Here are the plans. I call them "concept drawings and sometimes the product resembles them ...in some part.
Some local Western Maple I just picked up. Air dried 3 yrs. Time to run the 10 ER through her paces.
Some pieces of Wenge that I had in the shop.
Didn't have two inch.
This could have been done on the SS but I don't have the mortising parts.
Mortises plugged to prevent tearout when turned.
Laying out the lathe pattern.
Cut close to the line.
Sand to the line.
High tech setup check.
Same other end.
Duplicator ready.
Blank chucked in.
Turning to cylinder. Everything is locked up except the carriage.
Detailing the cut outs.
Turned legs and feet blanks.
Boring the feet.
Fitting
Gluing the feet
Using the tool rest as a feeler gauge to align new bottom end.
Turning the feet
Power sanding to 220 grit
Hand paper to 1200 grit.
Gauging depth for screw holes in hinges. I did find the depth control nuts a bit later.
Counterbores
Poor old Delta lathe looks lonely and unloved
Pilot holes
Splitting the hinges.
Marked sets
Shank holes in top half only
Check screw position
Fasten
Bore for the hinge pin / table leg.
UHMW polyurethane tape
Assembling the hinge blank around the leg with the tape in place.
Marking hinge for later
Plug removal
Table frame parts
Marking X braces
Cutting notches
Rough assembled
Mortises fitted, rough assembly
Tight mortises
For whole sheets the unisaw, outfeed table, and "dumb buddy" overrule the ER
Marking box position at inside of hinge line.
Measuring from the work.
Cutting the box pieces on the ER
Mitre slot slide.
Two perfect 45 deg pieces. No angles or degrees were harmed in this process, nor were any protractors or squares employed.
45's tacked to base
Sled ready
Align the piece on the right hand side
Cut on the left hand side
Not too bad
Quick assembly check
"Off the saw" the fits are well within acceptable range
Bottom will fit up inside later
Think of the box about 17" lower.... and with doors.
Didn't like the shape. Reduced the depth about an inch and re-jigged the x-braces.
Now the proportions are better. Still comes down about 1 3/4"
Hinge detail on plywood in the shop. Sized from the work
Marking line to rip veneers
Rip setup
Rip in half
Rip halves in half
Thick veneers, about 3/32" because of miter corners on box.
Spalted Maple for interior
Selecting grain matches on exterior Maple
The universal clamp
Add glue
Clamp other side
Glued up panel
Veneer layout process begins
Making use of grain
Trying to match corners as well as possible
All the scrap left after initial rough in of Wenge parts
Front panel with doors partially cut
applying glue to interior
Glued veneers stacked to reduce curling up
In the vacuum bag
Back, Front, Sides, and Top
Rough positioning of exterior Wenge Veneers
Rough fitting
Machine fitted, Will finish by hand
Re-thickness to even out glue joints
10 ER as a finishing jointer. 100 grit spray glued to a scrap of MDF with another scrap used as a sliding table.
Hand jointed parts
Halves glued up
Halves re-jointed
Whole glued up
Top centered on veneer. Tape is masking for later
Glued up. Taped exactly in position on masked spots
In the bag
Thinnest blade available
Top match, preliminary sanding
Top to front match, mock up
Sanding interior veneer
Cutting out doors
Edges on doors
And frame
Sand edges flush
Shim to saw thickness and tape on interior
Mark and cut to be flush with edges of substrate pieces
Re assemble to check alignment
Assemble back, front and sides in "wrap around "position to a straight edge
Cut pattern piece. Another use of my "dumb buddy"
Layout veneers on pattern base
Mark grain features, corners and extent of veneer material onto pattern
Index left rear corner on the back...
...and on the left side
Start drawing
Freehand a second line about 3/16 inside the drawn line to account for the template guide
Cut the inner line
Check alignment
Check grain alignment
Copy outline on masking paper
Clean up jig saw marks
Use the small guide for the inlay part
After final alignment, clamp one end and install double sided tape on the other. Then do the other end
With the paper taped exactly below the pattern, start your cut. Feel the pattern with the router but look at the line on the paper or you'll be lost. I work on top of styrofoam so I can cut clear through.
If you stop, mark the paper so you don't lose your place
Got through with only three glitches. I consider myself very lucky.
Large glitch repair... make new piece
Tape in place
Re-cut line
Small glitch repair... Wenge dust and three minute epoxy
Finished cut
Not much scrap
Set up to cut field with large guide bushing
The "good" piece is under the pattern so it's much easier
Set up slightly separated over waxed paper
Clamp with stretched masking tape
Alignment check
Assembled veneer panels in the bag gluing to the substrate pieces
Sanded and realigned
"Drip" detail
Using fence and hand to hold down for ZCI cut
RE-cutting miters
Getting to here dimension and match wise was like herding cats while trying to nail jelly to the wall with a rubber hammer!
But it works, This is "off the saw"
The fits are within tolerances to be hand fit very well. This is why I used thick veneers
Couldn't resist a glimpse into the future
Cutting the front veneer for the doors
Rough cut out
Tape depth gauge
Q & D shelf hole jig
Mask for glue over-run
Clamp up, tape up and hope for the best.
First glued miter corner
Left back corner
Assembly check with doors
Corner cut outs marked. Harvesting veneer chips for later. They are cut square to surface and slightly oversize
Carefully removing chip
Indexed and set aside
This is the thickness of the top
Cutting out the slots for the X framing. Cut under-size
Fitting with a file
Framing pieces in place, top sitting on
Protect veneer edges with two layers of tape
Invert on shop blanket and cut lower slots
Lower X frame in
Rough cutting hinge
Final hinge design to be refined. They need to be lighter.
I'm pleased so far.
Logo Maple leaf for inside bottom
Bottom veneers can be thinner
Field cut out
Inside bottom veneer ready to glue to bottom piece.
Prototype hinge with color matching background.Still not right, needs refinement.
The process of making the Leg finials
Measure leg top with outside caliper, lock
Rough in the recess with the inside caliper
Final fit right on the piece
Rough the OD
Round the bottom corner
Make a custom screw center
Chuck in the screw center
Shaper cutter for uniformity
Must be cut with scraping action because of grain
1200 grit sanded
Legs with tops
New hinge plan with veneer match
Block glued on top
Rough trimmed
Rough sanded
Outline hinge on door
Look for veneer match
Hold the Veneer blank on the hinge and align
Mark veneer
Glue it on
Rough fitted hinges
There's a LOT of hand sanding to do here
Adding bottom trim
First coat of finish on legs
...And Interiors, pre-assembly
Finish sanded hinges
Paint can blank
In the lathe
Paint can, note label: "Dark Striped Paint"
Wait for it
OOPS!
Ready to glue top on
A couple of clamps and it's done
Back to the veneer chips harvested earlier: Glue into 90 deg.'s
They will fit small because of kerfs
Glue on matching bits
Fit to corner holes and glue in place
These should sand up fine
Corners rough sanded in
These will clean up when grain filling takes place
Rear view
Filling the grain with danish oil / Wenge dust slurry. Rub in the oil with 600 grit wet / dry paper.
Wenge is a very open grain wood
Grain mostly filled
Grain filled, now it must dry before final sanding.
First coat (brush-on Varathane, exterior, oil base,gloss)
Second coat, same as first
Sanded, shows some areas not filled yet
Glue relief channels
Glue in sockets
Relief channels work
Drawing together
Assembled with third coat, Wipe-on Poly
First coat on doors, hinge glue areas masked
Drippy door handles
Drilling hole for rare earth magnet
Magnet in, screw is an adjuster and a contact for the magnet
Double sided tape on hinges
Hinges adhered to door while door shimmed in place
"Final" assembly
These are not Blum hinges. They are VERY hard to fine tune.
Center bead added
More finish coats
OOPS!!!
