Leaving the comforts of home on April 16th
On the Train from Madrid to Pamplona
Pamplona town hall
April 18, enjoying a rest day in Pamplona
Harry displays the cleanest his clothes will be for 6 weeks
Gwen across from our Pamplona hotel wearing her new fashion for the next 6 weeks..the back pack!
Adding a Camino badge to back pack
The route we will now walk for 32 days plus I rest day in Leon
Catching the 6:00 p.m. bus to Roncesvalles from Pamplona on April 18.
Our first Albergue (Hostel) experience..Roncesvalles
Outside the Roncesvalles Albergue.
Going into Iglesia de Santa Maria at Roncesvalles for the Pilgrim Mass & Blessing. There is David from Ireland who we have yet to meet wearing long pants !
Pilgrims in the church after the service
Having a dinner of bread, cheese & Spanish red water in the basement of the albergue
This girl is excited to be having a sleepover in this albergue with 100+ others !
You can tell this is only the first night in an albergue, even this guy is smiling.
6:30 a.m., April 19, and we begin our Camino trek
OK, we're going in the right direction & it is a long way!
790 kms, maybe a rental car would be wise!
Sun has risen, time for our first coffee of the day!
First morning on the camino means big smiles !
Beautiful country side but I'm not used to this pack yet and its getting really warm.
Enroute to Espinal
The trail is getting tougher especially after the rain from previous week
Oh Yeah! This trail is rugged!
On our bikes we looked forward to down hills, what fools!
Coming down into a small village in a valley to be followed by a steep climb back out. We will quickly learn this is a common Camino occurrence.
Enjoying the very green counrty side enroute to Zubiri
Concrete path into another valley village enroute to Zubiri
Taking a break but its still our first day on the Camino
We are now wondering which hills we see in the distance we will be climbing in the near future.
One of many artistic 'ruins' we will pass on the Camino
A very interesting looking farm structure on the route
Medieval bridge into Zubiri. We should have stopped here for night but didn't!
Gwen in front of albergue in Larrasoana where we did spend the night. That smile will disappear when it is discovered this town has no stores, bars or resturants!
Lovely main street of Larrasoana unspoiled by any enterprise that might satisfy the needs of we pilgrims!
Walking a km back into town along the busy highway at 9:45 p.m. to the albergue from the only place we could find something to eat. At least Gwen is bringing back left overs for breakfast.
Gwen waves good bye to Larrasoana as we start our second day, April 20.
Bridge out of Larrasoana
Bridge into Trinidad de Arre (outskirts of Pamplona)
Some boots are just not ready to tackle the Camino!
Coming into Pamplona
Crossing the rio Arga with the walls of Pamplona in the background
Done walking for the day. Our room in the Roncal Albergue in Cizur Menor
Our bunks in the albergue
Patio of the Roncal family Albergue
April 21: ready for another day on the trail
Outside the albergue in Cizur Menor. A halo is beginning to develop on my head!
Enroute out of Cizur Menor
Enroute to Zariquiegui
Church of Saint Andrew in Zariquiegui
Approaching a wind farm
Adrian our new Australian friend adds his artistic touch to the scene at Alto del Perdon
Alto del Perdon and sculpture of medieval pilgrims
Short detour to the Church of Santa Maria de Eunate
Bill & Adrian coming into Eunate
The 12th Century church itself
From another angle
Note the church's alabaster windows
Yeah, there must be pilgrims at the church.
Looking back enroute to Puente la Reina
Taking a beer break in Obanos with Adrian, Sam and Bill (father & son from Canada), before our final trek of the day into Puente la Reina.
Puente la Reina
View from the bridge
Puente la Reina from other side of bridge
Outside the modern albergue at Puente la Reina
Puente la Reina. Going back into town for essentials
Puente la Reina. We got the essentials!
April 22, enroute to Estella
Another day of warm weather & challenging climbs enroute to Estella
Enroute to Estella
Approaching Cirauqui
Cirauqui
Entering the town of Cirauqui
Narrow well paved trail thru Cirauqui
Climbing thru Cirauqui
Remains of a Roman road outside Cirauqui
Remains of Roman bridge
Uphill enroute to Estella
Vineyards along the trail
Villatuerta
Follow the yellow arrows
Coming into Estella
Estella
YES! That is free red wine on tap!
Oh Gwen, there is free spring water at the tap on the right if you would prefer that!
"How good is this !"
Three well lubricated pilgrims wander into Monasterio de Irache (Estella-Ayegui)
Inside the Monasterio
Within the cloister of the Monasterio.
Gwen, Harry & the free wine !
Looking out from the cloister
Another view of the Monasterio
April 23 - the idyll of the Camino was shattered when a French Canadian pilgrim's wallet and passport were stolen in the morning. David B. also lost his camera. The police were called and our bags were searched.
On the path to Los Arcos. Gwen in front of the Fuente de los Moros (fountain of the Moors).
A refreshing mid-morning break in Villamajor de Monjardin
Near Cruce enroute to Los Arcos
Chruch door in Los Arcos
Sam and Gwen in Los Arcos
Bill, Adrian, Harry and Sam having dinner in Los Arcos
Early start for Logrono on April 24.
Coming into Torres del Rio
Camino leads us under a road
Going thru Nuestra Senora del Poyo
Passing a vineyard of very mature plants
Church in Viana
Pilgrim rendevous in Viana. Roger and Gwen consult with two Irish women who had their packs sent ahead. We didn't see them again on the Camino.
Inside Viana church
Another refreshing break, just outside Logrono, after a hot day of walking.
Dinner in Logrono: David, Adrian, Bernadette and Gwen. Australian brothers Terry and Trevor in background at left.
Adrian sports his new straw hat that will be stolen by a cute dog before long.
David with a beard (Logrono).
April 25: leaving Logrono - another early start.
Breakfast with Bernadette (another great new Irish friend) at Plantano de la Grajera, a picnic area and reservoir just beyond Logrono.
Adrian shows us that 1 boot & 1 shoe can sometimes add up to a pair.
Believe it or not, we passed by the Bull which stood at least 30 metres high.
Another church
Harry helps a potter.
Note the rocky soil!
Will Harry more closely resemble this pilgrim on day 32?
An amazing field of pilgrim rock statues
Our "Canadian" addition to the field of rock statues.
The artists and their creation.
A stork
Arriving in Najera, with the groceries and the "essentials".
Crossing the Rio Najerilla to find our albergue.
A refreshing break at the end of the day with David and Bernadette. David was the only pilgrim on the Camino with a satin dressing gown!
April 26 - our first rain day.
"No really, we expected this its part of the Camino experience!"
On this day the rain will rule
Inspiring?
Bernadette bought a golf ball for her husband at this Spanish Golf Club, while Gwen collapsed.
Gwen and Adrian enjoying the walk through the mud.
Santo Domingo de Calzada: we reward ourselves after a day in the rain with a stay in a 3 star hotel and a bath in a tub!
Our hotel in Santo Domingo
April 27, leaving Santo Domingo in the early morning rain. Destination: Belorado.
Cathedral in Santo Domingo. In honour of famous legend, a cock and a hen are maintained in the church.
Another view of the cathedral in Santo Domingo.
We are now leaving the La Rioja area and entering the Castilla y Leon that includes 9 provinces & is the largest region of Spain
Trying to walk in the rain without getting my arms wet - didn't work.
Some times the trail is not exactly as the pilgrims of old experienced it.
A long and winding road.
Lunch in Viloria de la Rioja with a friendly dog.
Lingering in Viloria de la Rioja before rejoining the trail that runs parallel to the busy highway for 10 km into Belorado
Entering Belorado
Belorado
Relaxing while Gwen makes a fashion statement in a square in Belorado wearing Harry's old long johns.
On the road again, April 28. Ermita Virgen de la Pena - a hermitage set in the hills outside Tosantos
Taking a morning break
Love the old village structures
I may be smiling, but I have lost my voice.
9th century ruins of Monasterio de San Felices de Oca
Church in Villafranca de Montes de Oca
Climbing out of Villafranca.
Looking back at Villafranca (see the church spire?)
The long & winding road, again.
Yes, we go down, then up this road, and our walk still won't be over for the day.
Monumento de los Caidos - a monument to hundreds of massacered Republican soldiers in the Spanish Civil War.
Gwen's artsy photo of heather.
Getting close to San Juan de Ortega
Inside the church at San Juan de Ortega
Mold in "donation only" albergue in San Juan.
Outside San Juan's albergue. Even after a few beers, we decided we couldn't drink enough to tolerate staying there and high-tailed it for Ages, 3.5 km away.
Goodbye San Juan
Amazing what a few beers can do for someone's attitude.
Ages, at last.
Our delightful accommodations. Note the locker (we only had this once, but it's a good idea).
Outside the albergue in Ages.
Day 11, April 29, heading for Burgos. Harry stands with old friend, Homo Antecessor, near Ages. There is a UNESCO world heritage site of pre-historic caves near here.
Always a welcome sign to confirm you are not lost!
A misty morning start
Yes, we walked on this path too.
Our highest point for the day (1,070 m).
It's Sunday, this is a church but there will be no mass here today.
What do pilgrims dream of?
Cooling off my feet.
Our lunchtime companion
Arriving in Burgos
Statue of El Cid, Burgos
It's a very chilly Sunday afternoon in Burgos
Plaza Major, Burgos
Plaza Fernando, Burgos
Burgos Cathedral
Harry in front of a Cathedral door.
A cup of liquid chocolate (!) and churros to dip into the chocolate.
Arco St. Maria, Burgos
A view of plane trees
Arco St. Maria
In our hostel in Burgos, basic but central location
April 30, leaving Burgos in early morning mist.
Another stork
Burgos
Now it's really raining again.
This is getting too familiar!
Oh well, the country side is getting very green with this rain
Climbing out of Burgos
You could smile
Coffee/beer break with David, Adrian and a familiar German couple at 10:00AM.
Still in Rabe de las Calzados but now eating something healthy outside the bar.
Taking a rest.
Yes! We are loving the moment
The muddy path, worn down by farmers' tractors.
May 1, getting ready to leave our albergue in Hontanas with rain threatening again. The last time we saw Bernadette.
Walking in the rain again. The road goes through the ruins of the Convento de San Anton.
Bitter winds, walking up to Castrojeriz.
It's 10:30 a.m. and we've booked into this beautiful hotel in Castrojeriz. Time to get warm and clean.
Castrojeriz has been around for 1000 years.
Lunch in the bar in Castrojeriz
Our hotel in Castrojeriz
Drying out our boots
The castle ruins in Castrojeriz
Castrojeriz
Inside Santo Domingo Church, Castrojeriz
Santo Domingo church
Inside our hotel, going for dinner.
Dining room in our hotel. Other German pilgrims were also taking a break from the albergues on a rainy day
May 2, leaving Castrojeriz. We are going to climb this 100m hill.
Climbing
The reward, a view of Castrojeriz
Ermita de San Nicolas, a basic hostel (no mod cons). We just had a look inside.
Puente de Itero over the rio Pisuerga and entering the Provincia de Palencia.
Entering another province within the Leon region
Still on track
The first livestock we've seen in ages.
Careful where you step!
Not sure what the donkey's job is.
A stop for lunch.
Formista Canal locks (not working anymore)
Another view of the locks at Formista
Church in Formista
Formista church
St. James, with bandana
Relaxing in the courtyard of albergue in Formista
Storks
Inside church in Formista
May 3. The senda: the path is marked by bollards and runs beside a paved road. Not too tranquil.
Still a ways to go
Leaving Formista. A stand of poplar trees
Adrian, a pilgrim and Harry in Revenga de Campos.
Hermitage of Our Lady of the River on the road into Villalcazar de Sirga.
A place to store your wine.
Inside the church, Santa Maria la Blanca, Villalcazar de Sirga . This is a tableau of St. James' life (missing St. James).
The altar in Santa Maria la Blanca
On the plaza in front of Santa Maria with David.
Outside Santa Maria, Villalcazar de Sirga
With another pilgrim in Villalcazar de Sirga
Camino symbol on the wall of the albergue office in Carrion de los Condes
Adrian, practising his swing. Albergue in Carrion de los Condes
David's turn
Carrion de los Condes
Outside the albergue in Carrion de los Condes: the Monasterio de Santa Clara, run by nuns.
Our Spanish friend, Javier
David pulling off his beard to entertain Max and Roger.
May 4, leaving the monastery. On the way to Terradillos de los Templarios
12th century church, St. Mary of the Way
Leaving Carrion de los Condes, San Zoilo, a 16th century monastery that has been converted to a Parador hotel
Princess, the donkey used by an American woman to carry her pack to and from Santiago.
A bunch of pilgrims stopping for coffee/beer.
The Usual Suspects at the first bar on the trail today
David massages Max's sore ankle.
Backpacks
May 5th, leaving Terradillos de los Templarios. A delightful breakfast bar on the trail (by donation).
"How good is this?"
More caves for your wine. Note the antennae.
Leaving Palencia & entering the Province of Leon
Hermitage of Our Lady of the Bridge built on 12th century foundations. Situated beside the bridge in next picture
Bridge crossing rio Valderaduey near Sahagun
Another pilgrim statue, this one outside the albergue in Sahgun.
The Arco de San Benito in Sahagun
Leaving Sahagun. The path runs beside a busy highway.
Here comes a car.
We met this Austrian couple in the albergue in Ages. We saw them last in Ponferrada.
Gerry and Roger from Ireland doing their laundry in El Burgo Raneros.
This Canadian pilgrim will not be getting a pedicure for quite a while
The albergue in El Burgo Raneros. The building is made of mud and straw.
Sunday morning, May 6. Waiting for the bar to open.
Pilgrm statue in Mansilla de las Mulas.
The other side of the statue.
Outside the best albergue on the trail, Villarente.
This is how the funeral director gets to the local bar in Villarente.
The patio in the albergue in Villarente.
May 7, heading into Leon.
Taking our lives in our hands by running across a busy divided highway.
Casa de Botines, Leon, designed by Gaudi
Harry and Mr. Gaudi.
Leon
Chance meeting after several days of our new English pilgrim friend David in Leon
Leon Cathedral
Three amigos
A modern pilgrim statue
A refreshing break in Leon.
Plaza Regia, Leon
Inside the Leon Cathedral
Inside the cloisters, Leon Cathedral
Cloisters, Leon Cathedral
Detail of a door, Cathedral
Detail of ceiling of cloisters, Cathedral
San Isidoro Church, Leon
San Isodoro Church, Leon
Keyhole, Bishop's Palace, Leon
Walking beside the Rio Bernesa on May 8, our only rest day.
Puente de rio Bernesga, Leon
Plaza San Marcos and former monastery. This now a 4 star hotel.
A wider view
A statue of a pilgrm taking a rest, in Plaza San Marcos, Leon.
Cloisters in San Marcos, Leon
Cloisters, San Marco
The bar in San Marco hotel
Happy pilgrms in San Marco hotel bar
Going out for dinner from our 4 star hotel, Alfonso V, Leon.
Hotel Alfonso V, Leon
May 9, on the road to Vilar de Mazarife. More caves for your wine.
Baby storks
May 10. The medieval bridge at Hospital de Orbigo with 20 arches.
Hospital de Orbigo
Beginning of a long hot afternoon on an uneven path to Astorga
A rest spot on the trail with wierd pilgrim art efforts.
Still walking
Roman footbridge, Puente de la Molderia, outside Astorga.
Our hotel in Astorga (too tired & hot to face the albergue routine tonight)
Palacio Espicopal, Astorga. Designed by Gaudi.
Astorga Cathedral
Plaza Major, Astorga. Hard to see the figures that ring the bell. Man and woman dressed in traditional Maragato costume strike the bell on the hour.
May 11, leaving Astorga in the morning.
The trail out of Astorga. A long day ahead.
In this area old buildings don't seem to get destroyed but in time get restored.
Cowboy Bar in El Ganso.
Crucifixs woven into a fence.
Still smiling
On the trail to Rabanal de Camino
La Cruz de Ferro
More offerings at La Cruz de Ferro
Still walking to Acebo.
Having reached Manjarin we are very tired but this albergue is just too basic. We will walk another 7 km to Acebo and hope for better.
Fantastic views encouage us to keep walking towards Acebo.
A typicial pilgrim!
The heather, altitude 1,515m
Harry, almost finished his 38.5 km walk from Astorga to Acebo. He does look like an old man today !!
Final descent into Acebo at about 6:00 pm hoping there will be room for us in the albergue.
The albergue in Acebo is crowded but happily there was room for all of us
Now we can drink that wine.
An old friend turns up. Sylvain a policeman from Montreal.
There's a long story behind the hole in that shirt.
Dinner with Sylvain, old and new friends, Acebo.
May 12, breakfast is prepared outside the Acebo albergue.
Heading to Molinaseca hoping to get our first coffee of the day
Riego de Ambros. No restaurants open here.
Today the trail starts out narrow & steep
Continues with a dangerous descent
Follow the dirt path, that is our route.
A glimpse of Molinaseca and perhaps a chance of coffee in the near future
Careful
Molinaseca
We did not stay here (outside Ponferrada) but we did meet some Canadian women who did on a rainy night.
Puente Mascaron, entering Ponferrada
Our hotel in Ponferrada
Museum exhibit on the Camino, entitled "Yo Camino", Ponferrada
Castillo de los Templarios, Ponferrada
Castillo de los Templarios
Mural on church as we leave Ponferrado, May 13
Enroute to Villafranca del Bierzo
I loved the fields of poppies.
Not really sure about the accuracy of the milage: 195 to Santiago!
More vineyards
Church of Santiago, Villafranca del Bierzo
Villafranca del Bierzo
Villafranca
In the morning we will take the path to the right, the recommended route out of Villafranca, and climb 330 m for the fun of it.
Another early start. Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo on May 14.
Looking back at Villafranca
Still climbing out of Villafranca
On the way to Trabadelo
Now it's raining.
Another rugged climb on a challenging day
Going through a farm village on the way to O'Cebreiro.
Climbing to O'Cebreiro
Completing the last major climb into O'Cebreiro in the rain
Gwen stares down a herd of cattle as she takes control of the trail into O'Cebreiro
Nearing O'Cebreiro
A rewarding vista (altitude approx 1,300 m)
Entering Galicia, the last province on our journey.
Finally O'Cebreiro, a charming, popular mountain top village.
The accomodation in O'Cebreiro was in temporary portables. There was no charge and we received what we paid for, as the washrooms were terrible.
May 15, leaving O'Cebreiro.
May 15, on the way to Triacastela
This day the trail takes us thru many picturesque little farming villages
A scenic spot on enroute to Tricastela
Travelling thru beautiful forested areas enroute to Tricastela
May 15 - on the way to Samos
Benedictine monestary in Samos.
Samos
Together with friends in Sarria.
Sarria
May 17, on the road again. Destination: Portomarin.
May 17 and 100 km to go.
Coming into Portomarin
Having a beer on the patio in our hotel in Portomarin.
Our private balcony, Portomarin. The simple life is not for us tonight !
View of the reservoir in Portomarin from our balcony
With friends on our balcony, Portomarin.
Early morning, May 18. Crossing the river in Portomarin to rejoin the trail.
A grainery passed enroute to Palas de Rei
May 19th: Follow the shells to today's destination Arzua
En route to Arzua
Ponte Velha takes us into the old village of Furelos
The village of Furelos enroute to Arzua
May 19, two more days to go.
Forests of eucalptus trees Enroute to Arzua
Very old rocks have carried many pilgrims over this stream.
Pilgrims beware!
Getting closer to Arzua
Pilgrim humour (the sign was altered to make it a girl)
May 20. Enroute to Arca do Pino. Tomorrow we will reach Santiago
A fixer upper opportunity enroute to Arca do Pino
Gwen enroute to Arca do Pino can now do the Camino with her eyes closed.
Memorial to pilgrm who died one day before reaching Santiago. This is our 31st day of walking - May 20.
Another view of the memorial
En route to Arca do Pino
May 21: on the outskirts of Santiago!
Mount Joy Mon Xoi enroute to Santiago
We have done it !
At the pilgrim Mass, May 21 in the Cathedral in Santiago.
Our backpacks in the Cathedral.
Santiago Cathedral
Santiago
Plaza de la Quntana, "Holy Door", Santiago Cathedral
The Peurta Santa, "Holy Door" from the inside of the Cathedral.
Tomb of Canon Diego de Castilla in the St. Bartholomew Chapel, Santiago Cathedral
Portico de la Gloria, Santiago Cathedral
Column of Jesse, Santiago Cathedral
The Clock Tower, Santiago Cathedral
Prazo Obradorio
Hotel Reyes Catolicos, 5 star Parador hotel.
Western facade, Santiago Cathedral
Champagne celebration with David (no beard), Adrian and Heike. Thanks Adrian!
Celebrating our 35th anniversary with a final dinner with our Camino friends.
Gotcha David!
Enjoying the morning exploring the parks of Santiago before we catch our train to Madrid
Santo Domingo de Bonval, Santiago
No more albergues for us. Our hotel in Santiago
A happy pilgrim in front of her hotel
Enjoying the sun on the grounds of our hotel
Catching the train for the 8 hour trip to Madrid
Camino memento in our patio
