My favourite camping mug, courtesy of my pal Red Green and the boys at Possum Lodge!
Our camping partner Brady chillaxin'.
I LOVE camping in the fall!
Spree logo - KZ Recreational Vehicles in Shipshewana, Indiana
2008 KZ Spree 240BH-LX Floorplan.
The simplicity of our 2008 240BH-LX non-slide Spree ensures I have no worries over slide failure or slide seals leaking water into the trailer. In 2009 KZ revised this floorplan to include a U shaped slide out dinette but that also made the new 240BHS 18 inches longer and several hundred pounds heavier.
Our 2008 KZ Spree 240BH-LX is a 24' class trailer that measures 26' 9" coupler to bumper and fits perfectly on our driveway. GVWR is 6000 lbs, typically it weighs ~ 5500 lbs loaded and ready to camp.
The optional LX package adds aluminum mag wheels, a larger entry door grab handle, raised wood insert on the fridge door, a foot flush toilet, LCD HD television, and this molded front cap that encloses the two 30 lb propane tanks.
We had preferred to buy a camper with a manual awning but this particular Spree had a factory installed Carefree of Colorado power awning so we agreed with the dealer to try it for a few months.
After a few months we decided to have the original power awning replaced with this Dometic A&E 8500 manual awning. Although it may take slightly longer to deploy it's much more versatile as it can be used in any weather and be set at any angle to allow rain to roll off without pooling, allowing us to leave it set up even during heavy downpours, with everything underneath remaining totally dry. Set at this acute angle it's also much easier to secure lights to it and to clean.
The Recreational Vehicle Specification Nameplate located on the inside of one of the kitchen cabinet doors provides details about our particular trailer, including the two most important weight details - it's GVWR and UVW as it left the factory.
The VIN nameplate affixed to the trailer street side near the front verifies the trailer's GVWR of 6000 lbs. The adjacent Tire and Loading Information sticker verifies the trailer's Cargo Carrying Capacity as 1426 lbs ... subtract this from the trailer's GVWR of 6000 lbs and this confirms the trailer's UVW as 4574 lbs as it left the factory.
Adding a 1.5 inch memory foam topper to our Spree's queen size box spring mattress improved comfort considerably while installing cabinet doors on the end of the bed improved access to the storage area below it. The folding privacy divider on the left can be drawn across the width of the trailer to separate the bedroom area from the remainder of the trailer.
Originally there was a folding shelf in this area designed to hold a second TV but I removed it and installed this handy shoe bag. After first mounting a piece of hardwood to the wall using spring wing toggle bolts I secured the shoe bag to the wood with four screws.
On each side of the bed is a closet that offers ample space for hanging clothes.
Above the bed is yet more cabinet storage space.
Anytime we're not using A/C this 3 speed Fantastic Vent powered vent fan over the queen bed does a great job of drawing in fresh air or exhausting stale air. Both this vent and the bathroom vent are enclosed with Vent Mate vent covers so both can be left open 24/7 no matter what the weather may be outside.
Looking from the front bedroom is the kitchen, dinette, bunk beds at the rear, and to the right behind the wall with the clock is the bathroom. Above the fridge is an LCD HD television which can be swung out and viewed from anywhere in the camper.
Our Spree's kitchen offers plenty of cabinet storage while a removable cutting board atop the stove provides additional counter space for preparing meals.
I've added a toggle switch to the rear of the radio housing so I can disable the radio entirely when dry camping and eliminate any parasitic draw on the battery by the radio.
Lightly tensioned shock cord is an effective solution for preventing drawers and cabinet doors from inadvertently opening during travel.
Unfortunately RV manufacturers continue to use lightweight plastic self adjusting drawer slide brackets that break easily. I've replaced our's with these heavier grade one piece brackets from Home Depot, reinforcing each one with a steel strap secured with #6 flat head screws, washers, and nyloc nuts.
These heavier grade one piece drawer slide brackets I've reinforced with steel are much stronger than the originals and unlikely to ever break.
Our Spree's "central vac" is an inexpensive ShopVac HangOn vacuum which I secured to an interior divider wall in a lower kitchen cabinet using the supplied bracket. I extended the supplied hose so it now reaches every area of the camper and when not being used is stored under the dinette seat.
This dinette table is 6 inches longer than stock, allowing us more elbow room. Using just one pedestal leg to support it's weight I secured the table directly to the wall, completely eliminating any wobble. A Camco 12 vdc 15 watt CFL bulb in the table lamp can be used whether we have an electric site or we're dry camping. A length of lightly tensioned shock cord ensures the overhead cabinet doors don't open inadvertently during travel.
After removing one of the dinette table's two pedestals legs I routed a notch into a length of 1.5 inch hardwood and secured it to the trailer wall with carpenter's glue and screws / anchors, then secured the table edge to the hardwood with self adhesive Velcro and two small L brackets.
Adding a 1/4" mono jack to the light fixture mounted to the underside of the cabinet that sits above the dinette table allows me to power my 12 vdc table lamp directly from the camper's 12 volt electrical system.
The furnace is located under the dinette seat beside the trailer's outside wall and draws air in through the louvered end panel at this end of the seat. I added hinges to this end panel so I could use this otherwise unused space for storing my central vac hose. Installing a piece of vinyl coated wire shelving was the perfect solution for preventing the stored hose from contacting the furnace.
Between the front bedroom and dinette is this triple shelf pantry which we've found just the right size for storing food items.
An expandable curtain rod mounted between the bathroom wall and curbside trailer wall allowed me to hang this privacy curtain that can be pulled aside when not in use. Plastic cups (from Home Depot) secured to each wall prevent the expanding curtain rod from shifting.
The large bathroom vanity offers plenty of storage space but was supplied with just one mirrored cabinet door on the right side so I added another on the left. To prevent taller containers from falling over in the cabinet when traveling I've added dividers to the lower shelf.
The shower stall is typical of those found in most trailers and sure beats having to trek to a campground bath house facility. Above is a skylight which really opens up the space and allows in considerable light.
A wet jacket dries quickly and because it's hanging in the shower water just drips into the tub below. The 1 inch aluminum tubing can be removed anytime by simply lifting it out of the plastic holders mounted to opposite walls of the shower enclosure.
I added a 1/4 turn shut off valve mid way along the shower hose where it would be easy to operate with soapy hands. Using this "navy shower" technique allows us to minimize fresh water use and reduce the amount of grey water produced. To install the water shut off valve I simply cut the hose in half and inserted a Dahl Mini-Ball 1/4 Turn Valve, Part #121-PX3-PX3.
Our Spree 240BH-LX features a unique triple bunk bed design in which the 32 inch wide upper and lower beds run the full width of the trailer while the 28 inch x 75 inch middle bed runs along the curb side of the trailer. However, we have no need for the middle bunk bed so I removed it to open up the area at the rear of the trailer, adding Sterilite drawers for storing bulky items such as sweaters and jeans.
Revised floorplan for our 2008 KZ Spree 240BH-LX showing the middle bed removed.
Another view of the space opened up by removing the unused middle bunk bed. Coincidentally, a set of stacking Sterilite drawers which offer even more storage fit perfectly at the "foot" end of the lower bunk bed and don't interfere at all with lifting the bed to reveal the large cargo storage area below.
Lightly tensioned shock cord prevents these drawers from opening during travel.
I replaced my ShurFlo WhisperKing water pump with a ShurFlo Revolution Model 4008 that offers noticeably improved water flow at the faucets & shower head. Adding 6 feet of braided hose to the pump output, running it to a ShurFlo accumulator tank, wrapping all lines with foam pipe wrap, and using nylon cable ties to prevent water lines from contacting cabinet surfaces resulted in a pump that can barely be heard when running.
Using foam pipe wrap I created foam "donuts" on which the pump's four rubber feet sit, then sat the pump on a piece of semi rigid foam.
Although ShurFlo claims that using an accumulator tank with their Revolution pump isn't necessary I found it significantly cuts down on pump cycling and the end result is as quiet as my previous, lower flow WhisperKing system.
This 12vdc Endless Breeze fan is particularly handy for road side lunch time stops during the summer when we don't have electrical power for running A/C but would like a little breeze inside the camper while we're eating. When dry camping it serves to keep the air moving nicely inside the camper.
Our Spree is equipped with a Suburban SW6DE gas / electric water heater but the switch for turning on the electric element is inconvenient to use because it's mounted on the water heater itself and can only be accessed from outside the camper by opening the WH hatch door. To solve this issue I installed this switch on the wall near the fridge where we can conveniently reach it.
I replaced the stock analogue Coleman thermostat with this Hunter digital model that's easy to read and more accurately controls both heating and cooling set temperatures.
Unlike the original analogue thermostat that it replaced this Hunter digital thermostat offers just a single A/C fan speed so I added a toggle switch which allows me to run the fan on either low or high speed. Since the Hunter also doesn't have a dedicated FAN OFF mode I used a switch with a centre off position so I can start the A/C compressor first then switch the fan on once the incoming voltage has stabilized, thereby reducing initial voltage drop on the circuit.
Wiring scheme used to connect my Hunter digital thermostat to our Spree's Coleman Mach 3 Plus A/C and Suburban furnace.
Since we we normally camp on electric sites we use this very quiet Bionaire ceramic heater as our primary source of heat, using the propane furnace to augment it when the outside temperatures really begin to drop.
Low campsite voltage is not uncommon during the hot summer months when everyone wants to run their A/C so before plugging in the trailer's main service cable I check it first using this custom cable for my multi meter that plugs directly into one of the campsite power post outlets.
I added a surface mount duplex receptacle to our camper's kitchen wall so I could locate this AC line meter where it can easily be seen to monitor incoming source voltage. This meter (Prime Products, Model 12-4058) also checks for correct polarity and indicates faults such as an open neutral or open ground.
When parked at home I always keep our Spree plugged in as the power requirements are minimal. This Energy Meter can measure not only source voltage but also power consumption in both amperes and watts of any device plugged into it, including the entire camper. If I want to run the A/C on a hot day the meter confirms that once the A/C compressor has ramped up to speed total current draw is well within the limits of a standard 120 vac 15 amp circuit.
This Supco SPP6 hard start capacitor enables the A/C unit to start much more easily by dramatically increasing compressor torque.
To install the Supco SPP6 hard start capacitor in our 13,500 BTU Coleman Mach 3 Plus A/C I removed the top shroud and the cover over this compartment which is located on the front street side of the A/C unit.
Installing the Supco hard start capacitor was as simple as connecting it's two connectors to the connectors on the existing run capacitor and securing it in place with a few nylon cable ties.
Supco SPP6 hard start capacitor - installation complete.
My 13,500 BTU Coleman Mach 3 Plus A/C, equipped with a Supco SPP6 hard start capacitor, starting and running with the trailer being powered from a standard 30 amp campsite drop. Incoming voltage drops a bit when the A/C compressor first starts but recovers quite quickly.
My 13,500 BTU Coleman Mach 3 Plus A/C, equipped with a Supco SPP6 hard start capacitor, starting and running with the trailer being powered from a standard 15 amp drop in the garage. Not unexpectedly, when the A/C compressor first starts the incoming voltage drops more than when being powered by a 30 amp campsite drop but does recover quite quickly.
Installing this Marinco main service disconnect kit eliminated the tedious task of trying to stuff the main service cable back through the mouse hole.
The large rear cargo door offers access to the huge storage area under the lower bed.
With the trailer parked on our driveway so the tongue clears the sidewalk there's sufficient room at the rear to allow the swing up garage door to be opened fully and also allow the trailer's rear cargo door to clear the garage. I moved the spare tire which is normally secured to the bumper with a bracket into the front storage compartment to further reduce the length of the trailer.
Opening the rear cargo door reveals the lower bunk bed and cargo storage area below it. Raising the lower bunk bed allows full access to this area.
Looking left, then right, into the huge cargo storage area under the rear bunk bed.
Four 7 gal Aquatainers I use for off loading the trailer's grey water holding tank nest together perfectly in this rear cargo location where they're out of sight, out of mind but within easy reach whenever I might need them. Red electrical tape on each tank handle identifies these tanks for grey/black water use only.
This clothes rack mounts to the rear bumper while we're camping and surprisingly doesn't interfere with opening the rear cargo door.
I mounted clear Lexan panels to the screen door, allowing us to always leave the main entry door open for more light into the camper yet still run A/C in hot weather and heat in cold weather.
Our Spree's front pass through cargo storage compartment can be accessed from both sides of the trailer via 36 inch x 12 inch cargo doors. The curb side holds our camp chairs, table, bumper clothes rack, awning clamps, etc, the spare tire resides in the centre, while the street side is used for any trailer set up items I may want ready access to.
This polyester weave under awning ground mat is several years old but is wearing well, is easy to sweep clean, and dries quickly as water easily drains through the weave.
Rope lighting secured to the awning's roller tube provides just the right amount of soft lighting during the evening hours.
We don't normally camp in one spot long enough to make erecting a screen room worth the effort but the mosquitoes were so intense in Arrowhead Provincial Park that we went into the nearby town of Huntsville and bought a First Up canopy with screen walls and erected it over the campsite table so we could at least eat outside without being eaten alive.
After 8 camping seasons we replaced our venerable Weber Q100 with a new Q120 which retains the aluminum shell, stainless steel 8500 BTU burner, and porcelain coated cast iron cooking grill of the original but also adds a temperature gauge, flip out side tables, and electronic ignition. The higher domed top allows us to also use the Weber as an outdoor gas oven.
The Weber Q120's porcelain coated cast iron grill cooks evenly and provides ample cooking space for our family of four.
The Weber Q series of gas grills can be fed from a 16.4 oz canister, stand alone propane tank, or as shown here be fed from one of the trailer's tanks using a high pressure hose that terminates with a 1"-20 threaded male fitting.
When not in use our Weber Q120 stores nicely in this Rubbermaid bin, protecting the grill from dirt & bugs and retaining any grease smell inside the bin. When not in use it sits nicely under the trailer but whenever security may be a concern I can also store it in our Avalanche's locked cargo storage compartment where it travels when I'm towing.
When not connected to the Weber Q I simply cap the end of the high pressure hose and hang the hose over the trailer's rear bumper where it's out of the way until the next use. A check valve within the 1"-20 threaded fitting prevents any unintended gas flow.
We do most of most of our cooking outside and anything that can't be grilled on our Weber Q120 is easily handled by this Coleman 2 burner stove which can be powered with a 16.4 oz canister, stand alone propane tank, or from one of the trailer's 30 lb tanks.
POL adapter allows the propane tank to continue feeding the trailer while also providing a 1"-20 fitting to which a high pressure hose feeding the Weber grill and Coleman stove can be connected.
A high pressure hose connected to one of the trailer's 30 lb tanks runs to this Marshall 1"-20 T to create two high pressure feeds - one for the Coleman two burner stove and the other for our Weber Q120 grill.
This containment box safely stores two tiki torch lamp oil canisters, a spare container of lamp oil, and a spare 16 oz propane canister.
Our current tow vehicle - 2005 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L, 4x2, 3.42 axle, GVWR 6800 lbs, Trailer Tow Rating 7300 lbs, GCWR 13,000 lbs.
A very comfortable family vehicle that easily tows our 5500 lb KZ Spree.
Brady inspects his truck seat. The base is a plastic milk crate turned upside down ... to that I secured two pieces of 3/4" plywood and finished it in black enamel paint and carpet.
Brady's truck seat provided him with his own personal space in our Silverado without crowding the remaining passenger seat areas. The vertical piece prevented him from moving forward into the front passenger area.
Brady's truck seat fits our 2005 Avalanche just as perfectly as it did our previous 2006 Silverado.
As with our 2006 Silverado I installed a set of GM towing mirrors to replace the stock electric mirrors on our 2005 Avalanche for a rock solid image while towing. When collapsed these mirrors reach out 15 inches but when extended reach out 18 inches, allowing me to easily see down both sides of the trailer.
During the winter when I'm not towing we prefer to use the stock electric mirrors but they were wired by GM with the connector behind the door panel. To make it quicker to reinstall these mirrors I wired in these easily accessible 6-pin connectors for each mirror.
This Peak wireless back up camera system includes the camera with license plate mounting, transmitter (not seen in this pic), and 7 inch colour monitor.
I mounted the Peak wireless transmitter in this plastic box, providing strain relief to protect the delicate connectors.
The transmitter box is secured inside the vehicle's rear cargo box with Velcro and I've wired in 12vdc from the cargo compartment light which I can turn on/off from the driver's position, thereby turning the transmitter on/off. When not in use I simply Velcro the camera to the transmitter box rather than leave it outside exposed to the elements.
I prefer the view of the hitch from this angle, with the camera pointing down at the hitch ball, so I secure it to the tailgate handle with Velcro. If left outside condensation can fog the camera lens so when not being used I store the camera inside our Avalanche's cargo compartment along with the transmitter where they're both protected from the elements.
Since I usually just use my Peak camera for hitching up I've found it easiest to leave the monitor Velcro'd to the sunshade and connect power only as needed ... the rest of the time it folds up out of the way along with the sunshade.
With the camera pointing directly down at the hitch ball lining it up to the trailer's coupler is really easy and spot on every time.
Tekonsha P3 brake controller ensures consistently smooth braking every time.
For towing our Spree I use a 1000 / 10,000 lb Equal-i-zer weight distribution system that also offers four point sway control as a function of it's design, therefore eliminating the need for a separate sway bar. No drilling of the trailer frame is required and once set up correctly the Equal-i-zer works really well.
Equal-i-zer owners often complain of groaning and popping noises, especially at low speeds, but I've solved the problem with my own Equal-i-zer by spraying the L brackets and head contact points with this dry film lubricant called Slip Plate which is sold by Tractor Supply Company. It's specifically designed for metal sliding surfaces and hasn't negatively affected my Equal-i-zer's ability to provide 4 point sway control.
This Sherline tongue weight scale offers a convenient method of periodically checking the trailer's gross tongue weight.
Measuring tongue weight with the Sherline tongue weight scale. For an accurate reading it's imperative that the trailer be sitting level, as it should be when towing.
Lowering the coupler on to the scale shows a gross tongue weight of 750 lbs or ~ 13.6% of the trailer's typical gross weight of ~ 5500 lbs.
Since our driveway slopes significantly down to the street the tongue jack won't extend far enough to level the trailer so I built this two section tongue jack support with outriggers. With so many kids in the neighbourhood I also place adjustable aluminum jack stands as safety supports under the trailer's main frame members to back up the tongue jack in the unlikely event it should ever fail.
When leveling our Spree on a campsite that slopes down at the front of the site this 6 inch wood stack is just the right height for reducing tongue jack extension yet it will allow the trailer tongue to drop sufficiently low for hitching up.
When leveling our Spree on a campsite that slopes up at the front of the site this single piece of wood provides secure footing for the tongue jack yet provides just the right amount of additional lift required to hitch up to our TV.
My Hoppy Hitch Level is mounted inside the front storage compartment where I find condensation doesn't fog up the inside of the housing as it sometimes did when mounted on the trailer tongue.
I built this dual purpose Trailer Lights Dongle so when camping I can plug our trailer's Bargman connector into it and in RUN mode power the trailer's running lights, which aids immensely in locating our camper on a really dark night. FLASH mode allows the trailer's running lights to flash in a case where I might have to leave the trailer at the side of the road or when backing up on a busy roadway.
I mounted the dongle components to the box lid but cut off the rear portion of the Bargman connector so it would fit easily into the box which measures ~ 4.75 inches x 3.25 inches x 2.25 inches. The flasher was secured in place using epoxy glue.
Trailer lights dongle wiring diagram.
Simple Trailer Lights Dongle - wire Pin 4 (+12 vdc) to Pin 3 (Trailer Running Lights) using a flat fuse. In this case I wired the fuse through a push button switch on the end of the vehicle Bargman connector so I could turn the lights on/off without having to remove the dongle from the trailer end Bargman.
I've added a Blue Sea Battery Master Disconnect Switch to the main battery box (bottom left) that disconnects the main battery from the trailer and wired a Key Switch so it controls power to just the tongue jack.
Blue Sea Battery Master Disconnect Switch (left) and Key Switch (right) which controls power to the electric tongue jack. Removing the key disables the tongue jack, preventing tampering, while capping it protects the switch from the elements.
Electric tongue jack with a vinyl grout bag turned inside out to protect it from the elements and behind it a G24 battery box which is bolted to the tongue platform and contains my Fresh Water Transfer Pump. To the rear is a larger battery box, also bolted to the tongue platform & secured with a heavy duty cable lock and contains the trailer's G27 main battery. Dual 30 lb propane tanks are hidden behind the trailer's molded front cap.
Fresh Water Transfer Pump (left) and G27 Main Battery Box (right). The trailer's main tow vehicle connection cable and main battery charge cable are both tucked inside the pump box when not in use to protect them from the elements. Whenever I want to use the pump I simply plug the battery charge cable into the pump's 7-pin Bargman connector.
On the rear battery box I mounted a Bargman connector and Toggle Switch to create a switched 12vdc utility feed for powering any device that may run on 12vdc. This same switched feed is also wired back to a second Bargman mounted next to the grey & black water waste gates so it can be used to power my Flojet Waste Macerator Pump.
I modified my deep cycle battery charger by cutting the original cable and wiring on a set of matching 7 pin Bargman connectors, with the vehicle end fitting inside the charger case when not in use. On the right are two custom charge cables, one for the main trailer battery and the other for the spare, allowing me to charge these batteries without having to open the battery boxes.
I've gradually converted our trailer's outside 12 vdc components to use the Bargman 7-pin connector as it's heavy duty, reliable, and weather resistant. This 10' male to male 10 gauge distribution cable and female to female breakout box allows me to hook up my outside 12 vdc components pretty well any way I want, including powering our trailer with our truck if I prefer. Wiring is standard - Pin 4 is positive, Pin 1 is negative.
I've wired in a Blue Sea Battery Disconnect Switch to the main battery and wired a Key Switch to control just the tongue jack. I also wired a charge cable directly to the battery's + / - terminals so I can recharge the battery with my genset & stand alone battery charger without having to remove the battery from the box. All wiring is 8 AWG to minimize voltage loss due to wire resistance.
My Fresh Water Transfer Pump is a stock ShurFlo Classic potable water pump which I've housed in G24 battery box bolted to a 1/2 inch plywood tongue platform which in turn is secured to the trailer's A frame. The pump's intake & output are routed to the outside of the box for easy connection to the intake and output hoses. The pump is wired out to a 7-pin Bargman through a toggle switch mounted just below the Bargman while power is provided by plugging in the main battery's charge cable.
Our Avalanche offers dry and locked cargo space for my fresh water Aquatainers and Weber Q120 storage box, leaving plenty of room for our under awning ground mat, lounge chairs, firewood, campsite torches, spare propane tank, etc.
After filling my fresh water Aquatainers at the campground fill station I transfer the water into the trailer's fresh water holding tank with my Fresh Water Transfer Pump which is mounted on the trailer tongue.
This fresh water draw tube ensures each Aquatainer is completely emptied by the Fresh Water Transfer Pump.
During setup I run the fresh water transfer pump's output hose back to the trailer's fresh water gravity fill intake where it remains for the duration of our stay. When not in use the short intake hose is looped around the tongue jack. Filling the trailer's fresh water tank is as simple as placing the draw tube into a full Aquatainer and turning the pump on.
A short length of clear hose attached to the Fresh Water Transfer Pump's output hose and inserted into the gravity fill intake ensures the hose remains in place and seals the intake from bugs.
The Avalanche's side cargo compartments are perfect for storing water hoses.
When not camping I can either leave my Aquatainers in our Avalanche's covered and locked cargo compartment or as shown here store them on my garage wall with the caps off to allow the tanks to dry thoroughly.
We don't often bother taking bikes but have found that when we do the KISS principle works best, with our two bikes simply propped at an angle against the front bed where we've found they don't shift in the slightest.
Although I've tried a variety of commercially available tank treatments I've found that using inexpensive household laundry products also works well. Calgon makes the tank walls slippery and acts as an odorant, laundry detergent cleans the tank walls and also acts as an odorant, while an occasional bit of chlorine bleach disinfects the tanks and also minimizes odours. Google "The Geo Method" for details.
Direct pull Valterra waste gates are a significant improvement over the original cable actuated waste gates that were difficult to operate and often stuck. I also added a Bargman connector near the waste gates as a more convenient means of powering my Flojet Waste Macerator Pump directly from the trailer battery.
To avoid campground dump station lineups I service our Spree's holding tanks at home using this 12 vdc FloJet Waste Macerator Pump to macerate and pump waste out through a 3/4 inch hose (on the left) which feeds into the house sewer stack. An anti siphon connection (on the right) allows back flushing the tanks with fresh water if desired. While camping the FloJet allows me to offload grey or even macerated black water into a set of Aquatainers sitting in our Avalanche's cargo compartment and which can later be emptied at the campground dump station.
At home the output hose running from the Flojet Waste Macerator Pump is inserted into this intake stack which I installed outside the house and connected to the main sewer stack located in the basement.
Inside the basement I connected the intake stack to the main plumbing stack using ABS pipe and a T.
Although our Spree's black water tank flusher does help clean the tank I still prefer to put this tank sprayer down the toilet throat as a final step to give the tank a thorough cleaning.
Once the tanks thoroughly cleaned this is what the water coming from the Flojet Waste Macerator Pump looks like!
Once I'm finished cleaning the tanks I simply cap the intake stack and roll up the hose so it's ready for the next time I may want to use it.
I prefer using Lynx Levelers to level my Spree side to side but to prevent them from shifting or cracking when sitting on uneven ground surfaces I secured a layer of Lynx to a length of 3/4 inch thick plywood. Adding additional layers of Lynx increases lift accordingly while a BAL Single Tire Chock prevents the trailer from shifting.
I found it worthwhile to also carry a second 3/4 inch thick base plate with no Lynx mounted to it that I can use under the high side tires for those times I want to fine tune how level the trailer is sitting.
Another secure method of chocking a dual axle trailer is to use a set of BAL Standard Tire Locking Chocks (Model 28000A) to prevent the trailer from shifting and a set of BAL X-Chocks (Model #28012) to minimize camper suspension wiggle.
Norco includes this note in every box of BAL X-Chocks warning owners to not rely solely on X-Chocks to safely chock the trailer and prevent it from inadvertently shifting, which is why I also use a set of BAL Standard Tire Locking Chocks in conjunction with the X-Chocks.
Each base plate built using 3/4 inch plywood 70 inches long is finished in gloss black enamel paint to protect it from the elements. One has 8 Lynx secured to it while the base plate with no Lynx can be used to elevate the high side a bit, thereby fine tuning the side to side leveling.
Each Lynx is secured to the base plate with four #14 x 2 inch wood screws which I countersunk into each of four holes in each Lynx.
Countersinking is necessary so the screw heads won't interfere with stacking a second layer of Lynx atop the first.
The trick to ensuring the screws hold the Lynx securely to the wood base plate is to first run each screw through a 1.5 inch length of vinyl tubing (1/4 inch I.D. x 3/8 inch O.D.) As each screw is tightened down the tubing expands within the hole in the Lynx, gripping the Lynx securely. No additional securement such as adhesive is required, which in turn means the Lynx can be removed at any time if I want to repaint the base plate or even replace any of the Lynx.
Since each base plate is 70 inches long I cut them in half and hinged each in the middle so they would fold for easier storage.
The hinges are countersunk into the underside of the base plate.
This side view shows how each base plate folds to a compact package just 35 inches long x 10 inches wide ... the low side Lynx version on the left is 4.5 inches thick, the high side on the right is just 1.5 inches thick, so they're both easy to carry and take little room in the trailer to store when not in use.
I store my Lynx leveling system and a box of spare Lynx in our Spree's rear cargo storage area where they're easy to access. The weight helps offset the weight of the spare tire which I prefer to store in the trailer's front storage compartment rather than hanging off the rear bumper.
It doesn't take much torque at all to raise / lower trailer stabilizers provided the drive screw threads are clean and well lubricated. After first breaking the tension with a wrench this small 12v lithium ion Ridgid drill rated at just 120 in/lbs effortlessly raises and lowers my stabilizers.
Krown T40 sold here in Canada works superbly for lubricating the stabilizers and doesn't attract dirt as does grease.
This Dexter Axle Heavy Duty Suspension Kit #K71-359-00 which features brass bushings and zerk grease fittings replaced our Spree's stock equalizers in which the nylon bushings had completely worn through.
Bonaire DD12 150CN Air Compressor, rated at a maximum of 130 p.s.i. I extended the cable with 12 gauge zip cord and terminated it with a 7-pin Bargman connector so I can power the pump from our truck's Bargman connector and easily reach any tire on any of our vehicles.
When winterizing our trailer I connect the white blow out plug to the trailer's city water inlet and use this small 2 gal oil free Husky air compressor to blow out any residual water remaining in the trailer's water system.
As part of my winterizing process I blow out the black tank flusher with compressed air then use this brass adapter to connect the outside shower hose to the flusher inlet ... this allows me to use the trailer's fresh water pump to run RV antifreeze through the flusher.
Over the winter I use tire covers and a breathable ADCO Tyvek cover to protect our trailer from the harsh weather.
ADCO cover after sweeping the roof clear of snow with a wide push broom. I use the cover primarily to protect all the caulked roof seams and the awning from constant cycles of ice and snow freezing and melting.