We left Philly on a Saturday afternoon and arrived in Christchurch on Monday morning. Active New Zealand Tours picked us up and we headed south. One of our first stops was the picturesque Church of the Good Shepherd, built on Lake Tekapo by the pioneers of Mackenzie County in 1935. Just east of the church is a perky-looking Collie Dog Monument, built in 1968 by the sheep farmers of the area as a mark of thier deep respect and affection for the dogs that make it possible to graze the harsh terrain.
Lake Tekapo derives its name from the Maori word taka ("sleeping mat") and Po ("night"). It is a glacier fed lake backed by the Southern Alps. Light reflecting off the sediments from the glaicers give it a beauiful blue-green color. After a quick stop we headed onward to Braemar Station on Lake Pukaki.
The shearers' quarters at Braemar Station was our home for the first two nights in NZ. We could walk to Lake Pukaki; a 30km long lake with opaque, pale blue waters. Some members of the group went for a swim and it was chilly. Otherwise the lake was quiet.
Our first full day in NZ we hiked Mt. Cook National Park to Sealy Tarns and Mueller Ridge. It was a tough hike up but the view down and of Mueller Glacier was amazing. We hiked into and above the clouds that obscured our views. We could hear massive waterfalls on the nearby mountains and an avalanche or two.
The lake below is Mueller Lake and the bit of glacier in the background is Mueller glacier. It was a 3 hour hike staight up, with 18" steps most of the way. We were sore the next day!
Sealy Tarns was about two-thirds of way to the ridge. They were small pond-like lakes from snow melt. Part of the Main Divide is in the background, as the clouds parted a bit. The hike is listed as a 10km (6-8hrs) return hike with a 1000m ascent.
After Sealy Tarns, the going got tougher. Climbing over boulders in the clouds and finally lots of loose scree.
As we climbed higher, the view just kept getting better. In the lower right hand corner is part of Mt Cook village and in the lower left is the car park where we started the hike. The larger river in the background is the Hooker River, which starts at Hooker Lake and the Hooker Glacier.
After the Mueller Ridge hike we headed back to Braemar Station to enjoy a Kiwi BBQ and some wine. It is a working sheep farm and we spotted these guys on an after dinner walk. There about 4 million people in all of NZ and about 40 million sheep.
The view from our room (the porch of the shearers' quarters) was spectacular. Mount Cook is known as Aoraki ("cloud piercer") by the Maori and is the highest peak in NZ at 3754m. The national park encompasses 22 peaks over 3000m, the lion's share of NZ high mountains. At the station, sheep would wonder by from time to time, eating the grass on the hills. They were in a bit of a drought while we were there.
Sunset over Lake Pukaki. The days were warm there but once the sun went down long pants and a jacket were needed. At night the stars were beautiful as there was no developed area within miles. We saw Orion but he was upside down.
The next morning was an early one and we headed off over the Lindis Pass into Queenstown for lunch. On the way we stopped for real-fruit ice cream in Cromwell. We had sushi in Queenie and took a walk to Lake Wakatipu, in the photo.
Wednesday evening we arrived at Lake Manapouri for the night. The lake has three distinct arms and a vast catchment area that creates massive hyrdoelectric generating capacity. The West Arm Power Station produces energy primarily for a smelter. It was a cold, clear lake and we could hear the waves through our open window that night.
The beach at Lake Manapouri was littered with rows of small, smooth stones.
After a long day of driving a walk on the beach before diner was a nice treat.
It rained overnight in Manapouri and when we woke up to start our bike ride to Te Anau we saw a beautiful rainbow. Just before we arrived in Te Anau we made a quick stop at a bird sanctuary where we saw threatened native birds.
After a 20km ride to Te Anau we hopped back on the bus and drove trough the Eglinton Valley towards Milford Sound. We stopped at Mirror Lakes where, when the weather is calm, the mountains are reflected in the lakes.
We hiked part of the famous Routeburn Track that afternoon. It was a 5 km, 2-3hr return with 400m ascent. This part of the track, to Key Summit, overlooks the Holleyford Valley, Lake Marian and Mt. Christina. This shot is from the first part of the hike, through the sub-alpine forest.
On top of the Key Summit. There was a small wetland and great views, when the clouds cleared. The last part of the hike was above the treeline and seemed like endless switchbacks before we got to the top. It was a beautiful day for a hike.
View from the Routeburn Track hike. This area is part of Fiordland National Park, NZ largest. The 12,500 square km of the park encompass the raw landscape with deep, icy and mountain-fringed fiord gouged out over the last 2 million years by glaciers creakining off the tail of the Southern Alps. We ate a picnic lunch where this shot was taken; foccia bread with hummus, tomaotes, cukes and cheese.
Giant ferns were a constant presence on the trip as the grew all over the south island. This one was seen on the Routeburn Track hike.
Fiordland gets a lot of rain, up to seven meters a year. The Routeburn Track hike showed us many scenes like this.
Water rushed down a stream next to the trail on the way down from Key Summit. In general, the water in NZ is safe to drink. Our guides advised filling water bottles at certain streams and it tasted wonderful. Its coldness was a welcome relief after a long hike.
After the Key Summit hike we got back on the bikes and rode into the Hollyford Valley. The dirt road was rarely traveled and was "80% downhill and 40% uphill" according to our guide. At the end of the road was the start of the Hollyford Track, which we did not do.
The ride followed the Hollyford river which we could hear through the trees. The cacophony of cicadas almost drowned out the wind in our ears. We had the option to ride back up to the Hollyford Camp or do a quick hike to a waterfall and hop back on the bus; we picked the waterfall hike.
Just before driving through the Homer Tunnel and into Milford Sound we stopped to take pictures of the mountains around. Work on the 1200m tunnel started in 1935 by a crew of eight. In 1948, after many problems, the project was abandoned until 1952. It was finally complete in 1953 opening Milford Sounds to road traffic for the first time. This section of the road is one of the world's most avalanche prone. Our bus can be seen in the left hand corner of the shot.
We spent Thursday night at the Milford Lodge and had a pizza dinner at a local resturant. There was no tomato sauce on the pizza; the Kiwis just don't eat it that way. That night there was a "pimps and hos" party at the resturant (it was Valentines Day) so we stayed out for a game of pool and a beer with our tour mates. It is a semi-tradition to wear this t-shirt on Valentines Day. Note Min in the background, with happy feet.
Early the next morning we met our kayak guides and were kitted out for a day on Milford Sound. It was a chilly day so we were provided with polypropalene thermals, a fleece jacket, windbreaker, life jacket, paddle and the kayak skirt. Many in the group were distraught that morning because the kayak guides asked that we not drink any coffee before the ride as there are very few places to stop for a restroom break.
Lady Bowen Falls is 160m tall and according to our guide, Jimmy, three times the height of Niagara Falls. It was named after the wife of George Bowen, a governer of NZ in the 1860s. The river that forms the falls is the source of the village's water and hydroelectricity.
Two-person sea kayaks were our mode of transport. Mitre Peak (1694m) was a center point of the fiord. It was named for its resemblance to a bishop's mitre. The walls around the fiord tower 1200m above the sea and waterfalls plunge from hanging valleys. We saw many sea lions lounging on the rocks and looked for dolphins. There was a strong off-shore wind that day but it was brilliantly sunny. The water was extremely clear and dropped off suddenly at the edges with no beaches. The deepest point was 450m. The depth and dark water was home to red and black corals that normally grow at much greater depths.
Milford is a flooded glacial valley rather than a river valley, which technically makes it a fiord, not a sound. Maori knew it as Piopioatahi ("the single thrush"). As there are no native land mammals in NZ, the birds are plentiful and diverse. This little guy was after our Raru (a drink that tastes like warm Tang) during a mid-morning break on the water. One side of the fiord is open to commercial fishing and we saw crayfish farms. These crayfish were large, like lobsters, but without the big claws.
On our way out of Milford Sound on Friday morning we stopped at the Chasm. It is a collection of near vertical rapids where the Cleddau River has scoured out a deep narrow channel. Some say this part of the chasm looks like a screaming face.
Self-taken shot at the Chasm. It was another very popular tourist stop due to its proximity to the main road and easy walk to the rapids.
The carpark at the Chasm with views of a peak and our bus. On our way back to Queenstown that day we stopped in Te Anau to return the bikes and pick up our food trailer.
Queenstown is not a big town, a population of only 8000 but it is the adventure capitol of NZ if not the world. We went out for Indian food on Friday night and hit the Dux de Lux bar afterword to listen to a live band and sample the brew. This shot is overlooking Lake Wakapitu. There is a coal-fired steamship, the TSS Ernslaw that will take you to a sheep farm on the other side of the lake. The lake is shaped like a person laying down in a fetal position and Maori legand says a giant fell there, creating the lake. Even though not connected directly (above ground anyway) to the ocean the level in the lake rises and falls with the tides (the giant is breathing).
Saturday morning we slept in, checked our email and had a Fergburger for lunch before heading out canyoning. We were kitted out with a wet suit, booties, climbing harness, life jacket and helmet. The first part of the trip was a zip line.
After the zip line was a repel down into the canyon.
Wolverine (aka Jeff) looking down to the repel below.
One of many jumps into pools below. Yoda (aka Raia) does not like water in her nose.
Before each jump the guides would tell us if we should cross our arms, land with feet straight or bent and where to swim when we landed.
The day was chilly but sunny. The water was very cold. Each plunge back in was a shock to the system. Yoda is trying to keep her hands warm by not submerging them while floating in the river.
One of the best parts of the trip was the zip line out over the water and a self-repel down from there. We also slid down the waterfall in the background at one point.
The zip line out over the pool of water.
After you dropped yourself in, it was a short paddle to a rock ledge where we climbed up for a 6m and 10m jump into the same pool.
Scrambling over the rocks. Our three guides were from Austria, Canada and France.
Swimming out of the canyon at Twelve Mile Delta.
Group shot. There was one woman from San Fransisco, a guy from Sweden, a couple from Mexico and six from our group (Steve, Claire, Brian, Alicia, and us)
After the canyoning we had a warm shower and made reservations at a nice seafood place on the water (Thanks, Mom Murdock!). The next morning we hiked to the top of Queenstown Hill (2-3hrs return, 5km, 500m ascent) where we took this picture overlooking Lake Wakatipu. It was a fairly steep climb through exotic trees with panoramic views of the area.
At this lookout there was a sculpture called the Basket of Dreams. The sign read "The Basket's spiral of steel follows you inward to reflect, to draw inspiration from the mountains, lake and from those who are with you, outward, to dream for the future. Time flies, eternity waits"
A shot from along the Queenstown Hill hike. The direction from the photographer to the subject was "not so much like John Travolta."
Queenstown Hill hike down. The day was very bright and sunny but in the forest it was dark. Queenstown Hill was once known as Te Tapu Nui - which means 'very sacred' - a place of great significance to Maori. There was a south-westerly moving through the area, pulling in cold air from Antarctica. The hike was a nice, mostly relaxing way to spend the morning.
After our hike we headed back to the hotel taking the long way through the Qeenstown gardens. We did not have lunch in town on Sunday because we were saving room for a meat pie in Arrowtown later that day. We did, however, stop for one more real-fruit ice cream cone.
After leaving Queenstown we headed over the mountains at Cardrona Saddle into Wanaka for a hike overlooking the lake. We did the Mount Iron Track to the top of Mount Iron (2km, 1-2hrs, 240m ascent). The mountain is a glacially sculpted outcrop. The hike ended at the infamous Puzzling World which we did not visit.
After Wanaka we carried on to Makarora, a small farming village next to Mt. Aspiring Natioal Park. We stayed in small, A-frame huts there and ate dinner on large rocks. There was a small bar onsite were that had karaoke that night. The next morning we were off to the west coast, where this shot was taken at a quick stop and 20 minute Kahikatea Sawmp Forest Walk up Ship Creek.
Monday afternoon we were booked on a Heli-hike on Franz Josef glacier. We were kitted out with warm socks, boots, jackets, hats and mittens before climbing on the helicopter for the ride up. There were seven people in each 'copter; two in the front plus the pilot and four in the back. We got a quick tour up to the top of the glacier first and then landed right on it.
Walking off the helicopter on the the glacier. The path was slippery. Once at the end of the path, we were fitted with crampons to help grip the ice when we walked.
We had the option to carry an ice axe too, but they were not required. Once we were out fitted we took off on a hike with our guide, who was from Argentina. Fraz Josef and its neighbor, Fox glacier, are two of the largest of the sixty-odd glaciers that creak off the South Island's mountains.
The helicoper takes off and leaves us to hike. Our trip was almost cancelled that day due to low hanging clouds. It rains a lot at the glaciers, up to five meters a year. We were very lucky that we were able to go.
Climbing in an ice cave. The conditions in the area -lots of rain, and a sharp angle of decent (3000m to near sea level in a handful of kilometers) - make for some of the fastest moving glaciers. The guide said that if you stand at the foot for an hour and a half you are bound to see a chunk fall off.
We were able to drink and eat the ice right off the glacier, and it tasted really good, very fresh, clean and cold.
Water pooling in the glacier. As we hiked we could hear streams of water rushing down through it to the ground. Sometimes it sounded a bit like a bathtub draining.
Hiking on glacier our sense of scale was really tested, things looked very close and small but when we walked towards them the massive scale of the place hit home. We thought walking on it would be like walking in snow, but the ice was very hard and silppery, like a compacted snowcone. The guide cut steps in the ice for us and we could pick up the pieces but it was nearly impossible to break off a chunk with our hands.
The mountains next to the glacier. Maori legend tell of the beautiful Hinehukatere who so loved the mountains that she encourged her lover, Tawe, to climb along side her. He fell to his death and she cried so much that her tears formed the glaciers. The Maori know the glaciers as Ka Riomata o Hinehukatere ("tears of the avalanche girl").
Just chilln' out on the glacier. Check out the crampons on his boots. They helped with the hiking tremendously, we felt very secure with them on. Like you could climb up any steep hill without slipping.
Heading back towards the heli-pad. It was cut into the glacier and made of ice. Fraz Josef got its name from geologist Julius von Haast after the Austro-Hungariam emperor in 1865.
Helicopter coming back to pick us up. There were two 'copters running to and from the village that day. The wind generated by the propeller was so strong it flung little bits of ice at us as it landed and could push us over if we were not careful.
We were very excited to ride in the helicopter again. We are all wearing sunglasses because the sunlight from the sky and reflecting off the glacier was very intense. They warned us of snow blindness prior to the trip.
The ride down was the most exhilirating. The pilot turned the helicopter on its side as we came over a ridge. It was like a crazy roller coaster ride but with out the track, so we had no idea where we were headed. The pilot curved the 'copter back and forth up and over, we loved it! Rising just above the tree tops on a high ridge and then falling fast down the other side.
Gidget and Phil on the beach in Okarito. It was their anniversary and thier first time in the Tasman Sea. Our first time too. After we left the glaciers it was a short drive to Okarito, a sleepy beach town with only 30 inhabitants. We had a yummy dinner of Moroccan chicken with lots of wine.
Tuesday morning we were kitted out again for sea kayaking on Okarito Lagoon. We paddled through the lagoon and right into the forest where we saw these flowers.
Okarito Lagoon is home to NZ's only white herron colony. We saw a handful of them as we paddled around. It was an easy paddle day as the water was calm and we were travelling with the incoming tide. In the forest, especially, the birds were a thunder of life and noise. The sandflies were abundant on the West Coast and we have more than one bite to show. Repellent would discourage them but they were an incessant presence.
Once we returned the kayaks from the morning paddle and lunch, we decided to head out for a hike. We started with the Okarito Trig Walk (1.5 hr return, 200m ascent) and saw this sign on the way to the trail head.
The Koru is the Māori name given to the new unfurling fern frond and symbolizes new life, growth, strength and peace. It is an integral symbol in Māori carving and tattoos. This one was spotted on the Trig Walk through the coastal rainforest.
The Trig walk in Okarito was a moderatly difficult climb up to an overlook that has fabulous mountain and coastal views. This one was taken on the way up. Once we got to the top we headed back down, but instead of going back to the accomodation we decided to complete the Coastal Track Walk to 3-mile lagoon and back to Okarito on the beach (only possible during low tide).
Karen, from our group, took this shot of us at the end of the Coastal Track, at three mile lagoon.
Walking back to Okarito on the beach. Jeff found lots of fun boulders to try to climb along the beach. It was a rocky, sandy beach that ended abruptly at the cliff edge. We could see why this part is only passable at low tide. Photo taken by Karen.
The name of our tour was Rimu, which is a tree that is common on the South Island. The buildings at our accomodation were named too; the names painted on rocks from the beach. The Rimu s a large evergreen coniferous tree endemic to the forests of New Zealand. It is not a true pine tree but a member of the southern conifer group the podocarps.
Sunset over the Tasman Sea. After a great lamb dinner we walked back to the beach to watch the sun set. With the windows in our room open we could hear the ocean waves.
Sunset in Okarito. The place we stayed was a sort of bed and breakfest/ backpackers hostel. The owners cooked lovely food for us and thier little three-year old son ran around freely, sometimes without pants. Like most of the places we stayed there was no TV or phone in the room. We enjoyed the company of our tour mates and guides; we watched the stars when it got dark.
After the sun set in Okarito the moon came out to play. If not full that night, it was darn close. In this shot it is reflected in a pool of sea water on the beach. It was the local swimming hole; Jeff took a dip earlier that day. It was deceptively deep in the middle (deeper than Jeff is tall) and there were tiny crabs hiding under rocks on the edges.
On Wednesday morning we were up and off to Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks. We stopped around lunch time in Hokitika to buy NZ jade and have lunch in a sailboat on the beach. This shot is of the Nicau palm tree, the only native palm in NZ and is the southern most palm. These spiny things grow at the base of a bulb from which the fronds grow. The fruit was once attached here.
The pancake rocks are columns of limestone resembling stacks of pancakes. There were also some blowholes in this area. The site is very popular with tourists and it was a hoppin' place. We also saw some surfers nearby taking advantage of the West Coast waves.
This is New Zealand flax, which is quite distinct from Nothern Hemisphere flax. We saw it all over the West coast of the south island. The tough, sword shaped leaves grow up to 3m long and 125mm wide. The ridgid flower stalks can be up to 5m long. The Maori used the plant to make baskets, nets, clothing and rope. It will grow just about anywhere and has been exported worldwide as an ornimental evergreen plant.
The start of our hike up the Pororari River into the rain forest. The track follows the river upstream into the Paparoa National Park. The lower section of the track passes a valley lined on both sides by dramatic limestone cliffs and bluffs towering over the gorge and river. We hiked through a dense sub-tropical forest of coastal broadleaf plants, nikau palms, tree ferns and towering rata. It was a warm day in the sun but the cool forest was a nice break.
Two Steves hiking in the forest. Along the way we encountered a native Weka bird, a large, brown flightless bird that has a famously feisty and curious personality. There was also a vine our guides pointed out that could be eaten if the end was ripe and soft. It tasted a bit like asparagus.
The tree ferns were thick in the depths of the forest. The fronds can reach 1.5-3m in length. The fronds form a sort of umbrella on top of the trunk. They grow very fast, up to 5 inches a year up to about 6m tall. The hike took us away from the Pororari River, through the forest and onto part of the Inland Pack track, which we followed across Punakaiki River (our first river crossing!) and back to our accomodation overlooking the ocean.
Before dinner we had a quick lesson in how to pack for the three-day hike and then we were off to a local place for fish and chips, shown here. In the evening the tourists have mostly moved on and the town was very quiet. A waka bird came to investigate while we ate on picnic tables outside.
Sunset over the pancake rocks. After dinner we strolled back to the overlook to watch the sunset. Then back to the accomodation to explore the on-site glow worm cave and the views of the ocean surf in the moonlight.
An early morning wake up in Punakaiki to get gear loaded. As we were leaving the owner, an outgoing Irishman, regaled us with endless comic relief before departing for St Arnaud. We had a salad lunch and the hiking began. This is our "before" shot.
Hiking to Lakehead Hut in Nelson Lakes National Park. The first day's hike was along the shores of Lake Rotoiti. The park is known for its honeydew beech forests. The honeydew looked like a black tar stuck on all the trees and bushes. Each drop poised on the end of a threadlike tube that protrudes from the trunk of the tree is created by scale insects, which process the tree sap into pure sugar. For many native birds, lizards and insects, the honeydew is a source of high-energy food.
Our hike followed the eastern edge of the lake and we stopped once or twice to refill water bottles in the streams and enjoy the views. The day was warm and sunny but with a cool breeze. The beech forest was alive with the sound of tui birds, bellbirds and fantails thanks to a conservation project in the area to trap and poison the stotes (like a ferret but skinnier and evil that were introduced for thier fur) that eat bird eggs in the area.
About 20 minutes before we reached the hut we came across a deck (or jetty) and decided to jump right in. It was cold but refreshing. Note the small yellow sign in the lower right hand corner. It should have served as a warning for later that night.
After a great dinner of chicken peanut satay and once the sun had set we headed back to this same jetty for a wee paddle. Once Raia was in, Jeff started by dipping in a toe which was quickly bitten by some water creature. Raia was told it was a "small trout" that Jeff and Min followed incessantly with their torches (flashlights) while Raia paddled out in the dark water. They called her back in and hastily pulled her from the water. Then she saw the 1 meter long eel swimming near the end of the dock, round and around. They figured she'd be less freaked out if it was a little trout. Steve did brave a quick dip so long as we kept an eye on the eel. As it started to get closer to him, we've never seen someone move so fast out of the water.
The afternoon light on the river valley and surrounding mountains. Nelson Lakes National Park is nestled in the nothernmost limit of the Southern Alps. It is characterized by the two glacial lakes, Rotoiti ("little lake") and Rotoroa ("long lake"). Both are surrounded by tranquil mountains and shrouded in beech forest. They jointly form the headwaters of the Buller River.
The park's sub-alpine rivers, lakes, forests and hills are full of bird life and the Maori caught eels in the lakes but no fish. Not even little trout. The Lakehead hut was favored by wasps, bees and sandfiles which made trips to the toilet an adventure. There were two or three groups sharing the hut with us; some Israelis, Brits, and Candaians. There was running water from a rainwater catch tank and a wood stove for winter nights. The hut could sleep 20-30 people on bunks with mattress in a sleeping area connected to a common/ cooking/ dining area. We enjoyed some Tim Tam slams for desert.
Early Friday morning we started out to Angelus Hut. The first challenge was this river crossing over the Travers River. After the crossing we walked alongside the river through the beech forest before we headed up the Hukere Stream.
A shot of Karen in the forest we hiked through. Beech is the second major forest type in New Zealand. This forest becomes more complex with higher rainfall, as found on the west of the Southern Alps. The forests growth appears more luxuriant, largely as a result of the profusion of lichens, mosses, liverworts and moss-like filmy-ferns clothing the forest floor, trunks and branches of the trees. These lush Beech forests are sometimes swathed in mist.
We stopped for lunch along the Hukere Stream, part of the Cascade Trail, and cooled our feet in the cold stream. Take a jumble of knobbly, moss-covered rocks and gnarled roots, add a scattering of dry beech leaves below, a sparkling of sun-lit leaves above and the rumbling sound of water flowing down a rocky stream bed. Put it all on a steep slope and you have the Cascade Trail, as it climbed up the Angelus Ridge alongside the Hukere Stream, always within earshot, and occasionally overlooking the crystal clear water rushing down the narrow glacial valley to join up with the Travers River.
Guide Steve relaxing in the grass after lunch. Our group included two guides, Steve a Yank who'd lived in NZ for 5 years and Min who was a native Kiwi. Steve was the lead guide and Min the co-guide who made sure we were well fed. They worked well as a team and contributed considerably to the good times had by all.
At this point, we had climbed almost 600m in 6km since joining the Cascade Track, leaving less than a kilometre to climb the last 400m up to Angelus Hut.
Zigzagging up a rocky path, we rock-hopped over the base of one of several waterfalls plunging down the face of the bluff and scrambled up a scree slope.
This last section of the hike was the toughest. We could not see over the next ridge and were not sure how much farther we had to go. It took about an hour or two and one good rest stop for us to reach the hut. The view as we went up kept getting better. The air also got cooler and the breeze stiffer as we climbed.
Looking back down from whence we came. The Angelus Hut was a welcome site. The hut sleeps 30 or so people and our group shared it with two British teachers, another group of young Israelis and a Canadian. It had a rainwater catch tank but no indoor running water. No bees or wasps or sandfiles were found.
Just to say we did, we took a wee paddle in Lake Angelus, since the other swim was so nice. This lake was marketly colder than the other and with no jetty the rocks were slippery. No eels, either. It was a very brief swim fallowed by a change into warm, dry clothes and a nap in our sleeping bags. The guides also took a dip later that afternoon.
Angelus hut and Lake Angelus. Clouds moved in and out that evening obscuring some of the views but the lake was lovely. The lake is actually an alpine tarn, left by the glaciers.
Jeff reading on his bunk in the hut. There was a nice sunlight over the top bunk that made reading easy before the sun went down. After dark there were candles in the hut or our trusty torches (flashlights).
Raia took a quick nap to warm up and rest after the long hike. Dinner that night was a great surprise. Min cooked pasta with fresh veggies and red sauce, brownies with white chocolate sauce and red wine to boot! The guides had carried two bags of wine in thier packs to share with the group. It was a great end to a great day.
Very early again on Saturday we started the hike down. Due to the overcast, cold windy conditions we headed down Speargrass Track instead of Roberts Ridge. The Speargrass track followed the ridge for a short while and then dropped steeply down on the other side of Roberts Ridge.
The first part of the hike was a mix of soft, spongy alpine grass and scree sliding slopes to the edge of a creek. It was misty and damp. A chill in the air, but the group stayed in high spirits.
Some wildflowers spotted along the trail. We stopped to take breaks every so often. An hour or so into the hike, we started making many more river crossings, as the trail zig-zagged over the same creek again and again. Each crossing was a little deeper, most about knee high.
Once we were below the tree line some of the river crossings were replaced with mud corssings. These are Pat's legs after one such crossing.
It rained a bit as we tramped through the forest, which was dim and green and dripping with life. The side of the ridge recieved heaps more rain per year than the side we had been on the previous day and it showed. Life was growing out of every nook and cranny; roots crowded the trail and water rushed down in tiny streams after each turn.
The last section of the hike was "undulating" and each ridge we hoped was the last as it had been 5-6 hours of hiking so far with a short break for pita sandwhiches. At one point, one of our group members came tramping down the trail in the opposite direction, what a sight for sore eyes, he stopped for a quick hug to encourage us to press on and away we went.
We met our guides at the van (they are just that fast) and they even had warm beverages waiting. This shot is overlooking Lake Rotoiti, where we started two days prior. This is our "after" shot. We were muddy, tired, wet, sore, and happy.
Another nice treat was cold beer in the bus as we headed out of St. Arnaud. This beer featured a trivia question under each bottle cap. This one had something to with a cricket player. This ride also marked Raia's first and only ride shotgun of the van. The windy, narrow roads with drivers on the left made for a wild ride. The view was better up front too.
We dined outside on a deck at the B&B in Kaikoura Saturday night. These boots were spotted on the deck before dinner. Our hosts prepared a great seafood BBQ with seafood chowder to start. All the ingrediants were fresh and local.
Sunset in Kaikoura. It was our last dinner together as a group so we shared wine and toasts to our guides. The night was warm with friendship.
This the group we traveled with for our two wonderful weeks in New Zealand. Front Row (LtoR): Karen, Gidget, Alicia, Christine. Middle Row: Steve (music), Becky, Raia, Claire, Min, Missy. Back Row: Pat, Don, Jeff, Phil, Brian, Steve (active), Ian, Steve (guide).
Kaikoura Peninsula. Sunday morning after breakfast we watched the owner of the B&B feed some massive eels and trout that live in the creek behind the house. We also had fun talking with the resident cockatail, Admiral Creighton. He could say things like "hello darling" and "been a good boy."
A very windy day. The group watched the seals relax and walked up to this lookout. The Kaikoura Peninsula extends into the sea south of the town, and the resulting upwelling currents bring an abundance of marine life from the depths of the nearby Hikurangi Trench. The name 'Kaikoura' means 'To eat crayfish' ('kai'- to eat, 'koura' - crayfish).
The wind contributed to the cancellation of our planned snorkeling trip. There had also been storms in the area the day before and the sea was cloudy as a result. The wind made for a fun walk.
View from the the Kaikoura Peninsula where the seal colony lives. In Maori legend, it was from this peninsula that legendary hero Māui is reputed to have dredged up the giant fish that became the North Island. The South Island is Maui's waka (canoe).
The New Zealand Fur Seal is only found on the coasts of New Zealand and it’s sub-Antarctic islands with a few colonies on the south coast of Australia. Unlike true seals they have visible ears and do not have a blubber layer so they have fur for warmth. The fur is in two layers. The outer layer of stiffer hairs is silvery brown when dry with the inner layer of soft water proof fur being reddish brown. This one was hanging around near the car park.
Pegasus Bay Winery. Leaving Kaikoura on the way to Christchurch we stopped here for a quick wine tasting and stroll around the winery. This is the Waipara Valley, one of NZ's fastest growing wine regions. The region produces notable Pinot Noirs, Rieslings, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs but as a wine destination it is very much in its infancy.
Flowers at Pegasus Bay. There was a lovely garden on the grounds and it was a beautiful day to enjoy them.
Pegasus Bay flowers. The winery featured a restaurant where each course is matched with an appropriate wine. Our lunch was provided by a different local place; savory scones, vege quiche and a scrumptous peach tart/ muffin.
Aukland. Monday was a bonus day after our flight to LAX was rescheduled for later that day due to weather radar problems. We strolled around town and took a harbor cruise around the windy bay.
The cruise visited the America's Cup team base at Viaduct Harbour and coasted past Devonport and the Harbour bridge. It was a popular option for the sunny day.
AJ Hacket's Aukland Bridge Bungy is apparently the only one of its kind, a 40m leap out over the water below the bridge. This guy jumped just as we passed.
This ship was being slowly dismantled. In the background, Aukland's 328m Skytower dominates the skyline and is New Zealand's tallest building. One can jump off the tower with a cable attached to one's back in a kind of arrested free fall at 75kph. There is also an option to climb up a vertical internal ladder to the top of the tower where an open-air crow's nest gives a great view of the area.
