at the Cochise Stronghold East trailhead
lower Stronghold Canyon East
approach road
Mule deer (seen here) seem to favor the grassland plains of southeastern Arizona - the "seas" - while the smaller coeus whitetail inhabit the mountains and canyons ("islands").
Historic homestead, now owned by the Forest Service, located near the equestrian trailhead for Cochise Stronghold. This spur trail adds a little over a mile to a thru trip of the Dragoons, is scenic, and doesn't see much use.
first views along the Cochise Stronghold Trail
ephemeral creek in Stronghold Canyon East
the views open up near Stronghold Divide
half moon reflected in Half Moon Tank
Half Moon Tank, deep enough at the dam to appear reliable, although a pair of local horse riders indicated otherwise
a granite wonderland
Rockfellow Dome (center) from upper Stronghold Canyon East
Stronghold Divide, with mileage from the eastern trailhead
Rockfellow Dome
distant Rincon Mountains, farther along on the Sky Islands Traverse
The trail was in fine shape overall, and doesn't appear to see all that much use, given the area's repute and relatively easy access.
West Stronghold is particularly dramatic with its large rock faces and steep terrain
Sweet but all too short, the Cochise Stronghold Trail soon ended at the western trailhead. An hour's quiet roadwalk next ensued.
Beargrass and thornscrub dominate the upper Chihuahuan desert life zone here
Torrey yucca
I left the forest road and headed cross-country to the east of Whitehouse Ruin, which appeared to be on or adjacent to the private lands of Horse Ranch, seen here. The goal was a quiet shortcut to Council Rocks.
pictographs at Council Rocks
rock art and sheltering alcoves
well-worn metate, or grinding stone
dance of the six-legged lizard men
additional metates, or simple weathering of the rock, I wasn't sure
another pictograph panel located on the other side of the same rock
Council Rocks info (click magnifying glass for full-size)
I noodled around in a side canyon near Council Rocks, which turned out to be impassable, though certainly scenic.
the standard stack of truck-sized Stronghold granite boulders
An easier way eventually presented itself, along the range's easternmost flank. A combination of use trails and 2-tracks led onward to Slavin Gulch.
closed road now serving as foot trail in Slavin Gulch
view west from entrance to Slavin Gulch
Slavin Gulch would have made for an interesting side trip if I'd had more time. A cascading creek in the lower part of the canyon is reportedly dependable.
Slavin Gulch trailhead
back to the dirt roads, with the Dragoons fading eastward
Well-worn stock paths proved surprisingly useful alongside sandy Smith Wash, my chosen connector route between the Dragoons and the San Pedro River valley
a sea of creosote scrub west of Hwy 80 in the San Pedro Valley, distant snow-clad Huachuca Mountains on the horizon, still several days away on foot
gated and padlocked boundary of the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, (foot traffic welcome) one of only two such areas in the country (the other being the nearby Gila Box)
final mile to the river and the end of water concerns
The San Pedro's riparian corridor was just beginning to green up in late March, increasingly prominent and inviting on the near horizon as I went.
A brief bushwhack through mesquite bosque led to the San Pedro's flood plain, with a mature cottonwood gallery on display.
first view of the San Pedro River's living waters
Hiking cross-country along the river's grassy banks proved quick and easy in this part of the conservation area, and offered many glimpses of vermillion flycatchers, so abundant throughout the area as they were.
Evidence of recent flooding was occasionally apparent, but any flood debris was quite minimal and easily circumvented
The river was seldom more than ankle-deep, although the bottom was often mucky.
The San Pedro doesn't always flow, except where constricted by topography and geology, but sufficient winter rains kept the occasional crossings pleasantly wet.
Peek-a-boo views of the snow-clad Huachucas were always close at hand
old gaging station gondola still looms above the river strand
ruins of 18th century Presidio Santa Cruz de Terrenate, ultimately doomed by Apache raids
Terrenate is the best preserved example of a 1700's era Spanish presidio in present day U.S.
Terranate, along with the nearby remains of Contention, are the first of several interesting historical attractions - Native, Spanish colonial, and American pioneer - that present themselves to the southbound San Pedro traveler
Old railroad grades are frequently encountered above the flood plain. This one is used by a portion of the San Pedro Trail, a 35 mile long-distance trail that plies the length of the conservation area. On my thru-tour of the valley I opted to use portions of this trail, in combination with cross-country travel alongside the river, based on convenience and aesthetics.
The San Pedro Trail is better established, and is located on dirt tread, approaching Fairbank.
native sacaton grassland is often the dominant vegetation type just beyond the riparian corridor
official San Pedro Trail marker
Grand Central Mill ruins. This was a pioneer-era stamp mill, where silver ore was processed during the late 1800's. The mill operated 24 hours a day and the incessant hammering noise was said to be dreadful.
distant Whetstone Mountains beyond river corridor, one range that didn't quite fit into the Sky Islands Traverse, logistically
Preserved remains of Fairbank, a once-bustling mining town. An informal visitor's center is located inside the old schoolhouse here, with a docent on duty.
South of Fairbank it was back to the river corridor for more easy cross-country sloshing
Historic Boquillas Ranch within the San Pedro RNCA. The San Pedro Trail reaches this spot via dirt road closed to public vehicle use, an easy enough approach on foot, but nobody was around this fine Sunday and the scene was truly that of a human landscape preserved in time.
Migrant traffic from south of the border reportedly uses the NCA's railroad grades most often, but I saw surprisingly little evidence of their passage, here or elsewhere, and heard nothing of them at night while camped along the river. Even the Border Patrol remained low profile, on the ground as in the sky.
San Pedro Trail via dirt roadwalk, well above the riparian zone, made for quick, if harsh and dry, transit south of Boquillas Ranch
river corridor and hills of Charleston area, as seen from one of several petroglyph sites in the area
petroglyphs
A rare section of singletrack trail - built for the San Pedro Trail's own purposes - threads the hill country around Charleston, another pioneer ghost town along the river
View south from old highway bridge near Charleston. The San Pedro Trail follows vehicle roads for a few miles here, avoiding a private inholding upstream (south). I opted instead to return to the river's flood plain for more x-c travel.
Along some sections of the river the cottonwoods were barely rousing from their winter's slumber.
Snow-clad Miller Peak in the Huachucas, with whitetail deer at mid-scene.
Beyond the private inholding along Escapule Road, the San Pedro Trail returns to dirt (some road, some trail) and the solitude envelops the traveler once more. Hard to believe bustling Sierra Vista is just a few miles away, its outskirts brushing up against the conservation area's boundary, just a few miles wide throughout.
The existence of Sierra Vista (and of Tombstone and Bisbee) only became apparent in the form of bustling vehicle traffic at the occasional highway crossings, as here at San Pedro House environs, site of the conservation area's headquarters.
The river becomes increasingly entrenched the farther upstream toward Mexico, its current slowing, and its water looking ever less potable, even with treatment. Downstream, except in times of high water, one can seek out where the intermittent river surfaces in places for the best drinking water odds. Although I did drink from the river throughout the NCA with no ill effects, next time I'd fill up for the final southbound leg at the San Pedro House visitor's center, the only developed water source nearby.
tame mallard clearly accustomed to humans in the popular San Pedro House area (most "wild" mallards will fly off at the first hint of intrusion)
The San Pedro House area has a network of several miles of hiking trails alongside a portion of the river rich in biodiversity and surrounded by a mature cottonwood-willow gallery.
Green Kingfisher Pond, which formed at the site of an old quarry near the river as the water table rose, is a good spot for birders to add the pond's namesake species to their list.
Miller backcountry camp along the San Pedro Trail. This is the only officially designated camping area with the NCA, with tent pads, privy, food locker, and firepit, in a nicely secluded spot that offers an enveloping sort of quiet. Even commercial jet noise is virtually nonexistent this close to the Mexican border.
South of San Pedro House, the San Pedro Trail - recently routed onto singletrack - remains just outside the riparian zone, which itself tended to be choked with debris and far less suitable for x-c travel than along the northern reaches of the NCA
The river corridor is bounded by former agricultural fields in this topographically-unchallenging section. Old implements of farming - a mechanical thresher in this case - lay half-buried in the sacaton-dotted plain.
all smiles touring the San Pedro Valley
The San Pedro Trail runs beneath a highway bridge at Hereford Road. A few locals enjoying a Bud Light-sponsored car camping expedition called after me, "Hurry up - they're coming for you!" The curious truth was that I was a southbounder, and yet I hadn't crossed paths with the border patrol nor their travelers-of-choice even once.
full moon over the river
San Jose Peak in Mexico, with snowpack in late March 2010, looming beyond the San Pedro's springtime greenery
last camp among the cottonwoods
With the exception of a 2-mile stretch near the community of Palominas, the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area runs continuously from near St David in the north to the Mexican border. The San Pedro Trail doesn't bridge the gap, temporarily ending at paved Waters Road southbound. I bid farewell to the river corridor here, 5 miles as the raven flies from old Mexico, turning west at last to reach the snow-clad Huachuca Mountains. now just 8 miles - but still a world - away.
