Truss plates finally arrived.
Bottom chord truss plates with an 1" tie rod welded to the ends of the truss plates.
Great job on the sandblasting and painting.
3/8" plate welded to the ends of the truss plate.
Brian and Erik drilling the first truss rafter.
Snapped lines on the floor of the truss rafter profile to use as a template, while building the truss rafters.
Erik drilling out the truss plate holes with the Protool drill guide. Brian, my older son, making suse his younger brother centers the drill guide correctly.
Nice clean straight holes in the double 4x8 rafters.
16 Truss plates per truss and 68 square head bolts per truss
Tightening 68 bolts by hand.
First truss built.
68 - 5/8" x 5" square head bolts and square washers per truss
Put the tarp up. The truss plates were too hot to touch in the 100 degree weather.
Brian using a bell reamer drill bit to align the truss plate holes.
Brian drilling out more truss plate holes.
Office truss ready to set. 700 pounds of wood and truss plates.
Cleaning up at the end of the day.
Brian setting the first Family room truss.
Erik guiding the truss into place.
Lots of steel in this building.
4' on center trusses.
Looking out the second floor bedroom window into the family room.
Office trusses set.
Hope my rakes walls are correct.
Brian is using a 5/8" Forstner drill bit for the pilot hole. He drills the pilot hole using the truss plate as an template. Erik is using the Protool drill guide, with an 18" Wood Owl Ultra Smooth Tri-cut Ship Augers bit, to drill the double stacked 4x8 truss rafters.
Brian and Erik positioning the truss rafter, so they can tighten the truss plate bolts.
Erik tighting truss plate bolts.
Only 300 more bolts to tighten.
Brian Erik, Cristian and Felipe tighting the truss plate bolts.
Brian lifting up the master bedroom truss rafter.
Felipe guiding the truss rafter into postion.
SkyTrac 6042 is almost maxed out at 42' with a 700 pound truss rafter.
Need to cut back the Oak tree some more.
Office truss rafters.
Top of truss rafter. 4 - 1/4" truss plates.
Erik guiding the truss rafter into position.
The Truss rafter is supported in the center of the truss by a sling. This allows the truss rafter to sag at the ends of the truss rafter creating a 1/4“ camber in the truss before the truss plate bolts are tighten.
Cristian, Erik and Felipe setting the last truss rafter in the master bedroom.
When I first looked at this picture, I thought Erik was picking his nose! But if you zoom in you can see he's pointing in the direction he wants the forklift driver, Brian, to move the truss.
Cristian watching the forklift driver, while setting the truss rafter.
Felipe setting the truss rafter.
2600 LF of DF KD CLEAR VERTICAL GRAIN
DF KD CLEAR VERTICAL GRAIN
$7.00 a LF + Tax
Everyone checking out the 2x8 truss roof decking material.
At $7.00 a LF, it better look perfect. That's $12.00 a SF for roof sheathing material.
2x8 T&G DougFir Clear Vertical Grain. 8', 12', 16', and 20' lengths.
The office 2x8 T&G decking is installed. The office is 14' in length and we used 16' 2x8 T&G roof decking lumber. With 1' of waste at each side of the office roof we ended up with $500.00 in scrap lumber . That hurts!
Nice tight butt joints.
The boys roof sheathing the family room.
The structural call out was to hand nail the 2x8 T&G roof decking with 16d sinkers. The boys used two full boxes of 16d sinkers nailing off the roof decking. It's the most hand nailing the boys have done in a long time.
3“ SDS screws into the Truss Rafters and the shaped 4x8 Frieze Blocks. We drilled 177 9/32” holes in the steel I-Beams for the SDS screws.
Family room roof decking and trusses.
Master bedroom 2x8 roof deck sheathing installed.
They painted my 3x6 over build rafters and 2x8 roof sheathing to prevent the lumber from drying out and cracking in the 100° weather.
Family room over build rafter tails being painted.
Master bedroom truss rafters and 2x8 T&G roof sheathing installed.
4' trellis over build rafters.
3x10 and 3x4 trellis rafters being installed.
We used 6“ SDS screws and 6” Timber LedgerLock screws to attach the gable end trellis rafters.
Brian and Erik installing the 3x6 over build blocks.
Brian installing the 6“ Timber LedgerLock screws.
The over build rafters cantilever 4'-5“ pass the last Truss Rafter.
The Timber LedgerLock screws work pretty good. Nice big head on the screw.
Almost done with the Family Room trellis. Ready for painting.
The trellis overhang looks pretty massive. It sags about an 1“ at the outside bottom corners when one of the boys are standing on it.
Getting started on the Master Bedroom Trellis.
Every piece of lumber in the overbuild trellis was screwed. No nails.
Need to cut that tree back some more.
The overbuild outlookers are 3' on center. With an 8“ gap at the center. I left the ridge board out, so the trellis rafters wouldn't have dry/wet rot at the ridge.
Family room trellis complete.
The overbuild trellis needs a structural fasica.
Master Bedroom trellis complete and ready to paint.
Over build outlooker hardware.
Lots of air ventilation holes in the overbuild.
All of the trellis rafters were attached with screws.
Air ventilation holes drilled in Master Bedroom.
We framed in 9 skylites on the second floor.
Two 1 1/4" holes drilled per rafter bay into the 3/4" T&G roof sheathing for air ventilation.
Brian sheathing the master bedroom roof.
1" air gap above the foiled foam installation.
Erik and Brian roof sheathing the master bedroom roof.
Notice the sledge hammer in front of Brian's feet. This is the first time we've used 3/4" T&G subfloor for a sloped roof sheathing.
Not sure if this house will ever be done. We started it 6 months ago.
Erik needs to suck in his gut. Way to much food of the lunch wagon!