Four of us and 2 wheelbarows make the job go good. Was nice to have a cement truck also. This was about a 3 hour pour start to finish with waiting for foundation to set up a bit so it could hold the weight of the rest of the pour. Before structural hearth was poured the internal vertical supports had to come out so foundation set up timing was important. Also it was important not to disturb the retartant sprayed on the inside of door skins so the exposed look with the sprayed water etc would work.
After walls poured the 3/4" plywood goes in and some rebar (not shown) to hold the 3.5" pour to follow. This will be the stuctural part of the hearth
Rob and Terry the dynamic duo. 3.5" stuctural pour is leveled off and getting ready to put in the big floating puck
Kathy is putting on the anti stick solution.
In goes the giant floating puck. Six inch high perimeter pour around this and we are done.
This giant door skin-styrofoam puck was last to go into forms before final ring was poured.This puck came out the day after and the cavity left behind will be filled with cement & perlite to give the insulation needed under the oven.
The day after the pour Rob pulled of the outer form work and starts the exposed aggragate process.
Jig in center is for holding the bricks in place as they get mortored up to igloo shape. Door skin holding unit will be used at this size to mark & pre cut oven floor then it will be cut to fit inside dome for floor protector and jig pivot. After dome done I will dremel it out.
Still waiting for my firebricks to arrive. Dry testing some old welding bricks to see how the jig and wedgies will work
I think this is going to work ok. At the "T" intersection of the rotating arm I will need to leave about a 1/16th " space to brick edge so when lifting the arm up and out of the way for next brick placement the arm can clear. What seems to work is to slide in a wedge untill top part of new brick placement gets to about 1/16 th " away from the "T" intersection. Then I can swing arm out of way and place next brick. The one inch of heigth at the pivot point of hinge which lets the arch smoothly transition between the radius and the 19" is I think why I need that 1/16 space. Otherwise it will bind when you want to lift arm up and out of way.
Vermiculite concrete now in place. Waiting for my bricks to arrive now.
Bricks are here now! Dry fit in garage before the big day tomorrow.
First 9 bricks for vent and landing area today. Cantalever of slate will come out from first 3 bricks to serve as landing work space. I will do that last of all. Super 3000 mortar for these hearth and floor bricks. The hearth bricks up front with have spaces between and filled in with mortar unlike the cook floor that will have smaller spaces between the brick placement and those spaces are left for fire ash to fill in as the oven gets used.
Rain is now in the forecast so orange tarp should keep me dry
will back fill the brick suround somewhat tomorow and start on arch template and floor protector
will throw away this outer ring now and internal cut out will be used for oven floor protection and a pivot point for brick jig.
Back filled around the bricks with more of the vermiculite concrete mix. Seems to trowel better if you spray it with a misting bottle as you go.
Dry testing the brick jig for tomorows brick laying.
Small air space shown at the "T" of arm will let me swing arm out of the way and into position for following bricks. I plan to use a small wedge for rings of brick that need to rest on jig for the kind of a third hand.
The high heat mortar for thick gaps is hard to get looking good. The agragate in it is so course it is too rocky to smooth out with trowel it seems. Good thing all these joints will be hidden. Any joints that face the inside of oven or otherwise exposed I will trowel in my 3000 mortar which is much finer and looks a lot better.
The slate at front I will later cut and set to cantilever a few inchs past the footprint of the stand. The slate is shaping up to come out at the same level as the brick floor which is what I was hoping for.
Door skins are out now so I can Super 3000 the floor joints at the bottom edge of the dome. Tomorrow I will grind down any high spots on floor and put the door skins back in place and carry on with the igloo build.
This handy yelo shed was snaped up from Canadian Tire on sale for 130.00. My original tarp didn't work that great especially in the wind.
The end of round 2
Round 3 and the dry fit for the vent arch
Tomorow round 4 which will include the top of the vent arch.
Using two types of mortar here. The light grey mortar (SUPER 3000) I am now squishing into the small joints from the inside as the coarse mortar does not like these tight spaces.
Start of round 4 and end pieces of vent arch. These end pieces have to set up before I can do the top of arch.
Lucy is starting to drewl now. I better get a move on. I had promised her a November Pizza.
Round 4 done today. Will complete top of vent arch tomorow. Another arch sits in front of this to house the chimney. It will be much deeper and slightly higher and wider which will hide most of the front of the arch you see here. The arch shown here will only have the inner 1 inch visable from outside the oven.
Arch went good. Will be a taking a few days off now for Thanksgiving. Back at it on Tuesday.
5th round in now.
6th round now in place. Now working on a way to contain a pour of the mortar and small pieces of brick to fill in the transition area from 5th and 6th round of brick to the top vent arch area. Its tuff to cut the bricks in this area so hope this will be a bit of a work around. Will show pictures tomorrow of shaped styrofoam to hold this pour.
This is the same foam I used for the big floating puck that made the cavity in hearth for insulating concrete. It is easy to shape with sand paper.
The Moldit-X mortar is mixed on the thick side and a few smaller pieces of brick added in with the mix.
This grind off shown on the tip of the trowel helps for mixing mortar. You can scrape the bottom of the bucket with the point gone.
This shot looking down on the oven from above shows the 6th round linking into the door arch.The large area in grey is pretty much all mortar. Foam is now removed and the thick application of mortar looks good. I will do some grinding from the underside tomorrow to smooth out the rough edges.
8 bricks on today so hope to finish the 7th round tomorow. Bricks are now at a fairly steep angle (steeper than 45 degrees) so gravity is going to start to make it difficult to keep the bricks in place until the mortar dries.
The last of row 7 is sitting nicely on the mortar fill in treatment.
Round 7 now complete
Start of row eight. Needing props now to keep the brick in place till mortar sets on these upper bricks. Slope is steeper than 45 degrees now so they want to fall off the course below unless propped up with something.
Round 8 complete.
Getting tricky now to get bricks to stay put while mortar sets.
Looks like the plan now for the last few rows will be to set bricks as shown on one day and then fill in the gaps with mortar on the following day. Some people taper all there bricks so not so much mortar. The way I am doing it here shows how you need more mortar but less bricks to do it this way.
The (unreturnable for a refund now) garbage can lid has been glued to the blue foam for stiffness. This will get wedged up into the top of dome from inside and a castable mortar with stainless steel reinforcing needles added to the mix will be poured over top of the lid and foam. The test today went well with the lid covered in olive oil so the mortar doesn't stick to it.
Plastic lid and foam propped up with old fan blades(also now unreturnable). Concerned with the weight of the pour on these props so will only pour 1" thick first and key into wedge spaces in brickwork for strength. Then after curing will pour the 3" balance.
Garbage can lid is all greased up with olive oil now so castable mortar will not stick to it.
Leaving some bricks without first pour coating them so I can key into this uncovered brick part on the second pour. Not sure if it makes a difference, I guess the ideal or easier way would be to do it all in one pour but concerned with this weight on my supports underneath.
Looking up from the inside at the castable pour. Imprint in the center is the raised area from the plastic lid for handle.
Found a great spot to get interesting looking rocks. Plan to face the oven with these rocks. This will enclose the oven dome and contain the vermiculite insulation and also support the roof.
Rock sitting just behind slate will actually be closer to the outer edge of stand and continue up with rocks shown earlier. The rocks will continue around the entire perimeter outbound from the oven opening and landing. The slate will hang over the stand walls by and inch or two and will sit up higher so it lines up flush with fire bricks.
Getting ready for the landing arch way.
Taking out the jig pivot so someone can lay on there back and spread some mortar up into the ceiling area. This same dremel tool will work for taking out the whole floor when brick work complete.
New larger landing arch is attached to old vent arch template. Going with a larger landing arch it will leave behind a 1 1/2" inset for door to seat itself to. Door is only used after fire is out to retain heat for lower temp cooking. Door will be last on the list for oven construction. Leg assembly up front will get wedged to level jig before setting bricks and this wedge will also let the jig slide out freely from under the arch work after bricks set up.
Sits in place like so. Plan to start the brick laying this week.
Back in business now! This landing area is one of the few components you will actually see besides the inside of dome after all is complete. I will make sure this area looks good. Everything else will be covered over with river rock and insulation so a lot of the things that look a little crude now will be hidden.
Going with heat now for the overnights so mortar will set up.
My volunteer has shown up for the clostrophobic part of the inner dome work. His name is Neil. He likes pizza too.
He has been in there for quite some time now.
4th row of entrance arch....and by the way thank you Neil!
5th row of arch sides and first bricks on top part of arch
Front of arch now complete. The opening behind this for the transition area to the anchor plate for chimney stack will be the next step.
This vent opening will change in size as it moves upward to the 6 inch pipe for the chimney. The two pieces shown on the next picture will fit into the left and right sides of this opening. The pieces are wedge shaped to transition the sides of arch from 14" to about 10" so I have an area to mortar the anchor plate to.
Wedges as described in previous photo.
Door skins are now removed and they did a good job of protecting the floor. Brick jig for archway is also out of the way so I can now point the underside of archway.
I am flipping the anchor plate upside down and setting some bricks in place to smooth out the transition to the circle. The pipping originally protruded out of the anchor plate by about an inch or so, so I though I would at this point kind of smooth out this area out.
Side wedges now in place to transition to anchor plate.
This vent area will be the base to hold the pipe and anchor plate
Look at the same from up top.
Dry fit anchor plate.
Inside of vent looking up through pipe.
Fancy rotating rain cap in foreground. This will set on top of the 3 feet of 6 inch pipe. Next I will cover outside of dome and arch with more mortar and then insulation blanket then vermiculite concrete then type "N" mortar and river rock. All the stuctural work is now done, balance is just for insulating and apperance.
Set up for letting out the smoke and heat for curing the oven. Will have to use this system for a while even for cooking as the isulation and river rock facing wont be sealed and ready for the elements for some time. I can slip this all back to keep out the rain after the stack cools down.
Small fire but big day. 7 days of 100 degree increments for slowly curing this oven starts tomorow. Then comes insulation blanket,then vermiculite concrete insulation (4" thick) then it will be parged with type "N" mortar, then faced with the river rock, then finally sealed. Some stages need cure times inbetween so final completion maybee 3 months till take down of tent but should be able to start cooking in this oven in about 3 weeks.
Dry fitting slate for front of landing. Will face end grain with mild steel.
This will serve as a bit of support and a nice steel look for the front of the slate area at landing
Had a small fire today to get up to 4oo degress for the incremental curing.
Dry fit state and steel. If the sun is out tomorow I will mortar this into place and fire to 5oo degrees.
Slate now mortared in place. Oven curing now up to 600 degrees so one more cure at 700 and fill crack if any and then comes the insulation.
Incremental curing now complete. This fire reached 700 degrees at the inside top of the dome.
Put on the fancy insulation today. More of the wire mesh needed and then the layer of vermiculite concrete to complete the outer insulating.
A bit of tough luck today with the exhaust smoke a bit to hot for the roof. I peel back the roof about 18 inches from what is shown here so smoke can escape. The opening closed up on me after the fire got good and hot, and melted the roof. Ouch! This needs to be fixed as I dont want any rain water on oven for several months. Fire fly in the ointment for sure. I need to come up with a different system so I can slide the whole shed out of the way. Not as easy as it sounds though.
Lath on insulation now complete. Small river rock on top of arch in the foreground shows how the rock will hang over the arch a bit and then it will transition up and around the dome.
At the bottom of lath you can now see the vermiculite concrete that will cover the entire dome and most of the entrance arch way. As I went with 2" of the fancy white insulation I will just go with 2 or 3 inches of the vermiculite concrete. This should be plenty. Folks that have used this type of insulating report temperatures in the oven of 400 degrees 12 hours after the previous evenings firing. One would need to place the door over the oven opening after the fire is out for this kind of heat retention though. Next week should be PIZZA time!
I have forgotten how nasty this stuff is to work with. Very crumply and hard to keep it in place for vertical surfaces.
Vermiculite outer layer now complete.
Things will sit for a while now before the river rock treatment.
Pizza peel and brush for cleaning floor made from sheet aluminum and a brass welding brush.
These handles will work as a way to slope the door back and away from dome entrance so the oven can breath if you want to retain heat but also leave a small fire going in the oven. Normally if you use the door it would be upright and tight against the entrance way and no fire would left in oven. This would be the case for baking bread. With the handles spun to upright position it will rest in that mode.
This is the front half of the door. A similiar piece will be behind this. The 2 halves will be joined with a few pieces of flat bar away from the location of the handles as I dont want the heat to transfer from back of oven door to front. About a 1/4" space will be seperating the 2 halves except for the flat bar conection. Insulation will be placed inside the cavity of the 2 halves.
Door is coming along. Back half of fabrication,insulation and black high heat paint to go. The copper has taken on a nice patina with the heat from the torch giving some of the outer copper areas kind of a rainbow magenta cast. The hammered look came from placing a piece of rubber under the copper and beating it with a ball peanned hammer. Happy so far with this, hope the insulation will keep the door handles cool to the touch and I also hope the lay back positon of the door will work for keeping small fires in the oven and retaining heat
These two halves will welded together tomorrow.
This door is very cool but way too heavy. Works good but a lighter door may be in the works for the next oven I build.
Finally starting the river rock now. Once covered the mortar for this application sits for 30 days and then it can be sealed along with the rock and the exposed aggragate stand.
This door is working good. Handles stay cool as I had hoped for. Tipping it back is also a good way to fan the flames, kind of like just cracking the door on a wood heater in your home.
Garlic cloves in the can of beer and a spice rub on the chicken skin.
This grill was a home depot purchase and works quite well for grilling vegies. Spray with pam and just give the unit a shake while grilling.
Neil is becoming very handy in the kitchen.
Other than sealing all the mortar,cement work, and rock it is now complete. This latest edition shown here is a cover for the doorway to keep out the rain and wind.
Light color on stand shows the acid wash without the sealer over top. The darker color is the sealer being applied, the same sealer as was used for the river rock and type N mortar.
This torch is used for starting the fires. It is sold as a weed killing device that you run off of a 20 lb propane tank. It is also nice for giving things a bit of a jump if adding more wood when the flames have died down and you need heat in a hurry if say a couple of pizzas left to cook. Sometimes if you let the flames die down too far and add wood it takes too long to get things up and flaming. Works real good.
Shown above is the unit in start up mode. Kindling behind. 2 minutes of this and you have a nice fire going.
This has been a fun project. Cost more than I thought and a bit more work than I thought. Pizza's are now going very smoothly and Kathy and I will be also be baking bread in the next while. No more building pictures to be posted as this is the final look. Maybee some food pictures from time to time....the bergmans
This is the new roof for the pizza oven. Last winter saw too much water seeping into the oven area.
Trying to find the center of the oven in relation to the beam the roof will hang from. I also need to have an opening width for the span on the posts that will sit on oven shelf.
Can't go to wrong with my personal favorite Tremclad flat black.
Sourdough bread baked in cast iron pan.
A video of the cooking of a prawn pesto pizza can be seen from the link below..............
This Kiln Shelf I recently got is working good for a cook surface. I bought these as two cemi circles as the single piece would be too big to fit in oven doorway. I then welded two seperate rings of mild steel around them to hold them together so they dont seperate if you bang them with the peel when working the oven. The rings were made of two diferent widths so one side of the floor can kind of have a dam or lip to stop pizza from sliding into fire and ashes when working with the peel and then the other side that is lower is the side I brush the floor clean to. So far its working good and the kiln shelving only cost around 5o bucks. If it breaks or gets worn I can just replace it easy eneough. It is kind of nice to have the cook suface a bit raised of the ground as when coals are raked off to the side they don't fall back into the food area so easily.