Brian and Erik laying out the walls in the basement.
18“ deep slab floor in the basement. Lots of rebar.
Brian checking the wall layout in the basement.
Still checking the wall layout. We only get one chance to layout out the walls. So we need to get it right the first time.
With all of the rebar in the slap and walls, we have to cut all thread for the 100 plus holdowns that are going in this building. Simpson stabs would not work. Most of the holdowns get the 3 1/2“ x 3 1/2” x 1/2“ plate washer double nutted at the bottom of the all thread holdown.
Dam plumber. He put his 4“ drain pipe in my shear wall.
The concrete subcontractor is finally pouring the concrete for the basement walls. 80 yards of concrete.
11' high basement walls. 10-12" thick.
Basement concrete walls water proofed and felt installed. Ready to be backfilled.
I'm laying out the concrete stairs for the concrete subcontractor.
7 3/8" Riser and 10" Tread with a 6" stair throat.
Concrete forms stripped in the basement.
Lots of anchor bolts to straighten.
Fairley level for an 11' tall concrete wall.
Garage retaining wall rebar.
Structural rebar installed for the garage wall retaining wall.
Concrete stairs formed up.
Concrete stair risers formed up.
I think there's 7 tons of rebar in the garage retaining wall.
Concrete subcontractor crew pouring the concrete into the garage wall retaining wall footings.
It's always a pain in the butt to put away all the different tools we use each day. Here we have the Hougen Portable Magnetic Drill, BigFoot Beam Saw, Dewalt Impact Wrench Driver, Hilti gun, Bosch Rotary Hammer Drill, Makita 4" grinder with a diamond cup blade, Skill Saw with a dry cut diamond blade and a Klein Rebar Bender Hickey in this area of the basement.
Erik is drilling 11/16" holes in the 1/2" steel plate using the Hougen Portable Magnetic Drill.
There's always a lot of steel shavings when your drilling out big holes using the Hougen Portable Magnetic Drill.
Erik straightening out the anchor bolts.
Brian using the Hilti gun to shoot down the concrete walls furring plates.
Basement concrete walls look pretty good.
Erik cutting the concrete with a dry cut diamond blade. The concrete forms were in the way of two beam pockets that house 6 x 14 x 1/2 steel plates with ECCO column caps welded to the steel plates.
The first of 10 lumber loads arrived today.
Set the basement studs in the basement using four forklift straps for the 11' negative drop to the basement floor.
We used the TJI joist and string to establish the basement wall heights.
6 x 14 x 1/2 steel plate installed.
We install the holdownds when we're framing the wall . So that we don't have to cut some of studs lose to install the holdown. 5 holdowns in this 8' wall.
Erik and Brian stick framing the walls in the basement. All shear walls have a 3x6 top plate.
With the 3x top plates for the shear walls all of the wall corners will have to be strapped.
11 holdowns in this 8' long wall. 6 at the top and 5 at the bottom.
Brian hasn't lost any of his sense of balance since we quit cutting and stacking roofs.
Brian applying MoistSop caulking in the joist hangers. To prevent floor squeaks. The MoistStop caulking works better than subfloor glue in the hanger.
A bead of caulking at the bottom of the hanger and a bead of caulking at the top of the hangers on both sides of the hanger.
Brian and Erik installing the TJI joist for the first floor.
Detached garage retaining walls formed up and ready for concrete.
Only 5 more beams to set. Out of the 22 beams in the first floor joist.
140 trees on this property. All of them tagged with an ID tag.
The 18" diameter by 12' deep pier holes ready for concrete.
Brian routing out the 3x6 top plate for the MST60 strap.
MST60 strap dadoed on the 3x6 top plate.
Brian laying out the bottom of the PSL beam for the MST60 strap that needs to be dadoed into the bottom of the PSL beam for the shear wall drag tie.
Lots of rebar in this corner of the foundation.
Foundation vents headed out with foam.
AB, Hardy Frame and HDU5 all thread rods installed.
AB, Hardy Frame and ABU bolts installed in garage.
Detached garage and family room ready for concrete.
Family room and kitchen area ready for concrete.
EOR cheching the rebar and structural hadware in the garage footings.
MST60 strap beam to beam drag strap.
MST60 beam to shear wall drag strap.
MST strap router gig.
HDU8 up and down.
HDU8 up & down.
CMST14 strap 3' in length on each side of the shear wall plate break. 7"x7"x1/2" steel plate for HHDQ11 holdownd above.
MST60 Strap dadoed into top plate.
MST straps everywhere.
HDU4 beam to post.
Stair well shear and holdowns installed.
Basement stairs installed.
Basement stairs complete.
Front Entry way porch.
Garage concrete slab ready to pour.
Family room TJI joist installed.
Hardy Frame and Holdownd bolts every where.
TJI joist 8'-0" O.C. mid span blocks installed.
The floor plan turns at an angle of 45° two times.
Concrete workers setting up forms for the three porchs.
15 mil vapor barrior installed in basement.
Garage Hardy Frames installed.
Erik grinding down the concrete for a level surface.
Structural engineer allowed us to use Advantech flooring for the garage. I like the 6" O.C. edge and field nails marks on the plywood.
Laying out the garage roof beam post hardware.
Lots of HDU4 holdowns, PC and BC caps. PC caps go on the bottom of the post connecting to the 4x12 floor joist beams.
All of the roof beams were laser in using our PSL5 laser.
Brian cutting some more 4x4 post for the roof beams. While Erik nails up the post caps.
Brian nailing down the 26 3/16: 12 roof pitch sleeper plates.
Brian nailing down the 26 3/16:12 rafters.
Back side of the garage roof.
Erik making sure the end return beam is level.
We still have lots of roof hardware to install.
Picture of the seat cut of double valley rafters. The backing angle on the valley rafters align with the plan view angle.
Picture of head cut of double valley rafters. The valley backing angle clippled the ends of the valley rafters to produce the correct angle/alignment with the ridge beam.
Picture of hip rafter seat cut on the 2x sleeper beveled to the 26 3/16 roof pitch. Again the backing angle on the double hip rafters align the roof surface of the hip rafter with the plan view angle.
Erik nailing off the shear wall plywood and Brian nailing up the joist hangers.
1/4" per foot joist/rafters align with 7:12 roof rafters.
A little to short on the shear wall plywood.
Brian cutting the first radius rafter tail with the ArcUS blade installed on the Ridgid worm drive saw.
Picture of roof hardware in garage roof.
Advantech flooring is great for the radius saw guide. It's nice and slippery.
The ArcUs blade produces a lot of saw dust. So we have to blow off the saw dust after each radius rafter is cut.
Brian checking the plain of the radius rafter tails.
I'm plotting out the points of the elliptical hip and valley rafters for a 90° plan angle.
Brian and Erik working on the radius rafter tails. While I work on the elliptical hip rafter template.
Elliptical hip rafter plotted out. With 1" increments on the X axis. The plywood rectangle represents the rise and run of the elliptical hip rafter tail.
Elliptical hip rafter plotted out. With 1" increments on the X axis.
The Festool jigsaw was good for something. Brian is cutting the elliptical hip rafters with the Festool jigsaw.
The Festool jigsaw makes a good perpendicular cut in the DF #1&BTR KD material.
Elliptical hip rafter fit perfectly and plained in perfectly. I was even surpised.
We leave all of our rafter tails long when we're cutting the rafters. After the rafters are installed and blocked, we snap a line on top of the rafter tails and then cut them for the fascia line.
A lot of work in this 600 SQFT garage.
I was really surpised when the elliptical valley rafter fit perfectly.
The 26 3/16:12 double hip rafters were backed out. So I had to cut an inside backing angle on the bottom of the ellipictical hip rafter to fit over the 26 3/16:12 double hip rafters.
Is it too much to ask of the CMC to include the hip rafter backing angle? I had to draw out geometric triangles to find the hip rafter backing angle.
The roof hardware is almost complete.
2x10 radiata pine fascia installed on radius rafter tails. As straight as an arrow.
Nice and straight hip rafters.
The boys used a nail gun to nail off the 2x10 radiata pine fascia today. Looks pretty good.
Now for the hard part. The varge rafter will have a radius cut on the top and bottom of the radius varage rafter.
After we install all of the fascia, we re-check the building for level with Stabila levels. So we know where we need to add more structural hardware to keep the building level.
No more structural hardware needed at the Ridgid beam. The Stabila electronic level reads 0.05°.
Re-checking our garage door jambs for plumb with the Stabila electronic level. 89.95°... close enough.
Brian nailing up more purlin blocks.
Brian installing the purlin blocks. 65.38° (roof pitch). 90° plan angle. The purlin blocks are cut at 17.13° miter angle and 42.27° bevel angle.
We forgot to bring any paper to use for tracing the elliptical hip roof sheathing, so we're bending and tracing the 3/8" plywood to get the correct elliptical plywood roof sheathing cut.
Didn't quite get this elliptical hip roof sheathing cut correct.
Erik and Lance roof sheathing the 26 3/16 pitched roof.
Brian nailing off the 3/8" radius rafter tail plywood.
We did a little better on the elliptical valley radius rafter tail plywood cuts.
The 7 sheets for the radius rafter tail plywood took Brian and I, 3 hours to cut and install. That works out to $50.00 a sheet for labor. That's definitely not in the buget.
The subcontractor is pouring the three porchs today.
3" box out around the moment frame columns.
Radius front porch steps.
The gambel roof with radius rafter tails looks pretty neat.
Lots of scrap plywood from the roof sheathing. Tons of wasted sheets on this roof.
Brian and Erik finishing up the roof sheathing.
Time for the palm nailer. The MST60 strap requires 68-16d nails.
Brian trying to nail off the roof MST48 collector strap on the 26 3/16 pitched roof.
MST48 straps require 50-16d nails for the 5080# of tension. After pounding in 50-16d nails on each strap your arm feels like 1000# of tension.
One foot fascia return.
With the 140 trees on the lot, the garage doesn't get much sun.
Varge rafter with radius cut on the top and bottom of the varge rafter. Brian spent 3 hours on the 4' radius varge rafter. That's $26.00 a linel foot for labor. Ouch!
Lance nailing off the CS14 collector strap.
Get out the skate boards.
Garage with 99% of the structural hardware installed.
400 anchor bolts and 100+ holdownd bolts on this job. In this picture the 2 Hardy Frames have the Hardy Frame bearing plate installed on top of the mudsill. They have 2 leveling nuts under the Hardy Frame bearing plates. ($46.50 per bearing plate, 1 1/8" x 5' HDG All Thread Holdownd rod $15.00, 2- 1/2"x3" plate washers $7.00, 8 - 1 1/8" HDG Machine Nuts per Hardy Frame $12.00, 42 - 4 1/2" SDS screws $25.00, Hardy Frame $400.00, total cost per Hardy Frame = $505.50 , times 11 Hardy Frames = $5560.5. Labor to install the Hardy Frames... Price Less
Bolts and pipes everywhere.
Erik removing the stripped out Machine Nut.
This HDU8 holdownd nut was stripped, so we had to remove it with the Dude Tool Nut Wrench and a pipe on the end so we could re-thread the holdowd bolt.
I don't know how many times I've told the boys not to smile or look at the camera when I'm taking their picture.
More roof structural hardware. A ST22 strap on all roof pitch changes and an CS14 collector strap.
All roof hardware is hand nailed.
More roof structural hardware. A ST22 strap on all roof pitch changes and an a couple of CS14 collector straps, and the MST48 and MST60 straps.
The structural engineer didn't want us to use 3/4" Adventech T&G subfloor on the house, so I ordered 1 1/8" CDX.
Brian making off the 1 1/8" CDX T&G subfloor for the 45° change in joist direction.
Erik and Lance doing the Drop and Slide with the T&G subflooring. I told them real carpenters don't even need a sledge hammer to install T&G subflooring. Real carpenters just drop it and slide it in, with their feet. Kinda like scrapping gum off the bottom of your shoe.
Pound that puppy in.
Erik making sure we have the correct "Performance Gap" at the end CDX subflooring. (1/8")
Bad To The Bone
Erik and Lance blowing off the saw dust in front of the chipper.
Brian said the saw feels like a Diansaur.
Erik and Lance installing the CMST14 collector strap in the 1/4"x3" wide dado make with the chipper.
Lots of saw dust from the dado.
I had the dado saw make in 1978. Still works. I think it's still on the first wormdrive motor.
Lance starting the 3 1/2 x 0.162 Brite common nails for Erik with the palm nailer.
50' of CMST14 straps nailed off. Ready to get out of the rain.
Getting started on framing the walls.
Garage frame is complete.
Erik rolling up the plans after a long day of framing walls.
HHDQ11 up 7" off 3X bottom plate to the first SDS screw in HHDQ11 holdown.
HDQ8 barely fit in the wall.
Caution! There's holdownds everywhere. The concrete subcontractor didn't hold the all thread rods up high enough for some of the holdowns. We had to install 6 couplers on the 49 holdowns on the fitrst floor. Boy, hate installing couplers on holdownd rods and so do the inspectors.
Tight fit on another HDU5 Holdownd.
Tight fit on another HDQ8 holdownd.
75 4x6 post, 30 4x4 post, 20 6x6 post, 10 6x8 post, 8 4x10 post in the first floor frame. The post are kicking our butt! A lot of stick framing the walls in the air for the walls that are to heavy to lift by hand.
Continuous 6x12 entry HDR with 6 post under the 6 x12 HDR.
Hope this porch doesn't sink. It's setting on 12' of back fill that was compacted.
Seven holdowns in the porch. We'll have to laser in all the post and stud heights due to the 1/4" slope in the concrete in evey direction.
Didn't get much done this week. It either rained, snowed or was too cold for California carpenters to be productive.
Foggy and rainy.
Not much room for any joist after we installed floor joist beams.
LGT3 beam to header uplift connection.
Brian installing SDS screws in the ECCQ column caps on the master bedroom porch beams.
More tight fitting PHD2 holdowns.
MST72 strap in stair well.
Installing the beam to post PHD5 holdowns before you install any joist makes it a lot eaiser.
Sheetrockers are going to hate all the straps. Try nailing your interior door trim casing with the MST straps in the way.
HSUR beam hangers.
Muddy with the sun trying to shine.
I had the trusses delivered, while we wait for the steel moment frames to complete the second floor joist.
81' boom on the truss truck. Step 1.
Run across the top plates. Step 2.
Brian guiding the trusses into place. Step 3.
First load of trusses being set. Step 4.
Brian signaling the truss truck driver to raise the boom cable. Step 6.
Erik on the ground signaling the truss truck triver.
We haven't had any trusses on a building in over 6 years. So, it's been a while since Brian loaded any trusses.
Brian's closed fist means "STOP IMMEDIATELY" .
Brian signaling the truss truck driver to raise the boom cable.
Lance installing the A35 clips 6" O.C. for the shear wall tranfer connection.
Erik raising the gambel gable scissor truss. While, Brian holds the truss tail down.
It's alway nice when the rake wall fits the scissor truss.
We installed internal ceiling ridge blocks for sheetrock nailing as we stood the trusses.
I had Lance take a picture of me lifing the 300 pound trusses. Not bad for a 58 year old stacker.
Checking truss layout. To see how much we were gainging with the 3x ridge blocks.
Sure am glad I don't have to lift 300 pound trusses everyday anymore. Getting to old for this type of thing.
Lance dropped and broke the camera after this picture was taken. At least I have proof that I can still roll trusses, when your old, bald and over weight.
Lance and Erik nailing off the gable end shear wall panels.
We set up scaffolding on the outside of the house to sheathe the 26:12 roof.
10' of compacted soil on the backside of the garage.
Still waiting for the moment frames, so we can finish the second floor joist.
Lance installing A35's , 5" O.C. over the top of the Hardy Frames.
The 5 hardy frames in the Kitchen and dining room are all custom height Hardy Frames.
We've installed over 400 A35 clips so far. Another 200+ left to install. We've also installed 200 LTP4 clips.
Erik setting the steel moment frames columns for the welders.
The welder tack welds the bottom of each column as they set them.
Brian and Erik roof sheathing.
CTS, the special inspection compamy, signature on the W8x40 floor joist beam for the welding.
Ready to install the 4x10 top plate nailer and 4x8 side plate nailers.
1 1/8" Hardy Frame bolts installed on the moment frame.
5/8" all thread bolts 12" on center for the top plate nailer.
HDU5 all thread rod drilled out.
Ready to install the side plate nailers.
Welding the W10x45 steel moment frame to the W6x25 column legs.
Brian cutting off the all thread rods.
Cut 3/4 of the way thru the all thread and hit it with your hammer to remove the all thread rod.
We're setting the W8x40 floor joist beam.
600 pounds of steel and 200 pounds of wood nailers.
Brian routing out the top plates for the steel plates at each end of the W8x40 joist beam.
1/2" deep dadoe.
Lots of saw dust.
Good reason to wear safety glasses.
Hardy Frame number 10.
Erik planning down the 1 1/8" plywood block to 15/16" for the TJI web stiffeners.
Time for new planer blades after planing down 400 1 1/8" plywood blocks to 15/16" for the TJI web stiffeners.
You can get dissy looking down at the joist and beams running every which direction.
Erik installing the shear wall LVL blocks.
The dadoe saw has come in handy on this job. Here I had to dadoe out the bottom of the moment frame nailer.
A35 clips, 4.5" O.C.
6x12 moment frame top and side plate nailer installed.
The sheet rockers are going to hate this house, because of all the collector straps on the ceiling.
The moment frame top plate nailer and side plate nailer took me all day to install. The 6x12 top plate nailer had to be ripped down to 10" , then drilled and counter sunk for the bolts and then dadoed for the steel plates that were sicking up at each end of the moment frame. The side plate nailer had to be ripped down to 4 3/4" x 8 3/8".
Erik and Lance laying subfloor on the second floor.
Collector strap blocks with an PHD2 in the middle of the intersection of the blocks. All gun nails are HDG on this house.
Brian installing web stiffeners for the shear wall collector stap blocks.
There are over 70 floor joist beams in the second floor joist and over 100 3 1/2" x 11 7/8" collector staps blocks.
Erik and Lance trying to figure out which direction to lay the subfloor. The subfloor changes direction 10 times on the second floor joist.
The sun finaly came out at the end of the day.
Erik nailing off the subfloor with a double row 10d screw nails at 4" O.C. staggered.
The last picture of 2009.
I fell like we were on a really slow boat to china this last month with the structural steel issues, but the second floor subfloor is finally complete.
With an exterior dormer 7'-4" PL. HT. , it makes it pretty easy to lift the walls if you get to hold the camera.
The 6x6 continous header with no frame plates over, allows us to achive a 6'-10 1/2" window header height.
Lance is laughing, because Brian can nail the top plates together even if he is only 5'-8" tall.
3x6 exterior bottom plates for the shear walls.
45° hip pitch rake wall in the center of the building.
The 26:12 rake wall studs and plates were tough to cut. Hope I got the calculation correct for the gambrel roof.
Hip pitch rake wall in the center of the building.
This is the only rake wall we could lift with the forklift. Zoom in and you can see the airplane to the left of the forklift strap.
Library room with 4x shear walls each side.
16 rakes walls framed. Only 8 more rake walls to frame.
Second Floor wall framing complete.
1 of 40 second floor continous load path MST27 straps installed.
Library gambel roof beams set.
Bedroom #1 gambel roof beams set.
6x12 ridge beams at 45° to each other set.
20 roof beams set. Only 10 more roof beams to set.
8" of rain this week. Really didn't get anything done.
26:12 pitch rafters with an 1" air gap above the beams.
135° eave angle roof calculations
Shaped ridge, top and bottom, with sliced cut for HU hanger.
Someone needs to tell Simpson the HRC, hip to ridge hanger, does not work correctly.
HRC hanger is in the way of the sheetrock.
CMSTC16 strap at 45° ridge connection.
The gambel roof looks like a bat dormer with the plywood extending on each side for the radius rafters.
The bent steel rafters arrived today.
The forklift just barely reached, to set the bent steel rafter.
26:12 valley rafters with valley trough bevel. (backing angle) I found out the hard way that you need to valley trough the 26:12 valley rafters before you lay out the valley rafter plumb marks.
Left and right handed saws for cutting valley rafter angled bevels.
Steel bent beam rafters set.
Steel bent beam joist/rafter set.
26:12 to 7:12 apex point with HUC hanger.
67.5° plan angle hips set.
2' deep mud holes. We can barely drive the forklift anymore.
Steel bent beam joist/rafter with 4x8 nailers on both sides of the W8x10 steel I-Beam. 3x8 nailers on the top with 22.5° HUC hangers.
Lots of planing and calculations to make this 67.5° plan angle roof axis point work. The 7:12 to 26:12 roof axis point was tough enough to calculate. Let alone the 67.5° steel bent beam hip rafter.
22.5° HUC hanger installed on the steel bent beam hip rafter nailers.
Brian trimming up the steel bent beam hip rafter nailer.
Erik installing 3x4 blocks for the CS14 collector strap.
Inside view of the steel bent beam hip rafter.
Master bedroom bath HFX hardy frames installed on 6x12 nailer on the W10x45 I-Beam.
1" air gap on each side of the rafters at the LVL beam and 3x12 shaped blocks for the CS14 strap on the shear wall.
75° plan angle double valley rafters installed.
Master bedroom sloped ceiling with bent steel rafter.
3x10 rafters dadoed into the bent steel rafter. With an HU612 hanger for the 6x12 ridge and an HRC hanger for the 4x10 hip rafters.
Cut in valley rafters for the master bedroom bath sloped ceiling.
67.5 plan angle hip rafters connected to the bent steel hip rafter 3x nailer.
Brian and Erik roof sheathing. Lance is inside the building installing more structural hardware. Lance has been installing structural hardware on this building for 2 full months.
The forklift boom needs some paint.
I feel like we're still on a slow boat to China on this house. It will take another two weeks to finish the roof sheathing with all the unconstructable engineering structural issues that we have to address.
Plotting out the elliptical hip rafters for the 135° eave angle.
Elliptical hip rafter template for the 135° eave angle.
Brian installing the top sheet of plywood on the 26:12 rafters. While Erik nails off the 50' CMSTC16 strap with the postive placement gun.
Erik and Lance nailing off roof hardware. While Brian installs the top sheet of plywood on the 26:12 pitched rafters.
90 radius rafters cut in about 2 hous with the Arcus cicular blade.
The radius rafters were easy to cut. The hard part was figuring out the angle on the bottom of the radius rafters that set on top of the 26:12 pitch roof.
We leave off the middle sheet of plywood on the 26:12 rafters, so we can nail off the plywood and install the ST22 straps at the roop pitch change.
Erik nailing off the one of the 8 CS14 roof diaphragm collector straps.
Radius rafter tails with MSTI26 strap nailed to radius rafter tail and truss top cord.
Inside view ofthe MSTI26 strap nailed to the truss top cord and radius rafter tail on the out side of the building.
Radius rafter tails installed on the back of the house.
Radius rafter tails with and elliptical hip rafter at the 135° eave angle and elliptical valley rafter at the 90° eave angle. We left the middle sheet of plywood off the 26:12 pitched rafters, so we can crawl inside the roof and nail off the MSTI26 straps that atttach the radius rafter tails to the roof.
This is the most wastefull house I've ever built. The lumber trash pile on the left is 8' tall and 20 feet wide. You could almost build a complete house with the lumber cut offs.
Front porch radius varges and radius shingle mold.
We can't finish roof sheathing the 26:12 and radius rafters, until we had 6 more shear and hardware inspections.
We're ready for the 7:12 pitched roof nailing inspection.
Master Bedroom radius varges.
Master bath radius varges.
One of 15 radius varges with radius shingle mold. Only 6 more to radius varges to do.
Close up of 1x10 and 1x4 radius shingle mold. Brian did an excellent job on installing the radius varges and radius shingle mold.
Brian installing the last of the radius shingle mold.
Radius rafter roof sheathing complete. It only took 8 building inspections before we could finish off the roof sheathing.
Elliptical hip rafter on the left side is at the 90° eave angle and the center elliptical hip rafter is at an eave angle of 135°.
Crown Miter and Bevel settings for 7 1/4" exterior porch crown molding. At $8.00 an LF for the 7 1/4" crown molding we can afford that many test cuts.
We caulk each piece of siding as we install it. With DAP® ALEX Ultra® 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant. This way the caulk is applied behind the overlapping joints of the 1x8 beveled redwood siding. On the front of the garage we had to use screws to attach the 5/4" trim and siding to the Hardy Frames on each side of the garage doors.
For the bottom row of 1x8 beveled redwood siding we'll attach a 1x1 redwood kick out strip for nailing, to the concrete with concrete screws or concrete shot pins.
Typical trim detail for the doors and windows tops. The 2 1/2" crown molding is primed cedar nailed on top of a 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 RAD, that is on top of a 5" piece of hardy plank siding. We needed a total depth of 1 3/4" for the side back band trim that is nailed on the side casing trim piece that is 1" x 3 1/2" RAD.
Couldn't resist taking a picture of the roofer's installing the composition shingles on the 26/12 pitched roof.
Pretty tough job, when your standing on a roof jack all day.
There's a lot of work in the exterior window trim. All of the exterior clear redwood window aprons are screwed to the window water table sills that we made.
We have to back cut the 2x6 window head trim. To allow for the way the windows are make.
Very labor intense with the siding cuts for the window crown molding trim. Twenty five of the windows have crown molding. So that's 50 times we have to cut out the profile of the crown molding on the 1x8 beveled siding with the jig saw.
Three bent over 16D HDG finish nails. Sure do whish we had a gun that shot 3 1/2" HDG finish nails. I had to buy a 50 pound box of 16D HDG finish nails for all of the 5/4 trim.
There's CMST14 straps above and below most of the windows. So we have to drill thru the trim and CMST14 strap, befor we screw the trim to the wall.
Window side casings with a 45° back cut so we can get the window trim to lay flat and tight against the window. All of the exterior 1x8 siding, fascia and trim cuts are primed before we install it. We've already used over 50 spray cans of primer and we're not even half way done with the exterior trim.
Erik scratching his head. He's trying to figure out how to measure the exterior siding when there's a radius cut on both ends of the 1x8 siding board.
I showed Erik how to cut two boards 12" long with the radius cuts at each end and then measure the distance inbetween the two pices to figure out the total length of the 1x8 siding with a radius cut at each end.
Brian and Mark finishing off the gable end rake soffit trim. There's a 1x6 below the gable end soffits.
Baffle vents for the air flow in the rake ceilings.
Only 14 more windows to trim out. It looks like I'll have to replace some of the double ply 60 minute WRB paper on the front of the house. It's getting too many ultraviolet rays.
This 1x12 column trim is taking forever. First we have to rip it to 10 1/4 inches wide. Sand the ripped edge. Use the router with a 1/8" radius bit to make it look correct and paintable. Sand it again. Then two coats of primer. Then install it with a 1/4" corner reveal.
Radius corner trim.
Erik matching up the height on the siding as it goes around the corner.
We had to dado out the back of the 1x6 V-Rustic for all the straps and hangers in the porch ceilings.
Guest bedroom porch.
Guest bedroom porch with WinsorOne 1x6 V-Rustic on the ceilings.
We cut our old Stabila levels up to the size we need.
Mrs Dumas and her daughter and Greg Jack the General contractor
Greg's son Dillon. His son Dillon has been with him for about ten of the building inspections.
Brian and Erik caulking the siding and trim, before we raise the pump jacks up to finish the gable end.
1x6 RAD radius soffit board with 1/2" deep kerf cuts 1" on center for the 3' radius.
Brian and Erik bending the 1x6 RAD radius soffit board to match the gable end radius.
We nail up the radius soffit to match the gable end radius, then screw the radius soffit board to the framing to make sure it doesn't pop loose.
Libaray gable end complete.
Real Wood Made Better - Prime All Cuts, Glue all Corner Trim, Caulk all joints, but don't do any of the above until the Moisture Content of the Real Wood is less than 14%.
Gary Katz's paint container trick.
Gluing up the corner trim.
We tried Gary Katz's glue trick today. Where you use the glue as the primer on ripped corner trim. We were priming the ripped corner trim. Letting it dry. Then gluing the two pieces together. The only problem we had with Gary's glue primer trick, was putting to much glue on the first corner trim we assembled. Also, cutting a slit in the lid of a paint container does work. The paint brush dosen't dry out, but it seems to be quiet messy.