July 13, 2006 Happy Hikers hiked the new Upper Winner Creek Trail to Berry Pass. We ate lunch at the falls, slightly off the trail, on the way to the pass.
July 13, 2006
July 13, 2006 We were disappointed that we could not hike down the other side of the pass to the Twentymile River. The Holms could not find a boat willing to meet us and take us to the Seward Highway.
July 13, 2006 So Pat Kauffman led the way back across the snow field to Alyeska. On the way we were nearly knocked off our feet by a clap of thunder and flash of lightning. How odd to cross the snow field and then experience thunder and lightning.
In February Forest Ranger Scott Taylor told us about True North Expeditions, a non-profit group that guides a hike and pack raft trip over this territory. TNX advertises the trip as a 2-3 day adventure for experienced hikers and pack rafters.
Twentymile Glacier at the head of Twentymile Creek
I am not sure I explained we were experienced HIKERS only. We did not want to carry pack rafts PLUS TENTS & SLEEPING BAGS, so we asked for a 1 day trip. TNX said it would be long but possible and would require a mandatory pack raft lesson on Campbell Creek.
TNX introduced the Happy Hikers to pack rafts on Campbell Creek. We paddled from Campbell Creek Park on Lake Otis to the Peanut Farm.
TNX secured a permit for 13 Happy Hikers and 3 guides for August 30, 2007. We met at 5am on August 30th at Carrs Huffman and drove in two vans to the Alyeska Prince parking lot. We organized our gear while one van was prepositioned at the Twentymile River Boat Ramp on the Seward Highway.
The 13 slots filled quickly but two weeks before the trip half had canceled for a variety of reasons. 3 of Bjarne's friends were eager to join us.
GUIDES: MIKE, DANNY (red shirt) , SHAWN (not in photo)
ROBIN HOLM, BJARNE HOLM, JOAN DIAMOND, BONNIE SWANSON, CAROL SHERIDAN, SHELLEY LIPMAN, SUE TOYMIL, ELSENA HORTON, PAT KAUFFMAN, DONNA BASINGER, ERIC MCCALLUM, KEN HINCHEY, MIKE JENS,
Bjarne Holm and guide Danny Crow
Canceled: Lynette Philips, Jackie Whitlock, Craig Kauffman, Bonnie Godfred, May Doppeled, Ellen Cordes
Ken Hinchey
Shawn takes the high road.
What a tough bunch of hikers you are! While I was whining about my sore feet going up to Berry Pass, the Happy Hikers were doing what you do so well.....hiking happily!! Once the trip started down to the river, I agree things took a turn for the worse. It wasn't the worst bushwack I've ever been on, but it was in the top 10. Too bad we all didn't smarten up and take the paddle blades off the shafts and put them in our packs, which would have lessened the interferences with the willows. Mike Jens
Alpine lake at the Pass
Lunch at the Pass
Robin and Bjarne Holm
Michael Crotteau gives Eric McCallum a quick obligatory lesson.
Eric McCallum on the gentle part of the downhill.
We were pleasantly surprised with the trail improvements since last year. "Accessible Alpine" was the name of Craig Medred's article in the Daily News July 29th.
Danny Crow
Joan teaches Eric a skill he always wanted to learn.
But the climb down to the river was steep and interminable. It reminded me of the first part of Mt. Marathon in reverse. We hung onto roots and branches. Donna Basinger
Shawn
Pat and I were not happy to see the rush to get into the river. We were worn out from the struggle down the 'cliff'. Donna Basinger
On a 2 or 3 day trip this would be a perfect place to set up a campsite.
The Guides knew how FAR we were from the Seward Highway so they got us in the rafts quickly.
Sean putting air into his raft.
Although the river trip did not turn out well for some of the lesser skilled paddlers, I was impressed with the willpower of your crew. I'm glad everyone got out OK, in spite of the cold, cuts and bruises. What a bunch of troopers you are. In retrospect, True North should have recognized the lack of paddling skills at the Campbell Creek practice sessions and would have been wise to discourage some folks from going. Had I known the technicality of the West Fork water, I would have recommended that myself. Thanks for asking us to join the Happy Hikers adventure. You may see me show up on future events (probably ones that don't involve rafts, I assume)...........Mike Jens
I was soaked after the Campbell Creek Practice (without falling into the water) so I wore my rain suit and winter weight poly pro long underwear. Donna Basinger
There were sweepers and strainers and fallen logs all over the West Fork of the Twentymile River. In our practice we were warned that the Campbell Creek is forgiving but the Twentymile is not! The force of the current is so strong that your raft will tip if you hit something. Donna Basinger
I was the first to slide into a sweeper. They were right. The Twentymile is not forgiving. I flipped and lost my raft and paddle in the blink of an eye. The current pulled me under the pile of debris....When I got my head above the water I just wanted to grab a branch so I wouldn't go under again. I grabbed branches but the force of the current tore me away. I think Michael finally grabbed my life jacket and I was able to stand in a shallow area. At that point I realized Shelley had gone under and was bleeding and hypothermic. Donna Basinger
I looked at the water and thought "that is way faster than our practice on Campbell Creek" and took off. But around the next turn was this yellow empty boat slammed vertically in the trees in the direction I did not want to go. It so freaked me out that I couldn't think fast enough to paddle away from it and then I bammed into the boat, flipped and got sucked up under the whole mess of tree branches, etc. I honestly thought I was going to die because with the life jacket on I kept hitting the branches above me. So I told God I didn't want to die yet, please save me. Elsena Horton
I grabbed limbs and pushed down with all my strength and was catapulted into the center of the stream which was shallow and not swift. I sat there stunned noting that my left shoe was missing, as well as my glasses, hat, raft, paddles. That is when I saw Shelly go flying by like a jet-propelled mermaid. That further freaked me out and I decided to just stay put, sitting in the middle of the river. Elsena Horton
I never did see Donna and wondered later if it was her boat I slammed into. Elsena Horton
I think that I found religion yesterday! I know that I said it before but the Happy Hikers, regardless of hike, are the best sports in any condition that I have ever met. I will never forget this hike/paddle! But without the extra men, I am not sure that we could have made it. Joan Diamond
Craig Medred writes "For those with a raft in their pack and a desire to push on, however, new adventures await, though you need to know something about paddling. The put-in for the float back to the highway is the small, fast-flowing, splashy and turbid West Fork Twentymile. "
Craig Medred continues "The water here is only Class I and Class II, but the sweepers along the banks and occasional logs across the river can present dangers, as can high water levels. An Anchorage photographer and friend who tried to float this creek in high water ended up losing a boat, suffering a serious scare, and finally decided the wise thing to do was pack up their gear, turn around, struggle back up the bear trail and hike back to Girdwood."
Danny, looking for paddles. He carried an extra paddle for the group. Three paddles were lost. Two paddles from another goup's misadventures were found.
We got out of our rafts rather than "hop" the fallen log.
Rather than travel in one large group with a guide in front and two at the rear we divided up into smaller groups with a guide or experienced rafter.
My biggest challenge was paddling in the dark against the tide and not knowing where the group was. If I hadn't buddied up with Bonnie early on, it would have been much more difficult. She figured out that the slack tide was on the edge of the river which made paddling so much easier. I was so tired by the time that the moon came up behind us, that I felt it was a message from our higher power giving me light to find the group. Joan Diamond
This is not a photograph. But this is what I remember. The lights were on the railroad bridge that crosses the Twentymile. I was so cold and wet and I just wanted ALL of us to get to the landing at the bridge alive. We had been on the river for hours and hours. I could no longer find Joan or Bonnie. Carol was nearby and I was determined to stay in shouting distance of Carol. The tide came in and made forward movement very very difficult. I had visions of floating under the bridges, missing the landing, and spending the rest of my short life in Turnagain Arm. Donna Basinger
And what an adventure it was!! Our weather was all but perfect. We were all put into situations where we had to dig very deep but, we all made it out and with smiles on our faces. I have asked Bjarne why he used to climb the mountains that he did and he said that the view was spectacular but that you challenged yourself, coming off of a climb feeling very much alive and very appreciative for it. Well, that is what we all did last Thurs. We truly challenged ourselves and some of us may have realized that we were more capable then we thought . Our lives are all pretty easy and protected from life threatening challenges but , once in awhile it is good to "step a bit closer to the edge". Our group pulled together and we all came off of the river cold, tired and hungry but with stores that will last a lifetime. For Bjarne and myself we feel fortunate to call you all friends and we look forward to our next adventure. Happy Trails, Robin Holm