These are the hand-me-down Superbe Pro hubs that I decided to build into
new wheels. They look ok on the outside, but had been left in the rain
for about 10 years and the bearings were pretty rough.
Suntour Superbe Pro track hubs were rather uniquely made, using modified 6001 cartridge
bearings. This combined the high manufacturing tolerances of cartridge bearings
with the serviceability, and NJS approval, of angular contact cones.
I'm pretty sure these front cones aren't orginal - they're really cheaply made.
The rear ones were once good but are fairly worn and pitted now.
The bearing retainer has been cut in half, in the factory, to allow for the adjustable cone.
Hence the "custom made" stickers on the outside.
The outer half of the bearing race is pressed into the hub shell.
It's not designed to be removed.
These are the parts required to convert the hubs to take sealed bearings. After a bit of searching I found
that Suzue make replacement axles for their ProMax SB hubs, with screw-on holders for the cartridge
bearings - exactly right for the job.
A handy tip from Stefan - 10mm Dyna Bolts are perfect for removing
6001 cartridge bearings from hubs. Saves finding a bearing puller.
Bearing assembly. The brass tube was an idea for an internal sleeve/spacer to prevent
a lateral load on the cartridge, but there wasn't space for it inside the hub shell.
The old axles were 8mm and 10mm. The new Suzue axles are both 3/8th, or 9.5mm.
Suzue axles with cartridge holders on the left, Suntour axles with cones on the right.
Removing the outer seal, balls, and ball retainer is easy - just prise them out gently with a flat lever.
The original bearings are labelled JAPAN IKS 6001RSP.
Diagrams of the original cone setup, on the left, and the setup with cartridges on the right. The parts
coloured orange are pressed into the hubshell and very difficult to remove.
The difficult part - how to remove the old bearing race. The trick is to pull out the inboard brass shield
first, as this leaves enough of a lip to gain some leverage on the race. (See previous diagram.)
The brass shield can be removed with a pair of pliers. Takes a bit of wrestling to get it out.
This part took a whole lot of time and patience. The bearing race has to be very carefully levered
from opposite directions, back and forth. Takes a lot more force than I expected.
Levering the race out without damaging the hub takes a lot of care. Patience!
This shows the one of the bearing races almost removed.
Finally. It took more than an hour to get all four of the races out.
A clothes peg is useful. Removing the cog and lockring also seemed to help.
Out with the old and in with the new.
I used a block of wood and a mallet to gently tap the new bearing in. Towards the end, since the
bearing sits below the face of the hub, I used the old race as a punch.
Adjusting the bearing holders took a lot of care, as you don't want to put a lateral load on the cartridges,
and there's much less feedback compared to adjusting a cup and cone.
Finally finished. Just by coincidence, the colour of the bearing seal is the
same maroon colour as the box that the hubs came in.
These wheels are going on the Kuwahara.