Looks like I'm in need of an alignment.
First thing is to remove the 7/16" nuts that hold the control panel in place.
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Looks like someone let the control panel swing open on it's own, or over tightened the control panel bolts.
Now we can get to work on tearing down the yoke. You need to remove the 4 bolts holding the cover in place.
In most cases you will need a 3/32 Hex head security bit. They have a hole in the middle to account for the nipple in the middle of the hex head bolt.
Now that the cover is removed, we can see the guts. This one has a heat shrink tube added to the right side cabling.
Next using a 7/64" Allen wrench remove the 4 bolts holding the grip covers in place.
Carefully remove the cover, the springs should stay in place.
De-solder and remove switches. Be sure to mark which set of wires goes to the right, and left handles.
Next de-solder the pitch pot.
Then de-solder the yaw pot.
The ground clip will just slide off.
All the wires need to be pulled from the yaw shaft.
With a 9/64" Allen wrench remove the hex head bolt holding the spring pin in place.
A bit of wear on the pin from the springs.
Remove the 7/64" bolt from the 60 tooth pitch gear.
Pull the C-clip from both ends of the pitch shaft.
Remove the 7/64" bolts from both grips.
The pitch shaft slides right out.
Remove the bearings. These will pretty tight, and will require a medium tap with the end of a screwdriver, or hammer.
Loosen/remove the 7/64" set screw from the 14 tooth gear, and remove the 1/2" nut from the pitch 5k pot.
Here's the problem I had with mine. A broken pitch gear.
The Yaw shaft has 3 7/64 bolts holding it to the Yaw section of the yoke. Remove and the Yaw section comes free.
Note the orientation of the plastic spacer.
I believe those rubber bump stops have seen better days.
Remove the 7/64 bolts holding the 60, and 28 tooth gears for the Yaw
Remove the C-clip holding the Yaw shaft in place.
With a 5/16" wrench on either end, unbolt the anchor pin halves.
Slide an Allen wrench in one of the shaft holes to aid in the Anchor pin removal.
Slide the spring over the Anchor pin.
Now the sections will be loose and the Anchor pin will pull straight up.
Remove the Yaw shaft.
Next remove the rubber bump stops with a 3/8" wrench.
These new ones look like NOS they are so good.
Replace the bump stops.
The new shaft is a perfect replacement.
New torsion springs.
New Bushings. I wonder if they didn't just find a box of NOS parts. These look fantastic.
When placing the new bearings in place, use a large socket, or wood block. Don't hammer on the surface of the bearing.
They must be inserted until flush.
A little grease will ensure proper operation for years to come.
Line up the springs, and insert the Yaw shaft.
That's a quality reproduction part there.
Insert the new anchor pin, and rotate the shaft to hook the other spring.
Just a bit more grease on the springs to keep them from binding, or grabbing.
Finally add the c-clip, and clean up any excess grease.
Put on the new 60 tooth gear, and 5k Pot. With a mutlimeter, set the 5k pot in the center.
This is too loose. The mounting hole for the pot has room for adjustment to get the gear mesh right. You want a smooth feeling movement.
This is about right, rotate the shaft and check for binding. Don't apply grease to the gears.
For the Pitch bearings, use a large socket, with an extension to tap into place.
Again make sure they are flush.
Now place your springs, and slide the shaft into the 60 tooth gear, and springs. Also place the 5k Pitch pot, and get. Note the hole for the gear.
A dab of grease on the bearings, and shaft.
Replace the c-clips on both sides of the shaft.
The new parts are great.
Now slide your spring pin in place, and replace the bolt.
Screw the 60 tooth gear in place. Use a drop of Locktite to keep things where they should be.
Using a Multimeter set the 5k pot in the center, mesh the gears.
Replace the Yaw shaft screws connecting the Pitch section, and Yaw sections.
The new thumb buttons are made out of aluminum.
The new style switches have longer leads making them easier to solder.
You will need to run a wire from the Pitch side to pull the wires through. If you try to push them they get caught on the anchor pin.
Screw in your switches, and solder the wires to the correct leads. You did remember to mark left and right?
Add triggers, and springs.
Solder the wires to the Pitch Pot, and place your zip ties.
Solder the Yaw pot, and replace the ground clip.
Re-install the Yoke in the Control panel.
Plug the molex connector back up.
The CPO Gnomes came by and installed a new CPO while I was rebuilding the Yoke.
You may need to make adjustments on your gear meshing once you pull up the Self test screen. No adjustments needed here. Be sure to check your switches too. Now bolt the Control panel down, and put the Yoke cover in place, and go play.
