centerline and chines clearly visible, take half of your natural born life to get this right. It will save much time later.
moving forward with 1st layer of marine ply
tons of bronze nails seen in transom
2X4 supports for bottom. Plan carefully how you will remove these later.
Another view of the plumb line and frames
Draw centerlines on everything and check frequently.
Getting ready to fair the bottom edges and back out for roll over.
A little damage on the bottom left will be easily repaired.
another view of the large boat in a small space. Skis to side are done for year!
This is one beefy boat. 1" thick marine ply. corner shows filler of West with Cabosil to fill a void here.
A tight squeeze with the power equipment. Lots of snow last winter.
many nail to countersink.
This actually came out very smooth and strong. fiberglass mat in a ground out trench. filled with epoxy, smoothed with a taping knife over waxed paper.
Boat turning soon? This is polyurethane paint over latex primer. However, I don't like the way it applies. Will switch to oil base over the latex primer. (Kilz Premium)
July 25, 2009
Rolling the boat is not too difficult. Use jacks and levers. Position a sawhorse and up she goes.
This edge was reinforced for the roll. I doubt it was needed. landing area is a bunch of old tires.
This is mildew that was caused by being too close in contact with the ground. I bleached and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned for several days. It is now pristine. Next time, I will place a tarp between the boat and ground.
Roll is complete. These boat fenders work too well. Boat rolled over my foot and damaged my toe. Toenail healed 4 months later.
Should have removed the board at stern prior to glassing. Forgot it was there.
width is 4" for rails
Glory shot. This boat has nice lines.
photo 12-26-09. Rails in place and planed/rough sanded. styrofoam in background barely fills one side tank. Off to purchase another!
DJ demonstrates the scale of the boat
It is longer than a Toyota Camry Solara. Furniture dollys work well for rolling on the pavement and garage.
handy dandy 12:1 jig. Love this tool.
Overdrilled and filled then drilled to 1" diameter. Should keep the rot at bay. The mahogany should help as well.
Sawhorses support the tarp when storing for the evening.
I put these cleats on the bottom to keep the flotation off the floor. Since I plan on sealing the front compartment air tight., I have no idea why.
Stainless bow eye bedding in 5100
beginning to build transom seating. The one on the starboard was off by 1/2". will mock up prior to glueing all framing in place. Mahogany. (fir rots in this location if it gets wet). Every attempt to seal thoroughly will be made.
This takes a while to get correct. Go slow.
Interesting...a gas can fits here. Will probably put the battery to port.
photo shows bungs in place, 2 layers of mahogany on the outside and two layers of fir on the inside, 1/2" ply in between. All to be sanded and liberally coated with epoxy and varnish.
port rails are evident
work on rails progressing to right.
Nice photo showing shear and stern seating.
July 2010 - paint, varnish, trailer, motor
20100726kirbys light grey interior high gloss. This paint is a pleasure to work with.
20100726more interior shots. Love working the a traditional oil base paint. Clean up with mineral spirits.
2010.7.26 fresh paint interior
10 HP moves this boat readily at 15 kts measured via gps. Yes, the lanyard should be attached to me!
Tows easily behind a small SUV.