Red oak, plywood pieces cut out. Ready to start with some solid wood.
Pieces for the case feet. A little burning on the mitres. This was a feedrate issue with one cut. Using GRRippers, they started slipping a bit so my feed rate slowed and thus the burning.
My father wanted a table for the television in the basement. I remembered this piece from October 2005 and thought it would be a better fit.
This is what the piece is based on. I usually deviate from plans if I don't like a feature, make an significant mistake, or just can't follow basic instructions. This plan calls for alot of solid wood banding that is then hidden by fals fronts. I resized some panels and will just use glue on banding for the pieces that will not see the light of day. This plan also calls for 4 sided finishing, but instead of a pop-off back, the shelves will slide in and out so it will be a three sided piece. Work continues.
I was asking a question about clamping for joining with M/T joints using the FMT. I didn't have the pieces with me, so I just mocked them up on sketchup. At the time of this comment, I still havn't chosen the joinery method. The plan calls for biscuits, but I hate biscuits. I have two biscuit joiners, but I just hate them. Mind you, I sprung for some more expensive biscuits and have had better luck, but what alot of effort to go through to create a weak joint. Yeah, I know, lots of opinions there. Regardless, I'm considering M/T, but an awful lot of trouble for a hidden joint that has little or no structural relevance to the piece.
These are the sliding drawer boxes for videos and DVD's. The plywood runners have an offset for full extension drawer slides so the drawers fit in the case with 1/16th side clearance. These will have a false front put on them, probably tonight.
This is one of the side case glue-ups. The panels fit into the rabets and the entire thing was square as soon as clamped. Nice and easy.
This was the problem child. The panels fit in the rabets and the case was off square by 1/8 of an inch diagonal with an overlap on one of the panels. I dry fit the first case, but didn't dry fit this one. It has a miriad of clamps on it because it's square NOW!
Glue-up of the false fronts for the drawers. I got a chance to test the bandsaw resawing some of these pieces. It worked well, but my planer didn't care for the small pieces and tore out some of the fibers. Not snipe, just chunked a bit. It might be time to rotate the blades.
The K-body clamp was one of the best additions to my shop as the clamping versatility is phenomenal.
Clamping on the edge moulding. I was a little unhappy with the color as, though it's red oak like the ply, it's quite dark. It looks good though. One of the edgings was 1/32 proud of the face so I'll have to sleep on how I'm going to deal with that. As you can see, though I hate biscuits, I used some on this edging with the hopes that things would line up. Having one piece 1/32 proud keeps my string of biscuit induced headaches alive.
The edging isn't proud anymore. Some very fine cuts and being careful and a slight error is eliminated. I'm starting to like this hand tool stuff!
This is a dry fit of the base. The apron was joined to the feet using Dowels and my new Dowelmax jig. Nothing is glued or attached right now, it's just a check to make sure things fit.
The apron dry fit to the feet.
Dowelmax was used to fit the feet to the apron. What an amazing little jig. Perfectly accurate and simple to use.
Drilling mating dowel holes in the apron pieces. Again, Dowelmax makes you want to find things to use it on. It's very easy and very precise. A real asset to the shop.
I bought this drill to use for sanding bowls on the lathe. It was 10 bucks in the bargain bin at Peavy Mart. I'm glad I bought it as I have a real aversion to driving screws by hand.
I'm gluing the face frame on the box. It's about 1/16th proud. I'm going to take that off with a flush trim bit on the router table.
This is how the box looks from the front with drawer face on and facing on. the grooves cut in the rails are 1/8" deep and represent a false three drawer front.
The two ends clamped with dowels glued. This was my first time gluing dowels and it provided some anxiety. It worked out fine in the end. I lost my place at one point and had a horrible thought that I just made two left sides. There is a real advantage to marking things and planning the glueup better than I did here. It worked out okay, but I got a tad lucky.
I used 2 x 24 and 2 x 50 inch K-bodies to glue up the apron. I was able to glue the dowels a little more efficiently this time. I found that if I take a little glue cup and a brush, I can work fast and steady. I'll get the bottom on tonight and get the final assembly done this weekend. Then it's finishing. This has been a fun project.
I stained the boxes, top, bottom and apron today. I'll stain the drawers after I trim the fronts. The way the hinges sit, the drawer fronts are about 1/64 too long and will drag the base on opening with any expansion. I'll do that tomorrow as I didn't want to fire up the saw and make dust around the finish. The finish is Varathane Early American gel stain. I did a cursory staining inside the case as the sliding drawer completely hides it anyway.
The botom with the top sitting on some scrap. The apron and legs will get joined to the bottom next week. I'm not sure if I'll poly them first, but I'm sticking with my intent of doing a final assembly AFTER finishing when it's on site. the base doesn't need stain on the whole thing as it's covered by the drawer carcases, so right now you can see the unstained base peaking out from the top.
First coat of poly on the false fronts.
Cases and top poly'd with one coat brush on, rubbed out with #000 steel wool, then 2 wipe on coats. The top will get a few more wipe on coats, but the boxes are done.
The top is smooth as my 2 year olds bum. Good luck rather than good management as I did a pretty pathetic cleanup of the shop before I started with the Poly. Still nothing final assembled.
Dry fit after finishing. I'll wait to take it to it's new home before I fasten it together. I have to cut the back to fit and stain the shelves and install the shel supports. Then it's done. Coupe of hours. ;)
Shelf edging glueup
Door frame glueup. I'll have to rabbet out the backs for the glass.
The size of the doors fell in a bit of an awkward point between the benchdog holes. Veritas panel clamps (stackable wonderpups) made this a breeze.
A quick cleanup with a piece of crap fuller chisel. When I got the Veritas MK.II sharpening system, I wanted to learn how to use it with something other than my good irons and chisels. I had a couple of 4 dollar Fuller chisels collecting dust. This sharpening system put an incredible edge on these really cheap tools. Sometimes you can put a bowtie on a pig.
Final assembly (sans doors) in the kids playroom.
This is the first time I used the woodpeck drill press table with it's fence. After setting the fence and stops I was able to drill the doors quickly and repeatably in only about twice the time it would have taken to just measure and mark each door. This system will be handy if I have to do a run of more than two doors. With just the two, I was just inventing a reason to use it. This was one of those additions to my shop that I just HAD to have, that took me a year and a half to finally use.
Installed. I'm still waiting for glass for the doors, but otherwise, it's done. The doors are fit and stained/poly'd. Just not here until the glass gets cut. Thanks for looking!