Coquille Saint Jaques rôtie en coquille à la truffe -- I think scallops are one of the most incredible matches for truffle. I am not sure that I agree with the messy approach to the dish, though I understand that the concept of just shaving truffle at the last minute on the hot scallop. in any case, those scallops are quite good, very wel cooked, so the magic operates. But you have to re-rorganise the dish to best enjoy it, sorting your truffle "leaves" so you can have some with each bite. A better first course, in my humble opinion, than the scrambled eggs of the night before.
Classic winter Régalade too: petit paté de lièvre chaud -- I demanded truffle with it and I think it was a good call. The standard dish is already very exciting. The petit pâté is cooked on order, and the hare inside is just perfect, with the funny play of texture you should have in that kind of pie. The hare is flavourful but not über-gamey. The sauce is red-wine based, a bordelaise
Adding the truffle (9 more euros) makes it even more sublime. The salad on the side is a great treat.
In a way, such a perfect dish emphasises the limits of the bistronomique concept: it's wonderful to have top notch food at hard discount prices, but having to seat on your neighbour lap, to free the table for the next guest, to pay attention to every move because there just is not enough place on your table in the end is a bit damaging to enjoying that level of art (the one of the cook, the one of the farmer too). It reminds me of a fight I once had with an old friend who was making fun of the demand for silence in operas and concerts -- it was even arguing that operas are better enjoyed with a glass of wine and some nice company, on cocktail conditions. I disagree.
Riz au lait. No comment. They bring it in a pot which they maybe think is big, and you help yourself. The pot is not big.
They also bring a smal bowl of caramel, which you may pour yourself on the self-helped riz au lait
Perfect texture/cooking of the scrambled eggs, simply onctuous. The truffle is sliced thinly, so the heat of the eggs is enough to exhaust its taste. The little croutons de pain (fried bred dices) bring a wonderful crisp on top, the chive some taste dynamic. Textbook, as usual. The circle is made of a meat juice based vinaigrette, also bringing some dynamic, energy, acidity.
Foie gras rôti, pour deux (+15eur on the 34eur menu)
This is intense, hearty, a less gentle cooking than the same dish at l'Ami Jean -- come to think of it, it is pretty exemplar of the difference between the two places cookwise, CAJ more refined, Régalade more generous and festive. Both are very refined and festive (and uncomfortable), though.
Cassolette de morilles à la crème et au jus de viande
It's as good as it looks, possibly better
Poitrine de cochon caramélisée
Pigeon entier dessossé, farci au foie gras; fèves, petits pois et asperges verts. Sooooo good. And easy to eat. Save the legs and wings...
Daurade dorée sur la peau, fenouil confit, jus de volaille -- perfect cooking again.
Soufflé au Grand Marnier
The madeleines served with the coffee are still not good.