Original closet (3' x 5') had two small shelves and two closet rods. Practically zero storage.
The problem in this closet is that the cabinet must be built inside the closet. Here is the base ready to go.
The base is levelled using small blocks that extend down to make contact with the uneven floor. The result is a perfectly level base.
Next step is to glue the base to the bottom of the cabinet.
Attaching base to bottom shelf with pocket hole screws
Base ready to go
Before commiting to glue, we will dry fit everything together in the closet.
Dry fitting the top. Note the 3/4" strips that give a solid stop to sides, back, etc.
Dry fitting the back
Dry fitting the top of the cabinet.
Starting to glue things together. Note splice into existing electrical for power outlet in top cabinet.
Bottom glued together.
Closer detail of bottom after gluing. Remember all splice boxes must be accessible!
Adding shelf pins to the sides of the top cabinet.
Adding pocket holes to the back of the top-cabinet.
Gluing top cabinet in place. Everything is held together with pocket hole screws.
Nice level base yields a nice plumb cabinet front.
The cabinet maker checking his work.
After building and installing the face frame.
I was able to build the bottom face frame in the shop. But I had to attach the bottom and top in the closet before attaching to cabinet.
After filling all the pocket holes.
More detail after filling the pocket holes.
Lining up the drawer fronts with toothpicks to get proper spacing.
Detail of how the toothpicks are used to get the proper spacing.
With hardware attached, and toothpicks in place, I'm ready to attach drawer fronts.
When guests leave, closet rods are stowed in a holder in the corner of the closet -- up high where the grandkids can't reach them.
The cabinet in use.
Full extension cedar drawers with Blum drawer guides
Closet rods may be installed when guests arrive.
Cabinet front after completion.
