So this is were I left Fuji and the skies were PERFECT BLUE. I seem to be everywhere one day too early!
Next stop: a guesthouse in the middle of the historic district in Nara.
Owned by the same owners as this cute cafe in Japanese style.
Where they serve Green Tea Cheesecake!
And where I met another cool Israelian couple, who are doing a 9 month asia trip. It was quite a challenge to find an bar that was open at 23.30 in a town like this.
And what a surprise: they carry the exact same cardgame I played a week ago in Nikko. So I made a great impression by knowing how to play!
The famous templegrounds with thousands of lanterns.
And the even more famous deer.
To wish for that -special- someone...
I turned a corner inbetween temples and once again made an unexpected discovery: a volunteer kitchen serving pilgrims and tourists.
They were delighted to show me around and were particulary proud of this 100 year old stove.
The meal is simple but warm and tasty on a rainy cold day: sweet red bean soup with grilled sticky rice cake.
Also lunchboxes, served with a smiiiile.
That night it was time for the event that had drawn me to Nara in the first place, along with hundreds of others. The difference is that I was there in time for a good spot, and they were not, ha! 1,5 hour waiting in the rain and mud really paid off.
The annual waterdrawing festival features monks dragging huuge flaming torches (small trees on a very long stick) up the temple's balcony. There they twirl them around and pour ashes down on the spectators for good fortune.
I had strategically chosen a spot both close to the stairs and the balcony..
.. and got rewarded.
After doing it on one corner of the balcony, they run to the other side and do the same. It is repeated with 10 torches.
The crowd standing close enough to see something went OOOOhhh and AAAAaaahh. There was also tv broadcasting.
Afterwards I was covered in ashes, so good fortune for the next year!
The creepy deer the next day. One of them tried to eat my paper bag when I was looking the other way.
well ok, perhaps they are a little cute..
The famous Todai-ji, largest wooden structure in the world and containing the largest Buddha statue in Japan.
The first place in Japan where I got the 'cathedral' feeling. Ceiling height really does matter when you want that effect in a building.
Near City Hall I stumbled on a small festival in anticipation of Nara's 1300 year anniversary in 2010. There were taikai drum performances, a costumed parade, and of course food food foood.
Also there was a bizar performance of the local ballroom dance club, in 8th century costumes. My thoughts as I try to keep my laughter: only in Japan...
I love this shot!
Paper restaurant seating.
And best of all: local volunteers representing the symbol of the city, the Deer!
Here a more expensive version of the redbean soup. You can add roasted rice and seeds to your own taste.
1 hour south, near Kobe, is the most famous castle town in all of Japan: Himeji
And for a change I did a great job with my weather timing.
Starting to get some color after 4 weeks of travelling!
Something I noticed in Japanese supermarkets: the fruit in not only huge but also in perfect condition and uniform shape. It also tastes better than what Im used to... for example the strawberries are all the exact same size and shape. Other travellers I met had the same impression, and our guess is either genetic tweaking or positive influence of the Shinto gods.
More types of mushrooms than I've ever seen.
I met Tamar and Saar again in a fantastic hostel in Kobe they had recommended me, were they used the huge kitchen to make a nice western style meal for me. It even had its own bar so you could play restuarant, or tv-show.
Mashed potatoes and warm sake.
A beautiful garden in Kobe.
The northern hills of the city have a collection of 'international' houses dating back from Kobe's Meiji period. There is a Danish, Austrian, France, UK, Panama house and much more, and some of them are open to the public. The result: a true theme park feeling.
It feels like San fransisco mixed with Beverly Hills and a bit of Disneyland on top. Everything is too bright and well maintained, flowers and 'romantic' roadsigns, loads of wedding organisations and kitsch tourbusses.
The Holland house was very plain, but somehow more representative of the real thing than most (the Austrian one is a small castle with non stop Mozart coming out of the speakers..) Main attraction: to have your picture taken in costume. I tried to get in for free by waving my passport around and stating I was 'Oranda kara desu' but didnt work.
Another very popular thing here is to get a chance to dress up in a romantic prom gala dress, to get that Disney princess feeling. To Japanese girls probably as fascinating as kimono are to me.
Downtown near the sea, the city has a very distinct Manhattan feeling. They love the american style colonial buildings, and even this style of fence is considered very special and romantic.
Tall glass buildings, clean broad streets, and blooming magnolias. The earthquake memorial was a bit plain though.
In the park next to the sea was this awesome club/cafe called 'FISH'
As I walked by I saw several groups practising hiphop dance routines, turned out to be a private party that evening with performances of the university Dance Club.
Picture with the CREW! They were absolutely amaazing, some groups specialized in breakdance, others locking and popping, very high level for amateurs. So I sticked around a bit around to enjoy these free perfomances...
... and an hour later I found myself in a private graduation party with a beer in my hand.
The Japanese academic year ends in March, and I learned that these poor 4 or 5th year students have to start their office jobs first of April. A bit sad to imagine all these creative, fun, energetic young people spending the rest of their lives as salary men and women...
Yaay cool funky students who speak English!
Kenji, the middle guy, asked me out after 10 minutes of conversation. Whoever said the Japanese are shy hasnt been here.
My Kobe couchsurfing 'date', Katherine, took me to a very hip mexican restaurant near the station. She's attending Kobe university to write a paper about manga, and we talked about integrating in Japan, the negative influence of Osamu Tezuka on the medium, and the remarkable absence of a manga underground in Japan ever since the 60ies. Very interesting to meet somebody seeing it from a research point of view, and the most fascinating talk about comics I've ever had.
The only things I know about Okayama is that it is on the route to Hiroshima, has a black castle and one of the top 3 gardens in Japan.
So that's what I visisted.
Hiroshima with its characteristic streetcars.
The A bomb dome, a ruin of one of the few buildings that survived the bombing in 1945
It is strange but the few structures that remain were directly below the explosion. Because the blast was from above the walls somehow had a better chance of survival. (the people inside had none at all of course.)
The museum is very impressive and covers every aspect of the event, including USA army correspondence ordering the bombing, and items belonging to the victims. The panorama pictures like these and film footage bring it very close.
But definitely the most emotional part are the drawings made by survivors.
Skin melted and eye out of socket, they talked about 5th degree burns I didnt even know existed. Could post much more about this museum but won't since it must be quite depressing to read. However, as soon as you exit the museum and see the busy city, sunshine and the park, you feel very happy and grateful for living in a safe place.
My next couchsurfing host, Mariah from the UK. We had such a relaxed and fun time, I did not only feel at home but I felt like I was at MY home.
She is teaching English and can do such funny impersonations of her students. I will never forget the mental image of her riding the roof of a trans siberia express to make it home for Christmas on time.
The cheerful bohemian interior.
Also in Hiroshima the magnolias are blooming.
This is the the Okinomi mura, a complex of 3 floors dedicated to only one food speciality:
Hiroshima style Okinomiyaki!
Cabbage, soba noodles, pork, egg, pancake dough, ginger and mayonaise and loads of other toppings I dont know the name of.
Taking the ferry to the island of Miyajima to take THAT picture. It's like the Eiffeltower of Japan, it's a must!
So there you go.
And another wedding!
This time mixed couple, it was so much fun to see the western family trying to cope with it all.
The local speciality is oysters, not the best combination with Udon in my opinion...
Hell yeah.
When I took this picture I thought "This is it, when I make the next photo album this will be the last picture. No way I can beat that in Fukuoka tomorrow". Turned out I was wrong. So this is Not the last picture.
The most famous building in Fukuoka is a shopping/buisness/hotel/theater complex with an artificial canal in it.
The city is known for party spirit and crazy festivals, including a sort of carnaval. Spot the shopaholics.
On the top floor is a game arcade with not just a photobooth, but a whole FLOOR of gigantic cabins where you can fit in with 7 people. Just like other game or slotmachines, each one tries to draw people with a unique 'theme' or style.
There are mirrorbooths, dressing cabins and even costumes for rent available!
Fukuoka is also known for Ramen (thin noodle).　Another floor was completely dedicated to ramen restaurants, serving all ramen specialities from all over Japan.
The Fukuoka Folk museum presented me with a private volunteer guide.
A large part of the museum was dedicated to the many festivals they have here, and originated in the poor side of town (Hakata). Once a year the people were allowed to cross the river to the rich part, and make fun of everything and anything.
Another BRILLIANT event that Im willing to return for in summer is the Yamagasa Matsuri. I was presented a documentary, and it looks insane: teams build huge wooden floats and then RACE eachother through the city. The spirit is a mix of a rugby match, marathon, and military practise.
Everybody has a role and its all very organized, its a incredible masculine and energetic thing. Just watch 3:00 of this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytNWiiK6SyE&feature=related
They also have a very special type of comedy that involves these masks!!
Another highlight of the museum were these flat fabric dolls.
Its a fascinating mix of graphic and realistic art.
Replicas showing 1900 life in Japan.
Traditional doll making.
This guy demonstrates a special Hakata weaving tradition for obis.
I could also try myself, but he told me I needed years of practise. I also had to call him Master.
In the nearby shrine they had a float from the old days on display, about 3 times the height they allow today!
Genious umbrella!
Fukuoka also one of the biggest entertainment districts in Japan, and it is here that I really noticed I was in a different part of the country. Not only is it a LOT warmer, the streets seem more chaotic, lively, there's more car honking and people seem to be more direct.
awww.
With all the hostess and host clubs crammed in the area, you see pretty women of all ages and styles. From trashy and cheap to elegant and in kimono, they are the modern geishas!
There are also a great number of flower shops open at this hour, probably a popular gift for your favourite hostess or mistress?
Like everything else, flowers are unnaturally good here.
Girls!
Guys!
Along the river are all these foodstalls selling beer, grill and ramen. The weekend starts here on Thursday.
And this can only happen when you're travelling alone: you take a picture with accidently some salerymen in the frame...
10 minutes later they treat you to ramen!
And beer in tiny glasses! How did they get so drunk already with such small quantities?
Well drunk isnt the word, they were just very very cheerful and kept asking questions about famous dutch tennis players and food.
Then the funniest of them discovered my camera.
The younger, the better their english is. The older guy on the left-middle with eyes closed is the boss. CONCLUSION: In my opinion this beats any sunset picture. Thank you Suntory guys!
