The hole was finished being cut and graded this morning and we started to set up the footing about 1 this afternoon.
It took us a couple of hours to get the exterior set up.
First thing this morning we set up the PLS90e to check square. I get really timid when it comes to footings because I really do not want to find out its out of square after the concrete is cured. Check, check again, an then check again.
Footing is raised to grade, and steel is in.
We failed inspection because I forgot to expand the footings in certain spots. So we spent a couple of hours expanding the footings in spots and digging them down for a 12" depth. You can zoom in and see the 36"x36" expanded footing on the right side there.
Got a late start placing concrete this morning because the 3" line pump was jammed while the patios next door were poured.
Another expanded footing.
Poured (placed) the footings, snapped lines, set clips, scattered panels and tied bar before we quit. It was a very good day.
Walls set up in about 4 hours. We dodged rain all day. It rained first thing this morning, but we were at the store getting supplies. Then set up walls, it rained during lunch. Then we shot grade and set grade nails and quit, then it just dumped rain. We poured some of the piers when we poured the footings. There are 40 total and we'll get the rest when we pour the walls.
Line pump and the first concrete truck ready to go, 8 am
Foundation walls just before we place the concrete. I ordered 13 1/2 yds
Morning started out raining, so we had to use a dryline to place all the mudsill. This slowed us down.
On this job we built the shearwalls instead of using concrete footings and stemwalls. It added to the framing much more than I anticipated.
Got our "underfloor" inspection, took lunch and the sheathing hath begun!!
Same basic shot, just played with the color a bit.
Raining again on us, but not too bad. It stopped later in the day.
This morning while the guys brought all the lumber down from the other job I built a table for the mitersaw. I basically ripped of Brian McCarthy's design completely.
We'll come up with a better stop system, but a scap 4x and two clamps worked well and made short work of cutting trimmers.
Matt showing how big his ego is to Betto, who thinks he is drastically underestimating it.
One more picture.
Matt and Jeff setting up to gang cut the great room rafters.
Jeff cutting the ridge (plumb) cuts.
If you zoom in you'll see that the cut was about 1/16" off the line at the last rafter. Good enough for govm't work.
Since only 6 rafters have tails, Matt just free hands the cut.
Jeff cutting the plumbcut at the plate. Most of these rafters sit on interior walls.
It is easier to cut with the bottom of the bar in this case. So the dust isn't thrown to the ground, and its filling up Jeffs pants.
In this case, we felt it was easier to use the chainsaw. The rafters were somewhat uneven and its easier to cut this with the Headcutter than the Big Foot w/swingtable.
Our birdblocks held together in 3' long units and just run down the middle with the saw. As we nail them between rafters, we just knock out the middle for venting.
Since the rafters for the main part of the roof were just about 30' to the tail, we used I-joists.
Set the Chainsaw angle to a line drawn on a 6x12.
Line up the saw with the cut line, mark the end of the table and tack the guide.
Chainsaw just flies through the I-joists.
We are not cutting a birdsmouth on these rafters. So the length to the tail is being marked out. There is almost no waste on these rafters. They are 30' stock and the measurement is 29' 6 1/4".
Cutting the plumb portion of the tail.
Cutting the seat (level) portion of the tail.
Web stiffeners are required at the ridge cut where the joist will be nailed into a hanger.
Jeff is doing the same thing at the tail. Then we'll nail a 2x block at the plumb cut for the subfascia to nail to. A little labor intensive, but the roof will be flat, the I-joists are $50/stick cheaper than 2x12 and they are much much lighter.
Matt is nailing the hangers to the glulam ridge.
Lifting the great room ridge.
Getting to be lunch time.
Right after lunch and its sunny now!
First thing this morning we are starting to set the main ridge. It is about 42' including overhangs.
First try, and realize that it'd be better to back in and up the hill.
The taller post was about 15' 3" and the shorter one will sit on the floor.
Beveled plate nailed to the top of the porch beam. This elimintates the need to cut a birdsmouth in the I-joist rafters.
Using both forklifts for staging to set the rafters. They are just shy of 30'
Getting ready to set the LVL rafters that will sit under the dormer walls.
Rained on us all day and I just didn't feel like getting a good picture. This is from the next lot over.
Ugly again this morning. Feels like February. It is cold and raining.
We decided to nail the rafters into the ridge and then lift it.
Master bedroom below the small gable, bathroom to the left. We just didn't feel like finishing the overframing over the great room. It is just a miserable day.
Two gables to the left will get framed over the den and a bigger one that will extend over the entry. We'll overframe those probably last. There is a dormer on the right that will center over that dining room window.
Here is a link to the plan. http://www.mascord.com/plan_details.asp?PlanID=22158
Here Jeff is laying out to frame the gable using the Stabila laser.
We have to frame this wall before the other roof and sheathe it because its is a shearwall. We'll have to A35 the I-joist rafter to the wall also, every 2' oc
Another rainy windy day. But right as we are ready to roll up, the wind blows a hole in the clouds for some brief sunshine.
You can see the trees bowing.
I-joist rafters have no birdsmouth and sit on a beveled plate. The smaller span has 2x12 rafters landing on a double 2x4 plate. This gives us almost a perfect 3 1/2" seatcut and still 2 1/2" for the 2x8 ceiling joists to bear on inside. This eliminates the need to notch them to sit on taller plates.
Blocking at the sheathing breaks. Also this gable rafters is lowered 1 1/2" so the lookouts can run over the top. It is a goofy detail to use lookouts on I-joist rafters because you cannot cut the top flange. I wonder if it matters when the entire wall is supported and sheathed. I doubt it.
It seemed easier to lower the gable rafter so the lookouts could run over the top. So we installed lookouts ever 4' with 2x4 "spacers".
The gable rafter needed to be "A35'd" (it is a verb) to the shearwall below ever 2' oc.
We layed enough sheathing to start the gable overframing. We snapped a line representing the bottom of the gable. Then a line square to that at the dead center, then snapped out the valleys.
I've never done it this way, but it worked out really well.
2x4 nailed that represents the gable.
Calculated the rafters and ridge and precut it all.
Photo stitched. The valleys are straight, really!
Decided to build the dormer in the garage.
Snapped it out to scale to get the lengths.
I had pictures of the dormer all finished but they didn't download. Oh well.
Just about ready to set the dormer.
Kyle is back!!
Set up to cut the barrel vault aches out of 3/4" OSB that was old. Just using a site cut trammel.
Arcus blade works really well. But you have to cut counter clockwise.
Set up a few 27 1/2 square OSB blanks to cut the cove curve for the dining room ceiling.
Jeff (foreground) and Matt nailing the "purlins" for the barrel section.
Next section. We frame them with about a 16" gap between sections so the electrician can put his cans it without anything in the way.
Taking numbers to cut sheathing. Matt first measures down the curve on the purlins, then he'll measure from the end of the curve to the valley.
Connect the dots.
Not to bad a gap for framers. The drywall and mud will make use look almost professional :-)
Kyle and Matt
We've been building our own vents ever since Joe Bartok figured out the formulas for the compound miters and posted it on his website. http://ca.geocities.com/xpf51/index.html
Little dentils that will go under the vent. Just 4x6, cut 45 degrees and rounded over.
Not bad for a framer . . . . .of course I only did the toe kicks and some base ;-)
My brother, Bryan has been doing trim with our finish carp while Betto is gone. Here he is coping crown with the Collins coping foot. It is so simple even a caveman with earwax can do it!! http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_coping_foot.htm
This morning Bryan and I finished the crown in the dining room. First time I've ever done it, but I've watched it done at JLC LIVE quite a few times.