Establish end pices and hoops against end posts. These are solid, to be cat proof, but could be just a cross bar.
Place support posts at 10 foot intervals. Run a support wire from end post to end post.
Install the rest of the hoops at 3 foot intervals above the support wire.
The hoops are sections of 1“ plastic irrigation line, nailed to the bed sides through pre-drilled holes.
Attach the end pieces to the end posts.
Tie the end hoops to the end pieces.
Tie in support lines for the plastic, one at the peak, and at least two on each side of the peak, 8 to 10 inches apart. Use a single bow to tie them in, as you will eventually want to take them off.
The result Should look something like this. Note that the lines are wrapped around each hoop so that they run along the top edge of the hoops.
Stretch the plastic over the hoops, and loosely tie it in place with cross lines.
Tie a marble, nut, or? into the plastic about half way down the sides on the ends. Leave a long tag on each, to tie across the end piece to anchor the plastic in place.
If your end post doesn't stick above the hoop, you could tie in a third marble at top center, and make it look neater than this.
Now you put on your cross lines, sandwiching your plastic between cross lines and support lines.
Drive fence staples about half way in, spaced about a foot apart, centered between the hoops. Tie a washer on the end of the crossline and thread it through the staple.
Use a single bow to tie the cross line on the other end, as you may want to release it while the hoophouse is in use, and will want to remove it at the end of the season.
The cross lines should be pulled just snug, not tight. I have used two cross lines per section, but one might do.
The end result should look something like this. This will stand up to 30 mph winds, with no problems.
When you want access, or to ventilate, slide the plastic up under itself. This prevents water from getting trapped in the folds if it rains.
If your plants are centered in the hoophouse, you don't have to rush to close up if it starts to rain.
Not elegant, but it kept the rain off of the tomatoes. The bottom 3' to 4' could be replaced with an open framework of 1x2 or 2x2, and built on the same way the small hoophouses are made.
It would probably have been better to have two cross pieces to secure the end hoops to. You can see the support lines under the plastic. They keep the plastic from flapping against the plants, or bagging with collected water if it rains.
I wanted to be able to re-use the plastic on one of the small hoophouses in the spring, so the end just got tied into a sloppy pigtail to secure the plastic at the end. Check out the Pink Novicok at the end of the row.
Although it isn't really visible, there is a top wire going from end post to end post under the hoops. Each hoop is tied to the top wire, to prevent the whole works from becoming a kite when the evening winds start up.
Instead of running crosslines, I tied in a crafters half marble at each hoop, and tied the tag from that to the hoop. I also put in a cross bar at the middle post, and secured the hoop to it.
The hoops are just slipped over pegs in the ground in this version. They should be nailed or otherwise attached to the pegs, as I found out one breezy evening. The canopy didn't get airborn, but a couple of hoops did lift off of the pegs.
Having a uniform framework to work from would also straighten out the peak line.
This was thrown up in an afternoon, using 12' pieces of plastic irrigation pipe, and attaching everything to the posts that were already in place. Everything came down in an hour at the end of the season, so I could get at the soil to work it without ducking.
