My goal was to create a lightweight, short autumn coat that looked something like this.
Here's what I made. But let's start at the beginning.
I used this Burda pattern, which I bought cheap on eBay. Worst. Instructions. Ever. They might as well have been in German.
This is my first Twenty-first Century pattern. All my others have been vintage Seventies and Eighties patterns.
I used a stretchy gabardine-like fabric I picked up for $2 in the Garment District. It has a pretty sheen on the right side, duller on the wrong side. It's quite heavy but you can't beat the price. I think it's a brushed cotton/poly with some lycra. I'm not even sure.
I unfolded my pattern on Sunday. Big, very big.
After cutting, I made some adjustments to the front piece, making it 3 inches shorter. I did this to the back as well.
Pile of pattern pieces.
On Monday, after ironing the fabric and the pattern pieces, I was ready to start cutting. Instead of pins I use makeshift weights: candlesticks, paper weights, metal boxes, whatever works.
My first attempt at a welt pocket was a mess. I'd cut the slit in the front before starting: big mistake. I ended up cutting a completely new right and left front and starting over.
My second attempt was much better, no thanks to the Burda instructions. I found a helpful instructional video on YouTube.
Pulling my fabric through to the back (i.e., wrong side).
On the front (right) side, you can see the piping. The white between the piping is the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric.
The two front pieces with pockets attached.
My second pocket, well, third if you count the one I ruined. I'm getting better at these.
Another look at the welt pocket.
The fronts and back now pinned.
Inside the sleeve, the seam joining the sleeve's two parts.
So far, it looks like Bea Arthur's housecoat.
Sure enough.
Or a shower curtain.
Done for the day.
Tuesday and Maude gets backs back to work.
Needs a collar, among other things.
The back seam looks nice.
Tuesday night: collar on. Difficult to do, especially with such poor instructions. I fudged a lot.
Done for the day. Still need to attach sleeves, close sides (and sleeves), topstitch, hem, and add buttons.
Wednesday: I cut this off the top of the sleeve cap to avoid needing shoulder pads. I guessed the amount to trim, measuring the length of the open armhole against the width of the open sleeve. It worked.
Sleeves on and shortened. Seams topstitched. Length hemmed. Just needs buttons and a good pressing. Oh, and a half lining.
No lining yet, but wearable. BTW, I made this on my 50's-era Pfaff 139: http://picasaweb.google.com/PeterLappinNYC/Pfaff139#
I used simple black plastic buttons.
Ta da! But wait -- there's more!
I brought my as-yet-unlined coat with me to the American Sewing Expo. Here I am squinting in the scenic parking lot of the Hotel Baronette in Novi, Michigan.
At the Expo, I was accosted by a young woman who insisted on having her picture taken with my coat. Eager to avoid a scene, I agreed.
With BrianSews, whom I blame for my owning five sewing machines and a serger.
I don't know what it is about this coat, but the women love me in it.
Back home and ready to tackle my first lining. I decided to opt for a full-length lining rather than the half lining the pattern calls for. I picked up some nice quality acetate locally (for which I paid twice what my coat fabric cost). It's a sort of shimmery bronze.
I overcast some of the seams with an overcast foot I got in a set of snap-on feet but never used before. It works.
I actually tried from French seams on the sides. Great with a fabric that frays so easily.
The lining's in and I notice it's a little full in the right armpit, though it doesn't compromise the fit.
The left armpit looks better. I basically just sewed all the lining pieces together and stitched them to the facings. The instructions were useless.
I decided to let the bottom hang loose rather than rip out the bottom hem and stitch the lining under it. It works well enough and frankly, it's easier. I just overcast the edge, folded it up about an inch, folded it up another inch, and then stitched 1/4 inch from the top. I'm sure there's a more elegant way to do this -- maybe next time.
The lining really glows. I like it.
Here you can see how I sewed the lining under the facing but left it free to hang above the bottom hem. This is me improvising.
Fully lined and ready to roll.
I recommend long pants with this if you're leaving your house.
Profile. The shoulder looks an itty bit wide with just a T-shirt, but the coat can accommodate a blazer or thick sweater.
The loose, hemmed acetate hangs nicely.
Done! Onwards and upwards.
