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Pants, before adding pockets

making pocket - two squares sewn together on 3 sides

turn pocket inside out

place pocket between two pieces, sandwiched between right sides

here you see the pocket sandwiched

make sure you sew it right so that you can put your hand threw it

Ike Jacket prototype - first steps. its a little loose but otherwise a good base

made it a bit more fitted and made a sleeve

side shot of new sleeve

This is my collar FAIL... this first attempt did not work.

My second try at the collar didn't quite work

A behind shot at the second collar attempt. It was all bunched in the back. doesn't look very good.

The 3rd collar attempt. This one worked better

Here we're testing to see how covered the collar will be by the cape. The cape you see is from my Magus costume. The collar looks a little short so I'll make the final version taller

Mike trying out my Magus cape with the Ike jacket prototype

The first sleeve attempt. It's too tight making it too hard to roll up.

I let out the seems as far as I could and we could roll it up but it's still too tight. I'll make the final larger

My first attempt at the jacket flap. Works for me but its too short. Will make the final longer no problem.

Mike's cape is done! Only took a couple hours

A back shot of the lovely cape. Too bad there's a spec on the lense

Mike looks excited about his new cape!

Here's the sword I found at the party store

Here's the buckle I bought for the belt. It's a standard buckle you can get at your fabric store

Here I'm marking my fabric for 4 strips of 1 5/8th inches. But I'm actually only going to cut two strips of 3 1/4 inches. this way i have markings for the middle of the strip

Here you can see the giant strip which is 6.5 inches wide. the solid line is my mid line marking. the dotted line is where i'll cut this strip into two to create two 3 1/4 strips.

This is “interfacing” which I'll cut into strips and iron on to the fabric to make it stiffer and more durrable.

The strip is cut to 1 5/8ths inches wide and I lined up my center line from this piece with the center line on my fabric. Next, just iron it on using steam.

Once the intefacing is ironed on, I fold the material and pin in place to sew.

Now I have one strip that's been sewn. Then with our other strip we cut, do the same, then we place the wrong sides together and stitch

After pulling apart my prototype and making new pattern pieces from it, I lay my pieces down on the fabric. the fabric is folded length wise with the right sides together. So you are seeing the WRONG side right now. Each piece as it is layed out will cut 2 pieces since the fabric is folded. The tail piece and sleave will need to be traced onto the fabric twice because we need a total of 4 pieces

I've traced my patterns onto my fabric and now i'm ready to cut

Another shot at the traced pieces

This was a glove that I made for my Magus costume way back when. It sort of worked but the thumb hole wasn't ideal.

Here is a fleace glove I got as a gift one year turned inside out so i could study how it was made. I used this to aid in creating my pattern for Ike's gloves

I've taken a piece of muslin folded in half and cut my base of the glove. I've sewn the main edge together. the hole you see will be where the thumb sleeve is attached

Here you can see it on my hand to get an idea for how this will work. right now the finger holes are not really right yet. we'll need to sew another small piece to these to make the proper finger holes

This photo didn't come out too good! This is the piece for the thumb sleeve. Right now its made to completely cover the thumb. but once i sew it to the main piece, i can cut it to where I want the piece to end on my thumb joint

Here's the prototype glove on my hand with the thumb hole (after cutting it to desired length)

Back shot of the glove

Here's the first collar piece with one layer of interfacing

I added a total of four layers of interfacing. Two across the whole of each piece and then two more layers extra on the edges.

Pin the two collar pieces wrong sides together to stitch.

Create the trim. Cut a strip that is 3 inches wide with a line in the middle

Fold in the edges and pin to sew it.

Here's the trim with one side sewn in. do the other side too

Here's the wrong side and right side of the trim with both edges sewn in

Fold the trim over the edge of the collar so its even on both sides of the collar and pin in place

Here you can see both sides of the collar and that the trim is even on both sides.

Then stitch in place

on the edge cut the excess trim

on a new strip, cut like so

pin onto collar

cut a slit so the trim can be on both sides when it reaches the turn in the collar shape

Now we start on the Tails of the coat. sew top edge where it will connect to the coat with right sides together

flip them over with wrong sides together

put pieces inside one another. see that we have 4 layers

lift up one of the four layers

pin the middle two layers together to stitch them (with right sides together)

The other two edges in the four layers need to be sewn together as well. Here's the piece after the stitching is done. Now the two tail sections are one piece.

Fold the two pieces together. i needed to do some trimming and want it to be even on both pieces

Here I'm cutting the slit in the fabric

Our tail piece with the slit cut in the middle

pin it down to sew

need more trim. this is our bigger trim which is 8 inches wide folded in which will turn out to be about 2 inches visible trim on each side

here we're placing the trim on the bottom edge of the tails

here it is sewn in place

We've also added trim on the outer edges of our tail just as we did for the collar.

Trim for slit on the tails

cut a slit in the trim

place it in the crotch of the tails

and fold in place.

pin in place to sew.

do the other side too

here's our crotch of the tails. doesn't look too good with those unfinished edges. but we'll fix that.

create a small strip

fold edges and stitch into place to cover up that ugly edge. This is the best I could come up with. If you have a better suggestion for dealing with these tricky corners, please tell me!

and done on the other side and sewn together.

Now we're doing the front of the jacket. I've sewn in the two edges where the zipper will connect. i've used a “separating zipper”

here we've pinned the zipper in place. on the wrong side.

This is a zipper foot. Most of them look similar. But this is the foot you want to use on your sewing machine when sewing zippers

Here I'm sewing it in place with my machine using the zipper foot

Here's how our zipper looks on the right side. looks pretty nice so far.

then sew the other half of the zipper on the other piece. here's our two finished pieces

a close up of our zipper when zipped together

here's what the back side looks like.

Here's me in the middle of making the front flap. There are two thin strips of fabric with interfacing and trim on the inner pieces. on the left i've sewn a larger piece to the left thinner strip..

I've put interfacing on the larger piece as well where I've sewn in my velcro.

Here's the opposite side where you can see the velcro

Now I've sewn the left flap down. you can see the seam slightly to the left of the yellow trim. we've sewn down the right strip as well. Now this is all one piece. The edge on the far right is not sewn. This is because this will be sewn in between two other pieces

Here you can see the other side.

add trim at the top ad left edge

here's what the other side looks like

Here's the finished jacket. Please ignore the messy room in the background. my house turns into a disaster area in October.

Susie Sahim
photos

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