Although there are several ways to get this look on the inside of a garment, this is my favorite method. Begin by choosing a fabric for your seam finish. It could be contrast or matching. Lightweight fabric will give you the best results. Some choices are lining fabric, silk organza, or lightweight cotton. Other fabrics may be used, but they will give you a bulkier finish. *Click on the arrow above to go to the next step
1. Count how many strips you will need by counting the seam allowances. You will need two strips for each s.a., one for the hem and one for each facing. Lay your fabric on the bias and cut as many 1-1/2” strips as you will need.
2. Sew your seam with a 5/8” seam allowance and press open.
3. Turn your garment so that only one seam allowance is extended. Lay one of your finishing strips face down (right sides together) on the opened seam allowance, matching raw edges.
4. Sew the finishing strip to the seam allowance using the edge of your presser foot as a guide. I like to have about 3/8” seams.
5. Press the finishing strip away from the seam allowance as shown.
6. Turn the finishing strip under so that it encloses the raw edge of the seam allowance. Stitch in the ditch to catch the underside of the finishing strip.
7. I use my left hand to guide the fabric and my right hand to turn the edge under as I sew. This is much faster than using pins and just as effective in my opinion.
8. Trim close to the stitching on the underside of the seam allowance removing excess of the finishing strip.
9. Press open your seam allowance again, and you should have a beautiful Hong Kong finish!