynx mounted to it that I can use under the high side tires for those times I want to fine tune how level the trailer is sitting. A second BAL single tire chock wraps around one of these tires as well to help firmly lock down the trailer.
Each base plate is 70 inches long and is finished in gloss black enamel paint to protect it from the elements. One has 8 Lynx secured to it while the base plate with no Lynx can be used to elevate the high side a bit, thereby fine tuning the side to side leveling.
Each Lynx is secured to the base plate with four #14 x 2 inch wood screws which I countersunk into each of four holes in each Lynx. Countersinking is necessary so the screw heads won't interfere with stacking a second layer of Lynx atop the first.
The trick to ensuring the screws hold the Lynx securely to the wood base plate is to first run each screw through a 1.5 inch length of vinyl tubing (1/4 inch I.D. x 3/8 inch O.D.) As each screw is tightened down the tubing expands within the hole in the Lynx, gripping the Lynx securely. No additional securement such as adhesive is required, which in turn means the Lynx can be removed at any time if I want to repaint the base plate or even replace any of the Lynx.
Since each base plate is 70 inches long I cut them in half and hinged each in the middle so they would fold for easier storage.
The hinges are countersunk into the underside of the base plate.
This side view shows how each base plate folds to a compact package just 35 inches long x 10 inches wide ... the low side Lynx version on the left is 4.5 inches thick, the high side on the right is just 1.5 inches thick, so they're both easy to carry and take little room in the trailer to store when not in use.
I store my Lynx leveling system and a box of spare Lynx in our Spree's rear cargo storage area where they're easy to access. The weight helps offset the weight of the spare tire which I prefer to store in the trailer's front storage compartment rather than hanging off the rear bumper.
Many use FRS / GMRS radios so a spotter can direct the driver while backing their trailer into a campsite or driveway at home. However, communication is just one way at any given time and the transmit key must be pressed each time, which is particularly annoying for the driver. I prefer using an inexpensive wireless phone with intercom & speakerphone that allows for constant two way communication without the need for either party to press a transmit button.
As part of my winterizing process I blow out the black tank flusher with compressed air then use this brass adapter to connect the outside shower hose to the flusher inlet ... this allows me to use the trailer's fresh water pump to run RV antifreeze through the flusher.
Over the winter I use tire covers and a breathable ADCO Tyvek cover to protect our trailer from the harsh weather.
ADCO cover after sweeping the roof clear of snow with a wide push broom. I use the cover primarily to protect all the caulked roof seams and the awning from constant cycles of ice and snow freezing and melting.
