1973 MG Midget as acquired for rebuild by 'Dave' from Chicago, who spent the next several years doing a stellar job of meticulous body restoration. I have his scrap book of nearly 100 photos showing the project. All of the 'heavy' work, up to photo #41 was done by him.
1993 photograph
A period example
The PO (prior owner) had sent for the cars specifics from the British Motor Heritage Trust http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgar/bmiht/bmiht.htmedit
How many prior owners have left their mark?
And so it begins......it really is that old. Notice the body number plate on the A-post. Photo taken 1993.
"What was it they told us that made us want to do this in the first place?" That must be the Limeflower color under the red.
If this doesnt make you run the other way..................
You know the advice the knowledgable ones always give? About buying "the best example you can afford". I never have followed that advice!? I always pick up some ratted out, rust infested, unloved, unwanted, abused derelict and think I'm doing some noble automotive service by saving it from the 'breakers' and 'scrappers' parting it out. Oh well, it takes all kinds, right?
Can we really make a silk purse out of a sows ear.......? ( We are surely going to try! )
Doorless, floorless, sill less. paintless, and dashless. It must belong to me alright!
MG Midget Not for the faint of heart............
media blasted
No rotisserie, just wooden work horses. ( Rotisserie, Rotisserie...we don't need no..............).
Finally some new metal!.
More sanding, bad metal being removed, new panels and repair pieces being placed. Who doesnt love new sills?
Lining up the fenders
POR-15 http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/ Its as great as youve heard.
Time to consider the outside of the car
POR-15 http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/ to tub , front , undercarraige, and boot. Door fitment.
Boot lid fitment
Trial placement wings, front valance, grill surround pieces, front assembly. Wings with filler primer .
Its starting to come around well now
Heavy sanding
F/S fill/sand; always more to do.
There is a little extra filler here and there
Testing the bonnet for fitment.
New metal placed, old metal cleaned and sprayed
All old rust gone, new metal put in, old metal given a second chance
There is always the option of an entirely NEW body shell from British Motor Heritage http://www.bmh-ltd.com/mini.htm
http://www.bmh-ltd.com/midgetparts.htm
Building a Midget body shell at British Motor Heritage in modern times. http://www.bmh-ltd.com/midgetshell.htm. Photos from Britishv8.org site.
Building a Midget body shell at British Motor Heritage in modern times. http://www.bmh-ltd.com/midgetshell.htm. Photos from Britishv8.org.
The eBay add had around 10 photos of the car (the bait!). This is the accompanying description (the hook!). The seller was a genuinely nice guy and very easy to deal with......( I bit!).
MG Midget All major body work done. POR-15 http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/ and Dupli-Color primer and sealer sprayed. I applied seam sealer liberally to the interior as well as the underside of the car prior to transport to the painter. This is what I bought as it was on eBay http://www.motors.ebay.com/........... and oh yes, the engine , the transmission, and about 30 boxes of bits!
A sample of the parts organized by the PO. The drawers came with the sale.
A box full of rubber. Maybe use the tire flaps.
Some boxes left me guessing
bits
Proper seam sealer location, from British Motor Heritage site: http://www.bmhweb.co.uk/bulletins/seam-sealing/midget.htm
'Toe' panels did have to be welded in before I flat bedded the car to the painters. One is laying on the drivers side floor. Seam sealer from Eastwood Automotive http://www.eastwood.com/seam-sealer-brushable-quart.html can be seen around the edges of the floor pans, foot well bottom, and around the edge of the tranny tunnel.
When the flat bed driver came to pick up the Midge to deliver to the painters garage he said, "you'll never finish it". "Why is that?" , I responded. He said that in 20 years of transporting he didnt remember one similar project being finished. Hmmm........that sounds like a challenge to me! Time will tell.
My daughter says the shell as it is reminds her of one of the sharks in 'Finding Nimo'! Do ya think....?http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/Pix/pictures/2009/1/16/1232132936747/Gallery-pixar-Finding-Nem-009.jpg
My ex-1974 MGB [parked in back] was a garage mate for a while. It was a decent rebuild; same painter. http://picasaweb.google.com/Minorsands/1974mgb#. Photo #17 in the MGB album shows a voltmeter placed in the center console. I plan to do similar on the radio console of the Midget.
The red primer at the very bottom of the front of the drivers side fender was a dent and scratch I caused while rolling the car around and running it into an axle stand. Fortunately a little amateur panel beating and primer spray made it good as new
This is my inspiration! The SUPERB rebuild done by Carl Heideman of Eclectic Motorworks http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/ for Classic Motorsports Magazinehttp://classicmotorsports.net/ in their article series, 'Modern Midget'.
The mixing table.
Closer to the color coat.
Modern paint, base coat, clear coat. Modern color [Ford Oxford White YZ]. The painter is a former professional, now in another line of work, however he will on occaision do a 'spray' for a friend. Especially if he finds the car interesting. He liked the Spridget! I read once that many British motor industry designers/engineers of the 50's, 60's, and 70's were former WW 2 era aircraft engineers. That seems plausable and it kind of shows in the cockpit and rakish exterior angles and lines.
The car came with the front assembly as is. I would have liked a double vented front valance, but acquiesced quickly so as to not delay getting the job started. (No regrets).
Here is a ebay UK ad example of my preferred front valance ( the one I don't have )
The painter spent several hours daily for a week preparing the body which was essentially already 'finished' from the PO, before we went to the auto paint store to buy the supplies. The painter is a friend of mine and he explained to me the difference between a 'bargain shop' respray, a 'serious show car' respray, and a 'Ferrari LWB California Spyder' restoration respray. He gave me the deluxe 'serious show car' preparation and respray.
New rebuild of front suspension was done prior to my purchase, (new wish bones. coils, stub axels, brake kit, etc) . Frontline brake kit with modified MGB calipers and 9 inch Spitfire rotors to go in at a later date.
No rust, just a little overspray.
Will it look like this always? At least I am off to a good start. I read in a MGB book in the past, ( I do believe it was a Jim Tyler book ?), to paraphrase; "Keeping a clean engine bay will never have one be ashamed to 'lift their bonnet' in polite company", true words that can be applied to many of lifes circumstances!
"Nice (pressed steel)."
The MG Midget sure is a sleek work. The PO has put in new leaf springs, straps, bump stops, and rebuilt the rear brakes. The hand brake mechanism is missing, I'll pick one up on Ebay.
Tub treated with truck bedliner material. Moisture will never find its way to these floor pans. This will also help with sound, heat, and vibration control.
My painter was a former body man, so he gave special attention to alignment throughout the job.
The rear brakes and rear suspension were rebuilt by the prior owner. The hand brake mechanism is missing, so I'll have to follow ebay for awhile. I havn't deside on the wheel wells yet.............. Rubberized undercoating, paint black, add truck bed liner, add extra clear coat and leave alone? They sure look 'clean' the way they are currently!
Hand brake balance lever, ferrule-cross rod, and link rod. Purchased from Ebay http://www.motors.ebay.com/ . Nice, clean, great condition pieces.
A good view of the truck bedliner treatment. Its great to know the POR-15 http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/ is under it all. So, the water barrier includes; POR-15, primer, base coat/clear coat paint, and truck bedliner. I'm considering a sound and vibration material vs. traditional undercarpet padding. The PO gave me a 5' roll of undercarpet padding.
Adding a few components makes it start to look like a MG. Fitting up the rear bumper then door hardware comes next.
Fitting up the dash and wiring loom will come soon enough
The intention of this project is not to have a period correct refurbishment, or a concourse or parade entrant. The purpose is to have a classic with as much modern componentry for reliability as possible, for around and out of town drivability, and perhaps going on a few club runs.
These are after market bumpers. The car originals were too badly pitted and rusted to use. The after market metal is thinner than the OE, and I'm sure the chrome is thinner. The cost of rechrome is $$$ that of buying aftermarket repacements. (NOS showed up on ebay after I bought the after market pieces, that would have been nice). It took two people, 20 minutes, and heavy duty ratchet clamps to get the spring bar bolted on to the bumper.
My first regret...........I added the stainless steel molding strip to the sill (rocker panel) length, (not shown in this photo), and wish I had not. It did turn out nice with the molding strip, however the white and black paint edge was a perfect and flawless smooth match, covered in clear coat. It really was good enough unadorned by trim. When all else is done..........I may have to see about removing it and patching the rivet holes (?).
Well, I decided on Dynamat sound and vibration deadening material. The foil backing will also help with heat deflection. Its sort of like a pliable roofing shingle material with an adhesive side and a foil side. Great stuff.
Dynamat in the doors. Fiddling with the door winding mechanism takes a lot of patience!
Door winding mechanism fitted.
I cut a piece of plastic to use as a gasket behind both pieces.
This is the original thin piece of self adhesive plastic found behind the door catch plates.
Cleaning up the hand brake mechanism and wire brushing the bolt heads is next.
Straightened out coat hangers, placed up to the proper locations, were bent to simulate the line placement. ( I didn't have the original lines to work with). This actually worked real well, and allowed for position checks and determining lengths, etc. Then, away from the car, I bent the actual aftermarket lines using the coat hangers as a template. Bending was done either free hand, or against or around pieces of dowel or rounded wood (like a thick hammer handle), I have a pipe flaring kit, and used the coiled 'tubes' included to insert my lines and decrease the risk of kinking while allowing for a smoother bend during the reshaping process, this worked real well.. I've seen the cars with the top point rebuild, and brake/clutch/fuel lines that looked as though they were computer generated they were so perfect......this isnt one of those,
I read a thread on British Car Forum about someones very sluggish wiper movement. He greased up the rack and gained speed and better movement. I liberally applied white lithium grease before feeding the cross head rack into the casing.
I dismantled the brake pressure warning assembly and found the piston and "O" rings looking nearly brand new. The coverplate covering the unused passengers side pedal box opening (at the top right of the photo) is stainless steel. It and a few other items were sourced on ebay UK from seller ashleyhintonmgparts2002. He sells several different Spridget stainless steel replacement parts. All top quality of the items I've purchased.
Lever shocks were refurbished at Apple Hydraulics http://www.applehydraulics.com/ by the PO. I did the after market tube shock hook-up on my prior MGB. It was good, but well sorted Lever's are the way I'll go from now on.
No motor mounts came with my boxes of parts. I bought some from Matthews Foreign Car Parts eBay store site http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/matthewsparts&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:SELLERID. After cleaning them up and giving them a couple of coats of chassis black paint, and fitting up new rubber and bolts and nuts, they are ready to go. The bonnet release cable is seen on the transmission tunnel housing above. Imagine trying to fit that up after the engine is dropped in!
Working on the trunk. The evaporative canister was cleaned and painted. The rubber trunk lid buffer pieces finish the seal, and give things a sense of purposeful forethought
I'm not too fond of the floor based 'accordian style' accelerator pedal found on the earlier model Midgets such as mine, so I bought the 1500 one piece version on ebay, when it comes will clean it up, paint it chassis black, and mount it up. I'll use a flat black trim paint to take some of the shine off of the Dynamat
All new wiper wheel boxes. The wiper cross head rack casing kit was not enough length to finish the job, so I purchased some copper casing at a local Lowes home supply store. Its a bit different size, but it fits great. Greased up the cross head rack very liberally with White Lithium Grease. Initially I tried using a 'flange' tool, on the ends of the casing pieces to fit on the wheel boxes. The tool I bought was not of good quality, and I didnt want to buy a good kit, thinking I would probably never have another need for it, I found the casing pieces secure just fine without flange ends.
Gotta keep it all light and in perspective!
Placing the proper bolts for the pedal box and wiper motor base is a process that requires patience, and bringing out the 'stubby', and angled, wrenches. I screwed in the brake light switch before placing the pedal box (yet another tip from a British Car Forum regular who has been there before me). The pedal box was given my usual cleanup, derusting, and painting. It took a good bit of work, but was worth the effort. New brake master and clutch master cylinders.
I had the motor rebuilt to stock specifications, but using many modern uprated components. Bored to 0.030" over gives it 1301cc. 9.0:1 compression ratio. ARP fasteners. Balanced. Aluminum head, bronze valve guides and stellite valve seats and valves for unleaded gas use. The Datson 210 transmission http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html was dismantled and refurbished as well. Rivergate Restorations,http://www.rivergate5speed.com/rivergate.html . And 423-332-2030 rivergate5speed@bellsouth.net.......another source for kit:http://billgariamotors.com/spridgetkit.htm
MG Midget Modern high torque starter, screw on oil filter, Datsun 210 five speed transmission and shortened gear shift lever. Rivergate Restorations http://www.rivergate5speed.com/rivergate.html. And 423-332-2030 rivergate5speed@bellsouth.net The distributor will be the Flame-Thrower with the undercap electronic ignition, preset advance curve, and drive dog supplied. I've given a lot of thought concerning the alternator and decided to stick with originality (Lucas), but to increase output a little from the standard 36 amp unit to the 43 Amp MGB unit ( I've got nice information about converting the Delco 100 amp, and Bosch 13107 units for installation, and will keep that on the back burner). I'll keep a used Lucas in the trunk box as an on the road spare.
To be placed.
The fuel tank was treated to primer, followed by Eastwood Chassis Black paint. I had some extra Rubberized Undercoating and gave a liberal drenching to the top of the fuel tank as well, since that is the area most prone to rust. This tank will never see rust ( In my life time any way). The side of the tank has a little rubberized undercoating over spray.......( it happens).
I attached two Carter P60504 fuel pumps http://www.amazon.com/Carter-P60504-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000BZX92K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1252888634&sr=1-1-fkmr0 'in line', to the arch between the rear cockpit bulkhead and the trunk floor. Carter pumps are supposed to be quieter than the Facet style cubed type, very reliable, and come with a preattached 'coarse particle' fuel filter. These should never have to be replaced for the life of the pump. I'll still use a standard annually replaced 'fine particle' filter in the engine bay. One pump naturally for regular use, and one for back up, controlled by a toggle switch in the cockpit. I'll have to wait untill all is done, the car is off axel stands, and fully weighted with engine, interior, a full tank of gas, people, etc, to make sure there is clearance with the axel and differential casing for the pumps at that location. Probably summer 2010. However, at this point it looks as though it will be ok.
This shows a left hand side to right hand side under view (i.e. left of photo is toward the front, right of photo is toward the rear). The copper fuel line coming off the fuel tank is seen on the photo right. It curves upward, and forward to curve toward the left hand side of the car (toward the viewer), to attach to the Carter pump fuel filter in the foreground, The foreground Carter pump then sends off a black fuel hose to the background Carter pump and attaches to its fuel filter. The background Carter pump then sends a black fuel hose toward the front of the car, and you can just see at the bottom left hand corner of the photo the copper fuel line connection that runs the undercarraige of the car to the engine bay. The slightly smaller copper brake line is seen just left of the fuel line. The whole series is run 'in-line', as a pump failure set up contingency. One pump will be wired per the loom standard. The other pump will run a wire to the cock-pit with a toggle control.
Fuel tank line and fuel sending unit wire exiting the tank.
Another view of the under arch over the rear axel
Undercarraige lines. Waiting for the drive shaft.
Entry point of fuel system wires; the fuel sending unit wire, the main fuel pump wire, and the back-up fuel pump wire.
When putting this together many MG Experience and British Car Forum folks shared photos of their vehicles to assist me in mine. Now I can add a few of my own.
The grouping includes the main fuel pump wire, the fuel tank sending unit wire, and the accessory fuel pump wire. RH side upper boot. I have been rightfully informed that the hole I chose for the wire passage was original to the fuel tank evaporative canister hose. If I decide to leave these wire here, I will obtain some protective tubing and tuck the bundle over to the side as much as possible to avoid 'in boot damage', (thanks Norm and Andrew on MG Experience Spridgit forum).
Carpet and Trim kit from Moss Europe http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/home.aspx. 3M Trim Adhesive used for the carpet, easy to work with. Carpet required a little trimming as expected. Finished pieces on carpet very nice. Carpet piece on rear bulkhead shown, only glued at vinyl trim attachment. The Trim Kits available seem to be of outstanding quality, however no screws and cups came with it. Fortunately I had some left over from a prior project.
Finished boot carpet kit. Chose black to contrast with biscuit interior. A real nice Victoria British kit. 3M trim spray adhesive was used for side carpet pieces. Main boot floor piece not glued.
Rear done. The 3 pronged black plastic trunk emblem didnt fit the 3 pre-drilled holes exactly, and the point of the triangle plastic prong snapped off. Its either an aftermarket design measurement flaw, or this was not the original 1973 boot lid. Perhaps the earlier boot lids, or the 75+ models had emblems with slightly differing prong specs (?). At any rate, two prongs seem more than secure enough. (the MG plate was in my boxes of parts from the PO).
I like these front bumper/valance rubber grommets from Moss http://www.mossmotors.com/. They add a finishing touch. (I suppose the finishing touch is to distract from the GIANT washers!). I could grind the tops down to finish them I suppose?
I obtained nylon washers from a local NAPA store to use for contact between the bumper mounts and the paint, (they are white ).
After much searching and hunting for placement direction, I finished the fuel and brake lines, both were Autotec kits. The copper-nickel brake pipes were obtained from Moss Motors http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=58642, and the copper fuel lines were obtained from Victoria British http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=83. BCF J-PS deserves a TY from me! Its always so easy after seeing it once. I only used one of the plastic clips supplied with the after market line kits. Under the car I used the 'bobby pin' clips used on earlier spridgets. They fit in the holes in the under rails real well, and are as strong and secure as can be.
I have relied heavily on the internet, downloading photos of rebuilds, and parts. Ebay Spridget sellers have a tremendous amount of helpful photos in their ads. This persons engine bay detail helped me with several placement items, (as one example).
Undercarraige showing the right hand side rail with the fuel line in the outer location, and the brake line in the inner position. The exhaust system not yet placed.
This view shows the fuel line on the outer side of the right hand side under carraige rail, going into the engine bay area, where it follows left along the inner edge of the opening, then it can be seen courseing along the left hand side of the edge of the engine bay, all the way to the front cross piece visible, then upward, infront of the Lever shock, to connect to the rubber SU carburator fuel hose.
This box has most of the dash cables. (There is that red paint again!). I like the 'B' on the bonnet pull knob, but the plastic and letter fixture is to old and fragile to use. Looks like a brake light switch in the mix as well, ( I better save that one, with the quality of the after market units being precarious). All of the behind the dash cables have been replaced.
The aftermarket dash replacement piece. Very well molded. Looks beautiful. It comes without holes cut out. They must be cut by the buyer. It fits well up against the metal dash. DO NOT cut off the passengers side 'pillow' foam on the metal dash! It does not come with the replacement piece. I read 2 web descriptions of how to fit up the dash replacement to the metal. For me, I cut one of the large gauge holes with a x-acto knife after very lightly heating the vinyl to make it more supple, then test fitted the gauge through the piece and the metal. Leaving the gauge in as a positioning anchor, I outlined the back of the next large hole, and after good scrutiny, determined its position was ok, then removed the piece and cut out that hole. Replaced both gauges for position, and followed through for the rest of the openings in like fashion. A couple of holes came out with a semi-noticable mismatch, but I'm pleased overall. The piece comes with good instructions on proper gluing.
This shows the varying thickness of the foam backing at different locations on the replacement padded dash. The bottle cap makes a good reference
I've learned a good way to remove the securing rings from the warning and turn signal light housings is to use a pair of hobby needle nose pliers with a fine point. Pry up 3-5 of the 'teeth', and the ring can be easily lifted off. Then the teeth can be repositioned for reapplication. Do not discard the metal ring...as far as I know they are not available for purchase.
With the teeth of the ring flattened, hold the securing ring flush to the dash-board metal, then easily press the indicator and turn signal housing pieces into proper position for a tight grip.
I ordered a new dash facing replacement. Its a beautiful piece out of the box. Foam back with a molded black vinyl front. All of the instrument and control and lamp openings require cutting for placement. Switches and gauge bezels nicely placed and snugged in the openings. The heater control knob opening on the left was not able to be fitted. The foam backing did not allow the heater control knob screws to reach the back for attachment. I may do without a heater control knob, or relocate it to the radio console. My gauges were all refurbished by Nisonger Instruments http://www.nisonger.com/ in Mamaroneck, New York. Great service, they turned out as nice as brand new.
The choke and dimmer knob fit well. The light rocker switch is snugged in, not enough room in the back to attach the clip due to the foam thickness glued to the vinyl. However, there is no way for it to come loose, unless forceably pryed. I was lucky, I found a pair of BEVELED blue and red indicator lights from earlier Spridgets on ebay. The green turn signal indicators are a neat solid dark green, from a Jaguar parts supplier.
It does look real nice. Leave the under vinyl passengers side foam padding! Do not scrape it off, you need it for the fitment of the replacement dash. You would be tempted to remove it from the metal initially, but this is not supplied with the replacement, and, as is stated in the replacement dash instructions, no glue on this foam!
This view is to show the bezels sitting on top of the vinyl, not buried into the foam as I've seen on other replacement dash jobs. My preference is for the more 'proud' presentation of the instruments and other gear. It makes for a great looking fascia.
The opening shows where the heater control knob apparatus would go. You can see the thickness of the foam. And note the rocker switch placement. It was a frustrating dilemma for me, this foam thickness issue. ( Since finishing mine, I've read on mgexperience.net where one fellow simply sanded the backing foam untill it allowed proper fitment.............sheeeeeesh! sometimes the most obvious is the most elusive ).
The vinyl was not initially cooperative with the fold over gluing to the metal. I carefully used a heat gun to soften the vinyl , then sprayed 3M Trim Adhesive (after taping paper masking), which gives up to several minutes for positioning before needing contact , then pressed the vinyl to the metal with good sticky contact, a few small plastic clamps, and several minutes of finger and thumb 'clamping' until firmly adhered. I did this one portion at a time for control.
The metal dash was in great shape when I removed the old vinyl. It had some surface rust. I wire wheeled it off, then gave a couple coats of Rust Encapsulator primer from Eastwood. The arch in the metal that sits over the steering cowl is stiff, with the vinyl and foam extending past the metal edge. I test heated it with the heat gun, and it stretches beautifully over the cowl.
The vinyl was gently warmed with a heat gun, then lightly stretched for pressure marking of the screw positions. Then I simply used a school style single hole punch to make the hole. All of the lamp wires will need bullet nipples soldered on. Good folks from British Car Forum gave me great instructions: #1. using 25-35 watt soldering iron, 'tin' the end of the wire with solder and let cool, #2. clip the bullet nipple securely , #3. heat the bullet nipple with the soldering iron , #4. place the exposed wire end in the bullet nipple, #4. touch the solder to the hole tip, the solder will wick inside, feed the solder to fill
The finished item.
The back of the finished item waiting to be mounted. The oil gauge line shown is not available currently in the catalogs. It can be purchased any length from an auto parts store with an end nipple to be soldered on and 1/4" NPT brass end nut for attachment to the gauge. The nipple and nut are available from Mossmotors. I ordered the finished piece from Moss Europe, its a little short, but the rubber hose through the cowl wall opening shoule be ok.
This is my favorite Midgetdom photo on the web.
Another of my favorite web photos. This was from a Ebay UK for sale ad.
Modern MG Midget design exercize.http://www.channel4.com/4car/gl/gallery/gallery/761/3
This is the cars parcel tray and door (the glove box). A little tired and torn. I decided the interior would suit me better, and be a little more elegant if it didnt have the 'glove box' door. So a finely crafted aluminum parcel shelf will replace it.
Parcel shelf made of aluminum to replace the cardboard like parcel shelf with the glove box door. I plan to line the inside with a black vinyl I purchased to refurbish the door cap pieces. Available through eBay UK seller: http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/charliereed55/. He needed to know the application is for LHD.
The inside view of the parcel shelf. Well constructed. I do not fore-see missing the 'glove box' door
The 'crash rail' on the front of the parcel shelf
This is a view of the Frontline Midget uprated brake kit, sourced from Moss Europe (http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=8124) . Modified MGB calipers to fit the Midget, 9" Spitfire rotors. Steel braided brake lines. This should actually compliment the stock rear brake set up well, and should improve stopping power measurably. Will fit this up soon.
The grill required very little cleaning up. Just a little wipe off, and black trim paint. I still like it better without the internal chrome surround piece. One of the tabs is broken off on the top edge, and I'll repair it a little later on.
I chanced apon this cream and brown grill badge ( colors for MG TC and TD badging) on ebay. My car will have light tan interior trim, a darker tan carpeting, and biscuit seat upholstery. It will be a nice cue for visual continuity. I may not add the stainless steel color inside grill surround. IMHO the grill looks much more bold without it. Will decide when front headlights are placed, the grill opening surround pieces are rivited in, and the bonnet is aligned and finished.
Not the best light, but the badge centers real well, and looks like it belongs from original
This is the back of the grill and plinth, I didnt have to modify anything, just added a lock washer. Plinth already had the hole, as did the grill
Kumho 175/70/R13 tires http://www.tirerack.com/index_w.jsp mounted to Australian made Superlite 13x5.5 JJ wheels ( http://www.vtoperformance.com/) wait to be placed. I will need wheel hub spacers and slightly longer lugs for them to fit, (sourced from The Winners Circle in Cleveland, Ohio http://www.spridget.com/). The polished outer portion against the black rubber, and silver/gray center really makes them stand out. I credit Carl Heideman from Eclectic Motorworks ( http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/ ), and his great Modern Midget articles in Classic Motorsports magazine http://classicmotorsports.net/ for this idea. The wheel center caps have a 78mm outer diameter hole. The MG logo is a 44mm diameter raised plastic self adhesive piece found at http://www.gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=006%2DMG%2Dx4
Raised soft vinyl style MG logo wheel caps add a nice touch
44mm MG logo hub cap self adhesive MG logos are available from GBCARPARTS.com http://www.gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=006%2DMG%2Dx4 They fit perfectly and look great.
Mounting the Superlite wheels requires use of a spacer and longer wheel lug. A standard Midget stud is shown above next to the required replacement. These are available from The Winners Circle; http://www.spridget.com/, and those fellows are ready to help with proper recommendations.
Another of many great ideas from Carl Heideman from Eclectic Motorworks in Holland, Michigan; http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/index.html in his 'Modern Midget' article series in Classic Motorsports Magazine; http://classicmotorsports.net/, is upgraded swivel axels. These are heat treated for additional strength and have an additional support welded in. Sourced from The Winners Circle: http://www.spridget.com/. They are recommended generally for durability and longevity, most especially with wider tires.
New kingpins and bushing set to compliment the rest of the front end rebuild. These pieces were obtained form The Little British Car Company, http://www.littlebritishcarco.com/. Jeff at LBCarCo is great to deal with, as accomodating as anyone I've ever had web order dealings with, and adds a little 'Pavlovian treat' to most orders.
Though I will not be straining the car in competition, I still decided for some performance type upgrades. Timkin tapered front wheel bearings and new oil seals will help modernize the front end. They were sourced through 'The Winners Circle' in Cleveland, Ohio; http://www.spridget.com/. Advice given to me, on top of the usual bearing replacement protocol: [1] throw away old spacer, [2] snug up the new bearing, then back off a bit until good play, [3] may need to file the nut a bit until good play, [4] new seals.
3/4" front anti-roll bar with hardware kit came from The Winners Circle; http://www.spridget.com/, to replace the 9/16" stock unit. It should vastly improve cornering. Nylatron bushings will replace the stock rubber for the front. This is another great lead from the Carl Heideman http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/ articles; 'Modern Midget', in Classic Motorsports magazine http://classicmotorsports.net/
Black leather gaiter for the interior. This well crafted piece was found on ebay UK (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/pjm-motors/) What a difference well sewn real leather makes. Black trim will compliment the biscuit and beige interior.
I was going to use the standard 'MG' shift knob, however I came across these Momo http://www.momo.it/ knobs on eBay http://www.motors.ebay.com/ . The middle one is a NOS contoured wood Zebrano style, The one on the left is a NOS wood and leather Shadow. Will decide when the interior is completed.
14" MotoLita wheel http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/ . Three spoked drilled in black.
When I first ordered the Motolita steering wheel hub, I was expecting the standard red badged center. This one came instead, I looked at it for several days before deciding I really appreciated its understatement, and decided it was ideal for my interior. Thank you Jeff at Little British Car Company http://www.littlebritishcarco.com/
This steering wheel is available to me. Now I have to choose between black drilled and chromed slotted.
Before refurbishing
Carbs were refurbished by University Motors in Ada, Michigan. I thought about a Weber, (had one on my 'B'), but emailed a tech guy at Moss UK a couple of times, and he explained the superiority of the SU, which was "over" engineered with superior street/ racing funtionality, very specific for the vehicles mounted to. Besides, don't you love it when people look at your engine bay and say, "hey, what are those!?".
I did a lot of web searching to find pics of the linkage to put these together. There are lots of SU photos, not lots of clear linkage photos. I finally saw 1973 SU carb photos in great condition for sale on eBay, with 3 great pictures. Thats all I needed, I had these together in 5 minutes. OldGreyNorm http://stores.shop.ebay.com/oldgreynorms-Britain-Bits__W0QQ_armrsZ1 , he sells good Spridget parts and takes great photos!
SU HS-2 (1 1/4")
I did make one change to the otherwise superb SU HS-2 carburetors..........I substituted Grose jets. Shown here is the Gross Jet with the visible ball end on the left, and the standard needle and jet on the right. I've been reading about them for too many years, with never a discouraging comment, and always positive commentary. http://www.bayshorecad.com/Sleds/Literature/Carbs/Grose-Jet/Grose-Jet.pdf
Grose jet http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29281&SortOrder=32#top http://www.mossmx5.co.uk/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=grose%20jet&WebCatalogID=39
Removong the steel pin to separate the float bowl from the lid with needle nose pliars, to change the needle out and insert the Grose jet.
The standard needle and jet positioned in the float lid. Finding a tool to remove this was a search. I finally found in the back of my work bench drawer a little ratchet screw driver with 20 or more head attachments that did the trick.
The work surface.
I placed the Grose Jet into the upside down float bowl lid. To set the float level I placed a screw driver shaft a little less in diameter than 3/16" between the upside down float bowl and float lid. This allowed the float bowl to just sit on the Grose Jet.
I saw this K&N air filter back in my MGB days and didnt forget about it. I think its a great piece for the engine bay. Aside from the fact that I like the way it looks, it is a K & N sport piece, so it should add to engine performance. http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Spares_1275_175.html
K & N competition air filter. http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Spares_1275_175.html
A well cut carpet kit from Victoria British http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=69. Digital cameras catch so much light! I didnt notice when I took the photo that I should have vacumed first. It really is a lush black.
The kit even has a piece to cover the area under the lock catch.
fuse box with new wires
Clutch hydraulic line placed. Used the 'bent coat hanger' method here as well, bending the actual lines out side of the car to match the shape of the coat hanger. It was much easier than dealing with the lines unshaped in the engine bay and under the vehicle. I was absent a master cylinder to hose clutch pipe, and sourced this one from Moss-Europe http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1319#top.
I plan to not have a radio, and found this one inch rubber plug from VB MGB parts catalog ( 12-504 driveshaft oiling hole plug ) fits the antennae hole perfectly and looks rather purpose made.
Another dilemma! Windscreen frame rubber seal is near non-compressable in the middle. I've had many suggestions on British Car Forum, and MG Experience.........I continue to weigh my options.
I ordered Industrial Strength Velcro 10cm x 5 cm strips from Amazon.com to hold down the carpet piece above the rear bulkhead arch piece.. I cut them in half and placed a square in each corner. Placing the velcro was easy enough....remove the adhesive plastic backing and place the four squares where desired on the car, test fit the carpet, then individually place the velcro mate piece on one corner, remove the plastic adhesive backing, lay the carpet on top for a 'stick', then do the next, and the next, etc.
The carpet piece holds down very well. In fact, the velcro seems stronger than the adhesive backing! ( I didn't want to screw into the metal, or glue it to the section).
Bits and Pieces (items such as these must have been the motivation for DC5). Thanks to folks on British Car Forum I now know #1 are tapping plates for door hinge, # 2 & 3 are lower dash attachment pieces, #4 is the odometer trip turnscrew under dash holder, #5 dosnt belong to my car at all, its from a Bug Eye Sprite, and #6 is a stiffener piece for the velcro attachment piece for the front of the hood on the outer of the cockpit surround.
I found a nice tech article on valve cover polishing http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97179 and might give it a try. The worst that can happen is I dont do a good job and end up taking it to a shop to polish. Or, use the very good OE valve cover already on the engine , cleaned and painted during the rebuild. A simple hand drill buffing and polishing kit was purchased http://www.sears.com/shc/s/v_10153_12605_Tools?adCell=AH&psid=53194320&sid=ISx20070515x00001c that included the polishing compound bars. A rotary tool will help for the difficult to get at areas. I'm thinking of using J-B Weld http://jbweld.net/index.php to build up the damaged fin (?), alternatively, I may take it to a shop that does aluminum work (?).
I placed the Oil Cooler from the Moss Kit http://www.mossmotors.com/. The entire kit is superb. Very good directions come with the kit.
I decided not to do the drilling and connection fittings hook up to the new gas tank to fit up the evaporative candensing canister and its hoses. Ten years ago I wrote to the then NAMGBR technical advisor for the identical situation on a MGB, and he sent me this letter on an alternative option............ So, another cap drilled (inside only, not through and through). Did you know?......the North American MGB Register has a 'Spridget' register http://www.namgbr.org/midget.htm
I'm thinking of placing the side mirror on the quarter light vent window frame , so as to not drill into the door skin. ? . I'll let a little more time go by with other things to do first, before I decide. I like these 60's era Lucas styled mirrors much more than the TEX style original to my year car.
Truck bedliner treatment painted on undercarraige as well as body tub above. The orange color in the cavity is actually a little Eastwood Rust Encapsulator spray I had surplus of and sprayed into those two openings. http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html . (What are those openings for anyway?)
Undercarraige with truck bedliner painted on. The painter told me he thinned the bedliner to allow use of the sprayer, and applied several thin coats for a build up.
When I began wire brushing off the old paint from the radiator overflow tank I found this nice 'brass ' metal underneath. I read in a restoration book that the reason Abingdon painted them black was to allow a better heat transfer to the atmospher, thereby assisting in engine cooling. I decided to clean it up and leave it unpainted. But not wanting to decrease heat energy dissipation I put on several coats of satin clear finish from Eastwood hoping this would accomplish the same end as the original black paint. http://www.eastwood.com/paints/clear-coats/ew-diamond-clear-satin-bare-metal-aerosol-11-oz.html.
The heater unit was completely dismantled and refurbished. Paint stripper followed by wire brushing and then wire wheel on a hand drill got to bare metal. New rubber for the air intake flap was placed, as was new soft foam for the heating element wrap around, and new dense foam for the base cushion. New outer clips with approriate decals finished it nicely, and anti-rust primer outside and inside will offer protection. Compare it finished to photo #5 where it was ingloriously swathed in blue paint.
The back side. A good deal of surface corrosion can be appreciated in the photo. Fortunately its superficial and has no structural significance. As I mention throughout the photos, I use Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator for just about everything. On a MGB I kept for 10-12 yesrs it held up totally http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html. This was followed with black trim paint.
Thats new rubber around the air control flap. The inner metal of the heater unit was a rusted mess too. I cleaned it up as well as the air flap, as seen above.
The cabin fresh air vent doors needed wire brushing and painting.
The fresh air vent doors were stripped of their paint, brushed of their rust, and repainted as new. Visible is the single piece (1500cc model) accelerator pedal, cleaned up and mounted. I'll put a little more flat black spray on the top half of the Dynamat as some of it will be visible above the carpet and panel trim.
When temporarily fitting the grill I noticed I didnt fancy the white background of the front panel assembly showing through from behind. TB on British Car Forum was kind enough to show a photo of his red Spridget with a painted black retro-grill area. It looked great. I did like the silver metalic look of the aluminum oil cooler just visable behind the grill slats. So, decided I will paint that area the same color. The masking may not be pretty, but its unpenetrable.
Finished front panel assembly spray. I used Dupli-Color Truck, Van & SUV T229 Siver (M) from NAPA after a very light 320 grit sand, and a little once over with a scuff pad. It read as specially formulated to be used over any painted surface, (5 light coats), followed by Eastwood Diamond Clear for Painted Surfaces (5 light coats). It should hold up to the elements well. And, it achieved the effect I was after, a bit of contrast from the body color and grill black .
I placed the rubber cockpit surround, the six Tenax studs, and the seven 'Durable Dot' fasteners. I figured out the rubber surround has one side contoured to allow 'hiding' of the nuts of the pegs on the inside. I also figured out the peg length is not long enough ( 3/8" is the standard) to accept a lock washer and be able to attach the nut. I'll have to wait untill the rubber is compressed over a day or so and then place one by one. When its time, I'll unscrew the 'Durable Dot' fasteners and place the stainless retaining strip over the rear collar of the hood material. The screws holding the 'Durable Dot' fasteners screw directly into the surround metal, and have no nut.
The rubber cockpit surround never did flatten out to allow the lock washer to be placed. I eventually ordered the 5/8" length Tenax stud (the 3/8" are the standard length) from Moss Motors http://www.mossmotors.com/ , and SAE Grade 2 chrome #10 flat washers from http://www.BoltDepot.com. This allowed me to have a broader outer rubber contact area, the chrome also highlights the studs much more assertively. Behind the rubber is a standard flat washer, followed by a nylon flat washer for the painted metal contact. Then through the hole in the cockpit surround metal, where 'now' the lock washer and the nut fit properly and securely.
After placing the rubber windshield frame to body seal, (from a major supplier), I was faced with the situation where the lower center rod bracket would not reach to screw down, [see photo #75] . The rubber was near noncompressable. I tried numerous suggestions and ideas to no avail. Finally, I ordered a seal from MacGregor British Car Parts http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT, and easily worked the MacGregor seal on the winshield frame, got the frame and windscreen bolted in, and the center rod bracket and bracket packing shim secured in place. It took under 1 hour to do, was a perfect fit, and is problem free. So I say, "much obliged Mac!".
These are two sources of windshield frame to body seals. The one on the left is from a 'major supplier'. The rubber is very firm with what I now describe as an unfavorable elasticity. Also, notice the wider 'fin' on the 'keel', making it difficult to fit into the groove at the bottom of the windshield frame. The (wonderful) piece on the right is from MacGregor British Car Parts out of Ontario, Canada http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=MG. A truly remarkable piece of rubber, molecularly superior in flexability and compliance. The 'finned keel' is easily wedged into the groove on one side, then the other side is gently eased into position with a plastic windshield tool, requiring only 5 minutes of work, without lubricant or unkind words. The extra 'lip' on the left hand piece is not noticed or missed on the right hand piece when fitted to the frame.(IMHO)
The rubber windshield/frame seal finished and placed, looking right and proper. Use of this green 'windshield stick' from Victoria British made the job a snap, and allowed to not bother with lubricants, soap, tape, wire, string, or any other aids for fitment.
Another 'end on' view. This is of door seals. The one on the left is Furflex. It is nice. It has folded over aluminum pieces that run the length of the seal that serve to 'clip' on to the metal edge of the door. It works well, I've used it on two vehicles. The example on the right is a Bristleflex seal available from Moss and MacGregor British Car Parts. It has a steel wire core, and as can be seen the rubber 'fingers' to grab the frame edge. An 'as original' product. Reading different threads has given me the impression that this may be the choice product. This is the piece to go on my Midget.
I decided to replace the U-joints since the drive shaft was off the car. Fortunately the OE Hardy-Spicer brand is readily available. The flange was painted up as nice as the shaft, however placing the U-joint resulted in a little scuffed finish. Following the guidence of internet instructions, I took it apon myself to take on the job. After all, it reads as simply a little 'tap here' and a little 'drift there'. And the circlips! ........one just cannot imagine the experience of removing a couple of old circlips with broken ends!!!
I wire wheeled the drive shaft before spraying it with Eastwood Rust encapsulator http://www.eastwood.com/. Then I sprayed 3 coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black, their most chip resistant finish. The tools in the photo are shown as a reality check. The red colored [tool] is my 'tapper', and the other [tool] is my 'drifter'. Add about 90 minutes of time, a good bit of sweat, and a few passing moments of hopeless futility, and eventually the job gets done. (There is actually a very nice write-up on removing and replacing a U-J in the Grahame Bristow book, 'Restoring Sprites & Midgets', on page 60 and 61).
The exhaust manifold was cleaned up with a wire wheel on a hand drill, then painted with Eastwood Satin Black High Temp Coating for manifolds and headers http://www.eastwood.com/. They claim a temperature rating to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit. I like the way it looks.
The right side splash panel and engine bay prior to clean up and paint.
The splash shields were pretty rusty, but solid. They were treated with the wire wheel, then soaked and scrubbed with a rust remover and inhibitor. This was followed by Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator spray. Rubberized undercoating was sprayed on, allowed to dry for several days, then finished with two coats of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint http://www.eastwood.com/. [ Now they are ready for dry weather/summer/no rain/never taken out in ice and snow motoring ;-) ]
I read about this 'Brake Light Switch Relay' on a British Car Forum thread. I then found the sellers web page and decided to place one on my car. This is it. It makes sense to me and I will place it when I get moving on the wiring loom. http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Electrical/General/Brake_Light_Relay.pdf
The seat runner rails that came in my boxes included the 4 on the right. They are not currently available in the catalogs. They have a bit of surface rust, but are essentially whole and strong and should clean up well using my usual modus operandi. I'll start on that a little later on. The 4 runners on the left were not in my boxes of parts from the PO. Fortunately, these items are available aftermarket from the usual sellers.
I wanted a kind of 'freer flow' exhaust system. The Falcon stainless steel system, guaranteed for life, seemed like a good choice. When I read that it has a great throaty exhaust note, that helped me make up my mind.
The Falcon 1275cc Stainless Steel exhaust system. The manifold flange is part of the kit.
The original wiring loom. I decided at the onset to not reuse it. I obtained the excellent color correct laminated poster size wiring diagram on eBay, sold by Prosperos to help with placing the new loom.
I ordered a modern solid-state voltage stabilizer from 'Bits4Brits' , (seen on the cowl assembly wall): http://www.bits4brits.net/Stabilizer.html. It is a direct replacement for the OE contact breaker type. This unit is designed to maintain a steady 10v stream at all times without fluctuations as might occure with the older technology units, thus sparing potential harm to the gauges. Looks the same as original.
The modern solid state voltage stabilizer on the left, and the 1275 two prong flasher unit on the right, mounted to the cowl assembly 'fire wall' unit over the passengers side foot well, which would be behind the dash were it mounted, is shown for those like me, who might need a photo reference for reassembly. The flasher unit holder was a rusted mess in a box the PO had labeled 'UFO's. They are not available aftermarket. I removed the rust and painted it a Cadmium paint. When the 'knowledgeable ones' on the forums say to "save everything", more sound advice was never given.edit
This view is looking down into the bottom of the door. The 'foil' like material on the side is Dynamat sound/heat/vibration material. The metal pieces to the left are part of the window winding mechanism. And the reason for the photo is the black felt covered piece on the bottom. This is a 'stop-pad' for the door glass when fully down. I had none in my parts boxes from the PO. They are available fortunately through Ebay UK seller................Ashleyhintonmgparts2002. So, here it is in-situ.
Any wiring diagram will do. In fact I have two manuals with good drawings. However for me, the best is that offered by Prosperos on ebay. They are beautiful, color correct, poster size, laminated, car specific drawings.
Test fitting the radiator mounting bracket
Test fitting the left hand side 'splash' gaurd
Test placement of the radiator expansion tank over the splash guard
The right side rear tail and side lamp wiring connections. This new side lamp assembly has wiring color different from the wiring diagram designation. The side marker lamp wire should be red according to the wiring diagram, but it came as green, (as seen above). Fortunately, earth is still black. But, its easy enough to sort through.
Some of the original pieces that came with the purchase
There was no rear engine mount in my boxes of parts. I bought a used one from a well supplied Ebay seller, 'Matthews Foreign Car Parts'http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/matthewsparts&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:SELLERID , and spent a good deal of time degreasing it, then cleaning it well with metal wash . After that was done I did my tried and true Eastwood Rust Encapsulator primer, followed with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint http://www.eastwood.com/. Mount pads, and tie bar, as well as new nuts, bolts, and washers from Moss.http://www.mossmotors.com/
The rear top corner of both left and right stainless steel side vent frames on my 1973 had cracks inner and outer . On Ebay http://www.motors.ebay.com/ these (earlier model) chrome pieces became available. They were in outstanding shape. I did change the vent window and seating seal, as well as the corner finisher and all associated chrome screws, and the pivot spring on the under side.
The grill surround is really going to need some cleaning and attention. Fortunately the bright metal is an easy clean and polish, and the black will look like new with black trim paint.
I sourced a Stebel ( Flosser-Germany) Nautilus compact 135 decible air horn, through the helpful suggestions of British Car Forum, (Amazon.com). Here I'm test fitting it bolted through one of the not used accessory hose openings. The horn placement obstructed the grill fitment by about 1/8 inch unfortunately, so I'll have to reposition it more toward the center, requiring drilling of a bolt hole. Much as I never enjoy drilling into the Midges sheet metal, I have determined it will fit if I drill a hole in the blanking plate covering the unused airduct opening on the cars left. Also, test placement of the painted grill surround pieces seems to fit well.
Test fitting of finished grill, and bonnet 'down' for a change. The bottom and side grill surround pieces have been rivited in, and the bonnet alignment seems good. I dip the rivit barrel (the end) in Waxoyl prior to placement. I did similar ten years ago on another MG, and when checking, have found evidence the Waxoyl still remains. I still like the grill without the inner grill molding.
The dash lamp wires had no bullet nipples, and required soldering on. I hadnt used a soldering iron since around the time Yoko split up John and Paul, and I wasnt particularly good at it then. I had proper technique described to me on the forum, but my best efforts did not produce good results. I then found a technique on Youtube that worked well for me; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9yY9Kk4bEA. Its a little crude compared to the eloquent techniques described on the British Car Forum, but I can get through it and it works well for me.
I couldnt resist a little MG accouterment, but didnt want the typical dash placement. I thought the clean heel board in the boot would be a fine area for my own private presentation.
A quality automotive vinyl was ordered over the internet from Great Lakes Fabrics, Inc. ( Allante AL-02 Black) http://www.glfi.com/vinylbook.htm, to refurbish the door cappings. I'll also use it to line the parcel shelf. My favorite sticky stuff, 3M Trim Adhesive should work well. I also have a can of general purpose contact cement as an option.
I want the rear to be as reliable as the front with uprated components. Moss offers these UK made hardened steel competition axel shafts with flanges retained by splines and nut instead of the stock taper. They are heat treated to 39-41 Rockwell hardness. These will never twist or snap. They were purchased form Jeff at Little British Car Company http://www.littlebritishcarco.com/
Seats were ordered from Moss . I've re-strapped, re-sprung, re-cushioned, and re-upholstered two sets of seats over the years and thought I would go for these professional commercial ones for a change of pace. They are superb.
A detail view of the seat lever. This color is with camera flash....it actually is pretty close to the 'in person' color.
I have always liked the toggle switches from the mid-1960's Spridgets. These NOS pieces appeared on eBay http://www.motors.ebay.com/ . One box had a shelf stock routing slip enclosed. Though they are not period correct for my car, I'll find a place for them on the radio console (which will be radioless). They are very versatile as 'dual' switches, and will be used for the back up fuel pump, for possible front fog lights, or whatever idea comes up in the future.
The decision was made to paint the wheel wells black. I think it will emphasize the presence of the Superlite wheels and bigger rubber , and add to the contrast from the Arctic white body color
Front end from the inside view. Its a clean machine.
Front wheel well. A little patch work visible
Rear wheel well.
For those of you professional body folks, I offer my apologies for insulting your sensibilities with my masking. The paper is packing paper from a shipment box of parts. For my purposes, it works well.
Supplies gathered and at the ready. The wheel wells were prepped with 320 grit light sanding in a back and forth cross pattern, and the more difficult to get at corners and edge angles were gone over with a scuff pad.
The first spray. No turning back now. For prolonged spraying, the hand held triggering device is a nice comfort item. It is available through Eastwood Automotive http://www.eastwood.com/, and I've seen them elsewhere at various stores and in catalogs.
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black (available in satin or gloss ) http://www.eastwood.com/ , sprays on very cleanly with no spatter, and accurate directional spray. It seems to have a high particle content, and discharges fully through the entire can volume. This paint layers very well. In my experience its everything the company claims it is. So far , so good!
The outdoors is a suitable paint booth for this type of painting. Its nice to have the fresh air on this warm autumn day.
MG Midget Well, I'm done. Final paint coat sprayed for a total of five, ( I know !, a little over the top).
In a few hours the tape and paper will carefully come off. ( Don't you just love the A-post lines on a Spridget?)
I've always liked the MG back side.
Wheel wells finished and masking removed. My son, home for the weekend from college is willing to help out. I'm happy with the results.
I like the 'Spridget in flight' look.
Rather snappy looking. Front wheel well.
Great contrast. The Extreme Chassis Black up close is like hot fudge on vanilla ice cream http://www.kraftfoods.com/images/recipe_images/TOBLERONE_Hot_Fudge_Sauce.jpg. Rear wheel well.
Forwrd view of rear wheel well. I'm getting eager to start on the hand brake mechanism and press in the longer wheel studs.
The decision was made not to spray the forward area of the inner fender to keep it looking as professional a job as possible. Thus, leaving it as from the painter. The splash panels will be placed soon.
Fuel tank. Painted with my usual recipe.
I always use a weight distributing piece of wood either front to back or side to side on the cross member piece when lifting the front end. There is visible evidence that one or more PO's in the past have used the sheet metal center as a jacking point. I've found for the MG's I much prefer the 6 ton jack stands and the 3 ton low profile floor jack to the lesser models.
Wheels back on, and back on the ground..............on to something else.
Plastic self adhesive clips for the wiring loom to metal connection. They came from the PO, I have not decided to use yet?
Trying to find a lettering stamping service. This is an aftermarket chassis number plate for Midgets up to 1969. These are readily available from the usual sellers. I like it better than the 1973 era plate that was original to my car....so.oooooooo, this is the one that goes in. I'll track down a stamping shop.
I do not have the chassis number, so I'll have the vehicle identification number stamped on this plate. The plate will be at this location. I'll need to web search some photos for the facing of the wording.
I've stamped ID plates in the past http://picasaweb.google.com/Minorsands/1974mgb#5222538621646819394, but the results were as rough as might be expected with this set up.
This line up pretty much accurately depicts the lettering line up of plates I've stamped prior.
A few vendors
The bottom dash panel support brackets, and the odometer reset trip screw bracket responded well to rust remoal and black trim paint. A few of these are seen in their 'before' state in photo 151.
Original handbood 1973
Original 1973 UK sales brochure page 1
page 2
page 3
page 4
page 5
page 6
page 7
page 8
page 9
page 10
page 11
page 12
I'm starting with the easy parts of the wiring loom. Originally I had the flasher unit placed behind this wall, which would place it behind the dash. I thought it would be more accessable in the engine bay should it ever require replacement. Additionally, the new loom layout has the flasher unit wiring coming off the wire bundle on this side of the cowl wall. The ground wire is ready to go. I'll scrape the paint off the metal first for good contact, then cover the screw edges with Anti-Seize or similar product. Notice the broken loom metal hold down straps. This is where I may use the plastic adhesive pieces shown prior, or I may screw in an appropriate size metal clip.
Fuse box is set up. And the wires to the heater motor at the standby.
The engine bay branch of the main loom on the left hand cabin side of the cowl wall was routed through after a rubber grommet was passed through the end. The spade connectors fit up to the after market washer fluid motor, (thankfully).
The end plug is ready for the wiper motor mating. The two wires coming off the back of the plug wireing have bullet connectors and colors that do not match the colors of the bullet connected wires seen coming from the brake light switch. I'll have to sort that out,
The five wire connector plug, [shown] , for the wiper motor, would not fit through the opening shown above, to get it from the main wiring loom in the dash area to the engine side of the cowl wall. Using masterful advice from DrE on British Car Forum, I took the end of a coat hanger, pounded it thin and flat on my vice surface, then filed it to an approximate 1mm blade, (shown above green arrow). It then fits into the end of the five wire connector plug to release a 'catch' that holds the spade ends in place. With all of the wires out, and after writing down their proper positions in the plug, I was able to feed the wire through the hole above, as well as the grommet, and reconnect.
There was no boot light switch loom in my parts boxes. I made one up and wrapped it in the blue plastic tape for continuity with the rest of the loom.
Wireing from the boot snaked through the passengers side body panels to the cabin floor. The red wire is the feed to the accessory fuel pump.
Body number ID plate cleaned and rivited as per a photograph taken by the PO in 1993 .
My first experience in the 90's with hood frames found them to be rust prone. I consider myself lucky with this one. It was restorable condition surface rust. It cleaned up well, and all the joints worked freely and correctly. The three restraining straps show a little age, but should last another 25 years or so.
Header rails can be a rusted unusable piece with their thin metal and head forward position facing the elements. I was lucky, surface rust only. It didnt affect the structural integrity. Wire wheeled, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, and Extreme Chassis Black http://www.eastwood.com/ should allow it a couple of decades of service.
Adding the readily available as original decals makes for a very satisfying refurbishment.
New buffer pads and screws. Header rail seal and retaining strip yet to be placed.
I bought this 10" fan in the 90's for another project and never mounted it. I'm not sure if I will need it with the Midge, I'll not mount it untill the car is on the road and see how it cools with the radiator and oil cooler. If I do mount it , one of the toggles would have good purpose. Then again, I dont know if it will fit in the engine bay!?
Fiberglass radio console.
Since I have no desire for a radio, (which, with the speaker occupies a very large amount of front console), I have the luxury of redesigning the console facing. I'll add a Smiths voltmeter http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=58160&SortOrder=1 [compare price for 360-975 http://www.lbcarco.com/] , 2 or 3 great looking toggle switches, the cigarette lighter (for nostalgia, and an electrical outlet source), and possibly the heater control knob. An MG radio blanking plate will most likely go over the radio spot.
One for the engine, one for the boot. I should test the original .
The 1973 steering column cowl on the right. And a later model cowl on the left. I'm deciding if there is any advantage in using the later model cowl with its low hanging underside.
This VG condition later model rack was given to me because several of the plastic end pieces (the spacers the screws go into at the end of the slats) were cracked or missing. I havn't decided if it will go on or not yet.
I used one of the good plastic end piece to make a few carboard molds, then filled them with J-B weld. I then filed and sanded them down to make a decent fit, the color pretty much matches the original pieces. The rotary tool ( a Craftsman, Dremmel clone), paid for itself that day.
Just waiting to be mounted. A lot will get done rapidly once the wiring loom is up and sorted.
Original North American 1973 sales brochure page 1
I'm starting on the wiring loom. I have bullet connectors and Dielectric Grease. What could be easier! It should be as simple as can be from here on out! (isn't that right?).
First up.....connect the rear loom to the main loom.
Two unused loom off shoots will have to be dealth with.
I will not be using the belt buckle switches, or the passenger seat switch. So I'll bundle their wiring components together for under carpet.
And here it is, ready to be placed under the carpet.
The PO left me several wiring loom plastic holders with back adhesive. Several of the original metal tabs were broken off. Very strong adhesion.
Another style of a wiring loom retaining piece. With the two visible broken metal loom retaining tabs absent, this is a very good option.
Time to bring up the steering lock and stalk pieces for a trial . Its been 1 1/2 years to get to this point, I like how they look!
I had enough wiring exercise for today, so I decided to test fit the floor carpeting. I've been debating on placing under carpet matting. The PO had given me a 5' roll. The carpet over the transmission tunnel is a little loose , they must have made allowance for placement of the insulation matting. So that answers it for me......I'll cut up some pieces.
The prior owner included this insulation matting with the sale.
The colors from the after market brake light switch do not match the colors of the loom wires, but being only two wires for circuit completion, it doesnt matter, other than for continuity of identification. (I'll just have to remember).
I placed this [ brake light switch relay ] . It was discussed in photo #209 http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Electrical/General/Brake_Light_Relay.pdfedit . The wiring from the aftermarket brake light switch did not match the wiring diagram, but after some consideration it was sorted out. The relay was attached just next to the pedal box with a self tapping screw near the box bottom over the foot well. The paint was sanded to bare metal for ground contact. The instructions with the relay were easy to follow.
Posted by: tinymg (24.176.110.) An idea I might consider: (MG Experience Spridget Forum), for crankcase breathing Part numbers are Moss 377-415 (fuel pump spacer) and 697-125 x 2 (gaskets); a brass 3/8 male NPT x 3/8 hose barb; and the existing fuel pump block-off plate with a hole drilled in it for the pipe fitting. I used the spacer to ensure that there was no protrusion by the threaded end of the hose barb past the interior surface of the block into the crankcase, since I wasn't sure how close the rotating machinery in there came to the wall. The hose is connected to a Jegs 547-605-375-01 mini catch can mounted to the interior fender wall. There are a couple of different mounting options for this, thanks to a PO I already had holes drilled in the fender wall so I used them. Just be sure the can is vertical enough so that it vents and drains properly, and that there are no loops in the hose.
Posted by: tinymg (24.176.110.---) Date: September 19, 2009 09:21AM An idea I might consider: (MG Experience Spridget Forum)
Getting ready to fit up the 3/4" front anti-sway bar from The Winners Circle http://spridget.com/. Anti-Seize thread lubricant will be applied at the appropriate time. The 4 captive nuts on the H-frame need to have their threads chased first. The two kits shown above have served me well so far. Photo #147 lists source and credits.
Right hand side view of anti-sway bar attached. End links are adjustable. (p.s. I'm not a racer, that adjustability is lost on me!).
A part of the original loom. Multiple gauge and switch lamps were powered by the one red/ white stripe blade connector lead above. I'll have to devise something similar.
The new aftermarket wiring loom was without many bullet connectors. Using the "quick but sure" soldering method http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9yY9Kk4bEA , I attached bullet nipples to the high beam and ignition indicator lamp wires. The work area is a cardboard box under the dash section, where the main loom is placed.
Additional wires were similarly readied, under dash. A carboard box with a shop towel served as the work bench. With these left hand side directional indicator lamp wires, since they needed blade ends attached, 5 inch extensions were added for ease of placement.
The door cockpit light switch had no attached wiring, so, a suitable length was made up with a blade connector for the swith on one end, and a bullet nipple for connector attachment to the purple/ white stripe wire on the opposite end.
A cascade was made up for the four gauge lamps, for both the red/ white stripe feed wire, and the black earth wire. After soldering, heat shrink material was placed.
The red/white stripe wire above, with the blade end, is designated for the 'panel lamp reostat switch'. It is the only red/white stripe wire comming off the main loom to service the dash. The wiring diagram also indicates the gauge lamps supplied by red/white stripe. As such, I added the pink plastic 3M 'quick connect' device seen above with the black wire and blue shrink wrap showing bullet nipple link that I can connect with the cascade piece. Fortunately the loom supplied an earth bullet connector higher up.
A great poster from Sprite-Midget Club http://www.sprite-midgetclub.org/
There is a great youtube video on MG steering wheel removal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwf2BDC5DMo that involves John Twist pulling on the wheel, while his assistant strikes the center bolt with a mallet. I didn't have a second person, so I bought this steering wheel removal tool from NAPA. The diameter of the tool cross bar didnt match the diameter of the wheel center screw holes. so, I bent one of the tool bolts in the vice. It worked very well. The wheel just eased itself out with every turn of the center counter force screw.
Test fitting of the steering column cowl. This one is from the later year Midgets. It has an enlarged underside with a blanking plate on each half, as compared to the 73' style.
I've stopped work on the dash and wiring for the time being. I have to fit up pipe and hose to the oil gauge before going any further. Over 1 year I've had these gauges and this just slipped my mind? A little work on interior matting pieces after first cut and trial placement. They will need to be trimmed for proper fitment. Utility scissors worked well, but not without 4 new blisters on my fingers.
Under carpet matting material has been cut up for placement. The transmission tunnel pieces need tailoring. I'll lay unglued the piece in the boot. Once the spare tire is down, the carpeting will not budge. The top piece of the rear assembly I'll attach with velcro. The floor pan pieces will not move when the seat rails are placed, so no glue there. The foot well and transmission tunnel pieces will be well glued. Once again 3M Super Trim Adhesive will be my choice.
Two pieces of matting material cut and trimmed, then glued with 3M Super Trim Adhesive spray cover the transmission tunnel. The foot wells and transmission tunnel use emptied one can of spray. The matting and carpet over the main floor pan will be sprayed just a little in the middle, as it will be well held down by the seat rails. I did place the carpet over the tranny tunnel as a fitment test. It stayed placed with normal carpet-matting resistance. the radio console and arm rest will add to non-movement.
Stainless steel threshold plates were attached with clear silicone adhesive. I've used silicone adhesive in the past, it has a very strong bond coefficient. Waxoyl will be sprayed in the sills through the access hole in the middle of the door opening, in the A-posts through the access hole for the door cockpit lamp switch wiring, to the bottom of the door frames, and to the rear wheel well arch through a boot opening. The pump can is placed 3/4 deep in a bucket of hot water to liquify the jam consistency Waxoyl. This allows a good flow of spray. From prior experience a little goes a very long way, and I learned from prior experience, plenty of paper and cardboard under the vehicle as a drip mat****its very runny and messy before it settles. A very authoritative DIY restoration guide recommends mixing the Waxoyl with 50% fresh engine oil, as it will creep into existing rust much better. Castrol 20-50 spots the garage floor.......... reminders of MG's past.
While waiting for parts for the dash gauges, I decided to fit up the 3-point seat belt kit. Wouldnt you know the mounting holes at the bottom of the inner sills, at the front of the rear wheel arch were rusted useless. The other 4 captive nuts were perfect fortunately. I've never rethreaded screw holes before, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E but necessity dictates.
The engine bay plate came today. It was stamped by Clarke Spares and Restorations http://clarkespares.com/ from Doylestown, Pennsylvania, (This was another lead from British Car Forum). They offer engraved style or embossed. My other original body plates are embossed, so I stayed with that style. As can be seen, a tremendous job was done. Here I'm riviting it to the left hand inner wheel arch valance location. I coated the rivit and complete underside of the aluminum plate with Waxoyl prior to placement.
3 point retractable seat belts by Beam's http://www.mossmotors.com/ are temporarily placed after rethreading the lower inner sill mounting points with a Helicoil 7/16" replacement piece http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E . They seem to be a quality set up. The Helicoil repair is a unique thing for a first timer like myself! The pink straw was to blow out the powdered mud from the wheel arch mounts after dislodging the ancient mud-wasp nests. The transmission tunnel carpeting is not trimmed or tucked in place in this photo.
I was amazed at how well the seat rail pieces cleaned up with the wire wheel on the hand drill motor. They will easily be cleaned to look as new. I just need to use the rotary tool for a few hard to get areas and they will be done. No spray finish is required. A little white lithium grease in the slide grooves when the time comes should work real well. Compare these now, to as they were in photo 209.
Moss Europe door panel trim with carpet bottom half style.
Fiberglass radio console idea. Top row from left to right; Smiths voltmeter, heater control knob ( if the turns and bends allow the cable to work ), three 1960's era toggle switches, rocker style hazard switch. Bottom row left to right; hazard red light indicator, MG radio blanking plate, cigarette lighter.
Circular openings were started with a 1/16 drill bit pilot hole, followed by 2-3 larger sizes increasing the diameter to keep things as controlled as possible. The larger holes were finished with a 'hole saw' of the required size. To cut the rectangular hole for the hazard rocker switch I used the rotary tool with a thin grinding disc for a 'rough' cut, then a file for final edging and fitting. I find using a rotary tool at 30,000 rpm's requires a delicate hand.
One of the screw mounts had snapped off while trying to take the nut off, on the heater control knob facing. I found a screw with the same thread count, rotary tooled off the head, 'carved' a few scratch marks at the base of the back piece, and applied a little J-B Weld. It anchored itself well in the scratch marks and the screw thread. It is an unstressed mount, so the J-B Weld should do the job well.
Here is the transformed radio console. I'll be the first to admit its a little 'busy' looking. But, in my opinion, the console is unsightly to begin with, so a change up is just a rose by a different color. The pieces are not secured, just placed for visualization. The heater cable mechanism has enough room to manuever in the back, and a quick check of the heater cable shows it will funtion through a sharp turn up and out the top. Of course it will need to be sized to effective purpose.
That fiberglass almost looks like vinyl. The radio blanking plate conveys a more solid presence without the stainless steel suround piece.
For 1973 Midget. 1=water temp and oil pressure cables. 2=heater control cable. 3=choke cable. 4=wiper motor wiring loom. 5=speedometer cable. 6=bolt hole for black earth battery lead. 7=washer fluid tubing.
I've read on a thread about the difficulty of opening the bonnet if the release cable malfunctions by loosening at the end. I noticed what I believe to be an unused opening at the top of the drivers footwell. A back-up hood release cable fits nicely out of the way. We will see how it sorts out with the future hook up.
Finally ready to connect some wiring and gauge cables through the cowl wall. A few forum inquiries have left me with the opinion that if I ever have to replace this wiring harness again, it will be from a verifyable British Heritage Supplier, (Leacey MG England is reported to be one of those suppliers of accurate manufacture).
With the kind help of the forums, I have the cowl wall openings accounted for.
Another dilemma. The four wires to the right are from the new ignition/starter steering column unit. There should be a white/green stripe wire to mate with the one coming from the new main loom ( which is seen wrapped in the blue wiring loom tape). Also, there is no Brown/white stripe wire (which comes off the new ignition/starter steering column unit) on the main loom. After looking through Haynes, Bently and Leyland wireing diagrams, it seems there is no Brown/white stripe wire at all to be found! Since it is one of the 'four' coming from the ignition/starter unit in the diagrams, I've deduced it is the right wire, but the wrong color for the White/green stripe match-up. It will be connected; (WG to NW). The Pink/purple stripe wire seen coming from the main loom is not to be found in three manuals or the color Prospero poster as well. It is a true mystery to me. So, for now it hangs.
This is a view showing the Flosser Nautilus high decible air horn mounted securely by a single bolt from the horn housing, through a drilled hole in the back wall, and 'inside' the grill radiator recess area, with plenty of clearance. The oil cooler is to the left, the inside of the front grill is on the right. The view is facing to the left side of the car. The horn came with a relay switch that will be hooked up soon, (once I decipher the instructions). Below the horn are seen two screw holes for the former horn bracket.
The oil pressure gauge hose, fitted to the oil pressure gauge pipe, was too small diameter to fit the smallest available hose clamps. So I took both pieces to an auto parts store for sizing, and obtained and cut a piece of 5/16 hose to use as a collar, and these great Swedish made ABA 15 hose clamps fit like a glove. (I do not recall where I obtained these clamps).
The fuzzy door strips in the window glass opening proved to be a major challenge. Many attempts to mount them with the clips failed. The Spridget forum on MG Experience had a nice thread by 'Techspecial', where he explained using 3M VHB double sided tape on the back side of the strips for contact, and then successfully attaching the clips. I obtained double sided 3M super strength trim tape at a local NAPA, and applied it full length to the fuzzy strip back side. The rubber strips on the opposite side of the glass opening, with slightly different shaped clips were easily attached with the fabricated 'clip holder' tool, ( a cut and bent brake lock tab washer), shown above. The screw driver was used as a T-handle for leverage. One of the spring clips is seen properly placed in the tool, ready for application.
After the 3M super strength trim tape was applied to the fuzzy strip, a couple inches of the covering plastic was pulled back to 'stick' one end of the strip to the inside of the door glass opening. The strip was then held in place while the remainder of the backing was easily pulled off. I reached underneath to push the strip against the metal, and used the clip holding tool to push it gently from the top side. The 3M tape does not cause the fuzzy strip to protrude out because the back is 'dished' a bit for the edges, ( a fortuitous design).
This view shows the metal spring clip 'loaded' in the purpose made tool. The flat side of the clip, with the two end 'claws' goes on the metal side, and the angled side of the clip, with the inward angled two teeth, goes against the fuzzy strip.
The clip tool is placed in the glass opening slot at the end of the door, then it is slid toward the middle, where the clip is 'loaded' in place. It takes a strong controlled pull, and light side to side rocking force of pull, to bring the clip up and seated against the metal. The fuzzy strip stays in place with the tape. The clip tool has to be periodically reshaped due to bending with the force.
A good light helps. Much bending down, laying on the ground, looking from the top, and side holes is required to ensure the clip starts with the flat side behind the metal edge first, then it can be pulled up with the angle side sliding over the fuzzy strip. A few times I used a long flat edge screw driver to push the clips fully home.
This view is inside the door, looking up to the top glass opening. The door glass is seen. The foil looking cut piece is Dynamat on the inner door wall. The clip tool is hanging from above down. And a clip can be seen fully seated attached to the metal edge just above the tool. The fuzzy strip is there also, but difficult to see.
This view shows the other style clips ( at the upper top left corner) for the rubber edge piece, on the opposite side of the glass opening.
A different view looking bottom-up showing a fuzzy strip clip as attached to the metal edge, (flat side of the clip), the fuzzy strip is fully attached as well, just on the other side of the metal. and the tool hanging down, leaning against the door glass.
The result: a very solidly placed door window glass rubber strip on the outer side of the door glass opening, and a very solidly placed (strong 3M double sided tape, and 6 spring clips per door side) fuzzy strip on the inner side of the door glass opening.
Fuzzy and rubber strip against the door glass
MG factory, Abingdon. circa 1970's. from the internet.
Spridget assembly line; circa 1961. From MGB Driver; www.namgbr.org
Late model Midgets moving down the line. From MGB Driver www.namgbr.org
Midgets going down the assembly line. Morris Travellers going down the line just to the left. Internet photo mgnuts.com
The last manufactured MG Midget: December 7, 1979. From MGB Driver www.namgbr.org
I was hoping to have the engine and transmission dropped in before winter, but this is as far as I got.
My mechanic is still trying to get one of his bays open. It seems some Jaguar has been occupying it all summer for piecemeal front end work. If he can clear it out before the heavy snow and ice hits then we get started on some major work.
Frontline front brake set up, and new rear axels are planned. I'm hoping to get it done over the winter.
Always a sad day when you tuck the Midget in for the winter. But, it is an unusually warm day today, 45 degrees F (7 degrees C), so I have to take advantage of it and get it stored, before it gets too cold.
Maybe I'll get lucky and the mechanic will call in a week or two, ready to do some work.
This pretty much tells the story......cover over the Midge, and snow thrower at the ready :-(
A piece of Automotive vinyl ( see photo 240 ) for a covering to the floor of the parcel tray.
Glued in place.
Weather not conducive for me to ddo Midge work. I'll have to wait for warmer spring weather to get started again.
This is the wire access opening for the courtesy light switch, ( door activated ). This hole is on the outer sides of the foot well, behind interior panels, and directly opening into the A-post. Through this opening, the spray wand or tubing can be placed for Waxoyl infusion into the A-post. There is just a bit of fiddling required to navigate the spray wand around the courtesy switch housing built into the A-pillar. If you stick your finger in the hole, you can assess the exact layout.
Finally winter snow is gone. Taking a look outside the garage.
Tomorrow will be flat bedded to the mechanics for engine and tranny fitment. While there, also put on Frontline front bake kit, new rear axels, possibly tapered front wheel bearings, add the longer wheel studs, and place the new Superlite wheels and Kumho tires.
cleaned up a bit
I'm going to recover the door capping pieces with the same vinyl as on the parcel shelf.
The heat gun works exceedingly well in softening the old glue for old vinyl removal.
No end pieces torn or ripped. Its very important to keep the old piece intact for pattern making and orientation to the aluminum piece. Proper glue is one that will not act as a solvent to the automotive grade vinyl. I have three spray cans on the shelf: 3M trim adhesive, Duro All-Purpose Spray Adhesive, and Loctite High Performance Spray Adhesive. They list numerous porous and nonporous applications.
The original vinyl on the door cappings is easily removed with a little heat from a heat gun. Very little to clean up. I was careful to not tear the ends of the original vinyl to help with the new gluing, as I have no prior 'door cap recovering ' experience, and any help on how to proceed , fold, cut, etc. is welcome. I started by cutting an approximate size piece of the new automotive vinyl.
The new vinyl cut to approximate working size, has the capping position lightly marked for placement after initial glue is applied. I used a spray glue specifically labled for automotive materials use. I did a sample test piece the night before to insure no bleed through or dissolving solvent effect. The glue was sprayed to the capping and carefully to the material per directions over 95% of the capping, leaving the ends unglued. This I let dry over night.
The next day I masked the portion of the capping I didnt want glue contacting, and sprayed the overflap as seen above. I held it down and kept pressing for adhesion for about an hour till I was satisfied it was holding. The next morning, the wider edge, (show above), took well. The thinner edge did not adhere, ( i trimmed the edge above for fitment before gluing)
The next day I used an all purpose adhesive, labled for metal, fabric, etc. I decided to use it for the edge above and the ends because of quick drying properties. The replacement vinyl is thicker than the original, which makes it a bit more tricky to work with. I used the metal spare above to press down the contacts for ten minutes or so and it held fine. Prior I had also pretested this adhesive for 'stick' and suitability for the material.
Everytime I think I'm pretty good with my hands, I come across a project such as this to remind me otherwise! I worked the end many ways, many times, and 'snipped' excess material carefully, after satisfied with positioning. Remembering the carpenters mantra, " measure twice, cut once".
The 'working' side of the door capping looks a fright, but the ends hold well, and stay put. The glue used in the MG factory must have been superb for this function, as well as the thinner weight vinyl allowing easier manipulation of the ends.
End result; the 'pretty' side of the piece.
Internet photo. Love those wheels.
Aftermarket arm rest.
Original half tonneau in outstanding shape. Found on ebay.
Original outstanding condition tonneau found on ebay. Probably never used.
Automotive cloth hood waiting to be fitted. I've done one before. Its straightforward to read about the installation, its not so straightforward to get the optimal results.
Bits and pieces waiting for placement. It really is organized in its arrangement, it just takes a special understanding to know the method, ( OK I confess, its a lot of pecking and hunting! )
Polished stainless steel rear soft top retainer bar.
Fall 2010 update. A little lull in the progress. Mechanic overloaded with 'regular' jobs.
Engine and transmission in
The Midge is packin' now!
Rear wheels on, with the hardened axle, wheel spacers, bigger tires, longer lugs, and those great Australian Superlite wheels.
New hand brake fittings
Its been a long time coming to get something in the transmission tunnel.
Oil cooler lines placed ( Moss kit )
Frontline front brake kit with Spitfire 9" rotors, and modified MGB caliper
along with the Frontline brake kit, are the longer lugs and spacers shown, which allows for larger 'offset' wheels and 'bigger' tires.
Motor ancillaries added.
Another 'hold up'! The accelerator cable opening has a guide mount that went missing. Its not in any of the usual catalogs. Will have to source it from the breakers.
Close up of the 'lonely opening'.
This is the passengers side mount fixture. I am avoiding utilizing it at this time, but may have to in the future if I cannot locate a replacement for the drivers side.
Unfortunately the slanted, chromed, rocker cover does not fit the new head. I may ebay it in the not too distant future?
The radiator and shrowd were a real bugger to get placed. I like the water outlet elbow.
Tight fit, love the brass
Pretty SU's
After 3 1/2 years, its time for the battery!
Automec fuel and brake line kits were used. A fine product! In the usual 'big' catalogs and UK sources.
Found a replacement for the accelerator cable through engine bay guide piece. Will see what it takes to press it in.
I came across this dash on ebay. Seller appraised it as a 9 on a 0-10 scale. I bought it to check it out. It is in fact a 9. It had one small tear on the drivers side top of the dash. I bought a dash top replacement from Moss. Thats it, silicone adhesive applied. I like it a lot. Will put gauges on and give it careful consideration.
The top replacement is super. It fits like a glove. The replacement piece edges are barely visible. Once fitted up with electronics will then make final decision about which dash to install.
Fitting up gauges, switches, and indicator lights to dash-board.
An original dash with a new replacement top piece and instruments and electrics placed. I like it.
Original dash with replacement vinyl top.
MG Midget Now that I have decided to use an original dash, the heater control knob has returned to its rightful location. That leaves a large hole in the center console. I am covering the hole with a nice enamel style raised MG badge. A bit too much 'MG' logo for the space, but it adds a nice visual.
This is an available adapter kit from Gerards Garage for the Datsun 210 transmission, http://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/5speedKit.htm. Using the Datsun clutch as a kit component has its appeal. I learned about this kit after completing my conversion.
This image is taken from a thread on clutch plates from MGExperience.net, offered by Gerard of Gerards Garage mentioned earlier. It shows the difference in material quality from a BMC disc on the right as compared to the Datsun disc on the left. Notice the width of the clutch disc material.
Again, Datsun item on left, BMC on right. I add this to the album as this serves as my reference for future considerations. With photo credits and product comparison going to Gerard of Gerards Garage as noted prior.
1/43 scale model (Solido) 1969
Not a 73' ad as the other two, but I like the association
definately not a 73' ad, but the bonnet ornamentation is intriguing
MG Midget engine. Not mine, but certainly an inspiration!
Classic Car Portraits on any British car; http://www.classiccarportraits.co.uk/pages/MGMidget6280.htm
